Buying new to replace TDI? Registration tip...

[Virgilstar]

We ordered a new mini (Clubman All4) to replace our TDI, and we were just planning on swapping over the plates.

However, the advice of the dealer (it's a multi-brand dealer that does VW and mini) was to just pay the $30 to the DMV and do a new registration.

Reason - it's unclear how long VW may hold onto the registration doc's for the TDIs after surrender. Last thing you want is trying the wrest the doc's from VW, just so you can move the plates onto your new car to drive it legally. For the sake of a few bucks, it's not worth the hassle. Let VW take their sweet time with the backlog, and when they release the registration just turn the old plates in at the DMV for $1.

Obviously YMMV depending on how it works in your state, but for NY this seems to be a decent strategy to avoid being wheel-less in mid November.

 

[DanCsTDI]

I don't know about what others have experienced, but when I sign that title over and hand over the keys and get the check and confirmation that my loan is satisfied, which I am assuming is all happening at the turn in, I am scraping that registration out of the window, cancelling my insurance, and taking my plates. The car no longer belongs to me at that point. It is property of the dealer. I would suggest you do the same. I have always been told never leave that registration in the window once it is not your car. I am not 100% sure on the law in this case, but I wouldn't want someone driving it around with a registration that is in my name when I no longer own the car.

 

[Virgilstar]

What I heard, is that VW may wish to retain the reg' documents, as proof (for the feds) that the vehicle was actually turned in.

 

[chadbag]

Different states have different rules. Some you can move plates to new car. Others you need to get new plates. The olds ones stay with that registration (not physically with the car!).

 

[speedrye]

What I heard, is that VW may wish to retain the reg' documents, as proof (for the feds) that the vehicle was actually turned in.

The signed liability release and proof of payment should be all the proof needed. A lot of states do their registration differently, so that wouldn't work in states like NC and others I've seen. Everyone turning in a car has to sign the release waiver though, so that to me would be the proof.

 

[DanB36]

I'd think the titles for the cars should be proof enough. They'll be taking the titles from the owners for the cars that are owned outright; the lenders will send them the titles for the financed cars.

The handling of the plates varies from state to state. I grew up in CA. In CA, the plate belongs to the car, unless it's a vanity plate. If you sell a car with a regular plate, it stays with the car. If you go to a used car lot, the cars will have plates on them, and they'll be registered to you when you buy the car.

In GA (and SC, and OH), the plate goes with the owner. When I sell a car, I keep the plate; when I buy a car, I either put a plate of mine on it or I get a new plate.

But in any case, when the cars go back, the registration is getting canceled immediately.

 

[meerschm]

We ordered a new mini (Clubman All4) to replace our TDI, and we were just planning on swapping over the plates.

However, the advice of the dealer (it's a multi-brand dealer that does VW and mini) was to just pay the $30 to the DMV and do a new registration.

Reason - it's unclear how long VW may hold onto the registration doc's for the TDIs after surrender. Last thing you want is trying the wrest the doc's from VW, just so you can move the plates onto your new car to drive it legally. For the sake of a few bucks, it's not worth the hassle. Let VW take their sweet time with the backlog, and when they release the registration just turn the old plates in at the DMV for $1.

Obviously YMMV depending on how it works in your state, but for NY this seems to be a decent strategy to avoid being wheel-less in mid November.

https://dmv.ny.gov/registration/surrender-vehicle-plates-dmv

https://dmv.ny.gov/vehicle-registration/transfer-registration-another-vehicle

https://dmv.ny.gov/registration/surrender-vehicle-plates-dmv

worth a little reading.

in NY your plates belong to the state, and you are obligated to turn in the plates before dropping insurance.

last thing you want is to be paying insurance for a car you are not driving, and do not control.

Most dealers I have been to have a scanner or copy machine, some have both! They should have for the huge fees they charge for "paperwork".

there is no good reason to delay any of the process.

with a dieselgate buyback, it is likely to be a little different than a normal trade in. more like meeting a buyer for a private sale at the dealer parking lot, and then driving away in your new car from the dealer.

but there is no reason a dealer in NY will not know how to apply plates (and registration) you supply from a previous car, recently sold, to the new one.

but if they are confused, tell them to take the $600 paperwork fee off the bill and do it yourself.

 

[newbeetleman]

In Nebraska your plates are your plates and can move to a different car. When I take mine in the plates will come with me!

 

[bubbagumpshrimp]

I think that has more to do with the dealer not wanting to mess with the paperwork than anything else. I ran into that when I bought my TDI. They basically politely said "we aren't f*****g with that." I got a good enough deal that I wasn't going to throw a fit over license plates, so I just let it go.

 

[TDIinMA]

Looking at the listings again, I see 2015 GSW TDI's selling for the same or more than 2017 gasser models, especially at the higher trim levels (SE & SEL).

One thing that dawned on me about potentially buying a 2015 is that although the depreciation would kick in fast, so would lower rates for collision and the horrid excise taxes here in MA, etc. So if one plans to have the car for a while (the risk being an accident that totals it, I suppose), wouldn't a "new" 2015 TDI be ultimately advantageous to a 2017 gasser, strictly in terms of these expenses? And shouldn't this be factored into the equation?

 

[HBarlow]

Looking at the listings again, I see 2015 GSW TDI's selling for the same or a more than 2017 gasser models, especially at the higher trim levels (SE & SEL).

