CCV by-pass...photos how you did it?

[thechoochlyman]

Changing that value upped my MAF specified from 250 to 350. My actual flow rate is over 460. It killed the CEL from that point, because it always came on shortly after starting my car. But now I'm getting that new code and CEL, but hours after running the car.

 

[RIP TDI]

That's pretty typical, it reduces the frequency of the CEL but it comes back under the right conditions. Here's a possible solution for you.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Right, I've read that thread a few times already. haha I guess I'll try to rig up something like that eventually...

Can you order a rocketchip to tune that out?

 

[ketchupshirt88]

I would think that all the major tuners here would do an EGR delete except maybe APR which nobody uses for TDI's anyways...

right offhand, i know Malone lists EGR delete on website.

 

[Abacus]

Yes, my RC and Makone tunes have it turned off.

 

[Steve Addy]

Here's how I installed the eclipse unit. I didn't delete the lower ccv tube, just patched in the eclipse on the outbound side of the puck and still connects to the intake tube. I'm still able to use the engine cover too.

 

[bblume]

That looks clean Steve!

 

[Steve Addy]

That looks clean Steve!

It's great for summer but not too good for winter.

If I had a choice for location I would have placed it down back somewhere so that it would be protected and might have been usable during the winter, but it was much easier to mount it where it is and take it out for cold weather, although one winter I completely forgot about it....

Steve

 

[thechoochlyman]

Those of you who have completely bypassed your CCV tube like I did - have you noticed any increase in MPG? I seemed to have picked up a 1.5 MPG average since this has been done, and I can't think of anything else that would have helped that much. I did clean my intake, but it wasn't even that bad compared to some I've seen. But it makes sense to me - the engine is only taking in clean oxygenated air instead of blowby gasses mixed in.

 

[thechoochlyman]

I'm revisiting this project now with some different materials. The galvanized pipe has been seeping out a bit of oil where they mate, so I ordered some new brass stuff on Amazon and JB Kwik to seal it with. I also need to find something to replace the 1" ID heater hose with, as it seems to sweat out oily residue.

EDIT: The 2" 1/2 NPT pipe is too short, be sure to get a 3" pipe!

 

[vanbcguy]

There's a different grade of hose available for PVC use - heater hose definitely isn't oil resistant.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

 

[thechoochlyman]

I put it back together with reinforced PVC tubing today, hopefully that'll do the trick.

 

[ToddA1]

My factory vent broke off at the flange.... it's been a while, so the details are a bit hazy. This is the 2nd version.

I used a breather plate and gasket from an old 1.6d. Cut the factory tube off and drilled a hole at an angle. Used a copper street pipe... I think it was a 45°. JB Welded the street pipe in at an angle.




I cut the factory vent pipe to meet the lower flange. I used a 3"(?) section of 1" heater hose, but it's beginning to sweat through. I'll worry about it later.

From the top, it looks stock. You'd need to look down and then you'd notice the 2 hose clamps. Still plumbed into the TIP.

-Todd

 

[Filmshoot]

I love all these ways to reduce the plastic in our engine setup.
I read that some people were trying to adapt a 1.6 aluminum flange for their 1z motor, to replace the plastic flange. Here is the part number 068121145k
Does anyone know if this is successful? How do you replace the 2 wire sensor on the 1z plastic flange to fit the new aluminum smaller threaded hole?

Inscribed with just two thumbs...

 

[Filmshoot]

Here are the pix on my afn engine

Inscribed with just two thumbs...

 

[Filmshoot]

Here are a couple mentions of it
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=633128&start=0

But it looks like they went a different route.
http://www.vanagondiesel.info/index.php/MTDI_AHU_Conversion_Notes


Would it be possible to replace the oem coolant sensor with a generic npt style coolant temp sensor? Would the ecu understand the signal?
https://m.summitracing.com/search/part-type/coolant-temperature-sensors/coolant-temperature-sensor-thread-size-in/3-8-in-npt




Inscribed with just two thumbs...

 

[thechoochlyman]

This one doesn't have a lower hose barb, does it? PN 068121145k

This is the one that the Vanagon conversion guy was trying to use, PN 068-121-133M.

The issue he ran into with the latter flange was interference between the lower barb and injection lines.

That's when he approached me to make him a custom flange with the correct 1Z barb orientation but with a tapped hole for the old-style sensor.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Would it be possible to replace the oem coolant sensor with a generic npt style coolant temp sensor? Would the ecu understand the signal?
https://m.summitracing.com/search/p...-temperature-sensor-thread-size-in/3-8-in-npt




Inscribed with just two thumbs...

