CBEA/CJAA DPF info

[14BeetleCJAA]

Also possible the seller cleaned the pipes & got the codes cleared just long enough to sell it "clean". I find it hard to believe a perfectly working system would break 24 hours after it sold.

I concur. I would not purchase a used vehicle without connecting a simple OBDII scanner so I could confirm how many miles it had been driven since the last time the MIL codes were cleared.

 

[MrCypherr]

I agree, it seems very sus but I also wouldnt be surprised considering how fragile and problematic these things are and how easily they fail.

 

[14BeetleCJAA]

Just purchased a 2014 VW Golf TDI with 163,000 miles on it. Within a day of purchasing I had the P2002 code and shortly after I had the P0401 come on. We have taken apart the low pressure EGR filter and it was extremely clean, no soot in the tailpipe either. The scan tool indicated zero regens in the history of the car. Could this possibly be due to the previous owner changing the battery recently? Wondering if replacing the battery has messed with the cars computer. It hasn't done a regen since I've owned it. CIL comes back on almost immediately after driving it once they have been cleared. Any recommendations would be helpful!

Planning on doing a forced regen or replacing the low pressure EGR valve. I know that replacing the DPF was mentioned several times on this thread with these codes, and I'll explore that option in the future. My dad (car mechanic) thinks that the DPF is in good condition due to the cleanliness of the tailpipe and EGR.

Are you using VCDS as the scan tool for determining the number of regens that have been performed? IMO, VCDS is by far the most reliable and accurate diagnostic software for VW’s. All others are very prone to inaccurate readings and data reporting.

 

[14BeetleCJAA]

Most likely it just failed and if you keep driving, youll notice more and more soot coming on the tailpipe. Regardless of what anyone thinks, and mentioned MANY times before, it needs a new DPF and EGR pipe.

Very likely just bad luck. 163,000 miles is a pretty good haul for these DPF’s.

 

[3TDIFAMILY]

Is removing the DPF and EGR and replacing with pre-routed pipe something that is even discussed here? I'm having difficulty finding posts related to this. One of the main reasons I recently joined is to find information on this. I want to do the work myself, except the required tune. I live in Texas so emissions inspection isn't a problem.

Do you think the glowing amber warning light with the muffler looking icon might cause them to question the success of the inspection test? Car tag/inspection due October, and mine just started warning last week.

 

[MrCypherr]

If tuned correctly, there should be no lights on the dash. If youre removing emission parts, you need software changes.

 

[JonA]

Probably a dumb question but... considering replacing the DPF on my newer Jetta, and I see this part coming up (1K0-253-120) when I search DPF... what is this? Do I need to add this to my parts list? It's not on oilhammer's OP so just double checking before I purchase parts and start taking things to pieces.

 

[JonA]

Ah thanks, silly me. ID parts has this note: "There are different versions of this filter. We can not determine the version with VIN. The versions are interchangeable. You can visually inspect if you would like the same version." Guess I'll go with the cheaper one (120B is like $200 less).

120:

120B:

 

[pedroYUL]

You want the smaller one 120B, as the older bigger one has a nut that is a total headache to take out, and worse to put back in.

 

[JonA]

I should've trusted the OH list! Great tip, thank you.

 

[oilhammer]

The larger one was what was in there from the factory. The smaller one was what they put in for the Dieselgate "fix". Then the smaller ones went on backorder, but the older style was still available, so they started selling those. Doesn't really matter, they both do the same thing, and they both clog shut when the DPF fails.

 

[jnc7608]

Mods, please make this a sticky so I can easily point people here.

When (not if) your CBEA or CJAA car flags the DTCs P2002, P0401, and sometimes P240F, and your car will have sooty tailpipes, YOUR DPF HAS FAILED. It is BROKEN. It cannot be cleaned. It will need to be replaced.

This is the current parts list:

1K0-254-708-GX DPF pipe assembly
03G-131-547-H gasket
1K0-253-725 x2 clamps
1K0-253-115-AE gasket
1K0-253-115-AG gasket
1K0-253-115-T gasket
1K0-253-120-B EGR pipe
1K0-253-725-F clamp

There will be a core on the DPF itself, so plan on that part being refunded when you bring it back.

