clutch pedal not returning

Fblokland

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Location
Chicago, USA
TDI
Passat wagon, 2005, silver
Hi,
I've got a 97 Passat TDI wagon. About a month ago the clutch pedal would sometimes get stuck about 3/4 way down. The clutch would still disengage, I would pull the pedal up with my foot, and I was back in business. This happened a couple of times, but then stopped. Everything was fine for a week or so, when suddenly today not only does the clutch pedal bind, but it actually gets sucked as far as it will go to the floor, when I press it in about, say, 3/4 of the way. And the clutch no longer disengages. Does this make any sense? I probably need a new clutch master cylinder, right? In which case, how does one go about getting the special unlocking tool 3318 (section P30-13 in the manual)?
I live in the Chicago area, northwest, close to Crystal Lake.
Any comments are welcome!
Greetings
Frans
 

jck66

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 4, 2001
Location
Greenwich, CT, USA
TDI
12 Passat SE / 14 BMW 535d
Frans,
I know this exact topic has come up in the past, but I cannot remember the solution. Have you tried searching? It's here somewhere...
 

RC

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 13, 2000
Location
Maryland`s Eastern Shore
TDI
Two White 96 B4 Wagons
This is happening on one of our B4s also. The mechanic said it could be either the master or slave cylinder. I wanna get it fixed before it doesn`t work at all, like yours.
 

J

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2000
Location
VA, USA
TDI
'12 passat tdi.... my 6th TDi!! a4, a3, b4, a5, my b7 and wife has a '11 JSW.. :)
Same thing happens to me! 2 month old 97 tdi, just pull it up w/ foot and keep gettin' it! Whats the fix?
Thanks,
Josh
 

GoFaster

Moderator at Large
Joined
Jun 16, 1999
Location
Brampton, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
Been there ... I've broken and fixed that :)

Take off the trim panel on the underside of the instrument panel, the trim panel that covers up all the pedal linkage. Do whatever contortions are necessary to stick your nose underneath the dashboard. Look up at the clutch pedal and where the push-rod comes through the firewall.

There is a white clip attached to the end of the clutch push-rod. This clip is supposed to sit inside a welded pocket on the side of the clutch pedal. I betcha the teeny little spot-weld that holds that pocket in place has broken, and the white piece has pushed right through the pocket in the pedal along with the push-rod.

To fix it, remove the clutch pedal from the vehicle, and MIG-weld that pocket back in place properly so that it never comes adrift again. The shop manual explains what to do to disassemble and re-assemble, and it is a pain in the tail to deal with the over-center spring - you will have to improvise a little spring compressor in order to do this. It is also really hard to get that white clip off and on the end of the push-rod.
 

BHarrison

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2002
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
TDI
96 & 97 TDI Passat, several Diesel Toyota Trucks...
GoFaster, I am about to go check what you've stated. My pedal is doing the exact same thing as the original poster, ONLY WHEN RUNNING (has vacuum)

The problem has not occurred while just pumping the pedal with the engine off.

Also, changed the slave cylinder, and that made no affect.
 

Big Red

Veteran Member
Joined
May 22, 2000
Location
Newark, DE, USA
Me too

I noticed this one time on my car too. Problem didn't continue so I didn't worry about it. I will have to keep this fix in mind.
 

BHarrison

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2002
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
TDI
96 & 97 TDI Passat, several Diesel Toyota Trucks...
Ok, I was incorrect in my above post. For one, theres not vacuum at the clutch master cylinder. (doh) Also, I can reproduce the problem by holding the clutch at 1/2 way with engine either running, or stopped. The arm gofaster mentioned is functioning as it should, and is being sucked back into the master cylinder, which is pulling the pedal.

The master cylinder has to be the problem for myself, and the original poster.

best price i've found is about $150 at autohausaz.com
 

Big Red

Veteran Member
Joined
May 22, 2000
Location
Newark, DE, USA
Bleed Clutch

If you have not done so, it would be worth a check to bleed the brake system and clutch master cylinder. There is a chance you could have an air bubble in there contributing to the cause.
 

BHarrison

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2002
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
TDI
96 & 97 TDI Passat, several Diesel Toyota Trucks...
Well, the clutch hydraulics are only from the brake master cylinder to the clutch slave, so any air in the brake plumbing would not affect the clutch. Also, I just changed the clutch slave cylinder and bled the system then.

It seems to be an internal leak in the master cylinder.
 

BHarrison

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2002
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
TDI
96 & 97 TDI Passat, several Diesel Toyota Trucks...
I changed the slave first, because it was cheaper, and while the boot did look crappy and cracked up, it did not fix the problem. The master cylinder did the trick. Literally minutes to change, no special tools. Takes longer to bleed the system than anything else.
 

dieselride

Member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
TDI
Jetta, 98, black
It was the master cylinder. It took me a little longer than a few minutes. I had trouble with the bolt on the petal side of bracket. There not a lot of space in there.
 
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