Crazy Price for Routine Maintenance

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I was curious if a nearby shop billing itself as a European car specialist could do my car’s routine maintenance: fuel, air, oil filters and oil. Gave me an estimate of $433, which I thought was insanely high, especially given that my regular shop is in the $200s. Their labor rate is $178/hr, also insanely high.

Looks like I’m sticking with my longtime mechanic.

 

[740GLE]

location location location

the market will support what the market will support.

someone's paying those prices.

 

[lemoncurd]

got a name for this "european car specialist"?

im curious if theyre mostly for porsche's and the like.. would explain the higher cost. they couldve also simply given you the "go away" price.

i have noticed a number of repair shops outright refuse to wrench on a newer TDI. there is alot of misinformation out there about our cars in the US.
just yesterday, the cashier at the gas station struck up a convo about my VW. saying that he was surprised mine is a diesel because "they all got destroyed"
funny enough he had a vehicle VW bought back during that madness.

i explained it was just a recall and the vehicles sat until VWoA could fix them. but it largely fell on deaf ears. people have these images of our vehicles in their heads which are likely never going to be changed.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

North Shore Motorwerks, Middleton, MA.

But then, KMH also quoted abut $400. I must be really living in the past.

got a name for this "european car specialist"?

im curious if theyre mostly for porsche's and the like.. would explain the higher cost. they couldve also simply given you the "go away" price.

i have noticed a number of repair shops outright refuse to wrench on a newer TDI. there is alot of misinformation out there about our cars in the US.
just yesterday, the cashier at the gas station struck up a convo about my VW. saying that he was surprised mine is a diesel because "they all got destroyed"
funny enough he had a vehicle VW bought back during that madness.

i explained it was just a recall and the vehicles sat until VWoA could fix them. but it largely fell on deaf ears. people have these images of our vehicles in their heads which are likely never going to be changed.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

Using Genuine Parts:

• $27 Air Filter
• $48 Fuel Filter
• $82 for Oil, Filter, and Drain Plug

That's $157 before tax in parts alone; $120 if you buy OEM instead. The labor is where they're getting you, but that's probably not unreasonable for Mass these days either.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

KMH labor is $120/hr. So still ?
I can do the air and cabin filters myself, I believe.

Using Genuine Parts:

• $27 Air Filter
• $48 Fuel Filter
• $82 for Oil, Filter, and Drain Plug

That's $157 before tax in parts alone; $120 if you buy OEM instead. The labor is where they're getting you, but that's probably not unreasonable for Mass these days either.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Are air filters from AutoZone, etc. decent? Or do I just stick with Mahle, etc.?

 

[Cuzoe]

Typical labor is around $200/hr in my neck of the (former) woods.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I’m spoiled.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

I would stay OEM/German. You can definitely do the filters (just be careful with the air filter since it requires a Torx bit; still not difficult though). I was just thinking 1 hour of labor is definitely enough to do everything, including a tire rotation, for any competent shop. You can also easily do the fuel filter as it's three bolts topside.

Here you go my dude, order from @IndigoBlueWagon here: https://www.idparts.com/20k-service-kit-crua-03n115562-p-5123.html

Alternatively, I'm a huge fan of FCP Euro and they're close enough to us that even their free shipping truly will arrive next-day:

• VW Oil Change Kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-audi-diesel-oil-change-kit-5w-30-genuine-audi-vw-03n115562kt
• Engine Air Filter: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-engine-air-filter-hengst-5q0129620c
• Cheap Cabin Air Filter: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-cabin-air-filter-corteco-5q0819669
• Fancy Cabin Air Filter: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-cabin-air-filter-corteco-5q0819644a
• Fuel Filter: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-fuel-water-separator-filter-ufi-5q0127177

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Ok! Thanks! Please tell me exactly how to change the fuel filter. I have visions of being drenched in diesel fuel if I unscrew anything.

 

[kjclow]

I used to use a local shop until I had a couple of issues. Frist was a mil that popped up and he said they don't service diesels. Second was when I booked an oil change for the truck on-line and when I went to drop it off, they didn't have it on their books. Decided I stick with the dealers as their prices aren't that much more and they should know what they're doing. There's another local shop that advertises working on European cars. I drove by there and not a single European car sitting in their lot.