You will not only need to clear the DTCs, but you will need to reset the ECU's value for the new DPF. You need a suitable scan tool to do this. Then, if you need readiness to be set, you will need to drive the car for a while... sometimes over 1000 miles.

 

[RallyDriver]

Will be replacing the DPF on our 2013 TDI soon. What are the procedures/instructions to reset the ECU's value for the new DPF using VCDS?

 

[MrCypherr]

Theres a test plan for resetting DPF values. Not sure what it is on VCDS.

 

[oilhammer]

2.0L CR TDI - Ross-Tech Wiki

 

[oldsoul]

Go to Rawtek's website. They should have an installation PDF, which is pretty helpful on what you need to do to remove it.

They do, it's actually pretty good. Takes about 5-6 hours with a lift, as I recall. Did one a couple years ago for a "friend".
Not sure what happened to that car, I think I heard it was lost in a terrible "boating" accident. Poor guy had all his guns in the trunk even.

 

[MAXRPM]

I bought an 09 jetta TDI like 3 years ago, I was not aware that car had a special type of warranty until I read here in the forum. and I took it to the dealer for a fault on Megatronic in the tranny,, they replaced the whole DSG tranny,, I got another light for intake,, stealership replaced intake,,, and they also replaced the DPF, I'm still dumb founded about this warranty on these 09,, and car still under warranty for any in the future CEL for 50k miles,, car was about 160K miles approx 5 months ago,,

I like this TDI,, the only thing I do not like it's the mpgs, this TDI burns more diesel that any TDI I owned, including my 6cyl twin turbo 540D, last time I calculated my mpgs were like 31 mpg... go figure!! It burns like a gasser

 

[JonA]

Was just poking around on FCP and saw this, at first glance it looks like everything you need in one package with lifetime replacement... I didn't realize FCP had everything.

VW Catalytic Converter Kit - Genuine VW KIT-01750

VW Catalytic Converter Kit - Genuine VW KIT-01750

www.fcpeuro.com

 

[SierraForester]

is there way to check used DPF out of a car if its not cracked?

 

[RallyDriver]

I decided not to go the used DPF route as I didn't think it was worth risking a used unit given the work involved to replace it.

I suspect the only thing you could do, would be to check for signs of soot in the EGR pipe hole, (see TSB link below) and at the exhaust outlet. If there is any sign of soot then I'd avoid the used DPF. Having said this though the seller could have previously cleaned any soot out.

V011411 MIL ON, DTC P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Stored in ECM Fault Memory, Could be accompanied with Fault P2463 DPF Soot Accumulation (nhtsa.gov)

 

[RallyDriver]

We have now done 950Km with the car since replacing the DPF and the EGR filter pipe, but when I run autoscan it still shows the P0401 code at the mileage when the code was reported prior to the DPF replacement.
I thought this would clear after driving the car but still then MIL light has not come on during the miles since replacing the DPF.

Has anyone else had issues with this code after replacing the DPF. Any thoughts on how to clear the stuck code?
Scan below.

Sunday,20,October,2024,17:37:33:09635
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 11 x64
VCDS Version: 24.7.0.0 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4643.4
Data version: 20240715 DS356.3
www.Ross-Tech.com

Chassis Type: AJ-VW36 (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 2E 42 44 46 4F 52 56 62 72 77

VIN: 3VWPL7AJ0DM6XXXXXX Mileage: 160350km-99636miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
1C-Position Sensing -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
4F-Centr. Electr. II -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CJA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Part No SW: 03L 997 030 E HW: 03L 907 309 AA
Component: R4 2.0l TDI G000AG 9983
Revision: 12H14--- Serial number:
Coding: 0050078
Shop #: WSC 00211 003 1048576
VCID: 3039069D162109BAEF3-8064
VINID: 0E69E070745A0147460011071CA6CF9CC7

1 Fault Found:
001025 - EGR System
P0401 - 001 - Insufficient Flow - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 159408 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.03.13.
Time: 21:09:12

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2231 /min
Speed: 113.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.98 V
Load: 89.4 %
Load: 100.0 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 330.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 360.0 mg/str

 

[oilhammer]

Run the EGR test, I forget where exactly it is... but the low pressure one uses the differential pressure sensor to monitor EGR flow, the high pressure one uses the MAF sensor like the older cars do.

