Clutch change procedure G60 and DMF flywheels

rfd967

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2013
Location
NW Ohio
TDI
03 Jetta TDI
Okay Draft one is finished. If anyone has suggestions please let me know

The PDF is 11 pages and includes the first post and then the review of the tranny removal...

A4ClutchChange.pdf

when we get a final version it can be put up on the articles section....

LINK updated...

any chance of getting this pdf up and running again?? i see a clutch replacement on my horizon...
 

pard

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2006
Location
Philadelphia, PA
TDI
02 Jetta
Very informative thread. I did a clutch change years ago on a previous jetta but don't remember all of the details. I will be doing this again shortly and have been reading up to make sure I am prepared with all of the tools, etc.

Everyone mentions removing the half-axles for more room. I would prefer to put the front end up on ramps rather than jack stands for stability and clearance.

Has anyone done this procedure while on ramps? Is it possible to disconnect the axle(s) while on ramps, or is there just not enough space to get them away from the tranny?

Thanks in advance for any tips.
Chris
 

DanG144

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Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
I have never done it on ramps. Just going from memory, the tire would make it hard (probably not impossible?? not sure) to remove some of the bolting. I never loosen the axle bolt/nut - never remove the axle shaft itself - just tie the shaft up and out of the way (it is always in the way some...) What was most valuable to me was removing the passenger side axle flange from the differential.

It is unsafe and it will damage your bearings if you loosen/remove the axle bolt with weight on the tires. The bearing are able to split apart unless you keep about 120 lb-ft of torque on the bolts.

I know I would much rather do it on jack stands than ramps. The ramps will restrict access and maneuvering room too much.
 

Dimitri16V

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Location
DE
TDI
01 Golf, 04 Golf
No ramps
Drivers axle has to be removed or tranny flange . Straight forward job just many things to remove and re-install
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
No ramps
Drivers axle has to be removed or tranny flange . Straight forward job just many things to remove and re-install
neither the flange or axle needs to be removed, trans will slip right into place with both flanges and both axles still installed... just jack the engine far enough forward and lower it enough, unbolting the post cat coupler and the exhaust to subframe bracket facilitates this engine movement
 

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
Your the man, Jimmy. I never loosened the subframe bracket, but I could never get the engine far enough forward. I always gave in and pulled the transmission flange.
 

wrenchmonkey

New member
Joined
May 24, 2016
Location
Owasso, OK
TDI
'03 NB ALH
long time forum reader, first time to post. jimbote, I am interested in how to "... jack the engine far enough forward and lower it enough, unbolting the post cat coupler and the exhaust to subframe bracket..." Right now I have 03 ALH Beetle with new SMF and clutch, ready to install 5-sp trans. Do not want to remove flanges. Can you explain how?
 

UhOh

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Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS
When you unbolt the transmission mounts (side and the dogbone) you can pivot the engine forward on that side (trans side). Be careful about being too energetic, watch for binding.

I haven't done this but I kind of have an idea, plus, I trust jimbote.

Regarding pard's question about using ramps, I'd think that the ramps would just get in your way (unless you had the ramps facing the other way and reversed up them? kind of a trick to get enough clearance to start with).
 

steve6

Veteran Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Location
Beaverton, ON
TDI
2003 jetta tdi
long time forum reader, first time to post. jimbote, I am interested in how to "... jack the engine far enough forward and lower it enough, unbolting the post cat coupler and the exhaust to subframe bracket..." Right now I have 03 ALH Beetle with new SMF and clutch, ready to install 5-sp trans. Do not want to remove flanges. Can you explain how?
I have never removed the flanges, just takes a bit of wrastling to get the trans up and in. Typically the car will be on jacks in general, instead of using the top engine brace you can use a floor jack (with a bit of cushion against the oil pan) under the oil pan to drop the engine angle and wiggle it around to make it easier to get the trans up and in. A person helping you to get the trans in really helps make this easier.
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
i just wanted to post up a device i came up with years ago to do an on-site five speed swap in indiana ... i've used it ever since and have not done a single five speed on the lift since coming up with this .... basically it's an engine lift bar with two small cable boat winches, one to hold/tilt/lower the engine the other to lower/raise the transmission... it works incredibly well and takes the effort out of getting the trans up and down ... it also allows the trans to float in multiple planes rather than being ridgidly fixed to a trans jack... the rig is versatile and i've used it to raise and lower the trans in my truck through the shifter hole as well as full engine swaps in mkiv cars using both winches to raise/lower the drivetrain
 

