CRUA newbie questions

[Lug_Nut]

Oh, so you thought I was gone for good, eh? Nope. I got pulled back in to this diesel VW madness.
I have a couple of questions about my new-to-me 2015 GSW (S trim) 6M:

DEF
1) Is there a DEF gauge (VCDS? Visual? MFA?) to estimate fluid level prior to the low level alert message pop-up? Or is DEF level like washer fluid level: 'Enough', or 'Needs more'?
2) Can API certification on some DEF be used as confirming that DEF also had to meet the ISO standard first? Can a DEF that has API certification possibly NOT meet the ISO requirement?

Towing
1) Was a GSW trailer tow specification FOR THE US ever issued? Please, US towing specifications only. My Golf Sportwagon owner's manual has no published trailer weight or tongue weight limitations other than listing the TDI with DSG as "This vehicle cannot be used to tow a trailer", while the TDI M6, and both the DSG and M6 with the 1.8 are listed as "information not available at time of printing" which was 12.2014 for my edition.

Dieselgate Phase 2
1) I have 'partial' (phase 1 complete) stickers under the hood. Online VIN check confirms phase 2 has not been performed. For those that have had phase 2 performed long after phase 1, what advice can you offer?

 

[RIP TDI]

DEF
1) In VCDS: Group 01/Adv. Measuring Values/ IDE05232 (Reducing Agent Fill Level), IDE10246 (Reducing Agent Tank Volume Actual Filtered), IDE10247 (Reducing Agent Tank Volume Actual Calculated).

2) I have been using PEAK BlueDEF Platinum which meets ISO-22241-1 standards (as well as API, of course). Can't speak for any other product.

I haven't anything to say about towing or Phase 2 advice other than the step from Phase 1 to Phase 2 was uneventful. Others will chime in with more helpful info, I'm sure.

Regens
1) I can't remember if this is the first DPF-equipped TDI in your fleet, but if so, you may want to know before a regen will occur so that, if you don't want to interrupt it once it begins, you can plan your drive/route to allow for the extra drive distance/time needed for the regen to complete before you shut down. There are dedicated apps besides VCDS that can read this. I've never used them but I do use a little system that works well for me. I've never read of anyone else using it, so I'm assuming its a crackpot idea that would be universally shunned .

 

[Lug_Nut]

I can't remember if this is the first DPF-equipped TDI in your fleet, ......

Only ever had idi, VE and PD until this, therefore the "newbie" status in my chosen title.

 

[Nuje]

With DEF, you start getting a countdown warning at like 2000km IIRC - just pops up when you shut down the car that "DEF range is 2000km (1200 miles I guess in your case)" or words to that effect.

By the time you get to maybe 200km or something, it's warning you that it won't start again if you don't add DEF in the next (however many) km/miles.

I just buy the 9.5L (2gal?) jug at Costco - seems to keep the system happy.

Oh - and from what I've read: You don't want to only dumping a partial fill and keep the rest for later. Evaporation of any DEF around the spout will leave little crystals, which, once they get into the system, can potentially clog up the injector.

 

[Lug_Nut]

Rip: VCDS indicates my DEF tank is at a bit over 65%, so I have time.
Nuje: Presently no message at shut-down, but knowing that there will be ample notification prior to any 'no-start' condition is a reassurance. The condition of urea crystal formation implies that I should not fill the car to full, but instead should fill until the dispensing jug is empty.

 

[oilhammer]

Don't overthink the DEF. Just fill it at every service, and if it has been a few thousand miles since one, and you are getting ready to go on a trip, fill it then too. Thankfully, the Golf 7 fill port is on the outside of the body, so if you spill any it is no big deal, just rinse it away with water.

DEF does have an expiration, and you don't want to store it in extreme cold or heat. Most come in either 1 gal jugs or 2.5 gal jugs. I forget what the tank size is on that car. But you'll have to work out how your driving goes through it, not everyone will be the same.

Chances are the system will have some problem pop up anyway, they often do, although that car is not nearly as bad as the NMS cars, but that's not saying much.

