CKRA CP4 disaster prevention plate from Whitbread. Instructions inside.

eugene89us

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Mar 17, 2014
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Southern USA
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2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
Good morning, everyone, I am not a fan of aftermarket mods, I already got burned installing an oil catch can on my BMW diesel which clogged and caused PCV system to block. Thankfully, it was a cheap trial, simple reversal of the catch can restored normal PCV flow and eliminated oil escape through turbo seals. 70,000 miles later, Bimmer still runs like a dream.

However, both my Bimmers are having an active recall for CP4 pump, and given my distrust in my dealer which screws up simple things like oil changes, I decided that if I am still running failure prone original CP4 on my TDI CKRA, then recalled BMW CP4 which is actually a new variant with beefed-up roller compared to ours, I should be fine with it. There is some metallurgy in the roller in BMW variant that caused the recall, likewise the only time it fails is with fuel contamination. The trouble is that you can go from fine to $10,000 in damage by unwittingly filling up your TDI with contaminated fuel. Whether accidental misfueling with petrol (unlikely with misfueling adapters these days, though you hear horror stories of fuel truck filling diesel well with gasoline) or water contamination can be enough to cause rollers to go unlubricated, which will create metal shavings, and the same contaminated fuel will then flow via metering valve into the injectors, permanently clogging them with metal debris. And then the dirt will move back to fuel tank at the same time. So now, you're replacing broken HPFP as well as 4 injectors, all fuel hoses (or spending lots of time washing them), as well as dropping and cleaning your fuel tank. Back in the day, there was tool made by 2Micron that basically separated the lubrication sectors from the metering sectors in CP4. You would have fuel reach metering pump directly from the OEM filter, while the plate would create second circuit where same incoming fuel would enter the lubrication parts of pump and then exit it back into the return line but would also contain in-line 10 micron filter. In case the contaminated fuel causes rollers to fail, the metal shavings would be filtered by the 10 micron filter. The only replacement that will need to happen is just the HPFP that failed (the bypass does not protect pump) but it will prevent all the major downstream damage. Here is a link to a video:


So, when I realized I really wanted the bypass prevention kit, 2Micron went out of business or at least stopped making them. I reached out to Whitbread Performance, who was doing CP3 changes but not doing the disaster plates about a year ago. Something changed their mind, I saw on Bimmerfest forum that they are testing the kit for BMW's N47 and N57 engines, so I checked their site and now see they have a kit out for CKRA engines. I am intrigued. We don't always have the best fuel in rural South, so it always concerns me about fuel quality. Doing this kit would likely help limit the amount of damage caused should HPFP fail. It is not as bulletproof as doing a full CP3 downgrade, but at least it protects fuel system from a major catastrophe with this kit.

TDI CP4 Metering Valve Bypass Kit – Whitbread Performance Innovations, LLC

So the question is, who is with me on this?
 

AverageAndy

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I'm with you on this and I have added it to my list of things to do on my car. The list so far, in order of need, is:

1. Flush cooling system and replace with fresh Zerex G40 (my car runs at the top side of temperature range)
2. Replace leaking valve cover (already have the parts)
3. Replace LCAs (already have the parts), probably should also replace shocks and strut mounts/bearings
4. Engine oil/filter, DSG oil filter, fuel filter @ 160k miles (already have the parts, currently at 158,2xx miles)
5. Decide what to do about a failed DPF -projected to be full at around 170k miles
6. CP4 bypass kit

I look forward to your detailed write up with photos on the forum. I loved your valve cover write up, and will use it when I get to #2 on my list.
 

eugene89us

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Mar 17, 2014
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Southern USA
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2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
Thanks, Andy, I appreciate it very much. I went ahead and ordered it, $225 plus $6 economy shipping. Instructions seem very straightforward, does require some modifications for fuel lines, since you have to cut filter into them as well as cut the 3-way tee. So if something that I do not like, the reversal will cost money, since I will have to buy replacement hoses. But with these being tried for Duramax and other engines already with good success, I think this will be cheap insurance. $200 to prevent $10,000, even if I have to buy new HPFP for $2000 more is a lot easier and getting car back on road will also be far quicker this way. The chances of HPFP grenading is quite low, but consequences are very high.
 

