CBEA P0299 after engine replacement and new turbo VNT actuator

[farnhamassoc]

Ok Here is the most of it.
I had the oil pump hex shaft fail replaced the engine with another used engine. Coded the injectors to the engine, Adapted the EGR, Also installed a CP3 pump. Deleted the 2nd fuel pump (required for CP3) Adapted the exhaust pressure valve. (broke that on installation)) Most parts came from old engine with no codes.

Here is the problem When I just out of the box floor it it codes po299. Idles and runs fine. when in neutral or park revs up to 2500rpm then that is it. When I feather the gas pedal for instance hit the gas a little about 3 times it ramps up some serious boot and burns the tires. New turbo had new cartridge done by professional shop. Veins working perfectly and freely. I installed the VNT and adjusted it as follows used a mighty vac and between 3 and 5 inches (just starts to move) put that at the top. when it is at 15 to 20 it is fully open (down) from what I can tell. When I run the engine at stand still revving the engine the actual and projected( whatever its called on the RossTech) boost pretty much match on the graph. If I feather the gas pedal It does not seem to code. just really hard to drive.

Any ideas.
Mike

 

[TurboABA]

"the soft rev limiter" in neutral or park sounds normal.... I don't recall the exact number, but my '10 has the same limitation if I just floor it while standing still.

16683/P0299/000665 - Ross-Tech Wiki

wiki.ross-tech.com

 

[TurboABA]

Focus on the exhaust valve... there's output tests you can run on it to ensure it functions (cycles) and doesn't bind. They are known to fail, and there's been recalls on them, so there's a good chance you got a flaky one.
https://images.app.goo.gl/4C6FDNznPeGEbWcn6

I've had mine replaced twice so far under the extended warranty.

 

[farnhamassoc]

OK will do Check that later today

 

[farnhamassoc]

Focus on the exhaust valve... there's output tests you can run on it to ensure it functions (cycles) and doesn't bind. They are known to fail, and there's been recalls on them, so there's a good chance you got a flaky one.
https://images.app.goo.gl/4C6FDNznPeGEbWcn6

I've had mine replaced twice so far under the extended warranty.

I have been looking for a way to test that part...Cant find any info on it. Really seems like a large probability it could be the problem. Makes sense intermittent. But I think it has a code for that part being bad too. Maybe I could disconnect the exhaust, wire it out of the way drive it and see if it is different. that would tell me something. Luckily I do have a 2 post hoist so I will do that real quick. let you know.

 

[TurboABA]

Look under basic settings output test or something like that.... It's there, I've used it.

 

[TurboABA]

But I think it has a code for that part being bad too. Maybe I could disconnect the exhaust, wire it out of the way drive it and see if it is different. that would tell me something.

Facepalm!
Imagine actually providing details from the start! Anyways, if you unplug it, you will run into issues for certain. They typically fail or seize in a closed position and thus restrict exhaust flow... Based on your slow turbo response code, I'd guess that yours is seized partially closed. You can spray it with liquid wrench to loosen it up sometimes if the wiring/connector is functioning as it should.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Well I disconnected the exhaust before the CAT after the particulate filter and it is the same. No difference. When I push on the gas it has like no boost. then when I feather it on and off 3 times seems to be the magic and then it has all the power...Before this I had several codes one was from the intake manifold flap position. This was on the new engine. My old one never had that code. P0215. I used the small part that holds it in range. code went off on that. I really dont know the history and that is part of the problem. I am wondering has anyone ever had that flap on the intake break?... I would think I would hear some sort of noise like it flapping on and off. I don't hear anything just no power then feather it and all the power comes on.

Other codes I had were from the CP3. I connected the #2 fuel pump and I had fuel rail pressure too high. and boost not in range. I figured out that the #2 fuel pump needed to be disconnected. According to the vague diagram they showed the hose routed from the filter to the inlet. Figured that out. The spiking fuel rail pressure was causing a peek in boost could see it on the graph. After I fixed that I could drive it a bit and the car would not go in limp. When feathering it ...Then I got the code for the exhaust pressure sensor out of range. I broke the one from my old engine on removal somehow. I put the one in from the new engine which I think was bad. Ordered one Bosch and put it on and adapted it to the car. I havent driven it that much but I havent gotten that code again yet.

Any other suggestions... I may drive it a bit then see if the code comes on for the exhaust pressure sensor. I am not sure if that would cause it to have this drivability issue.

 

[farnhamassoc]

sorry I was not going to disconnect the wires to anything I was thinking I would use like bailing wire to pull the exhaust back a bit so it would be able to breathe.