The extra "phase" of the Dieselgate deal is to install a new "emission control module" on the back of the engine, even when it is not needed. Up to you if you trust the dealer to have a tech work for half pay to tear apart the backside of your engine to replace something that isn't broken. I can tell you that a lot of these get butchered up pretty bad after this. Exhaust leaks, wire harness problems, rattles, etc. Again, you're call. Depending on how fast you get out of the warranty, or if you are already, will depend on how well you get to know the local dealers' service department. You may know all the service writers on a first name basis by then, who knows.

Couple CRUA tips:

They can, and often do, consume some oil. Not horribly, but it is common. Good news is, they hold an extra liter of oil vs. the previous engines, and they have an oil level indicator. They also thankfully still have an old fashioned dipstick. So just be aware of that.

The CKP (crank) sensors commonly go bad. Manifested as a little hiccup, cutting out, etc. Usually random and very quickly, and rarely set a DTC.

The oil pressure fed intake cam phaser can go bad, and cause hard starts and rattles at start up.

Cannot say for sure on towing, because Volkswagen typically does the lawyer-friendly line of "car is not able to tow" BS. People have successfully used ECOhitches on these without issue, but I think the hitch itself has a pretty low capacity, like 1500 pounds.

 

[Lug_Nut]

DEF: Tank capacity is listed as about 4 gallons. A gallon at a time will likely do for me based on what I'm learning about typical use rates.

Phase 2: Considering Phase2 only because a new DPF is listed as an item to be changed, there's a 162k mile limitation in the extended warranty and the car's at 141k miles on the original DPF. Closest dealer has useless service. Former closest dealer is out of business due to useless service. They're VW dealer, of course their service is useless. There's a reason I went to St.Louis for the B5.5 B.S.M chain to gear swap.
A southern N.H. dealer has reportedly adequate phase2 service and would be worth the drive.

CRUA tips: Those heads-up tips are appreciated.

Trailer: The car has the Draw-Tite 1 1/4 inch (2,000 lb., 200 lb.) unit sold through eTrailer. My present car carrier and the Sonett total 2,000 lb. but I would prefer a bit more tongue percentage. There's an EcoHitch 2 inch receiver (2,000, 300) that would allow re-positioning the car on the trailer for more tongue weight, and would also fit my 2 inch rack without needing a 1 1/4 to 2 adapter. A greater percent of tongue load is a moot issue if VW's limits are not conducive.

Go figure... Third owner, 10 year old car, private sale with no warranty, and I'm reluctant to tow with this one? NONE of my prior 15 or so TDI permitted towing at all and that didn't stop me. Now I have one that actually permits towing and I'm worrying about 100 lbs. of rear load increase? Sheesh! I must be getting soft.

 

[RIP TDI]

DEF: Tank capacity is listed as about 4 gallons. A gallon at a time will likely do for me based on what I'm learning about typical use rates.

Note that there can be an issue with the DEF tank level sender where it falsely signals a low level, regardless of actual level, that triggers an upcoming no-start warning. The dealer fix on these is to replace the whole tank/sender assembly which is covered under the emissions warranty but there had been a national back order on these for over a year, which I believe has now been resolved.

I wonder whether my strategy of a 2.5 gal. fill up to 75% or so from a 1st 1500 mi. warning point of about 33% is any better or worse a strategy to preserve sender functionality than smaller, more frequent fills at a higher or lower level. I haven't seen any documentation of failure mode of this sensor, so who knows. FWIW, my annual vehicle mileage is 10K mi. and DEF 2.5 gal. fill frequency is about the same.

 

[Lug_Nut]

The extra "phase" of the Dieselgate deal is to install a new "emission control module" on the back of the engine, even when it is not needed. Up to you if you trust the dealer to have a tech work for half pay to tear apart the backside of your engine to replace something that isn't broken. I can tell you that a lot of these get butchered up pretty bad after this. Exhaust leaks, wire harness problems, rattles, etc. Again, your call. Depending on how fast you get out of the warranty, or if you are already, will depend on how well you get to know the local dealers' service department. You may know all the service writers on a first name basis by then, who knows.