 

[oilhammer]

Oh, two more bad CJAA DPFs today, making this week's total three.... plus one bad CJAA engine, that may have started with a bad turbo, who knows, MIL had been on for a "while", drive it until it blew something up and lost oil pressure.

 

[RallyDriver]

Thanks Oilhammer, I found 2 EGR output tests and ran them;

1. EGR Valve N18 with engine running result was:
Off - Mass Air 510 mg/str Lambda 98.6%,
On - Mass Air 350 mg/str Lambda 60.0%

2. EGR Valve 2 N213 with engine running result was:
Off - Mass Air 520 mg/str Lambda 99.4%,
On - Mass Air 410 mg/str Lambda 34.7%

Hopefully the on/off change means things are working, but not really sure what these mean otherwise.

 

[oilhammer]

VCDS has a pop-up box when you hover over the value that gives the expected difference from ON and OFF.

Sometimes there can be some soot that gets in the low pressure line that goes from the EGR cooler up to the pressure sensor. I always blow all the lines clean with solvent and compressed air when I do a DPF, just to be sure.

 

[RallyDriver]

Didn't get any popup boxes on the EGR output test window but on the EGR adaption window the notes say Mass Air difference should be a minimum of 100 mg/str. So my EGR tests appear ok.

I think the issue with the stuck P0401 code might have been that I didn't actually clear the all the codes correctly the first time, as I did not clear the codes under the Engine controller fault codes menu. I used erase DTC from the auto-scan screen. Having cleared the code under the Engine controller fault codes menu the auto-scan is now clean.

 

[NYHD]

New to the Forum, with (unfortunate) good reason. Have a 2013 TDI Beetle, manual transmission, that is once again throwing DPF codes. The DPF was replaced a little more than two years (14,000 miles) ago under the Dieselgate warranty. Now the warranty is spent and the estimate is $3500. That is just not an option.

I maintain several older (60s and 70s) vehicles, so I am leaning toward doing a remove and replace myself, but would need some directions -- 50 year old cars didn't have DPFs. I looked at Ravtek's web site and they seem to be all but shut down, and I do not see any tutorials there. I see that there are downloads available for the VWM labor/service manual. That the way to go? Any other suggestions? Should I not even try? Should I do a delete?

Doesn't 2 years 14,000 miles seem a bit too soon? Is this going to happen in two more years?

Also. any suggestions for a basic VAG code reader? I also have a 2014 Touareg TDI.

 

[Nuje]

Doesn't take too much reading here to discover that the CJAA engine in your 2013 Beetle - the DPF failing is not a question of "if", but "when". And the "when" can be anywhere from 10K to 100K miles - no rhyme or reason why. They crack internally and then they're done.

If you're in a state that doesn't do emissions testing (no idea on Maryland), the delete is the best option as it guarantees that you won't have the DPF issue ever again (because it's gone). Of course, it's for "off-road use only", so be aware of that (and why Rawtek isn't very "visible" anymore). If you want some other options, look at EU vendors.

Good basic code reader for VAG cars is VCDS from Ross-tech. It has the added benefit of also being the absolute friggin' best. For a paltry $200.

The DPF itself is available from vendors like IDparts.com for as good a price as you'll find anywhere. If you're comfortable with wrenches and working under cars, it's not the worst job in the world. Certainly do-able by someone who isn't intimidated by car parts and who has some experience in figuring things out.

 

[NYHD]

And on the Cjaa it took me 1000 plus miles to achieve all Parameters , I was losing hope after changing a glow plug for a while

I didn’t take the vw fix Or cash so it’s still cheating

Newb here. Can you explain "achieve all parameters"?

 

[JonA]

Newb here. Can you explain "achieve all parameters"?

Probably referring to OBD readiness. There are a number of readiness monitors that need to be set / ready for a vehicle to pass an OBD emissions test. Most of the monitors take a few different drive cycles to be set (e.g. accelerate to 60mph, or drive at 3000rpm for at least 30 seconds, etc...). They can be hard to get set, and sometimes take a lot of miles.