Changing cv boots..easier way?

[drywaller]

Hi all. I need to change the cv boot on the passenger side of my 2004 jetta (5 speed tip)
I have seen videos on youtube showing three different ways. One involves removing the lower ball joint. The other involves removing the lower end of the strut. The third shows removing the two bolts that hold the lower control arm to the car.
I know the first two methods would require an alignment when done with the job. The third method, as best I can tell would not change the alignment at all.
Has anyone used the third method with no change in alignment?
Are there any other ways to do this that would not affect alignment?
Im on a shoestring budget and am hoping I can avert spending $70 on an alignment.
Thanks for any and all help.

 

[bbbbbq]

Do it the ball joint way. Paint the underside of the ball joint where it connects to the control arm so you can retain (as close as you can) the original alignment. Lower end of the strut can be a pain, and I wouldn't touch the control arm bolts if you don't have to.

 

[Davegsm82]

Seconded, mark the position of the 3 bolts under the lower ball joint on the control arm and the cast piece of the ball joint itself.

Make sure you loosen the hub nut with the wheel on the ground, it will be very tight, but once it's loose don't roll/drive the car as you can damage the bearing.

 

[drywaller]

OK. Thanks for the advice. I am going to tackle this as soon as my clamp pliers show up.
I am also waiting on the outboard boot. Figure while I have it out I better do both ends.

 

[RacerTodd]

I don't know if this applies to a triptronic trans in a 2004, not sure if they use the tripod joints or not or if the downpipe on a BEW limits clearance.

On my 5-speed 2001, ALH engine, there is no need to mess with ball joints or control arm bolts when removing the passenger side axle.

What I do is loosen the axle nut with the car on the ground. Jack car up, remove wheel.
The outer joint sometimes gets stuck in the hub so I make sure the joint is loose. A quick hit with my 3lb sledge sometimes works or I have a CV joint press tool that breaks it loose.
Remove belly pan.
Remove the plastic shield over the CV joint.
Loosen the CV joint bolts.
Turn steering wheel all the way to the right.
Raise the inner CV joint up until it clears the flange. Pull the axle back and out of the hub. The key is turning the steering wheel to the stop - that gives the clearance to get the axle out of the hub. If the wheels are straight, you can't pull the axle back far enough.
Once the outer joint comes out of the hub, there is just enough room to get it to clear the spindle - and it's out.

Installation is the reverse. Keep the wheels pointed right. Slide under the car holding the axle. Put the inner end up above the flange. Guide the outer joint into the hub. I turn the wheels straight at this point. Re-attach the CV bolts, etc.....

 

[drywaller]

I don't know if this applies to a triptronic trans in a 2004, not sure if they use the tripod joints or not or if the downpipe on a BEW limits clearance.

On my 5-speed 2001, ALH engine, there is no need to mess with ball joints or control arm bolts when removing the passenger side axle.

What I do is loosen the axle nut with the car on the ground. Jack car up, remove wheel.
The outer joint sometimes gets stuck in the hub so I make sure the joint is loose. A quick hit with my 3lb sledge sometimes works or I have a CV joint press tool that breaks it loose.
Remove belly pan.
Remove the plastic shield over the CV joint.
Loosen the CV joint bolts.
Turn steering wheel all the way to the right.
Raise the inner CV joint up until it clears the flange. Pull the axle back and out of the hub. The key is turning the steering wheel to the stop - that gives the clearance to get the axle out of the hub. If the wheels are straight, you can't pull the axle back far enough.
Once the outer joint comes out of the hub, there is just enough room to get it to clear the spindle - and it's out.

Installation is the reverse. Keep the wheels pointed right. Slide under the car holding the axle. Put the inner end up above the flange. Guide the outer joint into the hub. I turn the wheels straight at this point. Re-attach the CV bolts, etc.....

When I get to mine I will try this method. Thanks for the reply.

 

[drywaller]

Just wanted to give a heads up on my CV boot repair. Turns out the above method worked like a charm. Only thing I had to do different was remove the heat shield above the CV joint so I could raise the axle high enough to gain the room needed to get the axle out.
Hope this helps anyone that might be tackling this job.

 

[joncfinney]

what clamp pliers did you get and where thanks

 

[drywaller]

what clamp pliers did you get and where thanks

I bought the pliers off eBay. They are made by KD tools.
I'm not very happy with them as the jaws deformed after the first crimp.
If you are in the market for a pair I would not skimp.
If you do buy a pair please post up what you get as I want to get a replacement pair.

 

[Tom Brown]

I'm about to replace the driver's side boot.

Do I need to remove the axle? If the outer joint moves, can I remove the outer joint from the axle while the rest stays on the car?

 

[drywaller]

I'm about to replace the driver's side boot.

Do I need to remove the axle? If the outer joint moves, can I remove the outer joint from the axle while the rest stays on the car?

The boot I changed is on my 2005 mk5 Jetta with automatic. Passenger side came off without removing the hub/ball joint assembly.
The drivers side I had to remove the lower ball joint to gain enough room to get the axle out.
As for separating the axle while on the car...if you figure that one out please post up the details. I for one do not see a way for that to be done. Removing the ball joint is an easy task and offers up so much more room to navigate the axle out.
Good luck.

 

[joep1234]

Undo the bolts on the trans side after you loosen the spindle nut before you jack up the car. The shaft should come out without any problem unless you live in the rust belt. If so, use some Freeze Off or the like and use a rubber hammer to tap out the spindle. Be sure to go to the dealer or NAPA for a new spindle nut. These aren't reusable. Ask me how I know. I tried once and ruined a wheel bearing in less than 2 weeks and almost had the shaft fall out because the nut backed off. The NAPA nut is the aircraft type with nylon at the outer side keeping it in place.

 

[Tom Brown]

I can't get the axle out of the transmission. All bolts are out. I put a wood block against it and gave it some nice cracks with a hammer. So far, nothing has worked.

I haven't really whaled on it, though. Also, I just realized the car has been in park the entire time. Perhaps it won't come out unless it's in neutral?

Any ideas? I don't mind beating on the shaft and ruining it. They aren't particularly expensive but I want to be delicate with the transaxle.