ymz

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 12, 2003
Location
Between Toronto & Montreal
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon
Thanks! Although I hope not to have to remove a transmission again, I'll try balancing it that way if I ever do...

Yuri.
 

Bora-chiara

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Location
San Tan Valley, Arizona
TDI
ALH, BHW, CKRA
I just did this and I did NOT remove the flanges. Getting the transmission out was hard with the passenger flange on as the DMF is thicker than the SMF. For installation, I removed the 3 bolts holding the lower control arm from the ball joint and had a helper pull the axle out and away from the car and that gave a lot of extra room and was able to get the transmission up and in within a matter of 3 minutes. Super easy to just remove that and not worry about the axle nut on the end of the hub. Knowing this, i'll not worry about the flanges on any more mk4's for clutch change. Also, my throw out bearing completely fell apart in my hands too upon removal.
 

mgoff5000

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Location
Danville, CA
TDI
2000 Jetta, 2004 Passat (RIP)
Thanks everyone for documenting the job here. I have the manual, but there's great detail here. I've just ordered a Sachs VR6 clutch to enable some power upgrades. A couple questions that I couldn't figure out from other posts:
1. Should the transmission be in gear or neutral to start? An early step is to remove slave cylinder so I figure you can't shift after that right?
2. How do you counterhold the axle to remove inner 12 bolts? One post said rotate shaft to get each to top. (which implies answer to #1 is 'neutral') Is this a screwdriver-in-rotor type of operation? pdf says brakes but this is a one-man job if possible.
3. Do folks disconnect the exhaust at the turbo or undo the "subframe clamp" as manual suggests?
4. Do kits typically include grease for spline? If not, which type recommended? Seems like that matters.
5. I've got to buy something to hang off the engine bar for a transmission hoist. Any specific suggestions on what to pick up at home depot, HF etc?

Thanks, I'll post more stuff as I get going and try to add to what's here.
 

UhOh

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Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS
I'm preparing to do a clutch R&R on the wife's Golf: maybe another 4 weeks out as I'm waiting for the car to hit 200k miles. I'll be doing this solo, in which case I want to find out what tools/aids work best for managing the transmission in/out.

I have an engine support bar. I think that I've read of folks dropping adjustable straps off it and down to/around the transmission. Would this eliminate the need for a transmission jack (which I don't have- cheap enough though)?

I'll have the suspension parts ripped out for a refresh, which will, I expect, drastically reduce the hassles associated with getting the transmission in and out. I think my only issue will be managing the weight of the transmission.
 

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
I have used the straps off the engine support bar. It works ok, but is awkward. What works the best for me is a 500 lb differential chain hoist and a strap, or two chain hoists. The little 500 pounders are not common.

Use one strap or hoist to lift the transmission, and the other to tilt it on its axis.

I use a floor jack to hold the transmission while repositioning the straps, if required.

I have a transmission jack, and find it essentially useless for this job. Maybe I just don't know how to use it.
 

csstevej

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Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
I used two jacks and set them high so as to drop the tranny out from the bottom.
I used an engine support to hold the engine from the top.
I disconnected the drive shaftes from trans side and tied them up and out of the way.
I also removed the bottom engine mount and disconnected the down pipe so I could move the engine around.
I also used a floor jack as Dan suggested, as the trans jack I rented was useless.
I also did this myself in the driveway when I did my auto to manual swap.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS
OK, thanks! Was starting to question whether the transmission jack would be of any real use. I'm not willing to fiddle around with having a transmission on my chest (I've assisted on one of these jobs with wrestling things around without a support bar and using physical strength and it's something that I don't think is a good strategy- yeah, pretty sure that I could do it, but I'd like to reduce the chances of injury).

