Cheapest way to fix A/C

[Drewser]

After completing the BSM delete and timing belt, I started the car and AC wasn't working. Just refilled in June so knew I had a leak. I didn't have it in me to take things apart again so took it to my mechanic. I was quickly reminded why I do my own work. Leaking hose, $550 for a new hose, labor, and evac/recharge. All to have the compressor not engage. They want to replace the whole system for a cool $2600.

So I'm picking the car up and doing it myself. $2600 quickly goes over the value of the car with the other stuff we've done, but I live in AZ so A/C is not optional. $1200 of the $2600 was labor, then there's markup on parts, etc. I can do better, even if it won't have the mechanic's warranty.

What's the cheapest way to do this myself? Going to flush evaporator...do I really have to replace everything else? Reman parts ok?

 

[jetta 97]

When you do compressor you need to replace receiver drier and on Passat I believe it has orifice tube instead ex-valve. Those 3 things needs to be done along with compressor to do it proper way.

 

[Drewser]

Can I just flush the condenser? Do I need to add oil before connecting hoses or can it be done after and before recharge? I'll have mechanic actually pull vacuum and recharge it, but I'll have it all ready.

 

[UhOh]

My understanding is that flushing is only required when there's an obvious failure that introduces crap into the system: my only knowledge is of people talking about "black stuff." Having it evac'd will show whether this is an issue or not.

ANY component that is removed has a specified amount of oil that is to be added with a new part (most compressors, however, come with that amount of oil already). I'd thought that oil can be injected during a recharge, but when I had someone do it (and I had given him the amount of oil to add) I was told that it has to happen before charging: I'd done this with another car when I replaced the drier; I also recharged myself.

As to what you should change, on my MKIV TDI I replaced the compressor (suspected bad, but now am no sure- doesn't matter now), drier (always if system is open for an extended period of time) and evaporator (seems to be recommended if it's old). I also replaced the condenser because I'd broke the stupid line to the drier (bolt holding the line was corroded tighter than a drum). And here's where my empathy kicks in... My A/C didn't work once charged. Blew fuses. Coil in brand new compressor is BAD: I'd replaced the harness connector and got wires reversed, but folks tell me the coil doesn't care about polarity (I still cannot absolve myself of causing the failure; but, doesn't matter as the cheapest route to resolve all this is repalcing the coil, a $30 cost vs swapping the compressor- evac and recharge will far exceed that cost). Fortunately I don't have to evac and recharge for my fix.

 

[zzdiesel]

If there is adequate pressure in the system from the recharge, then the compressor not starting is likely a electrical problem. Do you get 12 volts at the compressor? I realize it is buried pretty deep if not in the service position. Still, that would be my 1st step. Second actually as 1st would be checking the system pressure. You need a gauge set. Harbor freight or amazon have something that should work for 40.00

 

[DonL]

My AC was not working right after the timing belt change but it was because the left radiator fan had died. I replaced it myself, taking advantage of youtube videos. You have to do it from under the car for my year, which meant removing the aluminum skid plate. The fan was outrageously expensive getting from the VW dealer in Henderson.

 

[Drewser]

If there is adequate pressure in the system from the recharge, then the compressor not starting is likely a electrical problem. Do you get 12 volts at the compressor? I realize it is buried pretty deep if not in the service position. Still, that would be my 1st step. Second actually as 1st would be checking the system pressure. You need a gauge set. Harbor freight or amazon have something that should work for 40.00

Mechanic recharged it with gauges. Checked for 12v too. Said they could see clutch trying to engage but wasn't engaging.

 

[Andyinchville1]

HI,

If the AC worked for about 3 months before stopping, the cheapest way to have AC may be just fill it up to get it running and then filling it as needed to keep it working (of course this assumes the leak is not too horrible bad.... if so maybe try some stop leak) ? ...

If all that doesn't work you needed to get it fixed anyways right ? so the extra time bought with the band aid "fix" you'd only be out the cost of materials if you can fill it yourself.

I used to do that years ago with an old car I had ... fill it (or at least add freon 2 or 3 times a year) and it was good to go.... car lasted years that way until I sold it

Actually, I just sayw that the system was recharged but not working so I guess the leak was fixed but just not working?

Andrew

 

[Drewser]

Yeah, they replaced the leaky hose and recharged but compressor wouldn't engage. So wondering what the cheapest option to fix is. New compressor and...

 

[Mozambiquer]

Sounds like I would verify everything the shop said... Start from square one with the diagnostics.
There's a common relay that fails that can cause AC failure that could be another thing to check.
Honestly, I very seldom trust what mechanics shops tell me. You wouldn't believe how many times we get a vehicle in our shop and the customer tells us that a different shop has worked on it and said that the issue was x, we get into it and find something completely different. One example was a few months ago a customer towed their truck in from a Chevy dealer (it was a 2008 Chevy Duramax) they told them that the ecm and TCM were fried. They weren't sure why, maybe it got struck by lightning... We did some very simple diagnostics (checked for power at the ECM/TCM) and found no power, a quick look at the wiring diagram found a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse and sent them on their way.
Not saying that the shop that diagnosed your car isn't right for sure, but I would sure verify before throwing parts at it.
With that price quote, it sounds to me like they just wanted you out of there, as I cannot fathom how it could cost that much to replace the compressor, dryer and h-block. $1200 in labor for a job that's not that bad.

 

[Drewser]

This is the same shop that said this car had a blown head gasket and told the customer they needed a new engine. That's why I got it for $300 and fixed it with your EGR cooler. So starting at square 1 probably isn't a bad idea. AC is something I've never really learned so I'll have to do some reading on gauges, vacuum pump, etc. I had them evacuate it before I was too pick it up just so I wouldn't release any to the atmosphere when I cracked the system open. So I'd have to recharge to check things. Wish there was a Bentley for it...

 

[50harleyrider]

I've had good luck with the Rockauto compressor, dryer and expansion valve kits. Under $500

 

[Drewser]

I've had good luck with the Rockauto compressor, dryer and expansion valve kits. Under $500

This was a good tip. In for about $300 for all parts to redo the system, will be here Thursday. Going to start a new thread asking about procedure...not having a bentley for refrigerant amounts, oil amounts, torque specs, etc. is annoying.