Clutch pedal has no pressure and will not return, transmission will not disengage

[RLBTDI]

Hi All, I have never experienced an issue such as this and am looking to know if anyone else has and if so where to begin looking. My car was running fine and shifting fine. Today I depressed the clutch pedal and it just went right to the floor, no pressure whatsoever, just stayed there. I pulled it back but with almost no effort it will just go back to the floor. Tried to start it but it's in gear and immediately wants to move as soon as I turn the key. I cant get it out of gear to even try starting it as the clutch will not disengage. Any suggestions on where to begin with this? Thank you!

 

[MukGyver]

If the car is on level ground simply move your shifter to the neutral position. Rocking the car forward and backward while you move it to neutral helps. However, if the car is not on flat ground and the e-brake was not applied, there will be a load on the gears making it difficult to do .. and not good for the tranny to be forced.

 

[RLBTDI]

If the car is on level ground simply move your shifter to the neutral position. Rocking the car forward and backward while you move it to neutral helps. However, if the car is not on flat ground and the e-brake was not applied, there will be a load on the gears making it difficult to do .. and not good for the tranny to be forced.

Thank you, that got it into neutral unfortunately the clutch pedal is still not engaging. I can pull it back from the floor and if I push it lightly it just smacks to the floor. There is no resistance in either direction.

 

[Racerman27410]

look for puddles underneath and check the reservoir to see if the fluid level is low. Odds are the throw out bearing/ slave cylinder or the master cylinder has failed.

 

[RLBTDI]

look for puddles underneath and check the reservoir to see if the fluid level is low. Odds are the throw out bearing/ slave cylinder or the master cylinder has failed.

That turned out to be the issue. I was able to replace it however I will note it's a frustrating endeavor! Anyone attempting this would be wise exercise some patience.

 

[jimmyfine]

I had a faulty master cylinder that would occasionally come close to doing that but would allow me to engage/disengage, that was a pain to replace because of the pedal connection to the master cylinder. I am hoping I never have to do the slave cylinder but may do it when I do the clutch here soon.

Which was bad on yours? I am assuming slave?

 

[ihatespeed]

Mine was doing something like it last summer, pedal would stick down and you would have to pull up, I flushed the fluid, out it looked gross green with particulate, (guess 9 years was too long) been great since.

 

[shogun2001]

I am in the process of replacing my clutch master cylinder now. I was trying to be very careful in withdrawing the clip that holds the ball, but it still snapped. I have one on order (plus a spare) that I hope will fit. Connected to the master cylinder is a funky looking component that I cannot find out what it does or if I should replace it too. Here is a picture. I would appreciate any words of wisdom!

Image of part on my facebook page.

 

[shogun2001]

I am sorry I did not introduce myself when I posted my last post. My name is Don Shogren. I live in Connecticut. I bought my first VW in March of 2020. I found a good deal on a 2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI with a 6 speed manual transmission. The car only had 50K miles. I have put 23K on the car so far.

I actually found out the answer to my question. The cylinder shaped component is part of the clutch hydraulic line. I plan to reuse mine. Here is a link to the part:

Clutch Hydraulic Line (CBEA CJAA)

 

[shogun2001]

I created my own rig for bleeding the clutch line from the vent near the Slave cylinder. I use a 60CC syringe with a catheter tip and tigon tubing. I used this to evacuate the line with the old dark and nasty fluid and I also injected clean fluid back into the line after reassembly. This worked like a champ. I believe I will need to bleed the system one more time. My pedal does not feel the same as it did before my clutch master cylinder failed, but I also introduced a lot of air into the system during repair.

I wish there was a convenient access to the bleeder. I realize I could install one. Removing the battery tray and the airbox takes a little time. With practice comes proficiency!

On the overall job of replacing the clutch master cylinder, there are three challenging steps:

1. Removal of the master cylinder from the clutch pedal assembly without breaking the ball retaining clip.
- I was careful and had the tabs released, but in the process of extraction, the clip joint snapped. I ordered four. I now have three spares.

2. Installation of the clutch master cylinder and clip back into the clutch pedal assembly was a challenge to get the angle correct.
- The ball of the master cylinder needs to be fully captured by the clip cavity with a slight pressure against it to ensure capture after clip insertion into the clutch pedal pocket.

3. Installation of the upper nut on the clutch pedal stud after the clutch pedal assembly is inserted through the firewall.
- A challenge for sure!

4. System bleeding.
- My $10.00 apparatus (syringe and tigon tubing) paid dividends. I am returning the $69.00 bleeder pump kit I ordered from Amazon. I never opened it.

Cheers!

Don