CCV Tube Replacement
A few weeks ago, I posted a custom replacement (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=126631) for a cracked ccv tube based on the drawings by Wypij (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=118821&highlight=CCV+tube). That worked, but I decided to try to improve it. After several evenings and a few weekends with a friend that's a CNC programmer, we've come up with what we think is a improved version. Here's the engine side of the part we built:
The custom piece is made of 1/2" aluminum. The elbow is attached with threads at an angle to reproduce the angle of the original pipe. The same O ring as before fits nicely in a groove around the hole on the inside. A galvanized elbow and copper adapter connect to a hose that leads up to the ccv. All threaded connections were treated with high-temp thread lock.
This updated version has been on my car for over a month and is working well. No leaks are visible anywhere, and engine oil level is stable.
This version uses a different hose than before that fits over the original ccv tube at the top and is easier to install. The previous version fit inside the ccv tube and required silicone to provide a good seal. Here are all the parts used in this solution and a closer view of our custom part.
Tools needed for installation:
Hacksaw
Small flat-blade screwdriver
6 mm hex key
1.) Saw the pipe near its top connection point, leaving a 1 inch stub.
2.) Use the hex key to remove the 2 bolts attaching the pipe to the engine block. Make sure the washers come off with the bolts; they have a tendency to stay stuck to the bolt holes.
3.) Remove the pipe from the engine by pulling it straight out.
4.) Clean off any leaked oil. Electric parts cleaner works well for this, because it can dissolve oil and grease without damaging rubber hoses or wire insulation.
5.) Attach the custom part using the original bolts. A small drop of grease in the head of the bolt can be helpful in preventing it from falling off the hex key.
6.) Slide the hose over the top stub, routing as shown in the photograph, and secure it with the included hose clamp.
7.) Push the other end of the hose onto the stub of the original pipe. This is a tight fit, so you may wish to place a bit of oil on the plastic stub to make it easier to slide the hose onto it.
A few people have asked about putting together a production run of this part. My friend arranged for some time at the mill for a production run. For simple installation, I'll put together a kit with the needed parts. Since you really need a vise to put the metal parts together, I'll do that so it will arrive assembled.
Updated ordering info:
Each kit costs $40. Shipping for one kit to anywhere in the US will be an additional $7.05. For payment, cashier check or money orders is fine. I can't do credit cards, but non-credit card Paypal is fine. To order, send me a PM with your preferred payment method and shipping address.
Thanks,
Bryan
A few weeks ago, I posted a custom replacement (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=126631) for a cracked ccv tube based on the drawings by Wypij (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=118821&highlight=CCV+tube). That worked, but I decided to try to improve it. After several evenings and a few weekends with a friend that's a CNC programmer, we've come up with what we think is a improved version. Here's the engine side of the part we built:
The custom piece is made of 1/2" aluminum. The elbow is attached with threads at an angle to reproduce the angle of the original pipe. The same O ring as before fits nicely in a groove around the hole on the inside. A galvanized elbow and copper adapter connect to a hose that leads up to the ccv. All threaded connections were treated with high-temp thread lock.
This updated version has been on my car for over a month and is working well. No leaks are visible anywhere, and engine oil level is stable.
This version uses a different hose than before that fits over the original ccv tube at the top and is easier to install. The previous version fit inside the ccv tube and required silicone to provide a good seal. Here are all the parts used in this solution and a closer view of our custom part.
Tools needed for installation:
Hacksaw
Small flat-blade screwdriver
6 mm hex key
1.) Saw the pipe near its top connection point, leaving a 1 inch stub.
2.) Use the hex key to remove the 2 bolts attaching the pipe to the engine block. Make sure the washers come off with the bolts; they have a tendency to stay stuck to the bolt holes.
3.) Remove the pipe from the engine by pulling it straight out.
4.) Clean off any leaked oil. Electric parts cleaner works well for this, because it can dissolve oil and grease without damaging rubber hoses or wire insulation.
5.) Attach the custom part using the original bolts. A small drop of grease in the head of the bolt can be helpful in preventing it from falling off the hex key.
6.) Slide the hose over the top stub, routing as shown in the photograph, and secure it with the included hose clamp.
7.) Push the other end of the hose onto the stub of the original pipe. This is a tight fit, so you may wish to place a bit of oil on the plastic stub to make it easier to slide the hose onto it.
A few people have asked about putting together a production run of this part. My friend arranged for some time at the mill for a production run. For simple installation, I'll put together a kit with the needed parts. Since you really need a vise to put the metal parts together, I'll do that so it will arrive assembled.
Updated ordering info:
Each kit costs $40. Shipping for one kit to anywhere in the US will be an additional $7.05. For payment, cashier check or money orders is fine. I can't do credit cards, but non-credit card Paypal is fine. To order, send me a PM with your preferred payment method and shipping address.
Thanks,
Bryan
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