Unfortunately there is no such thing as a generic temp sensor. Based on the 3 curves in the same family of ECUs, here are the details as to the desired electrical response:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=5071140&postcount=43
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=5081351&postcount=64

Having a datasheet is infinitely more useful and accurate for converting an existing map over to a new sensor.

 

[Filmshoot]

Nice work!

Inscribed with just two thumbs...

 

[ketchupshirt88]

here's my latest changes, yes i know its a plumbers nightmare, made of actual plumbing supplies... but it works well enough judging by the oil trapped in the canister every few thousand miles.

i will be rearranging it, again, when i swap turbos because i'll probably have to change the turbo inlet pipe anyway. Currently, the braided SS line is 3/4 and the rest is reduced down to 1/2.

I will switch it all to 1/2 and use a smaller canister strainer when i do it again, 5th times the charm right?

a question though, can the CCV gasses be added anywhere in the intake track or does it need to be before the turbo???

I had it vented to atmosphere for a week because i couldnt find the fitting i wanted, and it smelled of death, hot oil, and cancer so i will definitely be plumbing it back in somewhere rather than venting it out.

 

[ToddA1]

Definitely function over form!

Moroso used to sell a breather and barbs that you would weld into your exhaust. Supposedly, it would increase piston ring sealling and increase horsepower.

-Todd

 

[ketchupshirt88]

nothing in my car is pretty... but it all works well enough... lol

a question though, can the CCV gasses be added anywhere in the intake track or does it need to be before the turbo???

i turned off my brain for a second there:

It must have to be pre-turbo so the boost pressure isnt flowing backward into the CCV path... unless i do as Todd mentioned, and plumb it into the exhaust... possibly at 5th injector site.

 

[vanbcguy]

Definitely function over form!

Moroso used to sell a breather and barbs that you would weld into your exhaust. Supposedly, it would increase piston ring sealling and increase horsepower.

-Todd

I was thinking about going that route when I was building my engine a while back. Moroso say on their docs that it needs to be plumbed in post muffler or the back pressure will prevent things from working properly. Figured that'd be a bit excessive to plumb in so I abandoned the idea. If you're running a straight pipe it'd probably work great.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

 

[Steve Addy]

I was thinking about going that route when I was building my engine a while back. Moroso say on their docs that it needs to be plumbed in post muffler or the back pressure will prevent things from working properly. Figured that'd be a bit excessive to plumb in so I abandoned the idea. If you're running a straight pipe it'd probably work great.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

Ditto, I can see a ccv pipe extending all the way to the rear of the car to get behind the last muffler...lol

Steve

 

[ToddA1]

Why not just a vapor rated rubber hose?

-Todd

 

[Steve Addy]

Why not just a vapor rated rubber hose?

-Todd

It certainly could be, I was really just being sarcastic.

I wouldn't consider a solution where I'd have to plumb it all the way to the back of the car with anything, hose or pipe.

Steve

 

[markd89]

here's my latest changes, yes i know its a plumbers nightmare, made of actual plumbing supplies... but it works well enough judging by the oil trapped in the canister every few thousand miles.

i will be rearranging it, again, when i swap turbos because i'll probably have to change the turbo inlet pipe anyway. Currently, the braided SS line is 3/4 and the rest is reduced down to 1/2.

I will switch it all to 1/2 and use a smaller canister strainer when i do it again, 5th times the charm right?

a question though, can the CCV gasses be added anywhere in the intake track or does it need to be before the turbo???

I had it vented to atmosphere for a week because i couldnt find the fitting i wanted, and it smelled of death, hot oil, and cancer so i will definitely be plumbing it back in somewhere rather than venting it out.

Did you find a setup which worked?

What did you use for the hose?

The picture from your last post is broken.

Thanks!

 

[ketchupshirt88]

That car was retired for rust issues years ago now...

if I recall correctly, I had the machined plate at the bottom, with a hydraulic hose going up to a "T" I had threaded onto the valve cover. From there it just went into the turbo inlet pipe. Later on I added a loop with a catch after the "T" but before it got to the turbo inlet pipe.

 

[Steve Addy]

I'd post up mine from #36 above but I've been unable to locate that photo in the batch of pics I was able to get back from photobucket when they went nasty.

If I find it I'll fix the url in #36.

Steve