Comfortmodule 1J0 959 799 AH + Power windows

[berndh]

Hello,

When I want to build in a Comfortmodule with PN 1J0 959 799 AH, I see that I have to create a CAN Bus. I currently have a 2000 Golf 4 with manual windows and central locking. I do have all the powerwindows mechanics and buttons and the CCM. I know that the CCM comes in a version that supports 2 and 4 doors. Can I recode the modules, in case I have a 2 doors version?

CAN needs a termination resistor at the end of the CAN bus between the + and the - wire. Which modules do have the termination resistor build in? Or in which order do I have to hookup the modules to get this new CAN bus working in my car?

I was thinking about the following:

DriverSideWindowMotor => LeftRear => RichtFront => RightRear

And guessing that the two outsides have the termination build in. Is it really neccessary to create a bus topology or can I also create a star toplogy. The latter makes it a lot easier for me to install.


Thanks for all the answers.

Bernd

 

[MOGolf]

The ends of the bus are the driver's door module and the comfort control module. They have the termination built in. The other door(s) attach to the bus between those two modules.

The "soft coding" of the module tells it if you have 2 or 4 doors. The coding of the module with 2 doors + electric windows - memory seat is 256 (or 257 if you want all doors to lock/unlock at the same time). 4 doors is either 4096 or 4097.

 

[berndh]

Thanks for the reply. The softcoding can be changed with VAGCOM? With the recode option?

 

[MOGolf]

Yes, the 07 recode option is the one to use to set the soft coding.

 

[berndh]

Thanks for the answer.

The CCM that I have is the 1j0 959 799 Q. According to the one I bought it from, this module came out a T4. I know that this module is also used in the Golf, but since the T4 did not have rear windows I have to recode the module.

Or do you think that the T4 version is different from the Golf 1j0 959 799 Q.

Thanks again.
Bernd

 

[berndh]

Ok, I've build in the all the modules except the CCM. When I press the close button in the drivers door, all doors closes. But all the windows don't work. When I disconnect a door from the bus I can open the window for that door for a short period after disconnecting the battery for a short time. After about 10 minutes none of the window work anymore. I guess the can controllers are going to an error state and stop functioning.

When I connect all the doors together to the bus, the windows do not work, but the un/lock is working for that same period. Is this all normal behaviour when the CCM is disconnected from the bus?

The CCM that I have is the 1j0 959 799Q with softcoding 257. According to the text above, this is with memory function. I don't have a seat that supports memory function. So I have to recode the module. Would this be possible when I only hookup the CCM, the drivers door and the passengers door to the bus and then recode using VAGcom? I think I should not hook the rear windows too, since the 257 is for 2 windows only.

Thanks for your answers.

Bernd

 

[berndh]

Two basic questions to see if I did all things right, are:

In a normal good functioning car, do the windows still work when I disconnect the CCM from the Bus??

And does the lock/unlock still work?

Thanks
Bernd

 

[madelgado]

Hello, the sympthoms that you are talking about may be caused for a different can-bus version of the power window motors and the CCM. Your CCM is 1J0, right? then power window modules should be also 1J0 prefix (this will indicate can-bus with static speed).

If the power windows begin with 1CX, then you need to get a CCM with prefix 1C0... for a golf it should be 1C0 959 799 B (maybe others will fit).

If you have K line, then try to connect with vag-com to the CCM to check for errors. Those will help as well. Cheers!

 

[berndh]

Assume that I have a 1c0 combined with a 1j0 in one of the doors. Does the unlock/lock mechanism work? In my case it does for a short period. I have indeed the 1j0 prefix for CCM, 1j0 959 799Q and the 1j0 959 799AH. How can I see if the controllers in the doors are with the same prefix, since the labeling of the window mechanism are not on the panels anymore.

Will try to hookup the CCM tonight and see if I can readout the error codes.

Thanks
bernd

 

[berndh]

I found out that i have indeed the 1c window motors and a 1j CCM. So according to the text above that will not work.

So I have two options, either replace all four window motors or replace the CCM with a 1c. But I read somewhere that when you use the 1c CCM you need support of the comfort CAN BUS in your tacho. I have tacho that supports CAN but not the Comfort Can Bus. I have a 1j0 920 801E tacho. According to other I need at least a 1j0 920 8x6 tacho. The D86s signal comes now through the can bus from the Tacho and not directly from the ignition.