 

[ZippyNH]

Yeah ...let the pro do the fuel filter. as you worried relieve the psi..just a well placed rag typically...then dispose of the dirty fuel and filter...You gotta and should prefill it and then prime it... typically done with software or other tools.
Air filter and cabin filters are both easy.
Just pay attention to the version of the air filter....there are typically 2, one a cold weather version with an added layer (should be what you have in Massachusetts) and a slightly cheaper one without.
Similarly the cabin filter typically has 3 options... electrostatic, carbon, sometimes a anti odor middle ground version. Difference comes down to volume of airflow due to restriction.
Typically most OEM ones are white or if they are black, it means they have carbon...just kinda depends on what your previous shop was installing.
But honestly an oil change and a fuel filter change, you are looking at $200+...but about $100 saved overall doing the air filter and cabin filters is a huge help

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

A YouTube clip on the fuel filter looks pretty easy. Didn’t mention priming it. Unless that means pouring fuel into the new filter.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

Yeah ...let the pro do the fuel filter. as you worried relieve the psi..just a well placed rag typically...then dispose of the dirty fuel and filter...You gotta and should prefill it and then prime it... typically done with software or other tools.
Air filter and cabin filters are both easy.
Just pay attention to the version of the air filter....there are typically 2, one a cold weather version with an added layer (should be what you have in Massachusetts) and a slightly cheaper one without.
Similarly the cabin filter typically has 3 options... electrostatic, carbon, sometimes a anti odor middle ground version. Difference comes down to volume of airflow due to restriction.
Typically most OEM ones are white or if they are black, it means they have carbon...just kinda depends on what your previous shop was installing.
But honestly an oil change and a fuel filter change, you are looking at $200+...but about $100 saved overall doing the air filter and cabin filters is a huge help

I linked the correct parts, including the cold-weather filter !

A YouTube clip on the fuel filter looks pretty easy. Didn’t mention priming it. Unless that means pouring fuel into the new filter.

1. Unscrew the five bolts and carefully pull out old filter. Discard into a plastic bag.
2. Use clean shop rags to mop up all the diesel left in the canister, and to wipe down the inside to check for shavings. Discard rags into plastic bag.
3. Tie up and discard plastic bag.
4. Insert new fuel filter.
5. Tighten five bolts to 5 nm which is fingertip 'guten-tight'.
6. Press engine on, but don't start just yet. Turn off and repeat once more because anxiety. This should prime the fuel lines.
7. Start engine and check canister for leaks.

It's a 5 minute job.

My recommendation and what I did not having access to a lift, is to do all the other filters yourself, then go to the dealership for their $100 oil change coupon. For example: https://www.vwmedford.com/oil-change-dealer-service-offer/

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

That does sound straightforward. But my car’s a push button start.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

That does sound straightforward. But my car’s a push button start.

You push button-on without holding the brake. Accessory mode.

Also, not sure what you have for tools. But this set is literally all you'll need for anything you'd feel comfortable DIYing: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-offset-star-drive-wrench-set-42926.html

 

[JM Popaleetus]

Cabin Air Filter:

Engine Air Filter:

Fuel Filter:

Don't use powertools.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Thanks, guys! I’m ready for the Mars mission now.

 

[Lightflyer1]

You should easily be able to do this. My daughter has watched me do it a couple of times and she's about ready for her own episode.

 

[Nuje]

Mine was saved by a nice Dutch family who hid it in their attic.

Too soon.

 

[Nuje]

6. Press engine on, but don't start just yet. Turn off and repeat once more because anxiety. This should prime the fuel lines.

Just because having the HPFP spinning with no fuel is a really bad thing, I'd do this a lot more than twice. With VCDS, the pump runs for at least 30sec (maybe closer to a minute (?)).
So, if I didn't have VCDS and just using the initial surge of the in-tank pump to get fuel into the canister and air out.....I'd be going closer to ten times.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

So you believe that priming it 10 times is what’s needed.

 

[Lightflyer1]

First choice is to use vcds like it's supposed to be done. Then there are various other ways to get it done, but you have to do more than the normal. Some people even fill the filter canister with additive or clean fuel before buttoning it up. The object is to get enough fuel up to all the needed spots so that nothing is running dry. However, much that takes. Better a few times too many, then not enough.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I’m not spending even more money on VCDS. Enough people seem to change fuel filters successfully without it.

 

[Lightflyer1]

I understand not wanting to buy vcds. Just trying to state that when you vary from the established procedure then anything is possible. The video that I mostly saw said to fill the canister with additive and button it up, then cycle the key or button like that three times and then try to start. But 10 times of cycling won't hurt it any either.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I’d be fine with 10 times.

 

[borninabus]

why do you own this car (or more than one, apparently) if you feel that the proper tools for it and the maintenance are so expensive? i thought that it was well known that it costs a premium to drive these cars. maybe not?

you're not going to be able to get much free help here or anywhere else when your MIL comes on and you're having it scanned at autozone. the only real way to save money is to be an educated consumer--which it appears you are trying to become, albeit in a somewhat painful way to watch--even when the only clear answer is to lay out some cash.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Thanks for your more than somewhat skewed advice.

 

[Lug_Nut]

"... free help ...." is too often an oxymoron.
"... the only way to save money .... is to lay out some cash."

MWG, I still have my VCDS if you ever have the need, like if you get a blister on your push button finger.