Clutch options for 2004 VW Jetta TDI (PD engine BEW)

[jmindito]

Need to replace the clutch for my 2004 VW Jetta TDI (PD engine BEW) 5 speed manual (VIN: WVWSR61J24W151661) and wanted advice on which one should i get. Sincerely appreciate anyone's help to let me know if the following Luk 17-050 clutch kit is compatible?

This is from eBay

For VW Beetle Golf Jetta Audi A3 Std Trans Clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel Kit LuK | eBay

Clutch Disc Spline Quantity: 28. Verify that the item fits your car. A Genuine part is a part in the auto manufacturer's original box with their logo on the box. Pressure Plate Type: Push Type Diaphragm.

www.ebay.com

Clutch Disc Spline Quantity:	28	SKU:	17-050
Clutch Disc Diameter:	8-7/8"	Part Type:	Clutch Kit
Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter:	8-7/8"	Part Number:	17-050
Weight:	15.445 lbs	Superseded Part Number:	038 105 264 J / 038105264J
L x W x H:	34.6075 x 36.5125 x 7.62	Pressure Plate Type:	Push Type Diaphragm
Manufacturer Part Number:	17-050	Interchange Part Number:	600 0155 000 / 6000155000
Other Part Number:	038 105 264 E / 038105264E	Input Shaft Diameter:	7/8"
Brand:	Luk	Kit contents:	Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, all Necessary Pilo

On eBay the Luk 17-050 clutch kit shows as compatible.
This part is compatible with 2004 Volkswagen Jetta TDI Wagon 4-Door 1.9L 1896CC 116Cu. In. l4 DIESEL SOHC Turbocharged.

However, on Amazon.com it show that it does not fit. Also the seller in eBay says it's not a fit. and recommended this instead:

For VW Golf Beetle Jetta 1.9L L4 Standard Clutch Kit Sachs K7031601 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for For VW Golf Beetle Jetta 1.9L L4 Standard Clutch Kit Sachs K7031601 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[KrashDH]

Man what's with clutches lately, is everyone's going? The Luk 17-050 is a goto for a DMF replacement on a stock to lightly tuned vehicle.
I'm in the same boat but with my 02, and I'm having a hard time determining if I want to go with the SB stage 2 Daily or the Sachs VR6/G60 combo.
Sorry not trying to derail your thread. I would look into all the trusted vendors around here, IDParts, Cascade German, etc. You'll get good service as well as there will be no question what you buy from them will be correct.

 

[PakProtector]

The 17-050 is a replacement for either an ALH or BEW. Unit assy, DMF flywheel and very reasonable price. Ease of install a plus 'cause it is ready to bolt onto the crankshaft w/o having to center the disc between flywheel and pressure plate. I have used two of these so far, and find them a pleasantly smooth clutch. That said, I took the opportunity to acquire a G60/VR6 Sachs set up for when my BEW needs its first clutch( a NIB set from a member on the classifieds at a solid discount over the usual retail outlets).
cheers,
Douglas

 

[blueboy7]

Contact Malone Tuning Just in case you add a tune.

 

[Genesis]

I have one sitting on my shelf.

They're a nice replacement provided you're not jacked up too much. OE feel, nice clutch. Have put a couple in. No complaints, provided it will hold whatever you have done or intend to do.

 

[KrashDH]

I bit the bullet today, South Bend Stage 2, Daily. Should hold what I want to throw at it in the future. I'm not worried about clutch manners... Have a Cummins 2500 with a South Bend DD3250. That thing will take your teeth out if you don't drive it correctly

 

[PakProtector]

I bit the bullet today, South Bend Stage 2, Daily. Should hold what I want to throw at it in the future. I'm not worried about clutch manners... Have a Cummins 2500 with a South Bend DD3250. That thing will take your teeth out if you don't drive it correctly

When I got mine it had 4.11 in the pumpkin and a 5-puck metallic clutch disc. A hard launch in 3rd was the only smooth way to get underway. That pup is long gone, and an 05-101 from an HO 600 is living comfortably in its place. With your 2500 designation, you are running at least a P7100 pumped engine, and likely something hotter... and with more valves...LOL
cheers,
Douglas

 

[KrashDH]

With your 2500 designation, you are running at least a P7100 pumped engine, and likely something hotter... and with more valves...LOL
cheers,
Douglas

Haha yeah, late 04 Common rail. So much space under the hood to work on the I6 and no emission gear to boot. Took me a while to find 'er.

