Did you get any codes? That sounds like a fuel input issue since the car started. Double check the feed and return hoses as I have seen these get reversed. Then of course check for leaks on the high pressure side. Since it started you must be pretty close!
You must remove the intermediate fuel pump. It's the one between the tank and the fuel filter. The CP3 has its own lift built in. You can't just unplug it, you have to have the hose from the tank go straight to the filter
You can unplug the electric connection on the CP3 and it will start and run in limp mode. Who did you buy the pump from? I would contact them next as what you are describing is very common
are you positive it doesnt just need a re priming?
Solved that problem. Cp3s needs longer craking before starting.
Yes I did see that post. Also I took 4 metering valves apart and from what i can see there is no difference between them. Do these have different resistance in them?
That's not true, my CP3 starts about a quarter second quicker than my old CP4 ever did.
yeah mine aswell....
Great info! I looked over some video on how people modify their cp3 pumps and they are doing that by mounting different pin inside the valve.
for the record its a cp3 upgrade you already have a cp4, i assume you meant that however. i think whitbread is about the only one still selling kits. overall i am happy with mine. i cannot stress enough though while installing make sure if you are following 2Microns instructions found on whitbreads page DO NOT follow his torque specs for the adaptor plate studs! Whitbread has the proper specs on his page under the link, i overlooked this initially and snapped a stud off. overall its a very easy diy project but make sure you have all the required tools and some.
no, i have a duramax cp3 in my garage which is quite a bit larger than my united diesel rebuilt cp3 in the tdi. ive read cr jeep liberties used them as well as certain citroens and peugots i believe but thats still pretty unclear. also you can have the right pump but the wrong metering valve. i ordered mine through whitbread but you likely could source it directly from united diesel, however you would still need to source the rest of the needed parts. i do know tunzilla/malone has a list of metering valves when they write a tune for a cp3 so looking at their page may get you off to the right start if you insist on sourcing your own...
i cant help you with pics here but as far as bending the lines its kinda just up to you how you route and bend it. expect to take it on and off several time and making slight tweaks til it fits. i plumbed mine to an alternative fuel port thats "behind the egr" as opposed to "in front" but i have a cjaa... also try to reuse as many fuel line hold downs as possible and not let it rub on anything.
Yes I thought it was a stronger setup, especially when people were saying the adaptor plate studs are easily over torqued.
and the timing belt is still properly alligned i assume?Yes I thought it was a stronger setup, especially when people were saying the adaptor plate studs are easily over torqued.
There is plenty of material to drill and tap new threads, at least 10mm depth.
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Yes I made the sprocket on mine to suit the offset.
Ok, the engine should start WITHOUT the electrical connector to the CP3 or a tune. I would check the fuel lines to make sure they are hooked up correctly (I have seen them hooked up wrong). You did remove the aux pump?? Check those hoses too. You can unhook the feed line from the rail and crank it to make sure you have positive flow from the pump. Other than that the next question is are you sure you locked the crank/cam when you put in the new pump? The belt can jump a tooth or two.