CBEA P0299 after engine replacement and new turbo VNT actuator

[farnhamassoc]

Well I replaced it and it is still not right but for some reason it is Better? IDK I can actually drive it now. Last night before I changed it I had to stop every mile or so turn off the engine then restart because it just would not go anywhere. Now feather the gas and your off to the races. just about every light I need to do it but sometimes it just goes. I do have another issue.....Trans clutches. Were not going there right now. Might be getting an F U signal from the trans. when I hit the gas then the second or 3rd time it decides its ok I will let you have boost. IDK.

I had code I think it was p2711 implausible gear shift disengagement....2 years ago I could not find any information of what that is. Now I know it is clutches. Searched it and nada. Now it is everywhere.

I had that code but drove it for 2 years like that just babied the clutches. while driving there was no issues. just when I came up to a light it would click then I would let off the brake and reapply to keep it from going into trans limp PRNDS flashing. Worked like a champ.
The reason I wanted to put in a USED engine and trans was because I was on the freeway when the oil pump hex shaft went bad. Got right over but I really was not sure about the bottom end. or any of the internal engine parts. I removed the pan and put a new shaft in as a temporary repair. Just to see. No grey or silver in the oil. But the turbo was noisy after I restarted it.

So I was going to Can the car because the engine and trans both had expensive issues. Then I saw a wrecked car with an engine and trans with 86k miles on facebook marketplace. I asked the guy how much for the complete engne and trans with turbo. 1200.... so I figured this would be cost effective to do since I had done the emissions scandal and had no codes other than the trans which I was swapping.

Didnt work out that way......Trans was trash all the plastic parts were malted lava in the bottom of it.....NO signs of any of that from the outside. Turbo was tight but vanes were stuck (replaced with my old one new total rebuild with new professionally balanced high quality cartridge), alternator trash, almost every part that was on the engine was bad. I was just getting ready to do the timing belt and CP3 conversion before this happened. So I had a full German kit. One at a time I had to replace the parts with my old parts or buy new ones. The first clue was every pan bolt was hand tight....When I did the oil pump upgrade I found that out. Valve cover bolts were loose. None of which I knew until after I put the engine in the car. When I got the first clue I decided to go CHEAP on the trans clutches. because I didnt want to spend so all this money on a motor that was junk. After I did lots more work to it I realized the engine was low miles. Just sat for a long time before I got it and they knew that trans was bad. A H's
Well anyway there is much more to this story but FYI. I Never usually buy cheap parts. Only OEM or German. Other than the CP3 which that guy has sold tons of them and I have not heard anything bad about those....His other parts IDK....

So anyway Trans wont adapt. Computer does not like the Transpeed clutches. Shifts like crap and I think that might be effecting the drivability now.

 

[TurboABA]

I think I once read somewhere that you can remove your EGR solenoid and swap it out with the N75 to validate that your N75 is crap..... if your turbo comes back to life, you've verified that the N75 is flaky\faulty.

 

[TurboABA]

I don't know what kind of heap you're dealing with over there, but I'm shocked that all these "additional" issues are only being mentioned now..... If you'd start your troubleshooting by addressing all known issues, it would probably be easier.... now you're talking about electrical gremlins, cheap mechanical parts, slusboxes, yaddy yadda.....

You have VCDS and it will give you a full report of what issues it sees. Fix\address all of them before guessing at the rest... or at least one at a time and then re-scan and repeat until they are all gone. You can do output tests and logs of any component that you suspect in order to flush out funny things.... you have way too many things going on to fix some issue which could be a side effect of these other 12 things you've been ignoring or zip-tying all along.

 

[farnhamassoc]

I am pretty certain that the n75 was faulty. However I adapted the other parts with a faulty N75.....So were they adapted correctly? FYI...It does run better now. Much better but not right. I drove it around the last day or so because it does drive now. It was not really drivable before the n75 replacement. I may do a scan to see what codes show up now. Only engine code was p299 when I just dont baby it. Trans code was something like clutches out of range. FYI EVERY other part was original German other than the clutches.....
Oh one question where is the N75 located for the EGR....I was not aware there was a second....With the faulty parts on the second engine I will need to make sure it did not come off of it.

 

[TurboABA]

This is where I read that.....

How to check n75 valve?

I have a complete loss of turbo boost. Had a broken nipple on the check valve between the vac pump and brake booster, has been replaced. Replaced a very frayed vac line between the n75 and turbo gate activator. Have good vac level up to the valve, and if i bypass it, connecting the vac line...

forums.tdiclub.com

Actually, now that I think about it, the new EGR valves are all electric, so you can scrap that idea.