If someone has a better idea please let me know, since my girlfriend start to complain that she can't open the windows during our vacation.

Thanks
Bernd

 

[madelgado]

I found out that i have indeed the 1c window motors and a 1j CCM. So according to the text above that will not work.

So I have two options, either replace all four window motors or replace the CCM with a 1c. But I read somewhere that when you use the 1c CCM you need support of the comfort CAN BUS in your tacho. I have tacho that supports CAN but not the Comfort Can Bus. I have a 1j0 920 801E tacho. According to other I need at least a 1j0 920 8x6 tacho. The D86s signal comes now through the can bus from the Tacho and not directly from the ignition.

If someone has a better idea please let me know, since my girlfriend start to complain that she can't open the windows during our vacation.

Thanks
Bernd

Hi, the connection between the comfort and the tacho is optional. 1C0 CCMs do still have the driver's door signal via spare wire (not can-bus), more precisely at pin T23/1. My car, for instance (passat 3BG 2001, with 1C0 CCM) has both lines wired between the tacho and the CCM... the can-bus is dominant over the spare driver's door signal...

The CLIMATRONIC, PARKTRONIC, SolarRoof, MFD or MultiFunctional Steering Wheel are other components that may relay on the can-bus version... you may have CLIMATRONIC (very common to have).

If I were you, now that you have 1C0 door panels, I would find a 1C0 CCM and (optionally) a dynamic can-bus enabled CLIMATRONIC (which is thinner than the static can-bus). So in the event that you can upgrade the tacho to a FIS (full pixel display), you will be able to watch a picture of the car with the open doors (only available on dynamic, 1C0, can-bus cars).

The pinout of the 1C0 and 1J0 CCMs vary, so you will have to re-wire the connectors (but not the wiring of the rest of the car, which is pretty identical... only some differences at driver's door)

Hope this helps! Good luck!

 

[berndh]

Thanks again for your answer. I went through the electrical schematics for the 1C0 CCM and did not find the D86 signal that comes from the ignition. Indeed the drivers door signal is located on pin T23/1. The older 1j0 and my older 1c0 962 258 does have this D86s signal on one of the pins. Do you think I need this signal?

Thanks
Bernd

 

[berndh]

I had to install the wires myself. In an older golf with canbus, the canbus cables from all the doors came together to one point and there a cable goes to the CCM. Is this also applicable for the 1c0 CCMs? Since this is not a bus topology, but more a star topology.

Thanks
Bernd

 

[madelgado]

Thanks again for your answer. I went through the electrical schematics for the 1C0 CCM and did not find the D86 signal that comes from the ignition. Indeed the drivers door signal is located on pin T23/1. The older 1j0 and my older 1c0 962 258 does have this D86s signal on one of the pins. Do you think I need this signal?

Thanks
Bernd

Hello again... yes, you need this signal... it signals the CCM when you "release" the key out from ignition. The wire starts at the ignition and goes to some places: radio (pin T8/4), tacho (blue connector pin T32/30) and CCM (pin T23/17).

About the can-bus connection, it is a star network... somewhere under the carpet (in my passat), there is a big union... your car may have this in the instrument cluster wiring, since the CCM in your car is not under the carpet, but under the steering wheel, over the relays panel.

Hope this helps!

 

[berndh]

Hello again... yes, you need this signal... it signals the CCM when you "release" the key out from ignition. The wire starts at the ignition and goes to some places: radio (pin T8/4), tacho (blue connector pin T32/30) and CCM (pin T23/17).

About the can-bus connection, it is a star network... somewhere under the carpet (in my passat), there is a big union... your car may have this in the instrument cluster wiring, since the CCM in your car is not under the carpet, but under the steering wheel, over the relays panel.

Hope this helps!

I had to create the canbus myself. So I installed the cables into the little connectors in the pillar A and B and routed them to somewhere around the relay panel. There every door comes together. And goes then to the CCM.

Btw, I don't have the climatronic, neither memory function for my seats. I do have new installed electric mirrors. Hopefully somehwere in the future I will install the SE tacho with FIS.

You really help me with this problem. I hope to get this fixed soon.

 

[madelgado]

I had to create the canbus myself. So I installed the cables into the little connectors in the pillar A and B and routed them to somewhere around the relay panel. There every door comes together. And goes then to the CCM.

You really help me with this problem. I hope to get this fixed soon.

