yes, for most cp3 kits now you just reuse the temp sensor + hosing as is
Unfortunately, once the stock pump goes - you likely have aluminum shavings in the fuel system and the entire system must be replaced to avoid further contamination of the new pump.
which i will point out isnt a HUGE HUGE deal to do. it is just financially costly.
Nice - and also, don't forget to pump/drain the tank!
I have installed 5 of these from United! All excellent Quality and the metering valve is the correct one.Got my CP3 pump.
The PUMP is interesting. It was just made 10/21/2024? I just got it 10/27/2024. This is from Whitbread Performance Kit. The pump is remanufactured and comes directly shipped from United Performance Co UK. It is stamped with that recent 10/21/2024 date along with BOSCH and 0445 010 045 with other part numbers CR/CP353/R70/20-789S.... See pictures. I am just curious. It looks well put together.
I guess the date was what they stamped right before it went out the door and it was already built and tested I hope.
I do not think this is Bosch or at least all OEM parts?
The main housing is new, and has three numbers stamped in it (05483 0983 0511)
Should I trust this. Whitbread has been using them for a long time.
The fuel pressure control valve PN is 0928400643. I think that is a good one but told by Whitbread I need to get a tune. I planned on it. However some say no tune?
My CP3 came with a metering valve that had no PN.. XMan said it was "Probably" PN: 0928400492 and ive had no issues.. Check out what metering valve part numbers are already compatible on TuneZilla.. They have a huge list of metering valve PNs when you go through their Auto tune page. Once I upgraded to a 2200BAR sensor they also offer that on the autotune page as well.. If you've still got emissions everything should still work fine on that end as well.Got my CP3 pump.
The PUMP is interesting. It was just made 10/21/2024? I just got it 10/27/2024. This is from Whitbread Performance Kit. The pump is remanufactured and comes directly shipped from United Performance Co UK. It is stamped with that recent 10/21/2024 date along with BOSCH and 0445 010 045 with other part numbers CR/CP353/R70/20-789S.... See pictures. I am just curious. It looks well put together.
I guess the date was what they stamped right before it went out the door and it was already built and tested I hope.
I do not think this is Bosch or at least all OEM parts?
The main housing is new, and has three numbers stamped in it (05483 0983 0511)
Should I trust this. Whitbread has been using them for a long time.
The fuel pressure control valve PN is 0928400643. I think that is a good one but told by Whitbread I need to get a tune. I planned on it. However some say no tune?
YES! you are correct. glad to hear about United. I have been eyeing on them but not sure of the pricing and such. my CP3 is 200k miles old now. would like to have an backup.... just in case. my FMV has been 0928400643 on 2 set. (old 2011 JSW by 2micron so I kept his advices/tips for FMV 0928400643 and such) this is my 2nd 2micron cp3 in my 2014 JSW. (from other owner who no longer have the TDI with 20k miles on it and I racked 180k miles on it)
This is not true, CARB knows what the checksum on your ecu/tune should be and any aftermarket tune is not going to match their database causing a fail during a smog check
I do not live in California but my response about the tune was based on reports from others that say they passed the test.
I have only heard of the earlier edc15 ecu based TDIs not getting flagged when smoging with a tune. Haven't seen anyone with a common rail that's wanted to test their luck on that front
That is the INFO I needed! OK I feel better, thanks for this. Yes on adjusting for fuel pressure Reg setting. Will do.
One tiny question. Why "I keep one on hand"? I expect (in my mind) a CP3 will last 200,000 miles ( or more ) and if it fails output will get low benignly, aka no shrapnel in fuel system. Go buy a pump at that time. Are they going to become un-obtain-knee-um, rare?
Once you have a CP3 if your going to do a tune anyway, the 2200 bar sensor is only like a $99 tune and gives you an additional 100 bar of fuel pressure. This noticably improves power while shorter duration lowers EGT and can even slightly improve fuel economy. And since it's a 5 minute install, why not!!
I keep one around because I have 4 of them in service and then I get my friends to buy VW and I sell it to them! The pump direct from United is like 375 pounds so not bad.
get a 2700bar.. 2200bar is a pointless upgrade. if your tuner says to get a 2200bar it is because theyre an objectively bad tuner who cant figure out how to tune the fuel pressure for use with a 2700bar. so their solution is to instead pin the fuel pressure, and shoot for above the sensor range so that the ECU is blind to any fuel fluctations outside the sensor range which would otherwise cause a fault/DTC-trigger
I have the 2700 in one of mine but the 2200 is cheaper and easier to get and stock injectors are maxed at 2000 bar so unless you are planning on upgraded injectors I just use the 2200. But I do agree with you that if you might ever upgrade you can get the 2700 and be done.
lookup the 2700bar PN i have in my sig
my butt dyno says the car runs better. the engine feels smoother, and i havent been able to induce limp mode with it setup like this.
OK thanks for info. I may paint the pump.... Fire Engine Red. Ha ha.
Did the same thing to mine. I've had the low rail pressure limp mode for over a year when I go WOT; especially in sport mode. Took it for a ride and couldn't get it to go into limp mode after doing this. Will continue to drive it and see but I'm very optimistic. Car pulls hard and runs really nice. Stage 2 Malone cp3 ckra intake Darkside intercooler. Thanks for posting this.just rerouted my OEM canister fuel lines. looped the returns together, and piped the CP3 return directly into the tank return.
effectively making the OEM canister/filter an inline filter
i was able to bleed with VCDS this way!
that'll do it!
Well aware of their lackluster tuning at this point. Problem is hindsight is 20/20 and my tuning selection is said and done for now. Don't feel like dropping more money at the moment on more tuning. Hoping this is a permanent fix instead. My only problem with this is what are the drawbacks of routing the fuel this way? Was talking to Isaac from Fisher Motorworks and he was saying there are check valves in the head of those filter canisters and this might have some drawbacks but he was going to think on it and get back to me.
just rerouted my OEM canister fuel lines. looped the returns together, and piped the CP3 return directly into the tank return
Same here!
fwiw, i was able to obtain a refund from malone after retuning with @Xtremefunky
