Car died while driving

[jokila]

I do not know if or when the timing belt has been replaced. I have checked it in the past. It looks relatively new feels great. It’s tight when you touch it with your fingers. It doesn’t leave any black residue as if it were going bad.

I only asked to get you to tell us if the belt was broken, and you said no. That doesn't mean it didn't somehow jump timing causing a no start condition. For that you will need to see if the pump is in time when the crank is at TDC>

Fuel has to be there, so check to make sure the injection pump is getting voltage. If the injection pump is not energized it will not start up. I would check the connection of the pump to the harness. Disconnect and reconnect the plug. Is it possible you lost fuel prime somehow? Make sure you can see fuel spiting out of the injectors when cranking.

As @oilhammer has said,, it's not the alternator causing the no start.

 

[jokila]

But the question is still why did it just shut off while I was driving just because I turned a climate control knob? And now won’t start

Your car is old enough to start having intermittent crank sensor problems. If you crank and get no RPMs, it could be related to that. Not always will it throw a code or make the GP light flash. I would disco and reconnect that plug too; it's right underneath the IP connector.

 

[Mozambiquer]

But the question is still why did it just shut off while I was driving just because I turned a climate control knob? And now won’t start

Ignore the climate control knob. That is most likely random correlation not causation.

 

[Ethanb89]

I only asked to get you to tell us if the belt was broken, and you said no. That doesn't mean it didn't somehow jump timing causing a no start condition. For that you will need to see if the pump is in time when the crank is at TDC>

Fuel has to be there, so check to make sure the injection pump is getting voltage. If the injection pump is not energized it will not start up. I would check the connection of the pump to the harness. Disconnect and reconnect the plug. Is it possible you lost fuel prime somehow? Make sure you can see fuel spiting out of the injectors when cranking.

As @oilhammer has said,, it's not the alternator causing the no start.

Okay I will try to check that today and see

 

[Ethanb89]

Ignore the climate control knob. That is most likely random correlation not causation.

Okay, well I’ll check that crank sensor out and the connection, it’s relatively new but I’ll check it out as well as what @jokila said about the pump

 

[Windex]

Eh. If it cranks fine, first thing I would do is crack one of the 17mm injector line nuts and see if I get fuel. (assuming no VCDS)

 

[Ethanb89]

I only asked to get you to tell us if the belt was broken, and you said no. That doesn't mean it didn't somehow jump timing causing a no start condition. For that you will need to see if the pump is in time when the crank is at TDC>

Fuel has to be there, so check to make sure the injection pump is getting voltage. If the injection pump is not energized it will not start up. I would check the connection of the pump to the harness. Disconnect and reconnect the plug. Is it possible you lost fuel prime somehow? Make sure you can see fuel spiting out of the injectors when cranking.

As @oilhammer has said,, it's not the alternator causing the no start.

OK, so fuel is coming out of the fuel line. I loosened one of the fuel lines on injector number four and it was spitting out fuel. So I assume the pump is working? Also checked the crankshaft position sensor seems to be in order since it was replaced less than six months ago, also connectors are good and clean. I do not think though that the injection pump is timed properly with the crank being at top dead center still trying to figure that out, but it does not appear to be times together properly. Is there a Mark or indicator on the injection pump sprocket to identify where it should be?

 

[jokila]

OK, so fuel is coming out of the fuel line. I loosened one of the fuel lines on injector number four and it was spitting out fuel. So I assume the pump is working? Also checked the crankshaft position sensor seems to be in order since it was replaced less than six months ago, also connectors are good and clean. I do not think though that the injection pump is timed properly with the crank being at top dead center still trying to figure that out, but it does not appear to be times together properly. Is there a Mark or indicator on the injection pump sprocket to identify where it should be?

 

[Ethanb89]

View attachment 137745

Okay so when the crank is TDC that notch is at the bottom

 

[jokila]

Are you sure you are at TDC?

 

[Ethanb89]

Yes. The mark in the flywheel was at the notch it was supposed to be at. I triple checked it was in the correct spot. The -o- mark @jokila

 

[J_dude]

Yes. The mark in the flywheel was at the notch it was supposed to be at. I triple checked it was in the correct spot. The -o- mark

So turn the crank another revolution and it should line up.

 

[Ethanb89]

Another revolution of the crank/harmonic balancer? Or another revolution of the flywheel?

 

[jokila]

Another revolution of the crank/harmonic balancer? Or another revolution of the flywheel?