You should be able to find 1C0 ccm in eBay... I hope that German sellers treat you better than what they do with Spanish... in the last months they charge for shipping costs like crazy (two or three times the real cost) I don't use eBay any more :-(

 

[madelgado]

As we have spoken over the PMs, here you have my Passat 2001 (> October 2000) comfort wiring diagram. This is 1C0 799 959 A/B, although any trailing letter may fit and be reconfigurable to work for your car. The best is to find out which is the stock CCM for your model (ask the dealer for instance) and look for it. Between your car (Golf) and mine (Passat) only the trunk may should differ.





















(to be continued...)

 

[madelgado]

... continuation















Hope this helps!

 

[madelgado]

Forgot to mention that the diagram is in Spanish... just ask any doubt (although I hope that it will be still useful). Do not have (and cannot find) the version in English. Component, connectors and signals notation are kept among languages.

 

[berndh]

Hello

After I've seen yours I went to search for the english version. I found it aswell. there are not much differences. I found only the bootlid a little different and I see that don't have the crash-signal anymore that comes from the airbag control unit J234. In the >2003 golfs this signal is also missing and I guess that this signal now comes through the can bus from the tacho. I guess I should not close the doors when I'm dring (anti-carjack) otherwise the doors will not automatically open when I crash..

One quick question: It turns out that you really need the CCM in the bus, otherwise none of the windows work. Correct? Does the CCM free the bus when you put the key in the ignition? Or does the CCM sends messages to all the modules to give the bus free for operation. I know that when you open a door to step out of the car the windows stop functioning aswell. You need to put in the key again and then you can roll up the windows, from the switches. You still can roll up/down the windows through the comfortclose, using the key in the lock, or keep the remote close/open key pressed for a period.

I just would like to know that when I buy the right CCM somewhere that everything works after that and I don't have to spend any more money... So is the things that I experience indeed the right when I did not have the right CCM installed or no CCM installed.

Thanks
Bernd

 

[berndh]

Ok, I hooked up the 1c0 ccm. Still the windows do not work. When I use the key in the right door the windows open/close (all) when I move the key to the open/close position (comfortclosing) and all the doors except the drivers door open and close. So the central locking does work for all the doors except the drivers door. Also the SAFE led start to blink when I close the car using the passenger door. When I use the key in the drivers door nothing happens. The buttons in the drivers door do not work to open the windows. The close/open central locking does work from the buttons. ALso the buttons in the each door do not work for that window in that door.

Bit by bit I come closer to the end. What I think now is that the left doorlock is not working properly. It does not open up the whole car only that door. The SAFE Led keeps on blinking, so the CCM does not recognize that the door was opened. Also when opening the drivers door the interior light does not work. When I open the passengers door, the interior lights go on.

And I still can't get into controller 46 to read out errors.

Every help is welcome.
Bernd

 

[madelgado]

Ok, I hooked up the 1c0 ccm. Still the windows do not work. When I use the key in the right door the windows open/close (all) when I move the key to the open/close position (comfortclosing) and all the doors except the drivers door open and close. So the central locking does work for all the doors except the drivers door. Also the SAFE led start to blink when I close the car using the passenger door. When I use the key in the drivers door nothing happens. The buttons in the drivers door do not work to open the windows. The close/open central locking does work from the buttons. ALso the buttons in the each door do not work for that window in that door.

Bit by bit I come closer to the end. What I think now is that the left doorlock is not working properly. It does not open up the whole car only that door. The SAFE Led keeps on blinking, so the CCM does not recognize that the door was opened. Also when opening the drivers door the interior light does not work. When I open the passengers door, the interior lights go on.

And I still can't get into controller 46 to read out errors.

Every help is welcome.
Bernd

Hello, I tink that your setup is in a good point. I will summarize the key points that I can understand from your post:

- Windows roll up and down when you hold the key pressed in your passenger's door for open or close. This means that main power (the 2,5 mm. red wire has power) for all doors (including driver's door).

- Still in the right door, if you use the key to unlock/lock the car, all doors (I understand 4 + trunk) but the driver's door work fine. This indicates something meaningful: the comfort network seems to work fine (including driver's door) but the connection between the driver's door power window controller and the lock is not working (I would verify that the 6 pin connector in the lock is properly attached and you did not forget to plug-it or any other reason... like the ground wire broken. The ground signal is common to all functions).

