Cold Starting? Not really...

j2ptupy

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Location
MS
TDI
1999 Golf
Over the past couple of months it has been getting increasingly harder to start my Golf. First, the problem started with longer cranking times, to then taking a few 20 second cranks to get it started, to then taking 5-10 minutes of 20 second cranks. This week I haven't been able to get it started at all. Before, when I could it started, I had no problems once it was running. Even restarting the car once driving it for a while. The only thing I can think is that the outside temperature is getting colder, but its still not that cold, relatively. We are talking south MS, where the lowest it has been this week is maybe 29 F at night.

This is a 1999.5 Golf, starting on regular diesel, checked the battery and anti-shutter valve. I have looked over the How-To's and search the TDI club, can't really find something exactly like my problem. Could this be a timing issue? Thanks in advance.
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
How's your cranking speed? How's the compression? And yeah, the timing could have a lot to do with it. Check the actual cam, crank, and IP position with the cam lock, IP lock pin in place and see where the flywheel mark is.
 

j2ptupy

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Location
MS
TDI
1999 Golf
The cranking speed and compression are fine. Going to check the timing belt today.

I know that it requires 3000 rpms to start up, does it show on the dash? If so, mine is below 1000 rpms when cranking. This is not a VW battery, I got it from a auto parts store.

Thanks
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
I know some have claimed that a minimum cranking speed is required before fuel injection will start, but I don't know if that's the case.

For timing, the IP tries to advance the onset of injection for cold. For the advance solenoid to work, some fuel pressure internal to the injection pump is required. So, if the mechanical timing is retarded, then a lot of advance is required, and more cranking will be needed to develop the case pressure to get that done.

In the meantime, fuel is getting injected too late (into a cold chamber) to ignite, and if it finally does start, there is a cloud of whiteish smoke to fumigate the neighborhood.

When I first acquired it, my 2-dr was a stubborn starter, and in moderate temps. It needed the timing reset (among other things it did and some things it still needs).
 

j2ptupy

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Location
MS
TDI
1999 Golf
Timing belt and components are fine. Had a guru take a look, he found the problem, there seems to be a fuel problem. We actually got it start after cracking the fuel line to the #2 injector. It seems to be isolated it to either the "T' or the fuel pump. I will replace the T, pin and O rings, plus the fuel filter. If that doesn't remedy it, then I will start reading up on failing fuel pump symptoms.
 

j2ptupy

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Location
MS
TDI
1999 Golf
An update: replaced fuel filter, "T", O Rings, and the mickey mouse clip, still did nothing to help starting. I had previously checked the fuel shutoff solenoid and found 12 volts when trying to crank, but read something on here about the plunger in the valve getting stuck. So I unscrewed the solenoid and found that the plunger was stuck. So I am thinking this was the problem, I ordered new one plus an o ring. My question now is can I run the car by removing the plunger until I get the new solenoid and o ring?
 

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.
An update: replaced fuel filter, "T", O Rings, and the mickey mouse clip, still did nothing to help starting. I had previously checked the fuel shutoff solenoid and found 12 volts when trying to crank, but read something on here about the plunger in the valve getting stuck. So I unscrewed the solenoid and found that the plunger was stuck. So I am thinking this was the problem, I ordered new one plus an o ring. My question now is can I run the car by removing the plunger until I get the new solenoid and o ring?
You can run without the Selenoid. I did. But you will likely get a Fault Code/CEL.
 

j2ptupy

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Location
MS
TDI
1999 Golf
I replaced the solenoid completely, with a new o ring, it still is not starting. Not really sure where to go next, anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance
 

RECCE-17

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Location
Pembroke, Ontario, Canada
TDI
current 2011 Jetta,(ret)01' Jetta TDI (ret) 92' Golf Diesel
I used to have the same issue with my Mk2 Golf diesel. I never did figure it out because my wife made me sell it for a "more adult car"

Please let us know how you make out I would like to know

Good luck
 

j2ptupy

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Location
MS
TDI
1999 Golf
I think I got this figured out. Air built up in the fuel system from changing the fuel filter and tee plus replacing the fuel shut off solenoid was what was causing the hard starting after the repair. I vaced the fuel lines, plus bled the #3 injector and this helped. Starting has been getting better. So I think the original problem was from a small air leak at the tee, compounded by a sticking fuel shutoff solenoid valve. The problem did not vanish when I repaired the situation because there was still 6 months of air built up in the fuel lines. Is there any way to get all of the air out right away? Should I bleed the fuel lines every time I start-up until cranking returns to normal? By the way, you can buy a replacement "O" ring from ID parts for a few bucks, instead of spending more on an entire new solenoid, that is if yours is still working like mine was.
 

jettawreck

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Location
Northern Minnesota-55744
TDI
2001 Jetta and 2003 Jetta
I think I got this figured out. Air built up in the fuel system from changing the fuel filter and tee plus replacing the fuel shut off solenoid was what was causing the hard starting after the repair. I vaced the fuel lines, plus bled the #3 injector and this helped. Starting has been getting better. So I think the original problem was from a small air leak at the tee, compounded by a sticking fuel shutoff solenoid valve. The problem did not vanish when I repaired the situation because there was still 6 months of air built up in the fuel lines. Is there any way to get all of the air out right away? Should I bleed the fuel lines every time I start-up until cranking returns to normal? By the way, you can buy a replacement "O" ring from ID parts for a few bucks, instead of spending more on an entire new solenoid, that is if yours is still working like mine was.
If you don't have any "current" air leaks all air should disappear within a few minutes of running. They recirculate a lot of fuel fairly quickly. You don't build up months worth of air in the lines/filter. you do introduce a lot of air into the system when changing filter, etc. even if you prefill the filter.
I had a very small air leak for a while after putting on the CAT fuel filter setup. The "T" fiiting o-rings were new and still leaked just enough air when shut off to pull fuel back from the IP. Some real heavy wheel bearing type grease on the o-rings has sealed them and I think after a while they swell to fit better if not taken in and out over time.
 
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