 

[PakProtector]

Haha yeah, late 04 Common rail. So much space under the hood to work on the I6 and no emission gear to boot. Took me a while to find 'er.

No timing belt either...LOL Turbo replacement time? 20 mins with zero cursing and bloody knuckles.

cheers,
Douglas

 

[KrashDH]

No timing belt either...LOL Turbo replacement time? 20 mins with zero cursing and bloody knuckles.

cheers,
Douglas

Oh yeah, there are some simple things, and some really not so simple things with that beast. I had to tear half the engine down this spring to fix a gear housing leak between the block/housing. You have to take the Cam out to do it which involves waaayyy more than it should (shame on you Cummins for not designing the cam gear to be removeable...). All for a $7 gasket...
I can get to the turbo in the TDI fairly easy since all the EGR stuff is out of the way

I'm starting on my clutch replacement for the Golf this weekend. Not looking forward to this one at all...

 

[oilhammer]

Super easy.

 

[KrashDH]

Super easy.

Are you talking about replacing the clutch?

 

[oilhammer]

R&R the trans, replacing the clutch, replacing the engine, the steering rack, the rear beam, the seats, the suspension, anything. It is all easy. But yes, specifically replacing the clutch/flywheel. I work on all kinds of stuff, the dubs (especially the A4 platform cars) are the best for servicing.

 

[KrashDH]

R&R the trans, replacing the clutch, replacing the engine, the steering rack, the rear beam, the seats, the suspension, anything. It is all easy. But yes, specifically replacing the clutch/flywheel. I work on all kinds of stuff, the dubs (especially the A4 platform cars) are the best for servicing.

This will be my first clutch replacement on this car. I've got a couple of good check lists from other threads and some very good advice from a couple people who have done them on these cars. It sounds like it's just a lot of "getting stuff out of the way".

I've done a lot to this car since I've owned it and found nothing terribly difficult, there's just something about clutches I'm not fond of (maybe it's the R&R experience from my truck).

 

[jmindito]

Thanks for all the replies and comments. Can you also recommend if I go the Luk 17-050 or the Valeo 52255602

Valeo:

https://valeo.autocaredata.com/items/52255602

Clutch Flywheel Conversion Kit-5 Speed Trans Valeo 52255602 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Clutch Flywheel Conversion Kit-5 Speed Trans Valeo 52255602 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Sincerely appreciate all your help and advice.

 

[PakProtector]

Thanks for all the replies and comments. Can you also recommend if I go the Luk 17-050 or the Valeo 52255602

Valeo:

https://valeo.autocaredata.com/items/52255602

Clutch Flywheel Conversion Kit-5 Speed Trans Valeo 52255602 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Clutch Flywheel Conversion Kit-5 Speed Trans Valeo 52255602 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Sincerely appreciate all your help and advice.

I would say the 17-050. Have only done two, but they are nice clutches, and since built as a unit, and ready to bolt to the crankshaft, easy to put everything back together( no need to worry about disc alignment ). The only special tool I would say is needed it the flywheel stop so as to make the final 1/4 turn of the bolt torque-ing process easy.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[KrashDH]

I would say the 17-050. Have only done two, but they are nice clutches, and since built as a unit, and ready to bolt to the crankshaft, easy to put everything back together( no need to worry about disc alignment ). The only special tool I would say is needed it the flywheel stop so as to make the final 1/4 turn of the bolt torque-ing process easy.
cheers,
Douglas

I've read that the 17-050 seems to be a good goto for stock replacement...more so than the Valeo. For going SMF, it seems the Sachs VR6/G60 was better than the Valeo in the same application.
I know if you're a DIY guy, these are the types of repairs you only want to have to do once, which is why I struggled with my decision with the Sachs and the Southbend. For a couple hundred bucks more I have peace of mind and the capability to mod in the future.