- Windows only roll up/down by using the key in the right door... but not:
+ by using the master switch in driver's door
+ or by using each individual button in each door for its window.

Hmmm, this last point I just can think that the "ignition on" message is not getting from the CCM to the power window controllers... maybe just missing this signal in the CCM (This would also explain why you cannot connect through the diagnostic port). The power signals in this CCM are:

* T23/5: D/15 (black solid wire in the fuses box, or your old CCM)
* T23/17: D86S (the red wire that is powered while the key is in the ignition)
* T23/22: Permanent +12 (30 signal, to the screws in the relays panel)

I have realized that T23/5 is not in the wiring diagram in my passat... hmmm... but it is there definitely... check if that T23/5 pin is missing... if it is, find D15 signal in the remaining wires from your old module or take it from the fuses box (black wire).

Hope this helps! Keep us informed about your progress.

 

[berndh]

WOW YOU ROCK !!!!!

Thanks for your super help. I really would not have made it without your help. I will try to hookup the D15 signal to pin T23/5 from my old CCM T24/20. That will probably solve the issue that I cannot use the individual buttons in each door.

And I also would have guessed that my lock is not working properly. Therefor I need to take out the window mechanism again and see if it is fitted. But first I will measure the signals on the other (passenger) side door to see if I see different behaviour on the pinning.

Again thanks a lot again. Will follow up tonight with my findings

Bernd

Hello, I tink that your setup is in a good point. I will summarize the key points that I can understand from your post:

- Windows roll up and down when you hold the key pressed in your passenger's door for open or close. This means that main power (the 2,5 mm. red wire has power) for all doors (including driver's door).

- Still in the right door, if you use the key to unlock/lock the car, all doors (I understand 4 + trunk) but the driver's door work fine. This indicates something meaningful: the comfort network seems to work fine (including driver's door) but the connection between the driver's door power window controller and the lock is not working (I would verify that the 6 pin connector in the lock is properly attached and you did not forget to plug-it or any other reason... like the ground wire broken. The ground signal is common to all functions).

- Windows only roll up/down by using the key in the right door... but not:
+ by using the master switch in driver's door
+ or by using each individual button in each door for its window.

Hmmm, this last point I just can think that the "ignition on" message is not getting from the CCM to the power window controllers... maybe just missing this signal in the CCM (This would also explain why you cannot connect through the diagnostic port). The power signals in this CCM are:

* T23/5: D/15 (black solid wire in the fuses box, or your old CCM)
* T23/17: D86S (the red wire that is powered while the key is in the ignition)
* T23/22: Permanent +12 (30 signal, to the screws in the relays panel)

I have realized that T23/5 is not in the wiring diagram in my passat... hmmm... but it is there definitely... check if that T23/5 pin is missing... if it is, find D15 signal in the remaining wires from your old module or take it from the fuses box (black wire).

Hope this helps! Keep us informed about your progress.

 

[berndh]

JEEEEEEHAAAA. The windows work !!!!!


The D15 signal was the key to the solution. THANKS.

What I observed now was the following:

1) Windows can be operated by each individual button and from the drivers side door.
2) For the two front windows pressing the button in the drivers door fully down, should bring the window up/down automatically. That still does not work.
3) Still the lock issue. Will work on that saturday. Need some time to do that.
4) Still the interior lights are on all the time, this is because the contact switch in the doors (unfortunately both) are not making good contact. The one in the drivers door is not functioning because of the lock not working. Will follow up on that.
5) I could donwload the error for controller 46. Here is the download:

VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N
Control Module Part Number: 1C0 959 799 B
Component and/or Version: 1C Komfortgerát HLO 0003
Software Coding: 00259
Work Shop Code: WSC 00046
Additional Info: 1C1959801A 8M Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0009
Additional Info: 1C1959802A 1C Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0009
Additional Info: 1C0959811A 8M Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0009
Additional Info: 1C0959812A 1C Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0202
6 Faults Found:
01362 - Close Switch for Tailgate/Trunk (F124)
29-00 - Short to Ground
01131 - Control Circuit for Turn Signals
25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition
01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533)
49-00 - No Communications
00953 - Interior Light Time limit
25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition
00947 - Trunk Lid remote Control Switch (E188)
29-00 - Short to Ground
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition

I have not an alarm horn installed so I guess the last error comes from that. Also the interior ligth time is because of the contact switch. J533 no communication is because there is no J533 responding to the CAN. I simply do not have comfort Can supported Tacho. Control circuit for turn signals I don't know. I have not connected the turn signals yet. But I will in the future. And I did not have T23/10 conncected yet to the trunk contact switch. So all these errors are explainable. WHen I finally hookup the CCM to the wires I will fix all the issues above.