It turns out, or rather I've been convinced by the local VW dealer, that the phase2 applicable to my car has been completed in 2018. They persuaded me that the reason my sticker under the hood AND the VW.com VIN look-up both indicate a "partial" update is due to the low mileage when the work was done meaning the complete kit of components wasn't warranted, that a 'partial' kit was sufficient. This means the car has the "phase 2a" (no DPF replacement) update and didn't need the "phase 2b" (with DPF replacement) update. VW is still on-the-hook for a DPF replacement, should it be needed, until 11 years from the car going in service (back in 2017 due to 'stop-sale' not allowing the car to be sold without at least phase1) or to 162k miles. I have until April 2028, or another 21k miles, before the DPF replacement is my responsibility. I wasn't allowed to get printouts nor even screenshots, but I was permitted to see the data on their terminal screens as they pulled up the info.
Got all my paperwork title application, registration, plates, safety and emissions inspection done today. I'm impressed with the car. It's new to me and I'm still getting accustomed to the light clutch, but,....WOW! not just the best TDI. or best VW, but best VWAG I've ever driven.

 

[RIP TDI]

It's new to me and I'm still getting accustomed to the light clutch, but,....WOW! not just the best TDI. or best VW, but best VWAG I've ever driven.

This is like watching your kid open the awesome Christmas present he didn't know he was getting!

 

[Nuje]

Rip: VCDS indicates my DEF tank is at a bit over 65%, so I have time.
Nuje: Presently no message at shut-down, but knowing that there will be ample notification prior to any 'no-start' condition is a reassurance. The condition of urea crystal formation implies that I should not fill the car to full, but instead should fill until the dispensing jug is empty.

Yep - that's what I do. I just dump in the 2gal jug when I get the warning and call it good - lasts probably 15-20K km for me (I really should track that and get an accurate number).

 

[Nuje]

Trailer: The car has the Draw-Tite 1 1/4 inch (2,000 lb., 200 lb.) unit sold through eTrailer. My present car carrier and the Sonett total 2,000 lb. but I would prefer a bit more tongue percentage. There's an EcoHitch 2 inch receiver (2,000, 300) that would allow re-positioning the car on the trailer for more tongue weight, and would also fit my 2 inch rack without needing a 1 1/4 to 2 adapter. A greater percent of tongue load is a moot issue if VW's limits are not conducive.

From the WDYDT Mk7 thread:

I have some airbags in the rear springs, too, as the Kuat Pivot is around 60lbs, in addition to the Sherpa v2's 40lbs. Put them at ~12psi and no sag in the rear end.

 

[Lug_Nut]

I've been following, and will be ordering the T-one for the Golf making the wiring mod to suit the GSW, and also getting the air bags.
Did you run the bag air line with a 90 out of the bag?
my other ride: 1988 DeRosa SLX Professional, mix of Nuovo Record and Mirage

 

[Nuje]

Did you run the bag air line with a 90 out of the bag?

Not sure what exactly you mean. So I'll answer a different question that you didn't ask.

I have the air lines coming out and joining at a Y around the fuel tank, then going to one schrader valve near the hitch receiver cut-out.
If I was doing it again (and someone made this point in another thread), I'd keep a separate line out of each air bag going to its own schrader valve. That way, when cornering, the bag that is being loaded/compressed isn't pushing air to the opposite side of the car, effectively "lifting" that side (which is less than optimal).

 

[Lug_Nut]

Did you run the bag air line with a 90 out of the bag?

Not sure what exactly you mean.

Does the air tube to the bag in your install point straight down to the ground?
How much ground clearance is there to the lowest point of this air tube?
Does the tube have a minimum bend radius specification before it kinks/collapses?
Would you suggest a short segment of straight tube to a rigid 90 degree elbow and then to the longer tube to a fill valve for the purpose of eliminating kink, and gaining improved ground clearance?

 

[Nuje]

Ahhh - got ya.
Yeah - I just run it straight out the bottom of the bag toward the ground, then curve it towards the middle. At most, I'd guess it's maybe 2" below the spring perch (?). I can notice it looking at the car from eyes at ground level for sure, but I've never worried about it snagging on something.
The lines are fairly flexible, so they can handle a pretty sharp turn without any hint of kinking - like, I'm sure you could wrap it around 1.5" ABS drain pipe without issue.

