BRM – PD Magic Decoder Ring

[tassolake]

This thread is those that are new to VW but not to automobiles and is inspired by my MAF, EGR, Cylinder head and turbo replacement issues on the 2006 VW. VW has unique vocabulary and nuisances, below is a quick overview of these irregularities. (My car is a 2006 TDI, PD with the BRM motor and a 5speed manual).

If you want to work on your A5 Jetta the following tools are mandatory

• VAG-COM software and cable
• Timing Belt tools (from Metal Nerd)
• Triple Square Sockets 4mm – 14mm (14MM is for the brakes)
• A complete set of Metric Allen Keys
• Suction tool (coolant, fuel return etc).

Term definition

• Lifters in VW language are the round disks found under the Cam and over the Valves (not the rockers used for the Injectors)
• Lift Pump is the in tank fuel pump which sends fuel to the Tandem Pump
• Tandem Pump is the replacement for the old injector pump and pressurizes the fuel in the cylinder head and located at the end of the cam
• Injectors are the Valve spring devices found under the valve cover with electrical connectors.

What I have learned:

• MAF sensor with improbable value error codes is not related to MAF sensor; it is an early sign of cam and lifter failure. (Replace MAF and EGR to confirm such as I did, but it is not cheap).
• Following the factory maintenance schedule at the dealership since new, with the correct oil did not prevent the cam and lifters failing at 160,000Km (100,000 miles). Therefore yours will most likely fail as well.
• If the lifter comes completely apart and gouges the area around the lifter, a new Cylinder head is required.
• Cylinder head gaskets are sized for the Block not the cylinder head. Each gasket has a series of notches on the front of the gasket not covered by the head, replace with the exact same number of notches (apparently this is measured at the factory by how far out of the block the pistons sit after machining).
• Replacing the Cylinder Head is fairly easy compared to other brands (budget four hours to get out, One hour to swap over everything, five to put back in and two setting up the timing, or a complete weekend with beer breaks)
• Setting the timing for the Timing belt even with the special tools is not easy (Vag-Com is absolutely required for final timing adjustments)
• The PD Injectors are almost impossible to rebuild, but a quick dunk in an ultrasonic tank, without new parts does wonders for the units. (For those that tried to disassemble the injectors at home, like me).
• The Glow Plugs will break, just looking at them, always remove them before pulling the head (ask me about my new glow plugs)
• The turbo still had lots of life left at 160,000Km but it is much easier to replace when the head is off (no need to pull the EGR cooler or Driveshaft) (thank you to Cherry Turbos for the quick turn around).
• TDIForum.com is the absolutely best source for information on these vehicles and thank you to all the helpful advice when I was elbow deep into the engine.

Hints:

• After replacing the Head / Timing Belt / Tandem Pump / Injectors, hard wire 12v to the lift pump under the rear seat for a few minutes to ensure there is no air in the lines (+12vdc to the .25” blade on the flat side, GND to the other blade). Crank the engine for at least 45 seconds to see if it will fire (don’t over heat the starter). If it still won’t fire, retard the timing a hair (loosen the cam pulley bolts, hold the cam in place (18mm socket) and using the metal nerd bar turn the pulley ever so slightly counter clockwise (1mm increments). Retighten the cam bolts and try again. Eventually it will start. Then use the VAG-COM (engine controller, fourth measuring block and the fourth value) the value should be -2.5 to +2.5. Keep adjusting the cam pulley until it is within this range (Car will start with -4.0 but will not start with +5).

Final word of advice, please ask the knowledgeable experts on this forum for help when you are stuck. (Dan has talked me off the ledge a few times, Thank you Dan).

Happy holidays to all.

 

[theinternot]

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I'm sure it will be helpful.

This thread is those that are new to VW but not to automobiles and is inspired by my MAF, EGR, Cylinder head and turbo replacement issues on the 2006 VW. VW has unique vocabulary and nuisances, below is a quick overview of these irregularities. (My car is a 2006 TDI, PD with the BRM motor and a 5speed manual).

If you want to work on your A5 Jetta the following tools are mandatory

• VAG-COM software and cable
• Timing Belt tools (from Metal Nerd)
• Triple Square Sockets 4mm – 14mm (14MM is for the brakes)
• A complete set of Metric Allen Keys
• Suction tool (coolant, fuel return etc).