Is there a way to get rid of the J533 error message?

Once more thanks to Madelgado. You really helped me here.

Grtz,
Bernd

PS: where exactly did you find the D15 should be pin T23/5?? I'm just curious.

 

[berndh]

These are all the connections that I create (new) and the ones that I reused from the two T23/T24 connectors that were in my car. I made a littel cable that converts the Two T23/T24 to one T23 and that one goes into the new CCM.

Are you missing signals? the pins 4, 7, and 19 are not connected/empty. Pin no 2 has a label but there is no pin in the T24/22 (empyt). I guess it is not supported for my car. I don't have a sunroof so these pins are blank in my conversion cable too.

Grtz,
Bernd

 

[madelgado]

Hi there, CONGRATULATIONS!

I see you are happier now ;-)

Let's do the fine tunning of your setup:

- Turn signals: it is fairly easy to get rid of that... just place a new wire from - 30 - nuts to pin T15/13 (permanent +12 Volts), using an aereal fuse of 15 Amps. in the middle of the wire. With that the error will go away. If you want also to finish the blinkers, run another two wires from T15/14 and T15/15 to the blinker wires of the car (that you can find under the plastic under the release-hood handle). The wires are black-white and black-green. Or if it is easier, attach those signals directly to the blinkers switch near the steering wheel (same colors).

- Alarm horn: it is more or less the same issue than with blinkers... run a new wire with a 15 amps fuse in the middle, from - 30 - nuts to T15/12, so that the CCM has power and can operate the relay. No need to run the horn wire yet... although if you want, you can place there another wire from T15/11 to the hood (together with another wire to ground) so that you let these two wires ready to connect the horn in the future.

- About the CCM-TACHO connection, I would run the wiring (twisted pair) from your main joint to the tacho (green connector, pins 8 and 9 - high and low respectively). You have nothing to loose... Anyway I don't know how you have this error... since I have a CCM here at home with just +12, gnd and K line (no tacho) and I do not have that error... I will think about it... just let it be by now. Maybe after you reset all errors you will not have it again...

- The trunk wiring you need to fix it ... I recommend that you disconnect those pins from the CCM connector until you finish your set-up, or that will be causing problems (like short to ground failures).

Also, the trunk may require that you change some internal bits in your CCM, since 1C0 959 799 B is used by Golf/Passat/Bora... and each of them has different wiring for the trunk. Are you familiar with VDS-PRO? If not, read about it, download the SW and read 4350, 4360 and 4370 addresses writing down the 10 decimal values that you get out of it for each read operation.

Ahhh, and I realized about the T25/5 wire because I bought a CCM with the connectors and I have it here with me, and I saw that I have those three pins connected to the +12 of my power supply. In that connector, pins 2, 4, 7, 8, 12 and 13 are free (that CCM comes from Seat Leon 2002).

Again, hope that this helps! Cheers!

 

[berndh]

Hi there

-) Any idea what pin T23/19 function is? I have this not connected to anything? The only signal that I miss is the crash signal that comes from J234 (airbag control unit). Don't know the color at this moment. This wire would open the doors when the anticarjack is enabled when I crash.

I will work on getting rid of the errors for the ATA. The only thing I need now is an original remote key. In that case I can use the T15 connector too and make use of it.

Will let you know about the results. Tonight I will build in the CCM cable T23/T24 ==> T23 and finally hookup the CCM. From tonight my windows will work. Thanks to you. Can't stress too much how happy I am with your help.

-) Any idea why my mirrors don't work? I installed two electric and heated mirrors. But when I turn the ignition and the control knop, nothing happens. Am I correct that the steering of the position of the mirrors is done by the can controller and the power for moving the mirrir is the same Red/White and Red/Yellow and Brown as for the controller? No need for an additional power cable. Could this also be a firmware setting?

-) Any idea why the full down pressing of the button in the drivers door to fully open the windows does not work? Do I have to program the fully open and fully closed position first? Where can I find such procedure? Any idea?
Still need to have a look at the drivers doorlock.

