T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
anyone know which wire goes on which side for the metering valve pig tail?
CP3 fuel pump upgrade thread
- Thread starter YukonLT
- Start date
smelly621
Veteran Member
The terminals are numbered on the old and new plugs, keep the locations the same
T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
sure enough thanks...
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T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
Put me on the list!
Tuheeden
Veteran Member
Is it running????? Looks great!
T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
runs better than ever! i have a malone tune for it but gonna drive a few days without to get a true comparison. i did install my dynamic egr tune a few weeks back.
T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
i think the best part of this mod is now without the aux. pump you can easily inspect the timing belt assy. 45min hwy drive to work today went smooth, all my unexplained hicuups or dead spots seemed to have gone away also! i didnt find metal in the f/f bowl but i bet my roller cam lobe was sideways....i plan to take the cp4 apart someday.
T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
Im typing in bold in attempt to help
prevent anyone from overlooking the info on Whitbreads page like I did in regards to overtorqueing the adaptor plate stud/nuts. I spent about 2 months reading this log, 2Microns instructions, watching youtube videos and any other prepping I could do. I do vauquely recall seeing Whitbreads disclaimer stating to only torque them to 12-15ft/lbs but that was long before I even ordered. during the install I basically only referenced the 2Micron instructions linked on Whitbreads page. The fact that this info is in essentialy the final sentence following 2Microns link most may never read it. If you did it's not fresh enough in your memory by the time you reach this step. Nor is it mentioned nearly enough on this log given his kit is pretty popular. Overall no hard feelings it is 100% my own fault. I might attempt to edit the instructions soon.... but who reads those?
prevent anyone from overlooking the info on Whitbreads page like I did in regards to overtorqueing the adaptor plate stud/nuts. I spent about 2 months reading this log, 2Microns instructions, watching youtube videos and any other prepping I could do. I do vauquely recall seeing Whitbreads disclaimer stating to only torque them to 12-15ft/lbs but that was long before I even ordered. during the install I basically only referenced the 2Micron instructions linked on Whitbreads page. The fact that this info is in essentialy the final sentence following 2Microns link most may never read it. If you did it's not fresh enough in your memory by the time you reach this step. Nor is it mentioned nearly enough on this log given his kit is pretty popular. Overall no hard feelings it is 100% my own fault. I might attempt to edit the instructions soon.... but who reads those?
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T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
welp today the car lost power, glowplug light was flashing and went into limp mode, I had just left a customers house and was on a back road so I pulled over and shut it down. upon restarting it was normal, I still plugged in my obdeleven and pulled the stored codes, got P0087 twice, one stating it was a mechanical malfunction the other upper limit exceeded, both stating rail pressure too low. cleared all the codes and nothing came back. i had several other systems claim they had intermittent ecu communication. battery terminals are tight, my electrical work looks good on my metering valve and all my other work checks out. car drove fine 2 days without my malone cp3 tune and one and 1-1/2 days fine with it it but i assume its related. several pages back i see someone had a similar issue claiming removing the aux/lift pump and re priming plus some logs sent to 2micron solved it. i obviously removed the aux pump as its common knowledge that it isnt needed now, considering a reprime although its odd I suddenly would have pulled air but not impossible. anyone more recently experience this? or have any further thoughts or advice?
Tuheeden
Veteran Member
That's an interesting one. Just for reference, you can disconnect the wires from the metering valve and the car will start and run in limp mode. So my thoughts are to check the connection there. My first connector would come loose, which is how I know this. I might try it again to see if the code is P0087 but that sounds familiar. Repriming would seem to indicate a connection not tight but you would notice a leak almost for sure. And air will cause a no start no run condition which it doesn't sound like you have.
T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
yeah its unlikely air cause it starts great and has zero leaks, just simple enough to check off the list thats all, i solderd my metering valve harness so it should be making good connections but also easy to check. car is fine again and may have just been a one time thing but seems awful ironic that i just retuned it and now this... im gonna wiggle the wire on the metering valve and try to mimic it. i have a bad injector harness connection on my 7.3 that only occasionally surfaces and wiggling the harness fixes the misfire yet never mimics it when attempting to figure out exactly which connection is bad so we will see if this is any different lol... although i dont think a bad metering valve would have given ecu codes in every other system of the car so still assume its tune related. guess i will email malone....
T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
well when i unplug the metering valve i get P0090 not P0087 so i think its safe to assume my wiring is good. none of the ecu codes came back either like i assumed. i didnt re prime cause it starts perfect and doesnt leak so i know that isnt the issue, also why create another mess for nothing.... still waiting to hear back from malone. all the data i checked on obd eleven looks normal. it has to have been a glitch in my tune. took the car out and drove it hard still handles great, would love to hope its a one time occurance but not likely....
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sauron18
Veteran Member
Weird. My TDI is running perfect with the cp3. Before with the cp4 it gave me p0087 when i pushed the car with the Xman cr170. Malone told me the cp4 couldn't keep up with the Xman. Haven't do any logs yet. Wait for them to reply.
T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
i was going about 30mph when it happened too. given the multiple ecu codes i think its a glitch in the tune not a true loss of rail pressure. only happened once thus far...
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T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
malone said occasionally after a retune the car will throw a code or two in the re-learning process and then never again so hopefully it was a one time event for me. thanks all!
ksing44
Veteran Member
How many of you have the secondary 2-micron filter between the OEM fuel filter and the CP3 pump?
