Thanks Shocks. I was reluctant to go to VW as it’s likely they will fit or sell me the same part which is obviously the cause of all our problems, but i’m no mechanic so I can’t dismantle and delve to far - I’ll break something else .
Deyan, just my opinion, but I wouldn't bother with the EGR and Intake Manifold, based on the experiences of most here, it will end up being the Matrix. Also, if they do start changing out bits like these, you're looking at some big bucks!For May 25 I have scheduled disassembly and testing of EGR and intake manifold. I'm hesitant to tell them to change my heater matrix first.
From memory, mine was a lot worse than this but I wouldn't rely completely on temperature differential to discount a restriction through the heater matrix.At a temperature set to HI and maximum fan power, the readings were 58 degrees Celsius on the left and 54 degrees Celsius on the right. Is this normal?
Hi I have a 1.9 tdi 2008 I have this type air lock/build that results in back pressure into the coolant reservoir causing a loss of coolant gushing out the overflow when i undo the cap. when you say "Matrix" do you mean the heater matrix??MaximusDoom, I would strongly advise you to find a new mechanic. The magic tools he's referring to cost about a hundred quid and even though doing a head gasket repair is time consuming, it should be well within the ability of anyone claiming to be a mechanic. Any independent specialist VAG mechanic should be able to do any VAG repair without exception, even adaptations requiring factory authorizations.
I also wouldn't advise anyone to start with the assumption it's a blown head gasket. The very large majority of people on this forum have fixed their issues with a heater matrix change and this in my opinion should be the starting point for most people in the affected mileage/age range we have seen.
What sort of head gasket test did this "mechanic" do, a gas test isn't conclusive as I found out when I decided to change my head gasket out based on results of one of these tests. I did this head gasket replacement by myself by the way, and without having burglarize a dealership for tools as well mind. I found nothing wrong with the head gasket.
Unfortunately, I didn't discover this helpful thread until I was halfway through that exercise, after putting everything back together I was still getting blowouts of coolant. Once I changed that Matrix though, voilà, problem gone!
Can you identify the specific pump (and perhaps a part#) that failed on your car based on the cooling system diagrams shown in this recent tdiclub post? Cooling System LoopsI own a 2013 registered Golf Mk 7 2.0 TDi Bluemotion. Low mileage-67,000 currently on the clock. Just recently it has had a history of coolant loss from the expansion bottle with no evidence of leaks or overheating, usually after a good run at main road/motorway speeds.. Both water pump and thermostat seals had already been replaced. Fault has now been identified as a defective ancillary water pump. Apparently the Mk 7 did away with an intercooler and two ancillary pumps do the job. A clue to this is also poor cabin heat performance. Now fixed to the tune of £240-the pump alone is £160. If you get any of these symptoms get your friendly garage to check them out in addition to the obvious.
Hi, from memory the service manual says to clamp at the bulkhead (engine side hoses), disconnect at the bulkhead connectors, and then clear the matrix and interior lines by using compressed air. Make sure to put a bottle or container over the second opening to catch the coolant.Hi all, hope this thread is still live. Have the same coolant loss problem on my 14 plate Golf mk7 GTD so I’m looking to change the heater matrix.
I’m confident I can do the trim removal to get to the core (sat nav, glove box etc). My question is (to those who have already gone down this path): Did you clamp off the heater hoses in the engine bay and disconnect them at the bulkhead? This is what it says in the vw manual. Or did you just clamp the hoses and catch the coolant as you disconnected at the heater matrix?
Many thanks for any advice.
Thanks for the advice Shocks. The reason I was exploring this option was that the bulkhead connections are a bit tricky to get at without removing some other bits first. Also best not to disturb connections that have been in place for a few years unless absolutely necessary.Hi, from memory the service manual says to clamp at the bulkhead (engine side hoses), disconnect at the bulkhead connectors, and then clear the matrix and interior lines by using compressed air. Make sure to put a bottle or container over the second opening to catch the coolant.
I would not recommend trying to catch the fluid in the car, the pipes are in an awkward place and you're going to make a mistake or miscalculation and end up with the inside of the car stinking of coolant for ever. There's a fair amount of coolant in that circuit and this is the reason the procedure is written the way it is.
That's interesting. Do you think there is a manufacturing defect? The climates are quite different. There must be as lot of people with this problem when you think only a tiny fraction of them will end up on this forum. I have a theory for others to blow apart. Let's imagine the defect is the headbolts fractionally too long or that they blow there thread out and let gases from the combustion chamber go down the head bolts and into a cooling passage. Another thing I was thinking about is the so-called parking heater. This small electric pump runs for a short time after the engine is turned off in order to heat up water in the heater circuit by taking the heat from the cylinder head.Sorry no help here but has anyone noticed all these cars are from the general areas of England, Spain and Australia?
great thread going here for this issue. I recently took my car to get cambelt+waterpump changed and get my 'no heat from vents' checked
no coolant leak was found external and CO2 test was done and came out green color. no leaks from water pump and both pipes hot from matrix. no error codes from computer
mechanic says coolant is burning internal possible internal blow needs further investigation however this particular garage dont do engine work.
is this likely to be head gasket related or still possibility of other issues
cambelt or pump werent changed in the end