Cheers.
Bernd

 

[madelgado]

Hi there

-) Any idea what pin T23/19 function is? I have this not connected to anything? The only signal that I miss is the crash signal that comes from J234 (airbag control unit). Don't know the color at this moment. This wire would open the doors when the anticarjack is enabled when I crash.

By mixing wiring diagrams from seat leon and my passat (the only ones that I have) I suspect that if the CCM is connected to the can-bus in the tacho, it does not need the crash signal. So, in your case, you would need to run a wire from T23/19 to T75/72 (75 pins connector of the J234 module).

I will work on getting rid of the errors for the ATA. The only thing I need now is an original remote key. In that case I can use the T15 connector too and make use of it.

I understand that you need it for the antenna... your remote will work in a 5 meters range even if you do not have antenna wired to the A pillar driver's side.

Will let you know about the results. Tonight I will build in the CCM cable T23/T24 ==> T23 and finally hookup the CCM. From tonight my windows will work. Thanks to you. Can't stress too much how happy I am with your help.

-) Any idea why my mirrors don't work? I installed two electric and heated mirrors. But when I turn the ignition and the control knop, nothing happens. Am I correct that the steering of the position of the mirrors is done by the can controller and the power for moving the mirrir is the same Red/White and Red/Yellow and Brown as for the controller? No need for an additional power cable. Could this also be a firmware setting?

uhhhh I see that you want it all Ok, just with ignition ON mirrors should work, since the messages go internally for driver's mirror and through can-bus for passenger's mirror. Maybe until you do not fix the driver's lock it will not work... don't know, but they should.

Heating is a different story, since you need to run these wires:

IF YOUR MIRROR JOYSTICK HAS THE DEFROST POSITION:
- a wire must go from D15 (ignition) to the mirror master switch (pin T10/7)
- another wire must go from T10/9 (same connector) to the CCM, pin T23/16.

IF YOUR MIRROR JOYSTICK DOES NOT HAVE DEFROST POSTION:
- run directly a wire from the rear window defrost switch (white thick 2,5mm. wire) to the CCM, pin T23/16.

The CCM will send the signal to the mirrors to start heating.

-) Any idea why the full down pressing of the button in the drivers door to fully open the windows does not work? Do I have to program the fully open and fully closed position first? Where can I find such procedure? Any idea?

This one sorry, that I forgot before... and this is (sorry) a stupid thing. Whenever you remove the battery or disconnect one of the power window motors, it disables the auto roll-up/down of the windows.

Just press auto-down and keep pressing until the window gets fully open... still hold pressing for about 5 more seconds... release the button and you will have the auto-down enabled. Now press auto-up and hold until the window gets fully closed... wait a few more seconds and try the auto. Do this for each of the front windows.

Still need to have a look at the drivers doorlock.

Cheers.
Bernd

 

[berndh]

By mixing wiring diagrams from seat leon and my passat (the only ones that I have) I suspect that if the CCM is connected to the can-bus in the tacho, it does not need the crash signal. So, in your case, you would need to run a wire from T23/19 to T75/72 (75 pins connector of the J234 module).

Do you know if T23/19 is the rigth pin for the crashsignal? I was just guessing that T23/19 should be the one because the others were not used in your connector also. It is a delicate thing to hookup that signal, since I don't want my airbags to pop. So I better know for sure that T23/19 is the one. I have the crash signal in one of the T23/T24 connectors that I had with central locking only. The color is lila/white. Is pin T23/19 in your CCM with connector this color?

I understand that you need it for the antenna... your remote will work in a 5 meters range even if you do not have antenna wired to the A pillar driver's side.

OK, still need the key with right frequency? Is that the 434 Mhz version? Since I also heard about other original keys with other frequencies. Is the 1c0 CCM the one that supports the key that flaps in and out? Or is this also the "tear" shaped addition to your keys, which were common on the earlier versions of the Golf.

uhhhh I see that you want it all Ok, just with ignition ON mirrors should work, since the messages go internally for driver's mirror and through can-bus for passenger's mirror. Maybe until you do not fix
the driver's lock it will not work... don't know, but they should.

I hear the doorlock connector move when I quicly move the drivers door. The connector hits to the inner side of the door. So I might be "lucky" that it is only the connector, but I still have to remove the full window mechanisme. I went through the schematics and found that the ground for the heaters is the same as the ground for the lock. So you are right about first fixing the lock and most likely the mirrors start working also.

