Clutch won't engage- can't figure it out

[Tdijarhead]

It really helps to remove that passenger side axle flange.

The first time I did one I eased it down onto my chest and then slid it onto the floor. Putting it back in was a reversal, I pushed it into place and my youngest daughter put the first bolt into the transmission bell housing. I use an engine support bar now to lift, lower and adjust the position.

 

[xrdan]

I went with the vr6 clutch and solid flywheel- the feel is lighter than stock and I don't feel any difference in rattling or vibration as far as the flywheel goes. I replaced the engine main seal, inner cv boots, pads and rotors while it was apart. Went with Pennzoil synchromesh fluid and it shifts better than ever. Remove the flanges and use an engine support for an easier job.

 

[Zak99b5]

I'd check those flanges for leaking after a few miles. I pulled & reinstalled the right flange when doing my clutch, then lafter clutch break-in I noticed gear oil leaking out of it. Replaced the seal, now all is good.

 

[xrdan]

I will. I'm coming up on an oil change and I'll check everything over when I have the splash pan off

 

[BobnOH]

To summarize-The issue was wore out clutch?

 

[agent_jwa]

To summarize-The issue was wore out clutch?

I think the splines on the clutch disk totally stripped out, but the input shaft was still perfectly fine. Weird failure I've never seen that before.

 

[xrdan]

The splines on the clutch disk were gone but the transmission shaft was fine. It was factory as far as I could tell at 150k mi. I wasn't really thinking that was it- in my internet searching when this happened I didn't see this anywhere

 

[BobnOH]

Clutches can fail in a miriad of ways. Once bought a brand new '81 F150, pressure plate literally exploded at like 7,000 miles.
A factory clutch can easily go 300k miles + baring any malfunction.