 

[farnhamassoc]

appreciate your help FYI

Thank you very much

let me be a little more descriptive on the drivability issue. IF I floor it from stop it has no power no boost, there is no delay no after a minute it spools nothing. If I hit the gas a little bit then completely let off 3 times Whatever it is it opens up and it seems like there is LOTS of power like more than usual.
By the way the intake flap arm did move really freely. Let me check my old engine to see if the intake flap had any resistance.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Oh here is some food for thought....Again I have really no info other than some pictures on the engine before I bought it. 86000 mile car. Some damage to the front mostly in the rear. Do you know if the intake manifold flaps are plastic? I think they are and if they are they dont feel like they would make noise. I moved the one on my old engine and it has a bit of resistance. It was working fine. If I remember right the one in the car now felt almost like it was moving in the air. No resistance.......Maybe its broken.....From the accident? Now that would make sense. because with the exhaust off it was the same.

By the way My Wife is from Toronto ha ha. been that way many times. Im in CA...

 

[TurboABA]

Oh boy.... let's do this one step at a time.
- do you have any current codes if you do a full autoscan?
- have you logged requested vs actual boost while driving or did you only look at this when revving in neutral?

Since you changed the HPFP, I can only suspect that your fuel system is out of calibration. You mention disconnecting one of the pumps, so maybe you're starving the HPFP? Why did you swap to CP3? Are you chipped\tuned or modified in some way for additional output? Are you running a different turbo setup? (size wise)

 

[TurboABA]

Have you run basic settings or output tests on your N75? You mention having "bench tested" the VNT but do you see it working on the engine?

 

[TurboABA]

Charge pressure control solenoid valve N75
Effect in the event of failure
When it is not supplied with current, the valve isolates
the vacuum unit from the vacuum system. A spring in
the vacuum unit moves the adjustment mechanism's
linkage in such a way that the turbocharger's guide
vanes are positioned to a sharp setting angle
(emergency running position). Only a low charge
pressure is available at a low engine speed and
therefore a low exhaust gas pressure.

 

[farnhamassoc]

not sure on the n75 let me check but I think so.... I changed to the CP3 for reliability. IDK if you have really investigated the CP4 but they are really poorly designed. aluminum bore wears and Piston can easily turn sideways and that is what causes the Failure. CP3 is a Permanent fix. I drive all over so I need reliability. cant question anything.....I got the car with 165k miles on it and now at 267 400km. When I got the car it had just failed and replaced at he stealer before I bought it. I was planning on changing the pump right before the hex shaft failed. (I updated the oil pump to the CJA and BRM setup kit from Kerma)... DIdnt see that coming on CBEA should have caught that on a forum in advance.

No tunes now but once I get this resolved I think I am going to do the Kerma 170 for better MPG or Malone. Don't really need more power but I hear it is worth 5 or so mpg. They have this endless chain gas tax here that is Killing us. Super high price for diesel. (kind of like ONT Canada)

 

[TurboABA]

Yes, I'm well aware of the fearmongers terrorizing everyone about the CP4.
The CP4 in my Jetta is at 277k+ km and I've fueled it every bit of diesel it's pumped since day one. I am so concerned about it's reliability, that I would hop into it and drive it down to you without even opening the hood to check if there's oil in it.
The CP4 in my Touareg is only at 137k+ km or something like that....

I don't believe that the CP4s that blow up all over the place are a direct result of the design.... I believe it's from crap fuel, lubricity and improper or lack of fuel filter changes. I use an additive every fuel-up.

If you really want to mod for MPG, you need to dump the DPF and related, but that won't fly too well on the west side.....

 

[farnhamassoc]

This video is what convinced me they are super under engineered.....Cp3 is $$$$ though I got one from the guy in romania on ebay rebuilt. 950 usd. all specs from the bench test came with it. Excellent rebuilder and this included the kit. All it takes is a micron of anything and like a skateboard when it skids and turns sideways. one of my buddies said the same thing his failed at 120k miles. 3500 in parts. ran clean diesel in it. changed the filter regularly. Still failed. But if you look at the design of the cp3 there is no way it can fail. anyway back to the subject I will post again thanks for your help.

 

[oilhammer]

Yep, the key failure point is the "possibility" of the plunger going sideways, which is strange because many (most?) HPFPs of that basic mechanical design (diesel and gas) have some sort of method to prevent that from happening. No idea why Bosch left that part out on that particular pump, but they did. Although I have serviced a boatload of these cars over the years, certainly less today, but I have only ever seen five failures. I think that is statistically low enough that I would put that pretty far down the list of CBEA/CJAA failure points. Heck, in the last month I have seen as many failed DPFs on the darn things.

 

[TurboABA]

I got one from the guy in romania on ebay rebuilt. 950 usd. all specs from the bench test came with it. Excellent rebuilder and this included the kit.

You are sooooooo screwed !!!!
Can't trust those guys!


P.S. Guess my nationality and where I lived until I was 12

 

[TurboABA]

Back to you other issue.... I would also look at your Charge air pressure sender G31 & Position sender for charge pressure
positioner G581

Both of those are used in regulating the charge pressure and the VNT position.

 

[TurboABA]

Do you know if the intake manifold flaps are plastic?

