Cjaa stage 2 + cr170 turbo.

Escape.idiocracy

Active member
Joined
Aug 11, 2022
Location
PNW
TDI
CR 2.0
So, I’m kind of at a bit of a loss “expectations” wise.

Stage 2 tune from Stevenson- car ran quick- for a tdi, I was pretty impressed. Tuned at 49k miles, blew the turbo at 55k miles… 🤣😂👍🏼

Running around for the last week with a new cr170 with 52mm wheel- turbo noises have been great. Quickness is gone, (makes sense turbo lags until around 2-2200 rpm’s…)
Top end speed wise jumped. But not like, wow glad I didn’t go with another stock turbo jumped….
(In case it’s asked- yes, I ran the turbo actuator adaptation as soon as the new turbo was put on.)

Car is overall much slower though- is this normal?

I have some pre turbo logs, and can run whatever log with the new turbo. But I’ll be quite honest- I’m better at reading than I am fully understanding what’s going on cause and effect wise.


Any gurus out there willing to tell me what logs to pull and tell me if something is off?


I was advised to get a 4 bar map by the tuner, that will be here tomorrow, and if I get the tune to support the new sensor, I’ll have it installed and uploaded tomorrow night to see if there is any change?? (Though I don’t understand, how aside from the new sensor allowing for higher pressure to be read, this changing anything.)
 

MrCypherr

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Mk6 Wagon
Never heard of it being "slower" after the turbo. Even without the 4bar sensor. Id say the tune might be more on the eco side of things than actually giving you the full power of the turbo. Have never heard anything bad about going up to a CR170.
 

sauron18

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Location
Dominican Republic
TDI
Jetta TDI DSG
I think there is something with the tune. My cjaa is stage 3 custom Xman cr170, Xman turbo damper, 4 bar map, whitbread cp3, 2200 bar sensor, s3 intercooler and a cheap intake. To me it's like going from stock to stage 2 especially in the top end. yeah it sacrifice around 200 rpm in exchange for more top end. My stock turbo was doing 15psi at 4000 rpm and the Xman makes around 25-27psi at those rpm. Overall or after 2000 rpm is faster.
 

Escape.idiocracy

Active member
Joined
Aug 11, 2022
Location
PNW
TDI
CR 2.0
I think there is something with the tune. My cjaa is stage 3 custom Xman cr170, Xman turbo damper, 4 bar map, whitbread cp3, 2200 bar sensor, s3 intercooler and a cheap intake. To me it's like going from stock to stage 2 especially in the top end. yeah it sacrifice around 200 rpm in exchange for more top end. My stock turbo was doing 15psi at 4000 rpm and the Xman makes around 25-27psi at those rpm. Overall or after 2000 rpm is faster.

Who did your Tune? And what is the reasoning for the 4 bar map? I can see why larger turbos would do this- still not really tracking why a cr170 or lower would need the 4 bar if peak boost is 27.5.

Currently I will be reaching out to:
Mrtuning.ca
 

sauron18

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Location
Dominican Republic
TDI
Jetta TDI DSG
Who did your Tune? And what is the reasoning for the 4 bar map? I can see why larger turbos would do this- still not really tracking why a cr170 or lower would need the 4 bar if peak boost is 27.5.

Currently I will be reaching out to:
Mrtuning.ca
This is what Malone told me: Yes we've worked with a few of the xman hybrids, they make another ~10whp up top. I'd recommend running a 4 bar map sensor, they're happier around 1.8bar boost but may spike above 2 bar, so best to data log with VCDS and be able to adjust the actuator with a mityvac worst case.
So i brought the 4 bar sensor with the Xman turbo algonside the installation kit.
 

Escape.idiocracy

Active member
Joined
Aug 11, 2022
Location
PNW
TDI
CR 2.0
This is what Malone told me: Yes we've worked with a few of the xman hybrids, they make another ~10whp up top. I'd recommend running a 4 bar map sensor, they're happier around 1.8bar boost but may spike above 2 bar, so best to data log with VCDS and be able to adjust the actuator with a mityvac worst case.
So i brought the 4 bar sensor with the Xman turbo algonside the installation kit.
I have read/heard in a few places mention 30psi and its recommended to have the head studs replaced/upgraded.. I never put much thought into it- but I’m assuming that is sustained 30psi/2bar. Not spikes.
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
I have read/heard in a few places mention 30psi and its recommended to have the head studs replaced/upgraded.. I never put much thought into it- but I’m assuming that is sustained 30psi/2bar. Not spikes.
the biggest thing i think would be the injection timing.. i've run 30-32psi in my mk1 with no head gasket issues at all with an 1856. stock head bolts. haven't seen a single sign of head lift or gasket problems yet. granted i don't push 30-32psi often, but i've done it enough at this point i think there would have been a problem... but if timing in the tune is too advanced for that boost/rpm and boost control is bad (emp spikes too) then you very likely could have issues. and to re-iterate, there's absolutely no need for a 4bar map for a stock fueled tune on your car. i can't imagine the tune would be pushing more than 80mg fuel, or at least it probably shouldn't be with stock injectors. a 4bar map would be a good idea ideally if you want to consistently push to 30psi but not 100% necessary.
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
spikes are probably the worst. as i'm thinking those often are accompanied by emp spikes and usually at lower rpm, and from various other logs i've seen, too much advance. the 3 killers of head gaskets. with well controlled tune and timing not too advanced, 30psi shouldn't be an issue
 

KERMA

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 23, 2001
Location
here
TDI
currently 99 beetle and 2011 335d
Going for the low-hanging fruit
I'm not guessing or speculating.
Different tune will solve the shudder, to where it's not noticeable or at least greatly reduce it to where it's not intrusive. AND improve power and torque. IOW reducing the torque in the tune is not the correct answer, because it's NOT a transmission problem.
 
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