Does having the LCAs out help with clearances? (as noted, I'm refreshing the suspension) I'll be draining the transmission fluid (going to change it), but I'd like to avoid having to remove flanges (as of now I'm not aware of this car having leaking seals, but...)
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
My flanges were on when I installed the replacement trans, not sure about the LCA's being out giving more room.
 

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
I have been told by VERY knowledgeable folks, that if you free the engine to move by freeing the exhaust, remove the bottom engine mount, that you do not need to remove the flanges.

But it was still a fight for me - I ended up pulling the flange. Now I just plan on pulling it as part of the job.
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
disconnect exhaust at coupler, unbolt downpipe from subframe, jack engine forward and lower engine until the end of disconnected downpipe nearly rubs the tunnel ... trans will come out and go back in without removing flanges or mounts ... i use a cable winch engine bar that makes raising/lowering of the engine and trans much easier but just lowering the engine and jacking forward will save a ton of headaches
 

where2

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 29, 1999
Location
North Palm Beach, FL, USA
TDI
One '13 JSW_TDI & One '04 Variant_TDI
I'm preparing to do a clutch R&R on the wife's Golf: maybe another 4 weeks out as I'm waiting for the car to hit 200k miles. I'll be doing this solo, in which case I want to find out what tools/aids work best for managing the transmission in/out.

I have an engine support bar. I think that I've read of folks dropping adjustable straps off it and down to/around the transmission. Would this eliminate the need for a transmission jack (which I don't have- cheap enough though)?

...I think my only issue will be managing the weight of the transmission.
Since I have clutches in both a MkIV and a MkV to do in the very near future, I simply looked on my local craigslist and found a HFT transmission jack that had been used once (to do a 4Runner transfer case). It's the hydraulic one, but it cost me less than the mechanical one would have cost new from HFT. After I bought the dedicated hydraulic transmission jack, I noticed there are adapters to convert the typical large rolling floor jack with a removable lift cup into a transmission jack. They go for about $40 on ebay. I probably should have gone this route...

I know exactly what you mean about managing the weight. When I was roughly half my current age, I single handedly pulled a Mk1 Scirocco 5spd transmission using the brute force reverse bench press method. I recall that job being one of the most uncontrolled potentially hazardous things I have done under my succession of VW's, and vowed never to repeat that evening. To get the transmission back in, I used a standard rolling floor jack, because I didn't have the brute strength to bench press it up and into place. Reading this thread made me realize, the Mk1 was a cake job compared to the interferences found in the bay of a MkIV or a MkV!! Being older, wiser, and more in tune with my deductible on my health insurance, I determined the less than $100 I spent to purchase a real transmission jack should be money well spent in doing two clutches. If I don't feel the need to keep the jack around after I complete clutch #2, I'm sure I can get my $$$ back out of it on CL.
 

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
If the transmission jack turns out to be a real help (over a floor jack or engine beam) let us know. I have one that I have never managed to get any good out of...I can see where it would be of help for a longitudinal engine, and even an atharthships one, if you did not have to rotate it, like we do.

I just about guarantee that an engine beam with two very tiny boat trailer bow cranks mounted on it is this best answer.

Jimbote has done more of these than just about any human on earth, and he is a consummate professional.
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Daughters car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
The first clutch I did on my 05 I bought one of those floor jack adapters. Absolutely worthless. I finally used the "reverse bench press method " and had my 16 year old daughter start the first bolt at the top of the bell housing so it didn't fall on me.

I had to remove the flange using that method. You can only hold that transmission so long.
 
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