Heating is a different story, since you need to run these wires:

IF YOUR MIRROR JOYSTICK HAS THE DEFROST POSITION:
- a wire must go from D15 (ignition) to the mirror master switch (pin T10/7)
- another wire must go from T10/9 (same connector) to the CCM, pin T23/16.

IF YOUR MIRROR JOYSTICK DOES NOT HAVE DEFROST POSTION:
- run directly a wire from the rear window defrost switch (white thick 2,5mm. wire) to the CCM, pin T23/16.

The CCM will send the signal to the mirrors to start heating.

Yes, I need to create a cable that comes from the rear window heater button to the CCM. Still need to do that. Since I will be on vacation next week, I will move that activity to after my vacation. I also need to create a cable from the lightning control to the driver side buttons. Otherwise they will not illuminate in the dark.

This one sorry, that I forgot before... and this is (sorry) a stupid thing. Whenever you remove the battery or disconnect one of the power window motors, it disables the auto roll-up/down of the windows.

Just press auto-down and keep pressing until the window gets fully open... still hold pressing for about 5 more seconds... release the button and you will have the auto-down enabled. Now press auto-up and hold until the window gets fully closed... wait a few more seconds and try the auto. Do this for each of the front windows.

I think I tried this before, but I will try again and follow your procedure.

Thanks again for all your help.

Bernd

 

[berndh]

Hi there, CONGRATULATIONS!

I see you are happier now ;-)

Let's do the fine tunning of your setup:

- Turn signals: it is fairly easy to get rid of that... just place a new wire from - 30 - nuts to pin T15/13 (permanent +12 Volts), using an aereal fuse of 15 Amps. in the middle of the wire. With that the error will go away. If you want also to finish the blinkers, run another two wires from T15/14 and T15/15 to the blinker wires of the car (that you can find under the plastic under the release-hood handle). The wires are black-white and black-green. Or if it is easier, attach those signals directly to the blinkers switch near the steering wheel (same colors).

- Alarm horn: it is more or less the same issue than with blinkers... run a new wire with a 15 amps fuse in the middle, from - 30 - nuts to T15/12, so that the CCM has power and can operate the relay. No need to run the horn wire yet... although if you want, you can place there another wire from T15/11 to the hood (together with another wire to ground) so that you let these two wires ready to connect the horn in the future.

Ok, that make sense. Will create these cables and use two new fuses for this. I see that when you don't force a alarm or don't need the blinkers (I don't have a key) then these errors will not popup in the logs. They only popup when I did a output test for the 46 controller that trips the alarm and the blinkers. and then put the errors in the log. But I will make this for the future, you'll never know...

- About the CCM-TACHO connection, I would run the wiring (twisted pair) from your main joint to the tacho (green connector, pins 8 and 9 - high and low respectively). You have nothing to loose... Anyway I don't know how you have this error... since I have a CCM here at home with just +12, gnd and K line (no tacho) and I do not have that error... I will think about it... just let it be by now. Maybe after you reset all errors you will not have it again...

OK, will do that after my vacation. I don't think it is harmful, is it?

- The trunk wiring you need to fix it ... I recommend that you disconnect those pins from the CCM connector until you finish your set-up, or that will be causing problems (like short to ground failures).

Is this harmful to the CCM when I keep the wires connected?

Also, the trunk may require that you change some internal bits in your CCM, since 1C0 959 799 B is used by Golf/Passat/Bora... and each of them has different wiring for the trunk. Are you familiar with VDS-PRO? If not, read about it, download the SW and read 4350, 4360 and 4370 addresses writing down the 10 decimal values that you get out of it for each read operation.

I know the program, but I'm not familiar with it. Unfortunately I don't have a laptop that support a 'real' serial port and I do have a USB VAGCom cable. I could get a laptop with a serial port, but then I need the cable. Do you know if VDSpro is also usable with the USB version ?

Ahhh, and I realized about the T23/5 wire because I bought a CCM with the connectors and I have it here with me, and I saw that I have those three pins connected to the +12 of my power supply. In that connector, pins 2, 4, 7, 8, 12 and 13 are free (that CCM comes from Seat Leon 2002).

Again, hope that this helps! Cheers!

Cheers,
Bernd


PS: SOrry to bother you all the time with my questions