15austin
Well-known member
My clutch does not seem to be disengaging all the way. It grinds slightly going in every gear like the clutch in not all the way down. Does the hydrolic clutch have an adjustment? Any ideas what i can do?
Clutch Not Disengaging all the way
- Thread starter 15austin
- Start date
MeOmYo
Veteran Member
sounds like the throwout bearing is shot or clutch fork is bent. how many miles?
15austin
Well-known member
175,000 miles
15austin
Well-known member
Is bent clutch fork a common problem with these cars?
Nutsnbolts
Vendor , w/Business number
I wouldn't say common, but occasionally, forks are known to crack over time.
-Rich
-Rich
diesel4ever
Veteran Member
How is your brake fluid level?
Did you have it changed recently?
Did you have it changed recently?
15austin
Well-known member
Brake fluid as in the dot4 clutch fluid? I have not changed it. I did check it its full. Had the car 1 1/2 weeks now so no idea if it has or ever been changed.
RT1
Veteran Member
You probably have a leaky master or slave cylinder. Not sure if the VW has a pilot bearing in the end of the crank, but I had a truck where the pilot bearing seized on the end of the trans shaft so the clutch could never disengage. Given the miles I'd say the hydraulics on the clutch need a rebuild. O-rings don't last forever. Then again, if that's the original clutch you may due for a new one. They don't last forever either.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Your clutch release fork ball pivot most likely wore through the lever. Pull the trans out and it will be obvious.
15austin
Well-known member
If i pull the trans it would be a good time for 681 5th gear swap to i guess
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Nope. You can do that without even pulling the gearbox out.
15austin
Well-known member
Wow. Did not know that. Is there a write up about it?
Nevermind, found write up in the how to section
Last edited:
15austin
Well-known member
15austin
Well-known member
Is the clutch master cylinder and the brake master cylinder the same? Meaning do I put the fluid for the clutch in the brake master cylinder? I cant find a separate on for the clutch. My truck has a brake and a clutch master cylinder both separate.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Clutch takes fluid from the side of the brake master reservoir, yes. Other vehicles do this too.
clatterlover
Well-known member
I had this problem on my 99.5 Jetta.
Kept bleeding the clutch hydraulic circuit which seemed to marginally improve it for a short while.
Also changed both the master and slave cylinders.
Eventually, after driving it like this for two years, it was correctly diagnosed as a broken Dual Mass Flywheel which I had changed.
But now all that shifting with a clutch that could not completely disengage the transmission from the engine has ruined my syncro's in first gear...
Kept bleeding the clutch hydraulic circuit which seemed to marginally improve it for a short while.
Also changed both the master and slave cylinders.
Eventually, after driving it like this for two years, it was correctly diagnosed as a broken Dual Mass Flywheel which I had changed.
But now all that shifting with a clutch that could not completely disengage the transmission from the engine has ruined my syncro's in first gear...
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
Try pennzoil synchromesh before you condemn the trans ....it works wonders on tired brass
Frequent Flyer
Veteran Member
I am having the same problem. The problem originally was because my clutch (a south bend stage 3) had shed a spring. Turns out the clutch was rated for a gasoline 6-speed.
However, upon replacing the clutch and buttoning everything back up this latest time, it wont disengage all the way. Im going to do some more investigating tomorrow.
I would love some help on this.
However, upon replacing the clutch and buttoning everything back up this latest time, it wont disengage all the way. Im going to do some more investigating tomorrow.
I would love some help on this.
Nutsnbolts
Vendor , w/Business number
What clutch did you put in to replace the failed one? Keep us posted on what you find...
-Rich
-Rich
uzi_cupra
Veteran Member
I too have a similar problem with a spec stage 3 clutch however is intermittent. It sometimes feels stiff to go into 1st , and when it does go in it creeps forward as if the clutch pedal is not all the way down.
I have a feeling the problem is from an unbalanced flywheel (also spec solid steel) not entirely sure though....
I have a feeling the problem is from an unbalanced flywheel (also spec solid steel) not entirely sure though....
Frequent Flyer
Veteran Member
Some more back story is needed:
I did a six-speed conversion and I bought a South Bend Stage 3 kit with single mass flywheel. After installation everything worked fine; a little too much rattle at idle for me, but I dealt with it.
A few months later, my car stopped going into gear randomly. I couldnt shift. I trouble shot the whole hydraulic system to no avail. After having the tranny out twice, my mechanic and I finally decided to look at the clutch. The center hub of the friction disk had been mangled by the springs spinning inside their housings, and eventually a spring ejected. I got a warranty replacement from south bend no problem. From the first day of the broken clutch to when I got the new one back in took over a month. During that time, I installed a stock clutch and Pressure plate from a 1.8T and it worked perfectly except for slipping in higher gears under power.
I drive around for a few months, and BAM!! It does it again. South Bend finally discovers the fact that my clutch is designed for a gasoline six speed, not a diesel. This is also the reason my car rattled so loud at idle; the clutch being shaken to death. I send the old one back and they sent me a new flywheel and friction disk for a diesel, but give me the old pressure plate (even though I asked for a new one).
Upon installing the new setup, the car still has the same problem. My only option left is to assume the clutch, PP and FW are to blame. I have many more details if anyone wants to read them.
I did a six-speed conversion and I bought a South Bend Stage 3 kit with single mass flywheel. After installation everything worked fine; a little too much rattle at idle for me, but I dealt with it.
A few months later, my car stopped going into gear randomly. I couldnt shift. I trouble shot the whole hydraulic system to no avail. After having the tranny out twice, my mechanic and I finally decided to look at the clutch. The center hub of the friction disk had been mangled by the springs spinning inside their housings, and eventually a spring ejected. I got a warranty replacement from south bend no problem. From the first day of the broken clutch to when I got the new one back in took over a month. During that time, I installed a stock clutch and Pressure plate from a 1.8T and it worked perfectly except for slipping in higher gears under power.
I drive around for a few months, and BAM!! It does it again. South Bend finally discovers the fact that my clutch is designed for a gasoline six speed, not a diesel. This is also the reason my car rattled so loud at idle; the clutch being shaken to death. I send the old one back and they sent me a new flywheel and friction disk for a diesel, but give me the old pressure plate (even though I asked for a new one).
Upon installing the new setup, the car still has the same problem. My only option left is to assume the clutch, PP and FW are to blame. I have many more details if anyone wants to read them.