 

[farnhamassoc]

ahhh that makes sense. I dont recall seeing any other N75....

 

[farnhamassoc]

I replaced the clutches to rule out the issues. there IT shifts better. OEM from Cascade German. Used dial indicator and shims as per factory spec. Now that is PERFECT....Adapted all adaptions Done....But still have drivability problem with feathering the gas pedal. Feather the gas and feels like something opens and off to the races. Drove it to Orange county 100 mile trip. Got the Malone tune for the fuel system to rule that out because I was going to do that anyway. and got these NEW codes....P2101 P2102 p2100 for the throttle control valve. Earlier I did remove the intake to check the flaps on the manifold which did look OK flapper was moving freely and sprung to the open position as I think IT should. My question is the intake flapper is normally sprung to the open position. On my other car BRM, I thought that valve was for when you shut off the engine to shut off air. Does it move with engine RPM....

 

[farnhamassoc]

I guess the wire plug was not quite all the way snapped in when I removed the intake manifold was falling out. probably from all the fuss removing the infamous trans.. I replugged it and adapted the Flap according to VCDS website. Key on engine off and waited through the sequence. Now there is no codes again and still drivability problem. Feather the gas and then it goes off to the races.

 

[farnhamassoc]

This has been the worst possible luck EVER........Here is the data from the VCDS while its happening. I put a T in the vacuum line to the VNT. There is now a constant 20 plus Inches of vacuum to the turbo VNT the VNT actuator moved up and down with vacuum as it should. VCDS reads 1200 actual boost and 2000 Requested or whatever its called. With or without the exhaust connected. SO *** is it...... What can it be. The only thing I can think of is it is F.... TURBO. This guy does them all the time. The actuator arm must be misaligned with the Veins or loose or missing or veins are stuck. The arm does move freely either it is on the VNT actuator or on it. I have removed the VNT and moved the arm there is no binding or hard spots. I am going to double check it again tomorrow. Was getting dark I dont want to be wrong. It does have a warranty but who the hell cares when you need to do it again. Labor is intense to get that sucker out.

 

[TurboABA]

I'm not following. How can the veins be stuck if you say the actuator moves and the arm\linkage moves?

 

[farnhamassoc]

IM going to try that again today but, . I tried the actuator arm with the VNT removed before and it all works freely. I have moved the arm up and down no resistance. uses a vacuum pump and the VNT moves perfectly smooth not stop points. I Did this with the valve cover off so I could really feel it. This is the first place I looked, Then changed the VNT with another one from my first engine that worked fine checked it too before I installed it and adjusted it. Can the Actuator arm be not touching inside the veins. or bent inside where I cant see it.? Of course I didnt do any of that part so I just put a VNT on it. From what I can tell in photos it does not look like you could install it wrong the Cartridge would not seat on the Manifold.

 

[farnhamassoc]

put 15 inches of vacuum to the actuator using a mighty vac. and car drives almost like normal but the limp light goes on. cant be the actuator or play in it. No hesitation. no feathering just goes when I hit the gas seems almost normal.

 

[TurboABA]

Can you not look at the arm using a mirror while running output tests on the N75 to see if it actually adjusts the VNT instead of all this bench testing and bypassing you're doing?

 

[TurboABA]

Inputs into ECU should be
Intake manifold temperature sensor G72
Engine speed sensor G28 (can't be an issue because the car wouldn't start if it failed)
Altitude sensor (integrated in engine control unit)
Intake manifold pressure sensor (integrated in engine control unit)

Output should be
Solenoid valve for charge pressure limitation N75

Log all those vs your rpm\boost and let's see what's not playing nice (on top of looking at the VNT arm and ensuring that it moves as per above)

I'm starting to suspect the Altitude sensor.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Ok I will see if I can get someone to run the output test while I look at it. I do hear changes in the engine while it is doing the test. Like what it sounds like when I manually use vacuum to move the VNT.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Here is the log from the VNT adaption.
www.Ross-Tech.com





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Address 01: Engine (03L 997 030 H)

16:47:12 Group 120: Turbo Charger Boost Control Solenoid (G581/N75) Adaptation
-12.6 %
11.8 %
01110110
1.140 V
Im not sure if that is normal or helpful in any way. Let me check the actuator for movement next reply

 

[farnhamassoc]