They turn at the same pace.

 

[oilhammer]

It is a 4-stroke engine, the crankshaft turns twice for every one turn of the camshaft and injection pump. You'll have to have the valve cover and tandem pump off off (or unless you have a specific tool, just the vacuum pump) to verify the camshaft position.

 

[Ethanb89]

It is a 4-stroke engine, the crankshaft turns twice for every one turn of the camshaft and injection pump. You'll have to have the valve cover and tandem pump off off (or unless you have a specific tool, just the vacuum pump) to verify the camshaft position.

OK, so I hooked VCDS to the car and tried to start it, I also pulled relay 09 and it appears to be OK. How do I tell if it has gone bad and stopped working? Also, how do I attach a picture so I can show you the software?

 

[oilhammer]

If you can communicate with the ECU, the MIL and glow lamp both come on, then your relay 109 is working.

 

[Ethanb89]

If you can communicate with the ECU, the MIL and glow lamp both come on, then your relay 109 is working.

Okay so it’s not the relay. It’s not a crank issue because VCDS is registering 336/min when I try to start it. The pump is supplying fuel to the motor, because when I cracked the lines on the injector nozzles and tried to start it fuel was coming out. Battery light still remains on when turn of the key and also when trying to start.

 

[oilhammer]

So the next thing would be to check the crank/cam/pump timing.

Crank set via the little window in the bellhousing, centered on the -0-.

Valve cover and vacuum pump off, #1 lobes facing slightly "up" and to the sides of the engine (front to back of the car), slot in end of cam aligned with valve cover surface (you needn't necessarily have the cam lock tool, just a visual check that it is straight, looking through the hole where the vacuum pump lives).

Slot on pump sprocket lined up with hole in pump housing (jokila posted the pic above... that hole is inline with the top/center of the pump housing, but keep in mind the pump housing canted forward on the engine).

Tensioner spanner holes are somewhere towards the top side of its sweep, the index tab on the tensioner is reasonably close to the slot, and the tensioner's tab is still indexed in the square hole in the plastic inner timing belt cover.

Check all that, post pics ^^^^^^

 

[Ethanb89]

So the next thing would be to check the crank/cam/pump timing.

Crank set via the little window in the bellhousing, centered on the -0-.

Valve cover and vacuum pump off, #1 lobes facing slightly "up" and to the sides of the engine (front to back of the car), slot in end of cam aligned with valve cover surface (you needn't necessarily have the cam lock tool, just a visual check that it is straight, looking through the hole where the vacuum pump lives).

Slot on pump sprocket lined up with hole in pump housing (jokila posted the pic above... that hole is inline with the top/center of the pump housing, but keep in mind the pump housing canted forward on the engine).

Tensioner spanner holes are somewhere towards the top side of its sweep, the index tab on the tensioner is reasonably close to the slot, and the tensioner's tab is still indexed in the square hole in the plastic inner timing belt cover.

Check all that, post pics ^^^^^^

OK, I will try that when I get home. How do I post pictures on here? I cannot figure it out.

 

[Zak99b5]

OK, I will try that when I get home. How do I post pictures on here? I cannot figure it out.

Take pics with your phone.
Log into TDI club on the phone.
Click the hamburger menu top left, and click Media.
Click "Add media" top right.
Scroll all the way to bottom and "Create personal album"
Title your album, then click the "Upload File" buton, choose photo library as your source.
your phone photo album will pop up, and you can select the pics you want to upload. Remember to hit "save."

THEN, you can go to a thread. Click to the right of the little picture icon, and Gallery Embed will pop up, showing you the pics in your album.
Select and post.
whew

 

[Ethanb89]

Take pics with your phone.
Log into TDI club on the phone.
Click the hamburger menu top left, and click Media.
Click "Add media" top right.
Scroll all the way to bottom and "Create personal album"
Title your album, then click the "Upload File" buton, choose photo library as your source.
your phone photo album will pop up, and you can select the pics you want to upload. Remember to hit "save."

THEN, you can go to a thread. Click to the right of the little picture icon, and Gallery Embed will pop up, showing you the pics in your album.
Select and post.
whew

Thank you!

 

[Ethanb89]

If you can communicate with the ECU, the MIL and glow lamp both come on, then your relay 109 is working.

IMG_0116.jpeg

• Ethanb89
• May 17, 2024

 

[Ethanb89]

So the next thing would be to check the crank/cam/pump timing.