danmin

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Oct 6, 2023
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DFW
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2014 Passat 2.0 TDI @ 180k
Thanks, Andy, I appreciate it very much. I went ahead and ordered it, $225 plus $6 economy shipping. Instructions seem very straightforward, does require some modifications for fuel lines, since you have to cut filter into them as well as cut the 3-way tee. So if something that I do not like, the reversal will cost money, since I will have to buy replacement hoses. But with these being tried for Duramax and other engines already with good success, I think this will be cheap insurance. $200 to prevent $10,000, even if I have to buy new HPFP for $2000 more is a lot easier and getting car back on road will also be far quicker this way. The chances of HPFP grenading is quite low, but consequences are very high.
I’d be careful. Thankfully the fuel pump is right in front on the CKRAs, but that kit is NOT trusted anymore by the 3.0 TDI community. The install process for us is a huge pain in the behind for us. And lots report leaking meter valve plates from the kit. Which means we have to take the EGR system and intake manifold off among other things. Hopefully yours doesn’t leak, but I wouldn’t be surprised. Unfortunately the 3.0s don’t have an easy CP3 swap kit. And it’s an engine-out process regardless for us.

The issue has to do with supposedly cheap chinese machine work and cheap low-quality fuel metering valves.
 

eugene89us

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2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
@danmin Are you able to elaborate on these cases? I think the design of this is a copy of 2micron version, which I hear from reviews from 2012 to early 2020s was a work of art. Of course, 2 micron had super elaborate brackets for the filter, this one is simpler in-line filter as well as simiarly constructed plate to 2Micron. The difference was 2Micron's inlet was screwed in which could leak over time, while this plate's input barb appears to be integral with housing. I believe Whitbread makes them in the US, so these plates are not Chinese knock offs, and a few people that did it on Touareg forums seem to like it on a 3.0L since they came out in 2023. The CKRA HPFP is right in front, readily accessible, so I do not anticipate hardship installing the plate. The current factory set up is not leaking, are these plates somehow prone to leaking? Do they loosen up or something? They do come with 2 o-rings, one for plate to sandwich to HPFP, while the other is to block the channel from cooling/lubricating section to pressure section.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
The CKRAs with bad HPFPs that I have seen safely remain at zero. Volkswagen didn't even include the CKRA in the TSB/warranty extension for the HPFPs like they did with the CBEA and CJAA. I think you might have a solution in search of a problem here.

And to be fair, the TOTAL number of HPFP failures I've seen on the CBEA/CJAA is a whopping six. Six cars. Three of which got a total replacement under warranty, two I did myself here, and the third got towed away (it was a beat/neglected turd anyway).

I think the HPFP deal is blown out of proportion. And while some trucks might use them, I feel they are perhaps more failure prone because they simply have much more fuel going through them AND have a higher likelihood of getting some real garbage fuel from some farm tank or the like.

My two cents...
 

eugene89us

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Southern USA
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2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
Brian, where were you to discourage me on day 1? Anyways, item is already on the way, what the heck, I will be your guinea pig. In worst case, it will do no good. In best case, may save on expense. Hopefully won't create an issue. And I will monitor closely for leaking, though I spoke with Zach with Barber Automotive and Matt with Whitbread Performance, and they have gone through a few cycles of testing and product improvement, so far not a significant rate of adverse events from it. But I agree, the rate of failures is very low, the feeling is like airplane crashes - the likelihood of dying in an commercial airplane is slim to none, and yet the severity of an uncommon crash causes many people to have fear of flying. I think we are dealing with the same phenomenon, except I laugh at people that are scared of flying and you all get to laugh at me for this mod. LOL.

