burpod
teh stallionz!!1
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Location
- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
what you need:
1) filter head
2) couple fittings (1/2" male npt -> 5/16" barb)
3) perhaps some extra 5/16 regular fuel line and also some clear 5/16 fuel line if needed
4) choice of filter (1R-0750 - 2micron)
5) new little clamps (i like to use the ear clamps)
- generic CAT filter head from amazon ~$15 (usually come with a couple plugs):
- to fit neatly in the stock fuel filter holder, you need to cut off the bracket part of the filter head with a grinder. it is larger diameter than the factory filter, so in order to fit, you have to remove the screw clamp bolt, and bend the holder out little bit; you can use a large zip-tie around the angled clamp bits to cinch it tight again to hold filter firmly in place (forgot to take pic of this)
- some bulk 5/16" fuel line is helpful to have on hand $35 shipped for 25' of continental fuel hose:
- a couple 1/2" male NPT to 5/16" barb fittings - stainless, brass or aluminum. here's some brass ones.
here's the pic of it installed:
- there are 4 ports on the CAT filter head - two of them you plug, so you just have a supply line and then an output line for the filtered fuel. the exrta ports could be used for pressure or temp sensors
- these fiter heads sometimes might have some leftover shavings in them, i would inspect it, use a pick and comrpessed air to make sure it's 100% clean; ideally, prior to fully hooking it up, i would suck a bunch of fuel through it to try and flush any contaminants out. with a mityvac, you would suck fuel into a bleed canister and then dump back in the tank. if you have a lift pump, just loop the filtered output line to the return and cyclke the key 15-20 times. takes about 5 key cycles to fully fill the filter.
- you can re-use the factory clear line if you want. if it's ratty, i use some clear tygon line instead; if you put in a new clear line, i route it along the return line, with some slack in it so you can get the boost pipe off without disconnecting it
- you can also re-use the factory feed line - i snip an inch off of it to fit a little better
- another good spot to route the return hose, is sneak it behind/under the cat filter and windishiled resevoir; either way, it's nice to have some slack in it
- no more useless thermo-tee, no more bubbles (hopefully
)
- you can find genuine CAT filters on ebay/etc for $15-20 each, possibly cheaper, but it's hard to know 100% if you're getting a very good knock-off or not
this + a lift pump is a great combo and will guarantee never any air in the fuel system
you can probably find the specs of the filter and get an idea of how long filter change interval should be. i think 40-50k miles or 5yrs, assuming getting decent mpg say 45-50mpg, would be fine unless you get some bad fuel. that would be 1000 gallons of filtered fuel at 50mpg, ~66 fillups of 15 gal
1) filter head
2) couple fittings (1/2" male npt -> 5/16" barb)
3) perhaps some extra 5/16 regular fuel line and also some clear 5/16 fuel line if needed
4) choice of filter (1R-0750 - 2micron)
5) new little clamps (i like to use the ear clamps)
- generic CAT filter head from amazon ~$15 (usually come with a couple plugs):
- to fit neatly in the stock fuel filter holder, you need to cut off the bracket part of the filter head with a grinder. it is larger diameter than the factory filter, so in order to fit, you have to remove the screw clamp bolt, and bend the holder out little bit; you can use a large zip-tie around the angled clamp bits to cinch it tight again to hold filter firmly in place (forgot to take pic of this)
- some bulk 5/16" fuel line is helpful to have on hand $35 shipped for 25' of continental fuel hose:
- a couple 1/2" male NPT to 5/16" barb fittings - stainless, brass or aluminum. here's some brass ones.
here's the pic of it installed:
- there are 4 ports on the CAT filter head - two of them you plug, so you just have a supply line and then an output line for the filtered fuel. the exrta ports could be used for pressure or temp sensors
- these fiter heads sometimes might have some leftover shavings in them, i would inspect it, use a pick and comrpessed air to make sure it's 100% clean; ideally, prior to fully hooking it up, i would suck a bunch of fuel through it to try and flush any contaminants out. with a mityvac, you would suck fuel into a bleed canister and then dump back in the tank. if you have a lift pump, just loop the filtered output line to the return and cyclke the key 15-20 times. takes about 5 key cycles to fully fill the filter.
- you can re-use the factory clear line if you want. if it's ratty, i use some clear tygon line instead; if you put in a new clear line, i route it along the return line, with some slack in it so you can get the boost pipe off without disconnecting it
- you can also re-use the factory feed line - i snip an inch off of it to fit a little better
- another good spot to route the return hose, is sneak it behind/under the cat filter and windishiled resevoir; either way, it's nice to have some slack in it
- no more useless thermo-tee, no more bubbles (hopefully
)- you can find genuine CAT filters on ebay/etc for $15-20 each, possibly cheaper, but it's hard to know 100% if you're getting a very good knock-off or not
this + a lift pump is a great combo and will guarantee never any air in the fuel system
you can probably find the specs of the filter and get an idea of how long filter change interval should be. i think 40-50k miles or 5yrs, assuming getting decent mpg say 45-50mpg, would be fine unless you get some bad fuel. that would be 1000 gallons of filtered fuel at 50mpg, ~66 fillups of 15 gal
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diesel kleen type additives are supposed to emulsify small amounts of water. i suppose if you get a large amount of water somehow, and car is running like crap, you could just dump the filter into some other container and drain the water out.. and hten put back or just replace the filter entirely.