One thing that dawned on me about potentially buying a 2015 is that although the depreciation would kick in fast, so would lower rates for collision and the horrid excise taxes here in MA, etc. So if one plans to have the car for a while (the risk being an accident that totals it, I suppose), wouldn't a "new" 2015 TDI be ultimately advantageous to a 2017 gasser, strictly in terms of these expenses? And shouldn't this be factored into the equation?

Current listing prices on 2015 VW TDIs mean little to nothing. VW dealers will set their prices and may or may not be willing to negotiate when the cars are actually released, reflashed, and ready for sale.

The fundamentals of economics - supply and demand - will determine the prices. If, as I expect, dealers experiences significant demand for the TDI cars prices will be high. If the cars continue to sit and collect dust prices will be discounted. Time will tell.

 

[bubbagumpshrimp]

Looking at the listings again, I see 2015 GSW TDI's selling for the same or a more than 2017 gasser models, especially at the higher trim levels (SE & SEL).

One thing that dawned on me about potentially buying a 2015 is that although the depreciation would kick in fast, so would lower rates for collision and the horrid excise taxes here in MA, etc. So if one plans to have the car for a while (the risk being an accident that totals it, I suppose), wouldn't a "new" 2015 TDI be ultimately advantageous to a 2017 gasser, strictly in terms of these expenses? And shouldn't this be factored into the equation?

On a long enough timeline, it'll be pretty much a wash.

What happens though when you wreck the 2015 TDI that you paid top dollar for two years after you purchased it? Let's say that 10/30/2016...you go out and pay $24k (for a $17k car).

Your ACTUAL depreciation curve from day one that you bought your car (as far as your insurance company is concerned) is effectively starting with a two year old car.

Fast-forward two more years (your hypothetical accident)...your car is 4+ model years old. Your depreciation is based on that fact...not "I bought a brand new TDI and they were actually selling for as much...if not more than a gasser."

Hopefully people keep that in mind when they go out and negotiate for a leftover '15. If you put enough down on it, it doesn't really matter. However, I can see someone doing a $0 down 72 month loan with VW credit on one of these, paying a premium for the car, having an accident in short order, and being WAY upside down on their loan.

 

[GyroRon]

Here where I live in SC, when you get a new plate, you have to pay sales tax on the car and also county property tax on the car up front. Then each year when the registration is about to expire they ( the county ) will send a new bill for property tax and registration renewal at the same time.

If you bought a car to replace a car, if you take the tag off the replaced car and put on the new replacement and transfer the tag / registration, you still have to pay sales tax, but you do NOT have to pay property tax, not until the registration on the plate is set to expire.

Otherwise you can get a new tag new registration for the new vehicle and pay sales and property tax upfront, and then turn in your old tag to the DMV and take proof of return receipt to the county tax office and get a prorated refund on your property tax.

 

[Airpizz6]

Bought a Jetta in PA, which I intended to register in MD. Paid $140 to the dealer in PA for documentation and a temp PA tag. MD then charged me 6% sales tax not just on the purchase price but on the additional $140 in fees as well. Amazing.
Registration is for 2 years here, but if you part with the car in the first year, you can get a refund for the second year. You apply for the refund when you turn your plates in.

 

[RalphVa]

We switched the HI MPG plates from the VW to our new Mazda3. Then bought new plates for the VW to be able to drive it to the dealer. Will surrender the title to the dealer but return these new plates back to DMV.

Were planning to call a tow truck and have the VW towed to the dealer but found out (on this forum) that it has to be driven there.

 

[bubbagumpshrimp]

We switched the HI MPG plates from the VW to our new Mazda3. Then bought new plates for the VW to be able to drive it to the dealer. Will surrender the title to the dealer but return these new plates back to DMV.

Were planning to call a tow truck and have the VW towed to the dealer but found out (on this forum) that it has to be driven there.

Why? Once you go to the VA DMV website and report the vehicle "sold"...they don't care about what happens to the plates.

 

[DanB36]

Were planning to call a tow truck and have the VW towed to the dealer but found out (on this forum) that it has to be driven there.

You "found out" wrong--there is no requirement for how the car gets to the dealer. It needs to be able to move under its own power. That's it. You can drive it, tow it, fly it, or launch it out of a catapult, as long as it can move under its own power when it gets to the dealer, it's good (so I guess the catapult isn't such a good idea).

And really, how could they prove one way or the other? How would they know whether I drive the car from my home, or from a block away?

 

[Debra Morgan]

You "found out" wrong--there is no requirement for how the car gets to the dealer. It needs to be able to move under its own power. That's it. You can drive it, tow it, fly it, or launch it out of a catapult, as long as it can move under its own power when it gets to the dealer, it's good (so I guess the catapult isn't such a good idea).

And really, how could they prove one way or the other? How would they know whether I drive the car from my home, or from a block away?

The catepault might be more visually interesting however...especially if you launched the TDI through the front plate glass window of the dealership.

 

[DanB36]

Oh, the catapult would be immensely entertaining, and there are some out there that could easily launch a car, but it would probably interfere with the "move under its own power" thing...

 

[laminated]

In Canada, the deal is not final, until you send in a section of the registration to the dmv.
that says I sold the car to xyz,, The example is, you sell a car on its last legs , and the new guy runs it around a farmers field.. You could easily on the hook they said, because they didnt get the form yet,,so fill it out, and get them even to write a received from note even ,,,