So far, the plan is to do this project, as well as once the OEM plastic oil cooler craps out again (I am hoping I get another 60k out of it), I will do that Vaico replacement which is on backburner waiting its turn. Trying to create a Frankenstein. When does CKRA cease being a CKRA? LOL.
 

danmin

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2014 Passat 2.0 TDI @ 180k
An alternative is to upgrade to the CP4 Exergy " System Saver " Fuel Pressure Regulator. It’s supposed to catch any shrapnel before it goes into your fuel system. the filters are expected to fill up and then starve your engine of fuel so you can’t force any contaminants through. Also supposed to give you the standard jump in power. All the reports of this fuel metering valve being used and the pump blowing were positive. More straightforward of an install and gives you the peace of mind of safety along with a power jump
 

eugene89us

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Southern USA
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2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
When I looked at Exergy, all I found was that it was made for CP4.2, which is a twin cylinder pump, I am certain it is the kind used on my wife's X5 with 3L N57 engine and likely same for 3.0L TDIs. I have not been able to confirm that Exergy is compatible with CP4.1 pump used on CKRA as well my N47 sedan (328d). And I understand that Exergy uses a finer mesh screen, so it will protect high pressure side (rail and injectors) from debris, but the outflow from the pump's lower pressure chamber is still unfiltered, which will contaminate the fuel tank. I saw instructions for 3.0L, which I agree is an absolute pain to get to the pump, CKRA is right there in the front with lots of space, so that will make it super simple to fit the plate as well as new fuel line without removing anything. I ordered replacement fuel lines OEM new from eBay ($14 and $20) just in case something goes wrong, and I need to revert back to stock, since I have to cut into supply line to attach a 3-way wye to add separate fuel intake to separated chamber as well as cut into return line to insert 10 micron filter on fuel return to tank. I am considering deviating from instructions to see if I can route new line a little more cleanly, though I am realizing the spacing in there is limited if you want the beauty cover back. My goal is to route in such a way so I do not have to trim the beauty cover at all.... For anyone considering the plate, I suggest just buying the plate instead of a kit. Since I am reconsidering routing, I will be using my own stainless fittings, instead of ones that come in a kit. If everything arrives by the weekend, I am considering doing it on Sunday.
 

danmin

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DFW
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2014 Passat 2.0 TDI @ 180k
When I looked at Exergy, all I found was that it was made for CP4.2, which is a twin cylinder pump, I am certain it is the kind used on my wife's X5 with 3L N57 engine and likely same for 3.0L TDIs. I have not been able to confirm that Exergy is compatible with CP4.1 pump used on CKRA as well my N47 sedan (328d). And I understand that Exergy uses a finer mesh screen, so it will protect high pressure side (rail and injectors) from debris, but the outflow from the pump's lower pressure chamber is still unfiltered, which will contaminate the fuel tank. I saw instructions for 3.0L, which I agree is an absolute pain to get to the pump, CKRA is right there in the front with lots of space, so that will make it super simple to fit the plate as well as new fuel line without removing anything. I ordered replacement fuel lines OEM new from eBay ($14 and $20) just in case something goes wrong, and I need to revert back to stock, since I have to cut into supply line to attach a 3-way wye to add separate fuel intake to separated chamber as well as cut into return line to insert 10 micron filter on fuel return to tank. I am considering deviating from instructions to see if I can route new line a little more cleanly, though I am realizing the spacing in there is limited if you want the beauty cover back. My goal is to route in such a way so I do not have to trim the beauty cover at all.... For anyone considering the plate, I suggest just buying the plate instead of a kit. Since I am reconsidering routing, I will be using my own stainless fittings, instead of ones that come in a kit. If everything arrives by the weekend, I am considering doing it on Sunday.
yep. it bolts in…. sorta. you need the remove part of the connector. easier to explain with this thread:


