Oh excellent. So just to clarify, inserting the sprocket bolts into the hub itself will act as a make-shift puller with the bolts reacting against the pump body on the backside? Now I just need my counter hold tools to come in and were game for an install.
Thankfully, I got to practice a few weeks ago on a 2012 Passat TDI that came into the junkyard. No clue what I'll get for the CP4 on ebay, but after pulling the HPFP off, it made sense.
So to answer your question, yes, use the bolts to carefully back off the hub. You're technically supposed to get new bolts though, and they're like a buck fifty each.
Per my "thread awakening", I did swap my CP3 from my 2010 to my 2013, and it took about 12.5 hours between both cars, plus having to redo the timing belt alignment on the 2013 an additional time.
Several things I noted. Andrew's CP3 install PDF says 24ft lb of torque on the mounting bracket nuts (staked nut and 2 lock nuts). Also, 24 ft lb on the CP3 itself.
I just received my Sportwagen/CJAA Bentley manual on Thursday. It says 15ft lb on the CP4, plus 90 degrees extra. They're TTY bolts, so you're supposed to change them. And given I used them to back out the hub, why not?
Also, the hub nut is 75ft lbs on the CP4, and 95ft lbs on the CP3. I had the counterhold tool from metalnerd. I got lucky and found one on ebay that was about $15-20 cheaper than what his is new, so I snatched that up about a month ago. I think you can use the sprocket buster for that, but I couldn't recommend the counterhold tool enough. Has a cutout for a 1/2" drive breaker bar (or ratchet or etc). The CP4 was easy, but that CP3 was TOUGH getting off. Torquing it back up wasn't that bad, though.