I purchased that special tool just to have, but another forum member/guru gave me some advice if you don't want to buy the flywheel counterhold tool...

" You can use a bolt thru the back lower bellhousing mount hole and a long screwdriver or pry bar to counterhold the flywheel. "

 

[PakProtector]

You can use a bolt thru the back lower bellhousing mount hole and a long screwdriver or pry bar to counterhold the flywheel.

That comes dangerously close to requiring three arms to do safely.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[KrashDH]

You can use a bolt thru the back lower bellhousing mount hole and a long screwdriver or pry bar to counterhold the flywheel.

That comes dangerously close to requiring three arms to do safely.
cheers,
Douglas

Ha, possibly. Having not done this, I'm guessing the thru bolt is just for leverage for the screwdriver/pry bar. So you'd have one hand on that holding and 1 hand on your torque wrench (assuming bolts are snugged down). I'm guessing you could find a place to wedge that bar once you get some pressure on that first bolt head.

If I wanted to save $25, wouldn't have a problem doing it this way, but since I was already in pretty deep with the clutch and all the extras, it didn't really matter to me.

 

[jmindito]

Once again sincerely appreciate ALL your valuable feedback and comments. No I am not a DIYer, but out here, the LUK 17-050 clutch alone is $ 600.00. I am just trying to same some money, that's hard to come by these days . So don't want to get it wrong or else it's its going to be a real expensive mistake.

I looked up on Amazon, eBay, RockAuto and got mixed feedback. According to Amazon and an eBay seller it's not compatible. Whereas, I see in many reviews, comments etc, they mention it is. As per this site, Luk 17-050, is what shows up on searching by my vehicle details:
https://schaeffler.opticatonline.com/part/bbzh-2d-luk-17050?ctx_bv=7454&ctx_region=usa&ctx=1

I just hope it's compatible with the manual shift 2004 VW Jetta TDI wagon with the BEW engine code, and it works. This is the most economical I found the Luk 17-050 ($206 shipped).
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4694628&cc=3163&jsn=1339

Once again, your comments and feedback are most welcome.
Thanks,
Johnny

 

[ToxicDoc]

I have it (17-050) on my 2001 ALH, but it should fit just fine on your BEW. It's a nice, smooth clutch, and it's holding my stage 2, BV39 turbo, and .216 injectors' torque just fine.

 

[zslnk]

My 2006 BEW Mk4 Wagon and my 2003 ALH Mk4 Sedan have the 17-050 LUK and I'm happy with both cars.

 

[OhCdn]

Man what's with clutches lately, is everyone's going? The Luk 17-050 is a goto for a DMF replacement on a stock to lightly tuned vehicle.
I'm in the same boat but with my 02, and I'm having a hard time determining if I want to go with the SB stage 2 Daily or the Sachs VR6/G60 combo.
Sorry not trying to derail your thread. I would look into all the trusted vendors around here, IDParts, Cascade German, etc. You'll get good service as well as there will be no question what you buy from them will be correct.

My stage 2 southbend daily slipped at 300 torque if you are looking to go past this then go higher, i have a southbend stage 3 endurance which is a great clutch but its for my setup if your just slightly tuned/ still stock turbo the stage 2 daily is awesome, its lighter then stock but grabs waay better.

 

[KrashDH]

My stage 2 southbend daily slipped at 300 torque if you are looking to go past this then go higher, i have a southbend stage 3 endurance which is a great clutch but its for my setup if your just slightly tuned/ still stock turbo the stage 2 daily is awesome, its lighter then stock but grabs waay better.

Bummer to hear that it can't seem to handle more than the Sachs Vr6/G60 combo. May have wasted $250 then....although the only thing you are supposedly getting from SB is upgraded friction plate/material...
confirmed though that South Bend uses Sachs products and upgrades the friction disk. Sachs was stamped on the pressure plate.