I ran a Duramax metering valve for a while in my passat before I traded for an A6 3.0 TDI
 

eugene89us

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Finally had my day off today and installed the plate. Word of advice - order just the plate from Whitbread for $149. I did not end up using any of his ancillary supplies. They came with 5/16 hose, 5/16 fittings/tees, and clamps that work for 5/16 hose. When I opened things up, I realized that original hose on CKRA to which you will need to tee into has 3/8 ID. So I went to O'Reilly. Had to buy their 3-piece 3-way tee in 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 sizes, since they did not have 3/8 by itself. It was brass, but much better made that stainless steel tee I bought from Amazon. Be careful on Amazon, lots of Chinese garbage and their tees have metal shavings still present inside, a large enough flow could dislodge it and cause HPFP trouble. And the OD and ID are also smaller, what you'd expect from Chinese junk, hate it with passion. The Dorman Tee was good quality and clean inside with appropriate ID as supposed to be (though also made in China, can't win). Link here: Dorman HELP! 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 Inch Adapter Fitting 55109 | O'Reilly Auto (oreillyauto.com) I also purchase fuel injection hose made by Gates from them at $9.49/foot, Got 3 feet, but a major overkill. 1-2 feet would have been plenty. Here is a link: Gates Barricade Fuel Hose 27341 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

So, what I decided to do before I started on the project is to figure out a way to route the lines without having to trim the beauty cover. Unfortunately, the place is SUPER cramped despite being accessible easily, so you had to route new hose around whether you liked it or not. I wish I could just attach a tee right above HPFP and run 90 degree hose down to plate and continue regular hose to :::: opening. If you wonder what I mean with colons, look at HPFP photo below. Inlet side is marked with these. Could not make it work that way, not enough space. Maybe if someone can make a small 3-way piece in their machine shop with one line going straight and the other line going forward and then down. Too complicated. I could have done it if there was more space between lines, but everything is very short as it is. So I ended up spending $15-20 at the dealer to purchase OEM hose - the actual one that runs from middle part of UFI filter to the :::: opening on HPFP. The reason I got it was for 2 reasons - if I decided to stop project midway, I would have OEM hose that I could revert back after I cut the lines. If I proceed, the hose has 2 beautiful 90-degree bends, so I could use parts of it to route the hose out and down to see if I can clear beauty cover. I ended up using the part of the OEM hose that would normally run between filter and the plastic sensor of some kind. Part of the length by the plastic sensor had to be trimmed a bit to not poke as tall and clear the beauty cover from the disaster plate, the side that attaches to filter I also trimmed since once the piece goes up from plate, then turns back down, then moves toward the front of car, and then rises up - I didn't need it to rise up to start getting in the way of beauty cover. So right before it started to go back up, I trimmed it and attached an elbow to look left. Photo of the package from dealer, dealer was $15, while eBay tries to sell same piece for $30-50, go with dealer.



First, clean the area with brake cleaner and air hose. I just used canned air we had at home. This is before I started:


Second, remove the metering valve with T25 (I believe). Very easy to loosen, used a screwdriver with torx bit. Then clean some more to avoid contamination. I would spray some brake cleaner on lint free shop towel and clean away from the hole. Kept hole pristine clean.



The metering valve - place it somewhere clean and safe.



Alright, then install the disaster prevention plate. There are 2 o-rings. One on the nipple and the other to sandwich to HPFP housing. I had to use a dab of grease to hold sandwich o-ring in place, else it would fall out the moment you turned the nipple down to install. It is within the isolated part anyways, but I used a pencil tip amount to avoid going nuts with it. Whitbread recommends doing it. OEM metering valve uses similar but blue o-ring with little teeth that prevent it from falling out. Maybe something Whitbread can work on replacing to avoid needing that grease. Note on the photo below I was testing using the part of OEM hose that ran from plastic sensor to the HFPP itself - the same hose adjacent on the photo, but it did not clear the plate well as it did not go down fast enough, hence I went with the other piece that goes up, then immediately down. To be honest, if you don't mind trimming beauty cover a bit, Whitbread's guide with single piece of hose is just fine also. I just wanted to avoid it, personal decision.