 

[Lug_Nut]

Thanks, and I know about the side-to-side air transfer issue from my Gabriel Hi-Jacker air shock days. My preference is a single shut-off on one side of, and easily accessible from, the central fill "T" and Schrader.
Open the valve, fill, and both sides have equal pressure.
Close the valve to one spring and that (and the Schraeder) also stops the other.
Open the valve when it's time to reduce both equally from the one Schraeder, then close the valve again.

 

[Nuje]

Got a photo or link to what this valve would look like? Sounds like it'd be pretty easy to add into my current setup.

BTW, here's a view of what my airlines look like with the phone ~8" off the ground.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Ok, guessing your car has around 141k. Phase 1 was installed when it was sold new after stop sale was lifted , or if you already had one before stop sale. Phase 2a was supposed to be done by end of 2018. If the car had less than 40k miles with DSG or 70k with 6 speed, it only got a software update. Once car gets 2a, you can get the 2B done,( I think after 70k for DSG and 100k for 6spd) which is new DPF and other hardware , and you get additional 5yrs/60k mile warranty. It also requires dealer to do complimentary service, full tank of fuel, and a loaner vehicle while phase 2B is being done. I'm holding out as long as possible to do it. My dealer(Basil VW in Lockport, NY) has been great for services and warranty work, no hassles. They even keep reminding me just to let them know when I want the 2B done. They did entire fuel system replacement at end of last year under warranty. As far as towing- I went with the Ecohitch 2" receiver-it is a well made hitch, and I forgot which Tekonsha wiring harness- it is a pulse one, where you don't have to splice wires, it just clips over your existing wires, and I power it from the 12v plug in trunk area. I have a 5.5'x10' aluminum trailer I tow with occasionally- I've towed my Kubota BX2380 with it and it tows it no problem. Do you know if the clutch slave cylinder has ever been replaced? Those are common failures, and are inside transmission, so requires transmission removal....

 

[r90sKirk]

Ok, guessing your car has around 141k. Phase 1 was installed when it was sold new after stop sale was lifted , or if you already had one before stop sale. Phase 2a was supposed to be done by end of 2018. If the car had less than 40k miles with DSG or 70k with 6 speed, it only got a software update. Once car gets 2a, you can get the 2B done,( I think after 70k for DSG and 100k for 6spd) which is new DPF and other hardware , and you get additional 5yrs/60k mile warranty. It also requires dealer to do complimentary service, full tank of fuel, and a loaner vehicle while phase 2B is being done. I'm holding out as long as possible to do it. My dealer(Basil VW in Lockport, NY) has been great for services and warranty work, no hassles. They even keep reminding me just to let them know when I want the 2B done. They did entire fuel system replacement at end of last year under warranty. As far as towing- I went with the Ecohitch 2" receiver-it is a well made hitch, and I forgot which Tekonsha wiring harness- it is a pulse one, where you don't have to splice wires, it just clips over your existing wires, and I power it from the 12v plug in trunk area. I have a 5.5'x10' aluminum trailer I tow with occasionally- I've towed my Kubota BX2380 with it and it tows it no problem. Do you know if the clutch slave cylinder has ever been replaced? Those are common failures, and are inside transmission, so requires transmission removal....

THIS IS THE KEY PHRASE HERE - SPREAD THE WORD - PLEASE, most TDI enthusiasts are unaware of this feature!

 

[Nuje]

I forgot which Tekonsha wiring harness

Pretty sure it's the Tekonsha 119251; search for ZCI ("zero cuts interface" or something like that).

 

[Lug_Nut]

Double check your car. You might not need it.
Fast forward to posts 68, 69, 70 in the link below.

2015 Golf TDI trailer wiring harness installation

Went to pickup a trailer today and noticed the turn signals don't work. Just remembered the turn signals on my wagen are modified to have the amber bottom signals. Wonder what I have to change on the wiring now

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