Clutch Choice, lets hear what mods you have on these clutches

79TA7.6

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May 8, 2006
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Live: Wilbur/Creston; Work: Moses Lake Washington
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2003 Jetta GLS 5 Speed
I am getting ready to buy a new clutch as mine has decided to start slipping. The two I am considering are:
VW DC Stage II Clutch kit from Boraparts and
SBC Stage 2 Daily Clutch Kit from IDParts.

I am curious for those of you that run either of these clutches, what mods are you running with them? I know I currently do not have enough power to worry about eating one of these, but I want to make sure I have enough clutch in case I decide to go for more power in the future. Currently I have Titan nozzles and a Malone 1.5 tune. I have a Malone 3 tune in my loader waiting fore my new clutch. I am not sure what other mods I might get in the future, but I would not go wild.

So, what mods are these clutches holding for you?
 

ErackTDI

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Oct 21, 2010
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Hamilton
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04 jetta. 13 jetta, 04 jetta
abc stage 2 daily
17/22
pp764 pd150 intake fmic 3 bar malone tune straight pipe integrated engineering rods asv pistons
arp head studs.... and prob some other goodies i can't think of now lol
 

ToddA1

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NJ 08002
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'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
It appears the contact points for the PP were just ground down. Unsure how the formula for the amount to remove would be calculated.

-Todd
 

turbophil

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Feb 1, 2013
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augusta Ga
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01 Jetta TDI 5 speed
Back in the days we doubled the "straps" from used pressure plates to the new ones and secure them with nuts and bolts and then get the assembly balanced from a local clutch/pressure plate builder. Worked good for my ITB race car.
Nowadays its standard on newer heavy duty pressure plates.
I am running a SBC II endurance clutch/pp bought from Kerma , G60 smc flywheel,1019 dlc,s7,3bar map etc. Clutch works flawlessly, almost feels like stock with no slippage.
 

ToddA1

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'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
Back in the days we doubled the "straps" from used pressure plates to the new ones and secure them with nuts and bolts and then get the assembly balanced from a local clutch/pressure plate builder.
I've done that, but that just keeps the plate from blowing apart. It doesn't increase clamping force.


excuseme, I've copied wrong link
Interesting... 520nm=383ft/lbs. That thread is over 3 years old... is the clutch still alive?

-Todd
 

tom101

Active member
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Jan 4, 2014
Location
Spain
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Leon 150, A5 3.0
I've done that, but that just keeps the plate from blowing apart. It doesn't increase clamping force.
Interesting... 520nm=383ft/lbs. That thread is over 3 years old... is the clutch still alive?
-Todd
Yes, it is and with health. It is simple, reduce a little % of the clutch movement, but the pressure by metal deformation increases.
The high pressure also avoids clutch disk wear.

In any clutch when the disk wears, pressure decreases.


In that moment I hesitated between doing that or send the disk of this new stock clutch to be reinforced with kevlar.

Now I thing that doing both mods would be a good way of having a great clutch while many many mileage at great price
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
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'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
FWIW my G60/VR6 clutch held fine with a 17/22, RC5, 11mm pump and PP520s. Upgrading to 502s pushed it over the edge. I would think the Stage 2 Daily would provide you with plenty of headroom. I have on on my son's Golf and it's fine, but that car has RC3 only. I have a Stage 2 Endurance on my wagon and it holds fine, drives the same as the daily, with the exception of an occasional shudder on mild engagement from a stop.
 

kiwibru

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Golf 2-door, 2k Silver. Red RTDI now gone but not forgotten!
SBC stage 2 Endurance here, GTB1756, Malone 5, PP502, 11mm IP, DarkSide exhaust manifold, OMI, 3bar, no slip, nice smooth engagement and soft feel like OEM. Very happy so far...
 

passartist

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Nov 25, 2013
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cambridge
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passat 130pd 03
I'm very interested in the idea, I'd just like to know exactly how much material you removed.
Yes, it is and with health. It is simple, reduce a little % of the clutch movement, but the pressure by metal deformation increases.
The high pressure also avoids clutch disk wear.
In any clutch when the disk wears, pressure decreases.
In that moment I hesitated between doing that or send the disk of this new stock clutch to be reinforced with kevlar.
Now I thing that doing both mods would be a good way of having a great clutch while many many mileage at great price
 

tom101

Active member
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Location
Spain
TDI
Leon 150, A5 3.0
I'm very interested in the idea, I'd just like to know exactly how much material you removed.
It is explainted but the translator didn't work fine.

The clutch has 3.6 milimeters at that point, and I removed exactly 0.6milimeters. You need a good caliper.

Those 0.6mm are 3% of the clutch movement
 

Digital Corpus

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Mar 14, 2008
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'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
GTB1756, Malone Custom, Race 520s, 10 mm IP, DC Stage IV. Dyno'd at 25 psi with 325 ft*lbs trq. Currently 29 psi, 32 spike and a puff of smoke on spool. Heavier pedal by ~50% over most B4s, smooth engagement and no rattle/chatter.
 