Put the metering valve back on. Using longer bolts this time with 4mm Allen head, you will secure both metering valve and disaster plate together with 2 bolts. I decided against using anti-seize, since OEM didn't use it, I torqued to 4 Nm (VW says 2 Nm, but I don't have a wrench this fine), and then went back and torqued them to 6.5-7 Nm. I did 6.8 nM, since I like the average.



Okay, now I used that piece of OEM hose and German hose clamps to secure it to disaster plate. Then used a 90-degree 3/8 elbow from Amazon (made by Taisher, here is the link: Amazon.com: TAISHER 2PCS 304 Stainless Steel 90 Degree Elbow Hose Barb Fittings 3/8" Barb x 3/8" Barb for Fuel/AIR/Lquid/Gas with 4PCS Hose Clamp : Industrial & Scientific ) and the rest of the way I ran a small piece of that 3-foot Gates hose I got from O'Reilly's. As you can see, a small amount. Instead of using my 3-way Tee somewhere in the middle, I just removed the OEM line to the left of that small sensor, used a small piece of Gates lines, trimmed down OEM line so that it fits the extra length and made it with Dorman Tee. Then I used Gates line to attach Dorman Tee to Taisher elbow. Then used some zip ties to make the line stay where I needed. I attached the hose to high pressure line which helps to keep it away from beauty cover and also attached the hose to one of larger coolant lines. Overall, looks pretty good.



Final product with Beauty Cover installed is below. I used VCDS to prime the pump for about 30 seconds, then the car started right away without a hitch. Fingers crossed, will get that filter installed sometime this week and will post those pics. Would recommend. Reach out for additional info as needed.

 
Last edited:

BluFalcon

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Location
Kansas
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13 Passat TDI
I just installed the same kit in my 13 Passat TDI. I'm not 100% sure I got it right. Car starts up, but had issues with the instructions provided.

The bolts for the adapter plate on my install were just a bit too long and the metering valve and sandwich plate leaked badly when I primed the engine for the first time. I installed a washer under each bolt head and everything seated and sealed up just fine.

I installed the Tee in the same line as you did, off of the Filter Housing Port (VM) with the Fuel Temp Sensor, going to the inlet of the CP4 Pump.

Unfortunately the photos in the instructions provided weren't of a CKRA engine, so I wasn't sure where the inline filter went. The instructions stated that the filter was to be installed into the return line with the outlet of the filter going back into the main fuel filter.

When I saw this thread, I was really hoping you had installed your filter, so I could avoid making the rest of this post, but alas.

The (RM) port on the filter housing is a return line from the fuel rail/injectors correct? So...I installed the filter there. Only because it was the only return port on the filter housing. I'm pretty sure that was the wrong spot, unfortunately.

If this is the case, I just mangled up a perfectly good hose and the filter isn't doing me any good.

Just wondering where the inline filter is actually supposed to go on a CKRA, and what the part number for the OEM hose that goes from the Filter Housing to the fuel rail is.

I looked on some OEM VW Parts sites, but cant find any parts diagrams or lists for the Fuel Hoses on the engine.

Also nicked the O-ring on my measuring valve when I installed it into the sandwich plate. I flipped the seal around and it's not leaking now, but I'd like to replace it for peace of mind. Can't seem to find a part number for that either.
 

eugene89us

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Very interesting about the leak. Were your bolts black or silver as on my photos? I talked to Barber first, who made the drawings and collaborated with Matt Whitbread and he said they went with slightly shorter bolts which solved the issue.