I did a couple hours of work on the car yesterday, I'm ready to drop the housing on Saturday and hopefully get it installed

 

[OhCdn]

Bummer to hear that it can't seem to handle more than the Sachs Vr6/G60 combo. May have wasted $250 then....although the only thing you are supposedly getting from SB is upgraded friction plate/material...
confirmed though that South Bend uses Sachs products and upgrades the friction disk. Sachs was stamped on the pressure plate.

I did a couple hours of work on the car yesterday, I'm ready to drop the housing on Saturday and hopefully get it installed

Yeah man really let her break in cause if your putting power down, your gonna want as much grab as possible Another option that would be cheap is find someone with a stronger pressure plate and i think that problem will go cause man it is waay too light with the stock pressure plate . My clutch slipped but when i took it out it was still in good condition had people look it over and said its fine so what that means to me is a stronger pressure plate cause the material held up. Might be a little machining to make it fit to that clutch but nothing major I wouldn't believe. Just my 2 cents, comment if I'm wrong.

Bummer to hear that it can't seem to handle more than the Sachs Vr6/G60 combo. May have wasted $250 then....although the only thing you are supposedly getting from SB is upgraded friction plate/material...
confirmed though that South Bend uses Sachs products and upgrades the friction disk. Sachs was stamped on the pressure plate.

I did a couple hours of work on the car yesterday, I'm ready to drop the housing on Saturday and hopefully get it installed

Man dont get me wrong I love sb, but if your looking to get power out of it look around for a bigger southbend pressure plate. When i took the stage 2 out everything looked fine other then a scuff on the pressure plate side the clutch looked great so what that tells me is it just needs more pressure, cause trust me man when you feel the clutch its sooo soft, which is great if your not putting crazy power to it. I'm sure machining will be needed pressure plate side if you throw on one with more pressure. Just my 2 cents. What do you guys think?

 

[OhCdn]

Man i thought the other one didn't post lol now I just look dumb?

 

[KrashDH]

Man i thought the other one didn't post lol now I just look dumb?

Haha no worries.
Yeah I'm not afraid of machining, I have access to all sorts of mills and lathes, just don't want to go down that hole quite yet. I have a SB in my Cummins, so I know about them a bit. Not so good luck on the truck so far, I'm on my second one (first one failed and got it warrantied) and the second one is on it's way out I think as well. Not stoked.

I won't ever be putting down crazy power. That's why I didn't step up to the Stage 2 Endurance or higher. Nozzles and a tune likely, but when I do a job like this I don't want to do it again. But who knows.

From the talking I did with vendors, SB is the last clutch manufacturer (at least for these clutches) that still uses the OEM Sachs/Luk parts then makes the friction disks their own. I know in other applications they make the entire clutch system but not for these. The other companies are sourcing out to China and other countries for their parts. So it's a bit of a reassurance. As well, the SB guys are pretty easy to deal with. Good support from them.

 

[OhCdn]

Haha no worries.
Yeah I'm not afraid of machining, I have access to all sorts of mills and lathes, just don't want to go down that hole quite yet. I have a SB in my Cummins, so I know about them a bit. Not so good luck on the truck so far, I'm on my second one (first one failed and got it warrantied) and the second one is on it's way out I think as well. Not stoked.

I won't ever be putting down crazy power. That's why I didn't step up to the Stage 2 Endurance or higher. Nozzles and a tune likely, but when I do a job like this I don't want to do it again. But who knows.

From the talking I did with vendors, SB is the last clutch manufacturer (at least for these clutches) that still uses the OEM Sachs/Luk parts then makes the friction disks their own. I know in other applications they make the entire clutch system but not for these. The other companies are sourcing out to China and other countries for their parts. So it's a bit of a reassurance. As well, the SB guys are pretty easy to deal with. Good support from them.

Exactly man and tune and nozzles im sure you'll be fine i have an 11mm and in the tune you can get a clutch saver version and not have crazy torque and still be a peppy little car