79TA7.6

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Live: Wilbur/Creston; Work: Moses Lake Washington
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2003 Jetta GLS 5 Speed
Digital, have you ever had a lighter duty clutch in there with that same setup? I ask because both the clutches I asked about should be rated for the 325 ft-lbs you are running. I know it would be too close for comfort, but I was thinking the stage 4 is good for over 500 ft-lbs. Is that really needed? I am sking on a serious note because I am not sure how or why they rate clutches the way they do.
 

Digital Corpus

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'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
79TA7.6, that's 325 working torque. Now, take into account a hot day or a track day and you increase the clutch's temp and that drops your coefficient of friction, lowering the rating. I was uprated to a Stage IV out of kindness and I've not had a reason to swap it to something less performance rated
 

79TA7.6

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Live: Wilbur/Creston; Work: Moses Lake Washington
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2003 Jetta GLS 5 Speed
Digital, I also know that you make more power when it is colder out because the air is more dense. This is when my clutch started slipping. I think I will likely go with the IDparts Stage 2 daily. It should be more than enough to handle the power I will be making in any near future.
 

Digital Corpus

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'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
No no no! That is a misconception that I've learned about when investigating IATs...

The reason for more power is the lower starting temperature. Have a look here for a simple calculator

If it's 85˚F out, 29 psi boost, with a 70% efficient turbo and 80% efficient IC with a 1 psi pressure drop, you will have an approximate IAT of 142˚F. Drop that to 60˚F ambient and you have IATs of ~114˚F.

However, with a hotter ambient temp, heat soaking is much easier. So because IAT will affect the efficiency of combustion process, you'll have better power because it's cold, not because you have denser air. The delta between starting temps in the cylinder and peak temps during combustion is one way to compute the about of work that the engine can do. When this difference is smaller, you have less power.

Either way, have fun with your clutch :)
 

FlyTDI Guy

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Nov 3, 2001
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PNW
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'01 Jetta GLS
Might as well chime in on the DC clutch side of things. DC Stage II here. Pedal effort is heavier than stock (as advertised) but I don't mind and is reminiscent of older days when that was how things were done. My setup is in my profile. Despite some reports of issues w/DC, mine has been faultless (so far). I've got over 50k on it and I hope it lasts a good deal longer. Engagement is smooth, no chatter, locks up fine and, other than the heavier pedal, works much like a stock clutch. Stage II still uses organic facings so engagement is not abrupt yet still crisp on aggressive starts. I really have no complaints other than it's not quiet. Probably due in part to the 14lb flywheel. Most prefer 17-21lb but I actually like the lighter variant. Definitely makes a difference in rev response.
 

maxmoo

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FlyTDI Guy

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'01 Jetta GLS
I ran RC3 tune w/PP764's, 11mm pump, stock DMF w/Spec Stage 1 clutch for many, many miles. No problems... YMMV.
 

maxmoo

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I ran RC3 tune w/PP764's, 11mm pump, stock DMF w/Spec Stage 1 clutch for many, many miles. No problems... YMMV.
You must have had an early LUK set up as I did ?.......did you use your original DMF or a new one? If new, which one?....sachs or luk?
Are the new 17-050 dmf's different/weaker than the original early LUK's?
 
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IndigoBlueWagon

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New LUK kits are every bit as smooth as the ones on '99.5s, but not as strong, it appears. And components are not interchangeable.
 

maxmoo

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New LUK kits are every bit as smooth as the ones on '99.5s, but not as strong, it appears. And components are not interchangeable.
I've read that before......but are the early Luk DMF's different/stronger/weaker than the rep kit(17-050) ones? Also are the "original" ones available from the dealer different than the 17-050 sets?

....just to be clear.....I'm asking about the flywheels specifically.
 
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LNXGUY

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Jan 10, 2004
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Barrie, Ont, Canada
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'05 Jetta TDI Wagon
I've read that before......but are the early Luk DMF's different/stronger/weaker than the rep kit(17-050) ones? Also are the "original" ones available from the dealer different than the 17-050 sets?
I doubt you'll find another LUK clutch that's the same as the ones installed on the 99.5 cars... Even at the dealer.
 

FlyTDI Guy

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Nov 3, 2001
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PNW
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'01 Jetta GLS
You must have had an early LUK set up as I did ?.......did you use your original DMF or a new one? If new, which one?....sachs or luk?
Are the new 17-050 dmf's different/weaker than the original early LUK's?

This was an '01 Golf so... AFAIK, the DMF was stock Sachs. While I had a good amount of power to play with, I never overtly abused the setup. Plenty of full-out accelerations but little gear slamming.
 
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