I have it on my car. The amazing machinist and inventor, "2Micron", told me the secondary fuel filter was good for at least 100K miles. I'm coming up on 60K miles. I'm thinking I'll let it ride this time because it's a 2-hour drive each way to get work done by someone that knows about the secondary filter. I'm not a DIY guy. The mechanic at the dealer seems fine with just changing the OEM filter when I get the work done and I've had no problems so far.
What do you guys think about the 100K interval for the secondary fuel filter?
I have it on my car. The amazing machinist and inventor, "2Micron", told me the secondary fuel filter was good for at least 100K miles. I'm coming up on 60K miles. I'm thinking I'll let it ride this time because it's a 2-hour drive each way to get work done by someone that knows about the secondary filter. I'm not a DIY guy. The mechanic at the dealer seems fine with just changing the OEM filter when I get the work done and I've had no problems so far.
What do you guys think about the 100K interval for the secondary fuel filter?
Tuheeden
Veteran Member
The CP3 doesn't require a second filter so I never made the leap! 2-micron did the community a huge favor both with his original filter then with his CP3 solution! And he still answers the occasion email!!
T1MMBOJONES
Veteran Member
honestly anyone with two functioning arms and half a brain can change a fuel filter, if you absolutely insist on paying someone for 5 minutes worth of work the guy changing your factory filter will be plenty capable, if not i would no longer trust his ability to do any work on your car. that said i dont care what 2 micron said, i would never run a fuel filter longer than 20k in any diesel ive ever owned period but you do you, not trying to debate....i think you may find it an easier diy than you think. obdeleven is useful for priming but honestly if there is fuel in the filter/housing it should self prime. the cp3 is less concerning as far as air in the fuel goes in my opinion/understanding.
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Wilkins
Veteran Member
If you are not mechanically inclined something like changing a filter could be a bit challenging, and the 2micron might not be something a dealership would touch. I’m pretty sure any independent diesel mechanic can help, probably with a reasonable labour charge. Sourcing the correct filter might be a problem for some but should only take time. I’m pretty sure it’s a common filter used in various fuel delivery applications but I could be wrong.
I have a gauge on mine and when it reads over 10 psi at idle I may consider replacing the filter. I think 2micron had a pressure limit when the filter was to be replaced but I would have to look it up.
I have a gauge on mine and when it reads over 10 psi at idle I may consider replacing the filter. I think 2micron had a pressure limit when the filter was to be replaced but I would have to look it up.
ksing44
Veteran Member
I'm thinking that's certainly true for the primary filter, but the secondary filter only sees fuel that already passed through the first filter.
Getting the correct filter is part of my concern. I'm sure the original installer would get it right.
It would be nice if I had a gauge to monitor the secondary filter, but mine was installed without a gauge.
That makes me feel better! I'm only at 60K on the secondary filter and the primary OEM filter has been changed on schedule.
Thank you all for your comments! I'm going to have the primary fuel filter changed now and plan to make the drive go to get a new secondary filter sometime this summer. Part of me also wants to just remove the secondary filter instead of getting a new one, but I won't be racking up miles like I did in the past so it probably doesn't really matter at this point.
aidanryanA4CR136
Member
*URGENT* P0088 code - Fuel rail/system pressure too high.
Just installed a CP3, and Metering valve with the correct number.
Car is 2011 Audi A4 2.0 Tdi CJCB
It starts fine, doesn't throw any code and will even take WOT but then if you give it 10 to 15% throttle it will go into limp mode.
has anyone had this issue?
Just installed a CP3, and Metering valve with the correct number.
Car is 2011 Audi A4 2.0 Tdi CJCB
It starts fine, doesn't throw any code and will even take WOT but then if you give it 10 to 15% throttle it will go into limp mode.
has anyone had this issue?
Tuheeden
Veteran Member
Did you remove the intermediate fuel pump? If not that will always cause the issue.
aidanryanA4CR136
Member
I don't think there is intermediate pump in a b8 audi a4?
Tuheeden
Veteran Member
Did you do a tune after the CP3? That's not necessary on the CJA and CBE. I would check with the vendor that sold you the CP3 as they are usually good at isolating that issue. Unfortunately that is pretty common after the upgrade but the fix is usually pretty easy once it's isolated
aidanryanA4CR136
Member
it appears I do have an intermediate pump, will unplugging it still allow fuel to pass through it?
Tuheeden
Veteran Member
Usually it was to be removed. The tank pump might be able to push through it but straight through is best. Disconnecting it will not give you any error lights
aidanryanA4CR136
Member
do ypu know what kind of pressures fuel lines would have to endure for feeding into cp3?
Tuheeden
Veteran Member
The CP3 has a worm drive I believe so it can pull in its own fuel so the tank pump just needs to provide the input volume. In my experience if you have more than 5 psi or so at the CP3 it's usually to much
Hello! I need some help with my cp3 conversion...
So, yesterday I finished my cp3 conversion to a vw passat 2.0, i primed the fuel system and the car started right away, built the needed pressure but after 20 seconds of running stalled and i cant figure out what just happened. I removed the fca, the ramp pressure control valve and the pump builds only 8 bar of pressure wich i suppose is made by the tank pump
So, yesterday I finished my cp3 conversion to a vw passat 2.0, i primed the fuel system and the car started right away, built the needed pressure but after 20 seconds of running stalled and i cant figure out what just happened. I removed the fca, the ramp pressure control valve and the pump builds only 8 bar of pressure wich i suppose is made by the tank pump