CKRE Timing belt replaced ,now no start

poolenglish

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Dec 8, 2021
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46342
TDI
looking for one
I replaced the timing belt on my 2013 passat ckre tdi. Drove it 40 miles...ran fine. Turned corner a traffic light and it died. Sounded like no compression . Removed timing belt cover and saw the big idler pulley broke!
I towed it home, removed valve cover and saw rockers broken (all 8 of exhaust).
I removed the head, all 8 exhaust valves were bent, valve guides and seals were ok.
All 8 intake valves were straight.
I replaced exhaust valves with new, lapped and vacuum tested ALL ports and sealing good.
Reinstalled head with new gasket and reinstalled everything including new rockers.
Cams lined up.
Now it just cranks and doesn't fire.
OMG this ckre is a puzzle!
Where do I go next?
Compression test?
I used the crank lock and cam pin and pump pin when reinstalling the new belt.
I have Ross tech (vag-com) but I don't think it will help without it running?
Can anyone help? Thanks new friends
 

eugene89us

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Location
Southern USA
TDI
2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
Oh, wow, that is a terrible outcome. When you say the large idler pulley broke, do you mean the bolt snapped off or was there something else? Do you mind sharing a picture of the broken idler? The bolt is TTY bolt, it was the scariest part of the timing belt job IMO. I used a new bolt as you're required for stretch bolts, however going that extra 90 degrees beyond the torque spec was nerve wracking. It felt like I was about to strip something out, thankfully it went 90 degrees without an incident. After that hopeless stretchy feeling, I decided that next TB job at 200k, I will keep the large idler in place and let it run another 100k before I do its replacement again. Then if car makes it to 300K and if I were to strip something out, at least I won't cry as hard.

If everything is installed correctly, usually hard starting was a result of an individual being 1 tooth off on timing. Typically, re-timing the vehicle would do the trick and the car would crank properly. But your question with involved work that you did is a little beyond my expertise here, I will defer to pros to chime in.
 

poolenglish

Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2021
Location
46342
TDI
looking for one
Oh, wow, that is a terrible outcome. When you say the large idler pulley broke, do you mean the bolt snapped off or was there something else? Do you mind sharing a picture of the broken idler? The bolt is TTY bolt, it was the scariest part of the timing belt job IMO. I used a new bolt as you're required for stretch bolts, however going that extra 90 degrees beyond the torque spec was nerve wracking. It felt like I was about to strip something out, thankfully it went 90 degrees without an incident. After that hopeless stretchy feeling, I decided that next TB job at 200k, I will keep the large idler in place and let it run another 100k before I do its replacement again. Then if car makes it to 300K and if I were to strip something out, at least I won't cry as hard.

If everything is installed correctly, usually hard starting was a result of an individual being 1 tooth off on timing. Typically, re-timing the vehicle would do the trick and the car would crank properly. But your question with involved work that you did is a little beyond my expertise here, I will defer to pros to chime in.
Yes, the bolt broke, I am hoping it is just out of time now. I listed the car on Craigslist/chicago
If it doesn't sell quickly for $3800 I might try to fix it again, I just need to chill on it for a while.
Thanks for your response and help.
 
Last edited:

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
Yes, the bolt broke, I am hoping it is just out of time now. I listed the car on Craigslist/chicago
If it doesn't sell quickly for $3800 I might try to fix it again, I just need to chill on it for a while.
Thanks for your response and help.
Those bolts aren’t reusable. They’re TTY and need to be replaced. All the bolts you remove when the TB is done need to be replaced.
 

eugene89us

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Location
Southern USA
TDI
2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
Yeah, as uncomfortable as the feeling was stretching a brand new TTY bolt, I cannot imagine re-stretching the old TTY bolt. For a couple bucks a bolt, certainly not worth the risk. But at this point, no reason to cry over spilt milk...

In terms of the car listing, I don't know how quickly the car will go for that price. For kicks and giggles, Carvana offered me $3500 first time and then close to $4000 for a working 2014 Passat TDI SEL. Maybe Chicago market is vastly different than Deep South, but I hope it all works out. Used car market has already started its downward spiral.
 

greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
Assuming you have everything locked down correctly, your camshaft likely spun the drive hub from the camshaft body and the lobes. The hub is just pressed onto the tube and if you have a hard stop, it will slip out of time. The only check I'm aware of is to pull the vacuum pump from the other end of the head. There is a flat in the end of the intake camshaft (much like an older ALH) that should be perfectly level with the head, with the exhaust cam pinned at TDC. If it isn't, the drive hub has slipped.

I've said it before, the CR heads really aren't cost effective to repair. Cheapest course of action is to source a used long block.
 

poolenglish

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Dec 8, 2021
Location
46342
TDI
looking for one
How the heck can I get the belt pulley off of the exhaust cam? That sucker is tight!
If I can get it off I can possibly see the position of the keyway when in TDC to verify IF the exhaust cam end spun .
Also can I check compression with the cams out and glowplugs removed to verify that the valves are seating and holding compression?
 

greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
The hub-shaft is an interference fit and in a very specific orientation. I'm not aware of any way to fix it if it indeed has slipped.
 

poolenglish

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Dec 8, 2021
Location
46342
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looking for one
UPDATE; after chilling out about the problem... I got it running!!!!!! this is what I did
1. disconnected injector wires
2. removed all glow plugs
3. checked compression on each cylinder.... all acceptable 350psi (24 bar) woohoo! my home vale job was good! first time i've done one!
4. researched like hell and found that I had to run fuel pump via vcds (ross tech)
5. now it starts-dies-starts-dies ...after about 5 times cranking doing this it will start and run. my guess is that I need to check timing now.
 

740GLE

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Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Location
NH
TDI
2017 Alltrack SE; Totaled 2015 Passat SEL, BB 2010 Sedan Man; 2012 Passat SE w/ Nav,
I'd check you fuel filter too, don't need to be seeing glitter in there after all this hard work.
 
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