Can lock either IP, or cam....not both.

[STDOUBT]

'03 Jetta, 134K miles, engine, IP, and drive train are all original, never been R&R'd.
Trying to lock at TDC so I can remove the IP to replace the N108 (Ohms at nothing due to oil/fuel-fouled wiring).

I can see the flywheel mark really well. Cam plate slides in nicely right there, but IP lock hole is off just enough that pin won't enter the hole.
If I remove the cam plate and roll forward a tich, the IP lock pin goes in, but the flywheel mark is then no longer visible, and the cam plate won't go in.

I have the full metalnerd set, with the non-"long-reach" cam plate, so I'm looking at the #1 cam lobes too.
Would I be OK to just lock at flywheel and cam, then try and "reset" the IP lock hole to where it should be once I re-install the IP?
*sigh* I gotta get this car back on the road.

 

[mittzlepick]

Yes, you would have had to with new pump. Things tend to get a smidge off with wear.

 

[tgray]

Maybe things were even set wrong before. Always best to go through the proper line up procedure when parts are reinstalled, then double check after you roll the engine around 2x by hand.

 

[Nuje]

Would I be OK to just lock at flywheel and cam, then try and "reset" the IP lock hole to where it should be once I re-install the IP?

Yep. Just lock the cam and flywheel, loosen the three IP bolts, use the 22mm wrench to turn it so that the locking pin slides in (it's a *REALLY* snug fit), then proceed with the task at hand.
(Edit: Tighten the IP bolts once you get locking pin in, counter holding with the 22mm wrench)

 

[Nero Morg]

If you're removing the IP, don't bother putting the pin in, that's for assembly, and you'll have to go back and adjust your timing anyways. Just lock the cam and align the crank.

 

[valvecrusher]

Yep. Just lock the cam and flywheel, loosen the three IP bolts, use the 22mm wrench to turn it so that the locking pin slides in (it's a *REALLY* snug fit), then proceed with the task at hand.

Perfect, simple explanation. This.

 

[STDOUBT]

Awesome guys, thank you!!!

 

[burn_your_money]

Don’t forget that you must loosen the cam pulley from the camshaft in order to properly tension the timing belt.

 

[KLXD]

Regarding your initial condition, it is normal. When installing the belt the cam and pump sprockets float until tightened after which the locking tools will still go in.

When you subsequently set the timing you change the position of the pump shaft relative to the pump sprocket. (And, of course, the cam and crank) This may be a little or a lot depending on wear as was mentioned or the preference of the mechanic if he wants to run it extra advanced or retarded.

 

[STDOUBT]

About seating the N108. Have the IP in a vise.
My damaged one came out with a pop, and went flying, leaving it's nose o-ring behind.
Removed that, and went to seat the new unit.
Coated the O-rings really well with diesel, and tried to press it in using my thumbs on the 'wings' with the bolt holes.
Wasn't going to work, so I thought why not cinch it down as evenly as I could with the bolts themselves.
I couldn't really see another way that wouldn't amount to the same type of force, anyway, though it didn't seem like the best idea either, which is why I'm checking with you guys lol.

 

[BobnOH]

Did a bit of search, found nothing good. I usually tell people the injection pump and turbocharger are not rebuildable by normal means. Not exactly true, but many have tried and failed.
Hopefully someone will come along who's done it (replaced N108.
Here are a couple links the might help-
Bosch VE pump head reinstallation how-to. I will show you how to ...

https://injectionpumps.co.uk/pdf/bosch_ve_pumps.pdf

 

[KLXD]

N108 is the solenoid valve beneath the pump head?

I swapped it once with another due to cracked insulation. I don't remember it being a problem. Since you're pushing an o-ring into a bore some resistance is not surprising.

 

[STDOUBT]

N108 is the solenoid valve beneath the pump head?

Yessir that's the bugger.
Thank you guys, I'll try and not sweat it and just put it back together. See how it runs and of course watch for leaks!

 

[burn_your_money]

I use thick gear oil when rebuilding these pumps. Diesel is not slippery enough. Make sure the bore is perfectly clean or you’ll cut your new o rings. Prelube the bore as well. Typically the pump head is removed when installing the solenoid which allows you to rotate it to ease installation but you can do it with the head installed.