CP3 fuel pump upgrade thread

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
This thread got quiet. So I finally picked up the timing belt tools needed to swap over my CP3. If I have the energy, I'll work on at least pulling it out of the 2010 this weekend.

Also, does anyone know if the CP3 sold with the 2micron kit were new, rebuilt, used tested or used untested?
 

calimustang

Veteran Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Location
Central FL
TDI
2011 JSW DSG (buyback, RIP), 2014 JSW TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2013 Jetta TDI.
This thread got quiet. So I finally picked up the timing belt tools needed to swap over my CP3. If I have the energy, I'll work on at least pulling it out of the 2010 this weekend.

Also, does anyone know if the CP3 sold with the 2micron kit were new, rebuilt, used tested or used untested?

Yeah they are sold new with CP3 kit. I got mine used CP3 with the bracket kit. I had 2micron filter kit and sold to another member here which I wont need them. Im on 2nd CP3. First one was brand new kit for my old 2011 JSW and now I now have 2014 JSW and dropped a CP3 in her.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Pitboy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Location
Coral Springs, FL
TDI
2010 Golf 2 Door
Actually some were new, some were rebuilds. Mine was a rebuild because I didn't want to wait for several weeks for a new one. Still works fine.
 

JordanLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Location
Vancouver/Seattle
TDI
2014 GSW
About to drop in my CP3 pump for Aurelian (MacRadiator) here on TDIC. I just purchased a knock off timing belt tool kit on eBay but noticed it does not have the T40064 Puller needed to remove the HPFP hub once the sprocket is removed. Trying to line up everything in one go and making sure I have my bases covered while I use my friends shop.

Did anyone have a hard time removing the hub without the specific tool? Did you just loosen the pump mounting bolts and lightly tap the pump crank to get it the hub separate from the tapered end?
 

Pitboy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Location
Coral Springs, FL
TDI
2010 Golf 2 Door
Did anyone have a hard time removing the hub without the specific tool? Did you just loosen the pump mounting bolts and lightly tap the pump crank to get it the hub separate from the tapered end?

Use the old sprocket bolts as jack bolts to break the hub loose. Puller is optional but not a necessity.
 

JordanLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Location
Vancouver/Seattle
TDI
2014 GSW
Use the old sprocket bolts as jack bolts to break the hub loose. Puller is optional but not a necessity.
Oh excellent. So just to clarify, inserting the sprocket bolts into the hub itself will act as a make-shift puller with the bolts reacting against the pump body on the backside? Now I just need my counter hold tools to come in and were game for an install.
 

Pitboy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Location
Coral Springs, FL
TDI
2010 Golf 2 Door
Oh excellent. So just to clarify, inserting the sprocket bolts into the hub itself will act as a make-shift puller with the bolts reacting against the pump body on the backside? Now I just need my counter hold tools to come in and were game for an install.
Correct.
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Oh excellent. So just to clarify, inserting the sprocket bolts into the hub itself will act as a make-shift puller with the bolts reacting against the pump body on the backside? Now I just need my counter hold tools to come in and were game for an install.
Thankfully, I got to practice a few weeks ago on a 2012 Passat TDI that came into the junkyard. No clue what I'll get for the CP4 on ebay, but after pulling the HPFP off, it made sense.

So to answer your question, yes, use the bolts to carefully back off the hub. You're technically supposed to get new bolts though, and they're like a buck fifty each.

Per my "thread awakening", I did swap my CP3 from my 2010 to my 2013, and it took about 12.5 hours between both cars, plus having to redo the timing belt alignment on the 2013 an additional time.

Several things I noted. Andrew's CP3 install PDF says 24ft lb of torque on the mounting bracket nuts (staked nut and 2 lock nuts). Also, 24 ft lb on the CP3 itself.

I just received my Sportwagen/CJAA Bentley manual on Thursday. It says 15ft lb on the CP4, plus 90 degrees extra. They're TTY bolts, so you're supposed to change them. And given I used them to back out the hub, why not?

Also, the hub nut is 75ft lbs on the CP4, and 95ft lbs on the CP3. I had the counterhold tool from metalnerd. I got lucky and found one on ebay that was about $15-20 cheaper than what his is new, so I snatched that up about a month ago. I think you can use the sprocket buster for that, but I couldn't recommend the counterhold tool enough. Has a cutout for a 1/2" drive breaker bar (or ratchet or etc). The CP4 was easy, but that CP3 was TOUGH getting off. Torquing it back up wasn't that bad, though.
 

deegingerkid

Beware the Ginger! Vendor
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Location
The Left Coast
TDI
"Blurple" 2000 New Beetle 5M 2006 Jetta has been SOLD
Quick question about the CP3 and warranty - kid brother just got a buyback 2012 Golf TDI with 42k on it. It has CPO 2 year unlimited miles warranty and the 120k drivetrain/emissions warranty as required by the settlement with VW and the EPA. Does the CP3 swap void either/both?

