CJAA TDI Jetta delete opinions

[ABdiesel]

Recently picked up a 2012 CJAA Jetta that's throwing codes related to a plugged DPF. Naturally I'll just be deleting it entirely and having it tuned. However I wanted to get some opinions about the options I have for an EGR delete. From my understanding the 4 options are A. EGR block off plate, B. block off & EGR valve delete "race pipe", C. block off & EGR + ASV race pipe delete, D. block off, EGR valve delete and EGR cooler delete/bypass.

I'm leaning towards the block off and valve delete while keeping the ASV, but I'm on the fence about whether I want to go through the trouble of entirely removing the cooler. Any recommendations or thoughts on keeping the cooler?

Also if anyone has recommendations on a source for the downpipe/blocker plates, that would be great. I'm in Canada and the best price I've found so far would run me about $1100 CAD/$800 US for everything.

 

[oilhammer]

The easiest way to do this is just to leave the EGR cooler in place, and put the one block off plate they give you on the EGR cooler itself underneath, where the low-pressure pipe went. That way, you needn't mess with a bunch of trying to reroute the cooling hoses. The EGR cooler will just harmlessly hang out right where it was, and is just along for the ride. The high pressure side and everything else remains untouched.

The high pressure EGR tube stays in place, and the valve itself stays in place and is just never opened again.

The only things that get "removed" are the cat/DPF assembly, with the pressure tube/hoses attached, both the EGR pressure differential sensor (the one that screws to the valve cover) and the DPF pressure differential sensor (the one on the bracket above the electric fuel pump), the deNOx catalyst underneath, the exhaust throttle flap, and the final clean up catalyst behind it.

You take the right undershield loose, and unplug the orange EGT sensor connector, the rear lambda sensor connector, and the subharness for the exhaust flap (some cars do not have this subharness, the flap connector is part of that underfloor harness). Tie all that up, wrap it in plastic and tape it up real good and position it back above the plastic shield.

The pipe from the far end (bellhouse) of the EGR cooler, that runs up the backside of the turbo, can just remain in place, and I fill the rubber hose at the end with some sealant and stick the Torx screw in it that held the pressure sensor to the valve cover.

You'll be reusing the one EGT sensor on the downpipe (the orange connector.... different sensor from the one below) and the upper lambda sensor. The EGT sensor on the downpipe with the brown connector goes away. So under the hood, you'll only have three loose connectors to secure: the pressure sensor for the DPF (stuff that connector down below the fuel and coolant lines.... it is in the same harness as the electric fuel pump, which you DO still need), the EGR pressure sensor (zip tie that to the harness that goes to the vane sensor, they come up together), and that brown EGT sensor (which is hidden behind the bracket so it can stay put).

You'll be discarding the lower DPF bracket, but you will be using the upper (smaller) one. This is important, because by now a lot (most) of these cars have already had a DPF replaced, many under warranty, and the dealer techs just LOVE to leave that upper bracket off. Well, it NEEDS to be there, and since the new aftermarket downpipe has no other mounting bracket to the engine (aside from the turbo itself), if you do not put that bracket in place, the downpipe will crack around the welds at the turbo. So if your car is missing that upper bracket, nut, and bolt, order it new and put it on! Also get a new gasket and V-band clamp at the turbo, as the kits do not come with those.

I of course have never done this before, because that is illegal, so this is just what I guess to be the case.. ... I really have no idea.

 

[AverageAndy]

You can buy the downpipe/block off plate hardware made by Flowdirekt in Canada -on MRTuning and Mecevo sites for ~$700 CAD.

Later, you can buy the EGR valve delete if you want, something like this:
VW Golf Mk5 Skoda Seat Jetta for Audi 2.0 Td EGR Delete Valve Pipe Kit | JCarPart

 

[MORTAMIR]

The easiest way to do this is just to leave the EGR cooler in place, and put the one block off plate they give you on the EGR cooler itself underneath, where the low-pressure pipe went. That way, you needn't mess with a bunch of trying to reroute the cooling hoses. The EGR cooler will just harmlessly hang out right where it was, and is just along for the ride. The high pressure side and everything else remains untouched.

The high pressure EGR tube stays in place, and the valve itself stays in place and is just never opened again.

The only things that get "removed" are the cat/DPF assembly, with the pressure tube/hoses attached, both the EGR pressure differential sensor (the one that screws to the valve cover) and the DPF pressure differential sensor (the one on the bracket above the electric fuel pump), the deNOx catalyst underneath, the exhaust throttle flap, and the final clean up catalyst behind it.