I the second and third photos from the bottom, you see the line that has Blue writing on it and blue clamp? VW AG MX VZR and 561 130 295 C below it - that is the return line. It collects return diesel from the non-:::: port of HPFP: to the right of my new line, which makes 90 degree turn to the driver side, converts to metal line that also accepts return fuel from injectors. Then becomes common line with blue writing and blue clamp that runs adjacent to the line where you installed the 3 way tee. It completely bypasses filter and returns to the fuel tank. I am still thinking where to install filter on it. Either by the timing cover before it rises to the left toward washer filler neck or by coolant expansion reservoir before it turns down into a quick connector. Will keep you posted.
 

eugene89us

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The RM port that goes into CKRA filter is return from high pressure manifold. With disaster plate, it will be the clean fuel. It will be same fuel you now bypassed with a tee into disaster sandwich plate which then goes into high pressure chamber and through high pressure metal line near oil dipstick to the manifold. The pressure regulator will send some fuel back into filter from it back to RM side of filter. So you're right, that is not the line to install filter into. It won't be contaminated fuel. You want to filter out the fuel that comes from lubrication side of HPFP, the second outlet that does not have :::: marking. Trace that line as I described in first post.
 

BluFalcon

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Kansas
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13 Passat TDI
My kit came with black oxide coated T25 bolts. Installed them and torqued them to 5nm per the instructions. I didn't check to see if the two flanges were flush the first time, and it let me know it wasn't sealed up. I noticed the Valve/adapter assembly was rocking a bit with the bolts torqued down after the fact and added some washers to take up the difference. I'll go to the hardware store at some point and source better washers than what's on there now.

Removed my installed filter/line from the RM port and replaced with some Barricade 3/8 Fuel Hose until I can source a OEM line. For now I'm running it without the inline filter until I get some time to get it installed weather and time permitting. I'm thinking the straight section of hose next to the coolant recovery bottle on the bottom, like you mentioned. It seems to be nice and out of the way.

I thought it was the hose with the blue clamp that branched off from the metal Y line from the pump that got the filter, since it looked like it led back to the tank.
Since that's the whole idea of the filter. To catch all that garbage before it contaminates the rest of the system. But, again the instructions were less than clear on the CKRA install.

Thanks for the heads up and clarification. I do appreciate it.


Very interesting about the leak. Were your bolts black or silver as on my photos? I talked to Barber first, who made the drawings and collaborated with Matt Whitbread and he said they went with slightly shorter bolts which solved the issue.

I the second and third photos from the bottom, you see the line that has Blue writing on it and blue clamp? VW AG MX VZR and 561 130 295 C below it - that is the return line. It collects return diesel from the non-:::: port of HPFP: to the right of my new line, which makes 90 degree turn to the driver side, converts to metal line that also accepts return fuel from injectors. Then becomes common line with blue writing and blue clamp that runs adjacent to the line where you installed the 3 way tee. It completely bypasses filter and returns to the fuel tank. I am still thinking where to install filter on it. Either by the timing cover before it rises to the left toward washer filler neck or by coolant expansion reservoir before it turns down into a quick connector. Will keep you posted.
 

eugene89us

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Hey, @BluFalcon , that makes sense. It appears since your misadventure, Whitbread replaced the bolts with shiny silver kind. You can see the longer bolt above on the picture with metering valve. It is next to 2 original bolts. What I would do is reach out to Matt, he is currently out of town, but he may be able to ship the correct bolts your way. This would no longer necessitate the use of washers to create good seal. As you see on the video, the plate was tightly clamped against the HPFP housing, so new silver bolts are doing a great job. There is often a level of "guinea pig" being an early adopter, issues arise and get fixed with late adopters. But that's how we learn. I ordered 2 spare lines for input (one I used for routing as I described and not much remains of it besides that sensor) and the second line I will keep in my tool cabinet in case reversal becomes necessary for some reason. I also ordered the return line with the blue clamp. It comes combined with input line from tank to filter and both have those quick connects. This way, I will have all the things needed in case of reversal. The part number for that return line combo is 561130295D, you can just google it and find the cheapest VW dealer, they range from $15-22 with around $9 shipping. So you can order the replacement for "mangled" RM line and order the return and intake lines at the same time, that will save you shipping cost and you will have all replacement lines. When I did TB job, I also hear that those quick connects often break if you try to disconnect them. I will keep them in place, but if in process of cutting into line by coolant rez I somehow break one, I will have a spare in that case. Totally worth the peace of mind. Post some pics of your assembly if you don't mind, would help others visualize how your and my versions differ. I anticipate you used a single line from the plate to the 3-way Tee, so your assembly will be missing the 90degree elbow. May actually look cleaner. Did you have to trim the beauty cover as recommended by Matt?
 