I'd have to look it up, but I doubt the actual butterfly valves are plastic.... the gear drive and pivot actuating arm will be plastic.....
You should also be able to run output tests on the intake manifold flap motor V157 as if it's jamming or failing, it would hinder the formation of a proper mixture which would in turn hurt spool and response.

 

[TurboABA]

Read this.... someone already put together a lot of info to help peeps out.

P2015 / VAG 008215 Intake Manifold Write-up and Replacement

****Part 1**** This is my first try at a write-up but hopefully it serves well as these cars gain more miles and I suspect this problem becomes more common. My car is a 09 Jetta TDI with 90,XXX miles on it currently. I am getting a CEL with code P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[farnhamassoc]

I like the Intake stuff there looks much easier if you remove it with the EGR.....I dont usually trust Romanians but the specs on that pump seem legit. I gamble that it will outlast a CP4....The Trusted places were just too much for my pocket book. Better than Prothe I am guessing. doing the n75 right now will post the results.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Ok did the adaptation of the n75. I did that already too. Realized when doing it. Same thing . drove it around for a while and still get 1 code p299. I pulled off the intake flap control valve checked the movement of the arm.....Actually I really cant tell if they are opening or closing. On my other engine intake I can pretty well feel it open and close. The control valve came off my old engine with no codes so I am pretty sure it is working ok. That forum seemed to test the valve but you cant see if the flaps are actually moving without the intake off.
Drove it around for a while. and it is getting worse. Something is definitely sticking. You can feather the gas and sometimes it wont go above 1300 rpm. then you let off and feather it then you can feel it want to rev....Had to turn off the engine a few times because it would not go above 1300rpm. Then you can actually hear the charge of the boost when it does not stick and the engine takes off. The VNT actuator came off my old engine too with no codes or drivability problems. I did try the other one first (long story there) with the same results. that is what caused me to check the adjustment and at the same time put the other valve in which I am pretty certain is correct.
Here is my theory right or wrong. intake flap is somehow disconnected from the actuator arm. If it was stuck shut the engine would not want to rev and not have boost. Shutting off the engine stops the flow of air and allows it to reset. Maybe it is cracked open a bit then when I first start it. then I am able to feather the gas to get it to open up and once its open it stays open till I let off the gas. luckily I do have the other intake.

 

[farnhamassoc]

OH yea forgot to reply I WOULD LOVE TO STRIGHT PIPE THIS *****.....EGR AND COOLER WOULD BE OUT OF HERE.....but California would never let it on the road. they already outlawed my stock. 7.3 ford.

 

[farnhamassoc]

just to satisfy my curiosity I removed and inspected the intake manifold that can be ruled out. no binding and flap moves with actuator arm. Double checked the VNT with a mighty vac and it is working smoothly. no binding no stop spots. nothing interfering. The flap valve below the egr is working smoothly and not binding and or stuck. Not mucked up. Spring loads to open position.

I am really baffled now. Could it be the fuel pressure regulator that needs to be adapted. I could try that?

It is like one time you step on the gas and the car wont move then you let off press on it again and it still wont then the 3rd time it burns the tires when you barely touch it.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Ok the latest. actual data. THe Specified boost responds directly with the accelerator pedal. So when I feather it the specified boost goes up and down then when the car starts to go the actual boost follows near the specified. when whatever gets unstuck. I really dont see how it could be anything else but the VNT.....Pretty strange. computer is getting the data to give out boost but VNT is not responding as it should. No other codes except p299 In fact when I feather it no CEL but code is there when I scan.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Here is the guy from Romania on the forums. Mac performance. other guys say he is legit.
https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/cp3-pump-kit.497731/

 

[farnhamassoc]

Ok I think I have pinpointed the problem. This is a part that had no issues prior to the engine change which baffles me. I put a t on the vacuum line to the VNT. Vacuum goes to 0 when the problem is happening. then feather the gas and it goes to 15inches or more. Then it starts boosting. So VNT is working fine. I guess the wires to it are position sensors. Computer is asking for more boost specified boost is going up with engine RPM as requested by the computer. Actual boost is not going up. until that vacuum line gets 15lbs. I can see the vacuum flutter a bit when I am feathering the gas. then it drops to 0 no boost then I feather it again 15 inches.
Honestly It has to be 1 thing. because the actual boost number matches the power output. Tells me the boost sensor on the intake is working fine. IT hast to be the electric vacuum solenoid is failing. or wires to it are intermittent. or signal is intermittent. I wonder if the VCDS can check that voltage. I would think if the voltage was wrong something would code. So probably not. Must be the solenoid.

 

[farnhamassoc]

Ok latest checked the output test of the n75 and it goes from 0 to 25 inches on and off no problems. When doing the test.....Randomly sitting at idle it just bounces to 0 then back up to like 25 inches. needle flutters. then sometimes it just stays at 25....It must be the valve. But i cant get any conclusive tests. F---it. I am just going to buy one and see if it works.