Thanks again for your help turbo.
I am on hold for a day or so.....Got the best news ever.....OIL LIGHT came on. need to check oil pressure to make sure it is not the worst engine investment ever in the world. OMG. This puzzle will be super fun when we get it. I dont see any signs of engine wear changed the pump prior to all this to the Kit from Kerma that deletes the most horrible engineering feat in mankind. The balance shaft delete. OMG what were they thinking CBEA 2 times engine rpm for a oil pump. Never seen that in any engine ever. But it did last 267k in my old engine (from what I read I think that is a record) . THe one in this one was still a hex. not totally rounded but worn. Definitely still working and not spinning in the hole.. I think the sender is Fragged. but I want a gauge to tell me everybody is happy so I ordered a Long one on a hose. I only have the one that screws in the hole without the extension. Even if I need to slide a set of bearings in there I am going to make a go of it. just so We can say we did.
No signs of low oil pressure. Oil level is fine. Pentosin 5-30 507 spec in the pot. No funny noises. We should be ok but I want to see numbers before I put in a sender. Turbo not making a peep either. OMG if that sucker frags I may throw in the towel.

 

[TurboABA]

Not sure what you're up to with adaptation.....
You should be running output test, where you can see the RPM increase to something like 1400-1500 I think, and the charge load % on boost should change between ON / OFF cycles, to something between very low (5% or so) to something in the middle of the scale, probably 40-50% or something. I don't expect the engine to be able to load reach full boost without a load, so I'm guessing at the values that I'm throwing around.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Yea I was going to do that output test then the oil light came on. I cant remember the output test number for the VNT I did do it once but I didnt look at the VNT while I was doing it a while back. I will look it up after I get the good or really bad news on oil pressure.

 

[farnhamassoc]

YIKES...Oil pressure was at 60lbs per the gauge. swedge clamp on the new gauge failed and popped off while testing. took about 10 seconds for me to get the key off. Turbo started making noise after I fixed the clamp. I am really suspicious weather it lost oil pressure because I could hear the turbo before I checked pressure. Not noisy but I could hear it and usually I cant really.

Im really not sure weather it is worth it to keep trying on it. another turbo at like 600 and what caused it to loose oil pressure. New pump From Kerma, Primed it before installing it. made sure it was clean, cleaned up passages. Check valve fail? No bottom end noise that I could tell over the normal diesel sound. Driving before it had no load knocks or rapping,

Quick question I saw A super clean A3 2011 CBEA for sale for 3000usd. 160 on the clock. Ran perfect then he started off at a light and it would barely move. pulled to the side of the road and would not get out of park. 3 shops told him it was the Mechatronic unit. I actually concur, until I plug in VCDS and know for sure. Thinking one of the wires came off inside the electronic part. Engine Started after but would not shift. While at the 3rd shop Now it wont start gauges went black probably from the immobilizer. Cranks but no fire. IMO but not sure could be from the Communication with the trans not there anymore.

Do you know if that year had the longer hex shaft or does it still need a delete?
Mechatronic unit is 1300 at euro tuning.
The car is absolutely MINT... other than that
On the fence on it any input?

 

[TurboABA]

Do you know if that year had the longer hex shaft or does it still need a delete?

Info here

List of differences between the CJAA and CBEA engine in...

I read elsewhere that the CJAA engine takes 4.3 liters of oil and the CBEA takes 4.0L of oil because of a different oil pan. I don't know about the oil capacity, but I can say that according to the parts catalog, the oil pan is the same on CBEA and CJAA engines. The CJAA engine is used in 2010...

www.myturbodiesel.com

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Sounds like you'll be around 5k in once you address what you think it may need..... not sure about the market out where you are, but I would think you can get a fully running vehicle for around that which you don't need to tear down and rebuild.... so for me, I'd pass.

 

[farnhamassoc]

yea they sell for about 6000 with those miles but none for sale. Missed all the ones last week. Gone before sat when I got the gauge on it. Several TDI sportwagens which I need the space, with around 100k. for 7.5 to 8k usd when they come up. There are several for sale now for 10 to 12. but I am not going there when I am going to slap a cp3 on it. and need to tune. If its got less than 100k I will take my chances on the cp4 for a while. but when I do the belt it is getting updated. Other option would be find a good cjaa and slap it in my car.....But the work is killing me. already tuned and everything. That problem has to be something attached to the engine. because it never did that before.

 

[farnhamassoc]

60k mile engine complete running CJAA with turbo guaranteed for 30 days popped up 1000usd delivered. on evilbay then I could keep my tune....That was expensive. trans has new clutches and flywheel. tempted to pull the trigger since I know the car. Problem must be in parts from engine becasuse it had no codes before all this.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Strangely enough the new CJAA has no codes after Coding injectors and adapting parts. Something on the CBEA that I got just was not being nice. My new engine is PERFECT. One of these days I want to take the turbo cartridge off and see if there is an issue with those veins I am betting that has to be the issue. Loose link or something.