So this last weekend I started in on doing my install of my CP3, 1 Micron filtering kit, Fluidampr, and timing belt protector. This was the second time I was completing this project since I helped Schriebers install his CP3 before. This made me feel overly confident and led to mistakes that I’ll get to.
First….Here are some pictures of all the parts that I had ahead of time.
You might notice that I have two timing belt protectors. The raw finished one I got from Ken (Buzzken) but couldn’t fit the Fluidampr. I let Andrew (2 Micron) know and he had a new batch that he just got done with so he sent the black anodized one with the rest of my adapter hardware.
I know I was a pain for Andrew. I was waiting for my kit for over 3 months and I pestered him at least once a week to see where he stood with production. Lucky for him my e-mails were going to his spam folder. hahaha.
Here are some pictures of my engine before install.
Andrew provides a pretty complete instruction document when you order the kit from him. If you are mechanically inclined you’ll be able to follow everything and the job goes very smoothly.
Edit: I want to make one reinforcement comment about the instructions. Please please please use your finger and put a layer of anti seize on both sides of the adapter plate. The adapter plate is aluminum and sandwiched by steel on both sides. The last thing you want there is corrosion.
There are a couple parts that I got frustrated with the first install through and the second time through. Removing the Auxiliary pump wasn’t difficult but I could never figure out what it was getting held up on. Here is a picture to give you an idea of how it’s all lined up. The rubber brackets hold the pump in the above metal bracket very securely and from what I remember there is no nuts or bolts that specifically hold the pump in there.
There are two screws that connect the power leads, positive and negative. I think they are 7mm and 8mm...yea, they are different sizes…
The other area that was frustrating was trying to get the adapter on the fuel pump torqued down. I am pretty sure that I got close to the recommended 95 ft lbs using a torque wrench and pulley holder but my holder bent a little and kept slipping. I made sure my porter cable electric impact was fully charged and gave it a few quick goes at it to top it off.
The timing belt video done by myturbodiesel.com is priceless. When you use it and finish your install I would highly recommend donating. It is that helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAi667H7M2Y
A few notes with the timing belt. You can technically skip some steps if you are reusing the same belt. I would highly recommend not to. This was my mistake. I thought I remembered what I was doing from the first install and didn’t get the belt reinstalled correctly. I was able to start it without causing damage but it sounded like a tin can with nuts and bolts inside. It was confusing, scary, and nerve wracking all at the same time. I started the video over and went step by step over everything. Got it back together perfectly.
When you get everything installed and try to start it for the first time you need to prime the fuel system. Obviously there’s no fuel in any of the new parts you just put it. We primed Schriebers car for a long time and I primed my car for a long time as well. It still took quite a bit of cold cranking for everything to get going. Don’t get discouraged by cranking but don’t just hold the key down for too long and heat up the starter. I prefer to go for 10-15 seconds at a time.
I used a fuel line Andrew developed for use with an EGR in place. As you have noticed I don’t have an EGR. I used the Darkside kit to remove it. This line does require a little modification. You need to use three washers to space the dipstick tube a little forward so it doesn’t contact the new fuel line. Don’t judge my locking washers, it’s the only option I had.
You also have to slightly push the AC line to clear the new 1 Micron filter you want to use.You can see the clearance that i got here.