You take the right undershield loose, and unplug the orange EGT sensor connector, the rear lambda sensor connector, and the subharness for the exhaust flap (some cars do not have this subharness, the flap connector is part of that underfloor harness). Tie all that up, wrap it in plastic and tape it up real good and position it back above the plastic shield.

The pipe from the far end (bellhouse) of the EGR cooler, that runs up the backside of the turbo, can just remain in place, and I fill the rubber hose at the end with some sealant and stick the Torx screw in it that held the pressure sensor to the valve cover.

You'll be reusing the one EGT sensor on the downpipe (the orange connector.... different sensor from the one below) and the upper lambda sensor. The EGT sensor on the downpipe with the brown connector goes away. So under the hood, you'll only have three loose connectors to secure: the pressure sensor for the DPF (stuff that connector down below the fuel and coolant lines.... it is in the same harness as the electric fuel pump, which you DO still need), the EGR pressure sensor (zip tie that to the harness that goes to the vane sensor, they come up together), and that brown EGT sensor (which is hidden behind the bracket so it can stay put).

You'll be discarding the lower DPF bracket, but you will be using the upper (smaller) one. This is important, because by now a lot (most) of these cars have already had a DPF replaced, many under warranty, and the dealer techs just LOVE to leave that upper bracket off. Well, it NEEDS to be there, and since the new aftermarket downpipe has no other mounting bracket to the engine (aside from the turbo itself), if you do not put that bracket in place, the downpipe will crack around the welds at the turbo. So if your car is missing that upper bracket, nut, and bolt, order it new and put it on! Also get a new gasket and V-band clamp at the turbo, as the kits do not come with those.

I of course have never done this before, because that is illegal, so this is just what I guess to be the case.. ... I really have no idea.

In theory, you need to remove the axle to pull the DPF out?

 

[MrCypherr]

If youre doing this for off-road use, as it only should be used for this.. I would personally delete Hi side EGR, EGR Connecting pipe, EGR Cooler.Thought behind that is, I would just want to remove all the stuff that isnt being used, clean up the area and make it easier to access things.

 

[Tuheeden]

Plus 1 for the flowdirekt exhaust. I love the Rawtek but twice the cost and no real performance benefit. YES take the axle out...it really makes removing the DPF easier. Removing the EGR cooler is not worth the effort but I do agree that removing the high pressure side is worth it. I keep the ASV. When you buy the tune I recommend getting the dynamic idle to help the engine get up to operating temp quicker. The only other upgrade I really like is the CP3 fuel pump.

 

[whatarethose]

Plus 1 for the flowdirekt exhaust. I love the Rawtek but twice the cost and no real performance benefit. YES take the axle out...it really makes removing the DPF easier. Removing the EGR cooler is not worth the effort but I do agree that removing the high pressure side is worth it. I keep the ASV. When you buy the tune I recommend getting the dynamic idle to help the engine get up to operating temp quicker. The only other upgrade I really like is the CP3 fuel pump.

how does the higher idle work with an automatic? is it fine drivability wise? seems like a higher idle would make it want to take off and possibly slam into gear.

 

[oilhammer]

The M-unit and the ECU work in concert to make sure that doesn't happen. And it's already "in gear", it just engages the 1-3-5 clutch on take off to get the car moving.

 

[Tuheeden]

how does the higher idle work with an automatic? is it fine drivability wise? seems like a higher idle would make it want to take off and possibly slam into gear.

The idle is only 1100 when cold and as mentioned the DSG works perfect with it. It really does help in cold weather to warm up quicker, however after it warms up then it idles normal.
Oh, and get the DSG tune! The car drives so much better!!

 

[Phantomofheat]

So under the hood, you'll only have three loose connectors to secure: the pressure sensor for the DPF (stuff that connector down below the fuel and coolant lines.... it is in the same harness as the electric fuel pump, which you DO still need), the EGR pressure sensor (zip tie that to the harness that goes to the vane sensor, they come up together), and that brown EGT sensor (which is hidden behind the bracket so it can stay put).

Just making sure I have this correct. The pressure sensors do not need to be connected? Many guides state to connect them one will have no hoses connected the other will have one connected.

Do they have them connected for any reason?

Edit: Found answer sensors are not needed https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/dpf-delete-are-all-sensors-deleted.530070/