He's not doing any exhaust work right now nor a tune b/c of the CPO warranty. When that's over, those items may be considered. TY for any responses! <3
 

JordanLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Location
Vancouver/Seattle
TDI
2014 GSW
I’m sure if they found out you had the pump on it would be voided for sure. But with this mod and not needing a tune, they wouldn’t be able to physically tell you had it installed should you need to swap back. I feel like this mod should only be attempted once you’ve thrown the warranty out the door. I only did it because I went Stage 2 w/ deletes and to have to install the emissions back in to walk into warranty would be a pain in the ass. Going with the CP3 now, for me, is further away from warranty and further bulletproofing the car.
 

tommyesteban

New member
Joined
Mar 29, 2020
Location
San Fernando Valley
TDI
2014 Jetta sportwagen

JordanLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Location
Vancouver/Seattle
TDI
2014 GSW
Highly recommend you consult with MacRadiator as well either on here or his eBay shop. He sells reman’d kits that are a bargain compared to options you’ve listed. He’s a great guy with awesome support as well.
 

tjg

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Location
Ft. Hood, TX
TDI
'13 TDI A3, '14 TDI Sportwagen
I just ordered two tested CP3 pumps from Darkside (for my sportagen and A3). The exchange rate is pretty favorable.

There is a slight lead time because they need to send the used pumps out to get tested FYI.
 

calimustang

Veteran Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Location
Central FL
TDI
2011 JSW DSG (buyback, RIP), 2014 JSW TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2013 Jetta TDI.
Nice to know. :) Darkside are awesome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ksing44

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Location
Southeast PA
TDI
2010 Golf TDI
Hi guys, this is my first ever reply on this forum. I am really interested on a cp3 conversion, and am deciding between either German Diesel Motor Werks https://www.germandieselmotorwerks.com/products/cp3-fuel-pump-conversion-kit/ or the Darkside Developments kit https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/stage-1-cp3-fuel-pump-conversion-kit-for-2-0-common-rail-engines.html. They both come in different options from both websites and wanted to know if anyone has recommendations. Thanks.
I used German Diesel Motorwerks for my CP3 upgrade and would highly recommend them for their expertise, but I lived close enough to actually go there and have them complete the work. I'd also trust them for parts and you can call them easily for advice, but if you're just buying parts to do the work yourself maybe it's not as important.
 
Last edited:

MikeH31324

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Location
SE Georgia USA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI 2 door 6MT
I have read that the aux fuel pump located on the right strut tower can be removed after the installation of a CP3 pump. Does any coding need to be performed when the aux pump is removed?
 

calimustang

Veteran Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Location
Central FL
TDI
2011 JSW DSG (buyback, RIP), 2014 JSW TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2013 Jetta TDI.
Nope. Just run it and go. As long as you put CP3 on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MikeH31324

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Location
SE Georgia USA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI 2 door 6MT
I figured the car may monitor the status of the aux pump via CAN BUS. Good to know that I can just unplug the aux pump and run it. I will be buying a CP3 kit soon.
 

calimustang

Veteran Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Location
Central FL
TDI
2011 JSW DSG (buyback, RIP), 2014 JSW TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2013 Jetta TDI.
Hmm CP3 alone? Not exhaust and etc?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JELLOWSUBMARINE

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Location
yes
TDI
2011 Jetta Sportwagen, 6M, red/tan, navi, pano, 83 5m diesel pickup, 82 p/u trailer,.04 5.5 TDI Passat wagon (gone), 80,81,82 diesel p/u (gone), 80,82 sportruck (gone), 59 passthru bus (long gone), 79&87 westy (gone), 57 baja bug (long gone), 73 914
i have the KermaTDI tune and i can revert to stock tune that's not a problem.

my question/concern is more in the scenario that i have to drive in stock mode/stock tune for smog purposes. last time i switched from tune to stock i had to drive approximately 800 miles during a 2 week span for the readiness codes to be ok so i could pass smog.
?
Ouch.... I just did a Kerma on my 11JSW. Less than 200 miles so far. On reverting back, is the 800 mile before setting readiness monitors normal?
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
The aux pump is removed in a proper cp3 install. No coding required.
 

JordanLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Location
Vancouver/Seattle
TDI
2014 GSW
Installed my kit from Macradiator and used the GDM installation guide. There’s a few things I wish the guide would include. I had a hard time cranking the HPFP nut to 95ftlbs because it kept turning the entire pump. I even had Metalnerd tools to act as a holder but it still spun the HPFP crank. I ended up fitting my 1/2 Milwaukee impact and all it took was one Ugga Dugga to get it to seat and I could torque it up. I followed an OEM service manual for the timing belt and that went super well except for the last few steps of doing the 2 rotations of the crank and then inserting all the holders to verify tension and timing. I could not for the life of my get the camshaft hold down tool back in and when I did, the crankshaft lockdown could thread it but it wasn’t extremely smooth. I’m talking like 1-2 though out from being able to thread the lockdown tool in by hand. I couldn’t see this being a huge issue as I verified there wasn’t any clearance issue or being out a tooth and my tension was within 5mm of the notch. A lot of timing belt guides don’t even go that into depth with checking the hold downs again and just verify tension is correct. Primed it with VCDS 4-5 times but it still wouldn’t bleed out the rail. I had to crank it multiple times before I had the rail wet. Fired over very quickly after that and I don’t think I’ve been so happy after a long days of wrenching.

I managed to finally get my 2Microntech secondary filter as well, the lines are a bit funky but that can be fixed later. Macs kit is wonderful for the price, you just cant beat it. You do need to bend the high pressure line a bit but its doable. His support is top notch and you’re getting a reman’d pump that looks great. The only major difference between the GDM/2Micron CP3 kit is that its a slightly different CP3 so the fuel feed is in a different spot. That means you have to use some plastic barbs instead of the nice CNC’d aluminum ones that GDM gives you. Next up is a 2060 turbo from Mac and Ill be good to go.

 

MikeH31324

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Location
SE Georgia USA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI 2 door 6MT
Installed my kit from Macradiator and used the GDM installation guide. There’s a few things I wish the guide would include. I had a hard time cranking the HPFP nut to 95ftlbs because it kept turning the entire pump. I even had Metalnerd tools to act as a holder but it still spun the HPFP crank. I ended up fitting my 1/2 Milwaukee impact and all it took was one Ugga Dugga to get it to seat and I could torque it up. I followed an OEM service manual for the timing belt and that went super well except for the last few steps of doing the 2 rotations of the crank and then inserting all the holders to verify tension and timing. I could not for the life of my get the camshaft hold down tool back in and when I did, the crankshaft lockdown could thread it but it wasn’t extremely smooth. I’m talking like 1-2 though out from being able to thread the lockdown tool in by hand. I couldn’t see this being a huge issue as I verified there wasn’t any clearance issue or being out a tooth and my tension was within 5mm of the notch. A lot of timing belt guides don’t even go that into depth with checking the hold downs again and just verify tension is correct. Primed it with VCDS 4-5 times but it still wouldn’t bleed out the rail. I had to crank it multiple times before I had the rail wet. Fired over very quickly after that and I don’t think I’ve been so happy after a long days of wrenching.

I managed to finally get my 2Microntech secondary filter as well, the lines are a bit funky but that can be fixed later. Macs kit is wonderful for the price, you just cant beat it. You do need to bend the high pressure line a bit but its doable. His support is top notch and you’re getting a reman’d pump that looks great. The only major difference between the GDM/2Micron CP3 kit is that its a slightly different CP3 so the fuel feed is in a different spot. That means you have to use some plastic barbs instead of the nice CNC’d aluminum ones that GDM gives you. Next up is a 2060 turbo from Mac and Ill be good to go.

Where does the fuel temp sensor mount with this kit? Looks like it screws into one of the custom banjo fittings on the GDM kit.
 

JordanLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Location
Vancouver/Seattle
TDI
2014 GSW
If you look closely it utilizes the stock temp sensor housing. There’s a 90 that comes off the pump then another 90 built into the stock temp housing. And then right to my 2microntech filter head. That’s the only major difference with this pump over the GDM. The feed location between the GDM and Macs kit is different too. Macs comes off the black body right next to the high pressure line. GDMs comes off the silver aluminum mounting flange area.
 

MikeH31324

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Location
SE Georgia USA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI 2 door 6MT
I find it very interesting that a 0445010042 was originally installed on a engine that only made something like 62HP. When installed on a 2.0 TDI with a tune producing close to 200HP crankshaft HP, I wonder how close these are being run to the max output.
 

adjat84th

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Location
Virginia Beach, VA
TDI
'01 Jetta TDI/'15 Golf TDI
I think my CP3 was a Smart/Mercedes application pump. Probably making 250bhp and holding 2000bar just fine on my Golf.
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
I find it very interesting that a 0445010042 was originally installed on a engine that only made something like 62HP. When installed on a 2.0 TDI with a tune producing close to 200HP crankshaft HP, I wonder how close these are being run to the max output.
Not close. It's a R70 CP3. 3.0 L I6 BMW diesels came with R70 pumps too. Guys manage to get 350 hp of fueling from those pumps before they step up to rhe R90 pumps.
 
Top