strretch
Veteran Member
Hi all.
So a couple months ago, I had my first "limp mode" experience while driving from Maryland to Indiana. It went limp going up some hills, and the next time I stopped to fill the tank, the power came back like a light switch went off. Then the power went away again and pretty much stayed gone. After talking with some friends who know more about this than me, I was told that the turbo is likely coked and that I could try cleaning it out or replacing it. Granted $695 at Impex for a new turbo is a good deal, but I thought I'd try cleaning it first. Over the past few days, I pulled both the intake and the turbo/exhaust man. and gave them all a good cleaning.
Here's my experience, as it may be useful to others who have the same problem.
Before I started, I hooked up the MityVac to the vacuum line leading from the N75 to the turbo actuator just to verify that it was stuck. It was. Couldn't move it by hand or by MityVac. Okay, so I knew I had to get the turbo out of there to see what was going on. Once I got it out with the exhaust manifold, I noticed a couple things. First, I was never successful at getting the turbo separated from the exhaust manifold. I used penetrating oil and a lot of banging, and the thing would not come apart. I did remove the intake snail and clean that out, however. But second, and most important, it was not the vane lever and assembly that was the problem, I think. It was the vacuum actuator diaphragm piece itself. It was totally stuck and didn't want to move. After cleaning up the outside with solvent and adding some oil to work it into the bulb part, it works great now, and I could get the MityVac to work just fine with it. I guess I don't know for sure just how coked the inside of the turbo is, since I never was able to get it apart, but after getting everything back on the car, the actuator works now, and my power is restored!
The bottom line is this: Had I known to look for it, I could have gotten the vacuum bulb part off the turbo assembly without removing the exhaust manifold and turbo. It's easy really. It's just two 10mm bolts and a C-clip (in a patented easy-to-lose size) that holds it on, and it's right in your face when you're under the car. I guess I'm advocating that people check this out before going to all the trouble to remove the turbo and ex. man.
Hopefully this isn't old hat to the turbo experts. Let me know if this is already known. Comments please.
-Brian
So a couple months ago, I had my first "limp mode" experience while driving from Maryland to Indiana. It went limp going up some hills, and the next time I stopped to fill the tank, the power came back like a light switch went off. Then the power went away again and pretty much stayed gone. After talking with some friends who know more about this than me, I was told that the turbo is likely coked and that I could try cleaning it out or replacing it. Granted $695 at Impex for a new turbo is a good deal, but I thought I'd try cleaning it first. Over the past few days, I pulled both the intake and the turbo/exhaust man. and gave them all a good cleaning.
Here's my experience, as it may be useful to others who have the same problem.
Before I started, I hooked up the MityVac to the vacuum line leading from the N75 to the turbo actuator just to verify that it was stuck. It was. Couldn't move it by hand or by MityVac. Okay, so I knew I had to get the turbo out of there to see what was going on. Once I got it out with the exhaust manifold, I noticed a couple things. First, I was never successful at getting the turbo separated from the exhaust manifold. I used penetrating oil and a lot of banging, and the thing would not come apart. I did remove the intake snail and clean that out, however. But second, and most important, it was not the vane lever and assembly that was the problem, I think. It was the vacuum actuator diaphragm piece itself. It was totally stuck and didn't want to move. After cleaning up the outside with solvent and adding some oil to work it into the bulb part, it works great now, and I could get the MityVac to work just fine with it. I guess I don't know for sure just how coked the inside of the turbo is, since I never was able to get it apart, but after getting everything back on the car, the actuator works now, and my power is restored!
The bottom line is this: Had I known to look for it, I could have gotten the vacuum bulb part off the turbo assembly without removing the exhaust manifold and turbo. It's easy really. It's just two 10mm bolts and a C-clip (in a patented easy-to-lose size) that holds it on, and it's right in your face when you're under the car. I guess I'm advocating that people check this out before going to all the trouble to remove the turbo and ex. man.
Hopefully this isn't old hat to the turbo experts. Let me know if this is already known. Comments please.
-Brian