eugene89us

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Trouble with Passat is just how cramped everything is. I was holding a small cup when cutting lines to catch diesel, dropped it, and had to use a stick to reach down to push it to the edge. My daily driver also runs 4 cylinder diesel, but same body is made to house 4cyl and 6cyl engines, so once you remove that big "intake silencer" box which sits on rubber grommets, you can fit a small child between radiator and engine. Makes access to serpentine belt, tensioner, EGR and EGR cooler and thermostat very easily. The passenger side is also spacious, may not fit a child there, but you can manage turbo replacement there as it is easily accessible. Now, accessing HPFP on the driver side by firewall is a PIA and requires removal of the electronics box (which if not careful you can mess up especially with their gargantuan connectors) as well as cowling around the windshield, while service on timing chain require full engine pull out which I hope to never need. So I guess you get your wins and losses. At least with CKRA, HPFP is a piece of cake, while turbo is a pain. On my DD it is vice versa. I don't know if installing this plate will be worth the hassle on my DD, though I feel it is a good peace of mind.

Over the years, I have learned BMW quality (though still German, if you know what I mean) is much better than Volkswagen.... Oilhammer will laugh at that statement, but I stand by it. LOL. I still like the Passat, but dang, if it is not one thing, then it is the next.... LOL. And so far, my DD has 110K and Passat has 140k miles, so they are not too far apart either.

 

AverageAndy

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When I did TB job, I also hear that those quick connects often break if you try to disconnect them.
They do break! The first time I tried to gingerly press the tabs in to release one and SNAP -broken. I spent some time trying to figure out how to remove the fuel connector, then just pulled the line off the barb at the filter end. Needless to say, I didn't try to quick release the second one. Good news is, it was still locked on and remains tight, without leaking any fuel. Next TB job I didn't even try to mess with them.
 

eugene89us

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Andy, so you ended up leaving broken connector as-is? I would be scared, who know if somehow the snap could have weakened the assembly. Passat is a little jerk, it likes to break when you are far away from home. For some reason, I decided to purchase weak link parts to keep stocked, especially as CKRA becomes obsolete and parts become non existent. I have a spare turbo, those extra lines, probably need to order all door actuators before they fail, and maybe AC motors that I hear are a piece of junk and like to break. The only thing I am missing is a spare CP4, however since BMW also uses CP4 pump, I think the used and replacement market will remain for them for a while. I am curious though, would a BMW CP4 fit the CKRA engine? Or do they have different connectors and not standardized as everything else in America?
 

AverageAndy

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Phoenix, AZ
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL, 2013 Golf TDI 6MT, 2013 Jetta TDI 6MT (R.I.P.)
Andy, so you ended up leaving broken connector as-is?
Yep, that was 25k+ miles ago without issues or leaking. The part that snapped was one of the tabs that push on the ring lock to deform it enough to release the connector. So really, there is now no easy way to disconnect it as it remains locked on. Trying to unlock it after breaking the tab is what I spent some time on in the first place trying to figure out, thinking I had to disconnect there (first TB job ever, on any car).
 

eugene89us

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Location
Southern USA
TDI
2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
Ahh, makes sense. So it just won't leave you with easy way to deform plastic to disconnect, else it will remain connected until the end of time. Makes sense, you're the one that cautioned me against disconnecting them before I did my TB work, for which I am thankful to you. I ended up just unscrewing the UFI filter housing and just laying the tank onto the engine. Not as convenient, of course, working around the lines, but one less system to mess with and to introduce air into. Also easier to start the car without needing to prime fuel system.
 

BluFalcon

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Location
Kansas
TDI
13 Passat TDI
@eugene89us. I haven't trimmed the engine cover yet, waiting on the replacement line that I mangled and what I'm hoping is a new o-ring for the pressure regulator valve I nicked.