Crank set via the little window in the bellhousing, centered on the -0-.

Valve cover and vacuum pump off, #1 lobes facing slightly "up" and to the sides of the engine (front to back of the car), slot in end of cam aligned with valve cover surface (you needn't necessarily have the cam lock tool, just a visual check that it is straight, looking through the hole where the vacuum pump lives).

Slot on pump sprocket lined up with hole in pump housing (jokila posted the pic above... that hole is inline with the top/center of the pump housing, but keep in mind the pump housing canted forward on the engine).

Tensioner spanner holes are somewhere towards the top side of its sweep, the index tab on the tensioner is reasonably close to the slot, and the tensioner's tab is still indexed in the square hole in the plastic inner timing belt cover.

Check all that, post pics ^^^^^^

IMG_0217.jpeg

• Ethanb89
• May 17, 2024

 

[Ethanb89]

So the next thing would be to check the crank/cam/pump timing.

Crank set via the little window in the bellhousing, centered on the -0-.

Valve cover and vacuum pump off, #1 lobes facing slightly "up" and to the sides of the engine (front to back of the car), slot in end of cam aligned with valve cover surface (you needn't necessarily have the cam lock tool, just a visual check that it is straight, looking through the hole where the vacuum pump lives).

Slot on pump sprocket lined up with hole in pump housing (jokila posted the pic above... that hole is inline with the top/center of the pump housing, but keep in mind the pump housing canted forward on the engine).

Tensioner spanner holes are somewhere towards the top side of its sweep, the index tab on the tensioner is reasonably close to the slot, and the tensioner's tab is still indexed in the square hole in the plastic inner timing belt cover.

Check all that, post pics ^^^^^^

OK, I finally was able to get around to doing it and checked the timing. It appears that the injection pump is off 2 teeth on the timing belt. The center lining Mark for the injection pump is almost spot on. I don’t have the tool yet to check and stick it in there but from what I can see it is very close. I didn’t take the valve cover off but the cam gear lines are just slightly off from the head, which is because I don’t have the sprocket for the injection pump completely where it should be. The Mark for the flywheel is off from where it should be about a half inch.

IMG_0226.jpeg

• Ethanb89
• May 18, 2024

IMG_0228.jpeg

• Ethanb89
• May 18, 2024

IMG_0230.jpeg

• Ethanb89
• May 18, 2024

 

[wonneber]

Yes, I do, and I have tried to figure out the issue in VCDS. But I do not have the registered product so I don’t have the full access to all of the features. Don’t exactly have the money to pay for that right now.

VCDS lite (free) will do the basic functions and get codes.
It should work for what you need.
I used it a few years before registering it.
The bar graph for timing belt adjustments was not available which is why I finally registered it.

 

[Ethanb89]

VCDS lite (free) will do the basic functions and get codes.
It should work for what you need.
I used it a few years before registering it.
The bar graph for timing belt adjustments was not available which is why I finally registered it.

Yes but I don’t have $100 to register yet lol

 

[Ethanb89]

So the next thing would be to check the crank/cam/pump timing.

Crank set via the little window in the bellhousing, centered on the -0-.

Valve cover and vacuum pump off, #1 lobes facing slightly "up" and to the sides of the engine (front to back of the car), slot in end of cam aligned with valve cover surface (you needn't necessarily have the cam lock tool, just a visual check that it is straight, looking through the hole where the vacuum pump lives).

Slot on pump sprocket lined up with hole in pump housing (jokila posted the pic above... that hole is inline with the top/center of the pump housing, but keep in mind the pump housing canted forward on the engine).

Tensioner spanner holes are somewhere towards the top side of its sweep, the index tab on the tensioner is reasonably close to the slot, and the tensioner's tab is still indexed in the square hole in the plastic inner timing belt cover.

Check all that, post pics ^^^^^^

So am I correct with my assumption? According to what I have seen, read and the pictures that I have seen on this forum about replacing the belt and doing the timing on these engines sounds about right. Question is will that fix my problem?

 

[turbodieseldyke]

The Mark for the flywheel is off from where it should be about a half inch.

You set the flywheel at TDC first, then adjust the cam and IP if necessary.

 

[wonneber]

Yes but I don’t have $100 to register yet lol

OK.
I have a budget also now that I'm retired. (10 or so years. )
Use the functions you need and if you need the timing graph there's an image on line (don't remember the site, Bing search?) you can fine tune the timing if needed.