Matt replied to my email and also confirmed I had the filter in the wrong line as well. 😅 He asked me about my hardware issue too.

I'll probably order a replacement return line like you did in case I botch the filter install. I need to figure out a better way to make clean cuts on the hose. My utility knife isnt..."cutting it" evidently.

I'd like to share pics of my install, but don't have them hosted anywhere and I'm sure the board won't allow them to be uploaded.

Again, thanks for your help with this.
 

AverageAndy

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2020
Location
Phoenix, AZ
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL, 2013 Golf TDI 6MT, 2013 Jetta TDI 6MT (R.I.P.)
I'd like to share pics of my install, but don't have them hosted anywhere and I'm sure the board won't allow them to be uploaded.
Just click on the "Media" tab on top, then the orange "Add media" button near the right side. From there, scroll down to the bottom and you can create a new album and upload pictures to it. Then, in your post, use the "Gallery embed" button to add your uploaded picture. I'm sure there is another way, but that is what has worked for me.
 

eugene89us

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Location
Southern USA
TDI
2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
I agree with Andy, I upload all my pics here into Media side, I have different folders for different albums. When making a post, if you want to have all pics show in certain order, you copy URL of each Pic from your album (there will a button to copy image URL) and use photo button above in your post window that has a photo of sun and mountain, you paste URL there and it will insert into post. Or simply upload to album and link the album, it doesn't have to be pretty.

You know, the disaster plate went in smoothly. I lubricated O ring with some diesel and it was like hot knife through butter. Inserting metering valve into the plate was harder. I also had the ring oiled, but there was much more resistance. How did you know the ring got nicked? Once I inserted the metering valve 80% of the way, I used bolts to tighten each side little by little until the whole assembly was flush and tight. Then got my torque wrench and finished the deal.

To make clean cuts, you can buy hose cutter. It is blade on one side and metal semicircle on the other. What I used, however, are my pex cutters. I figured if they cut pex line, they can cut fuel line. Gates fuel line cuts no problem. Original VW line was a PAIN. so you know it is tougher, higher quality no doubt.
 

eugene89us

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Location
Southern USA
TDI
2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
Now, another update to my search for truth. So all inlet lines (they have that alligator skin appearance on the outside) are all 3/8 ID. Hence, when you 3-way them, you need to have 3/8 barb tee and anything else like elbow I used needed to be 3/8. Disaster plate also has 3/8 inlet, so all is perfect.

The outlet - the line with blue clamp - is in fact 5/16 ID. See photo below. It is that part number that comes with 2 lines together. You can even tell the hose with blue writing has smoother and softer pipe appearance. For some reason, VW decided to bring larger pipe in and smaller pipe out. So for the in line filter, you need 5/16th Earl's filter. I ordered 3/8 thinking it is all same, but no, 5/16 is needed.

 

BluFalcon

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Location
Kansas
TDI
13 Passat TDI
@eugene89us

I pulled the valve out of the adapter plate after my first leak check failed due to the long mount bolts and saw a chunk that got cut on the outer edge of the o-ring.

The o-ring was lubed with diesel and went in, but apparently caught on something and got cut.

Didn't have a spare, so I pulled it off and flipped it over to the other side and reinstalled. After getting the washers installed on the mount bolts and everything sealed up, it's holding and not leaking. Just want to get an undamaged seal on there for peace of mind.
 
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eugene89us

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Location
Southern USA
TDI
2014 Volkswagen Passat TDI SEL Premium
Well now you got me worried about the damn o-ring, especially the struggle I had with it struggling to go in... LOL. No point of worrying now, it's not leaking, so I will have to live with it. Plan to install filter this evening, hope to post some more pics.
 

0l0id

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2024
Location
Los Angeles
TDI
2012 VW Golf TDI
@eugene89us , sorry just noticed you have a photo of the same mesh among your images as well...

Anyway, would that mesh be sufficient to catch the ominous maelstrom of metal shards resultant from an HPFP failure?
 
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