Term definition

• Lifters in VW language are the round disks found under the Cam and over the Valves (not the rockers used for the Injectors)
• Lift Pump is the in tank fuel pump which sends fuel to the Tandem Pump
• Tandem Pump is the replacement for the old injector pump and pressurizes the fuel in the cylinder head and located at the end of the cam
• Injectors are the Valve spring devices found under the valve cover with electrical connectors.

What I have learned:

• MAF sensor with improbable value error codes is not related to MAF sensor; it is an early sign of cam and lifter failure. (Replace MAF and EGR to confirm such as I did, but it is not cheap).
• Following the factory maintenance schedule at the dealership since new, with the correct oil did not prevent the cam and lifters failing at 160,000Km (100,000 miles). Therefore yours will most likely fail as well.
• If the lifter comes completely apart and gouges the area around the lifter, a new Cylinder head is required.
• Cylinder head gaskets are sized for the Block not the cylinder head. Each gasket has a series of notches on the front of the gasket not covered by the head, replace with the exact same number of notches (apparently this is measured at the factory by how far out of the block the pistons sit after machining).
• Replacing the Cylinder Head is fairly easy compared to other brands (budget four hours to get out, One hour to swap over everything, five to put back in and two setting up the timing, or a complete weekend with beer breaks)
• Setting the timing for the Timing belt even with the special tools is not easy (Vag-Com is absolutely required for final timing adjustments)
• The PD Injectors are almost impossible to rebuild, but a quick dunk in an ultrasonic tank, without new parts does wonders for the units. (For those that tried to disassemble the injectors at home, like me).
• The Glow Plugs will break, just looking at them, always remove them before pulling the head (ask me about my new glow plugs)
• The turbo still had lots of life left at 160,000Km but it is much easier to replace when the head is off (no need to pull the EGR cooler or Driveshaft) (thank you to Cherry Turbos for the quick turn around).
• TDIForum.com is the absolutely best source for information on these vehicles and thank you to all the helpful advice when I was elbow deep into the engine.

Hints:

• After replacing the Head / Timing Belt / Tandem Pump / Injectors, hard wire 12v to the lift pump under the rear seat for a few minutes to ensure there is no air in the lines (+12vdc to the .25” blade on the flat side, GND to the other blade). Crank the engine for at least 45 seconds to see if it will fire (don’t over heat the starter). If it still won’t fire, retard the timing a hair (loosen the cam pulley bolts, hold the cam in place (18mm socket) and using the metal nerd bar turn the pulley ever so slightly counter clockwise (1mm increments). Retighten the cam bolts and try again. Eventually it will start. Then use the VAG-COM (engine controller, fourth measuring block and the fourth value) the value should be -2.5 to +2.5. Keep adjusting the cam pulley until it is within this range (Car will start with -4.0 but will not start with +5).

Final word of advice, please ask the knowledgeable experts on this forum for help when you are stuck. (Dan has talked me off the ledge a few times, Thank you Dan).

Happy holidays to all.

 

[GR40RCapri]

Boy,

If I knew THEN what I know NOW! UGH

 

[A5INKY]

Kind of you to take the time to share what you have learned. However, for the sake of posterity, there are a few notes I would like to add.

[*]MAF sensor with improbable value error codes is not related to MAF sensor; it is an early sign of cam and lifter failure. (Replace MAF and EGR to confirm such as I did, but it is not cheap).

This is not the only possible cause for MAF codes. Higher level diagnostics are employed by mechanics once fault codes are read to pinpoint root cause. Far too many part replacements are performed based on code reader data without consideration for why a particular sensor is flagging trouble. Sorry, but your MAF and EGR replacements were completely avoidable had these diagnostics been performed.

[*]Cylinder head gaskets are sized for the Block not the cylinder head. Each gasket has a series of notches on the front of the gasket not covered by the head, replace with the exact same number of notches (apparently this is measured at the factory by how far out of the block the pistons sit after machining).

"Sized for the block" is not entirely accurate. Piston protrusion sets a few critical enough dimensions that VW uses different head gasket thicknesses to correct manufactured part tolerance 'stacking' in the bottom end. Piston to head surface (or squish) is important in every engine to varying degrees, but a TDI also has the added importance of injector distance to piston bowl.

What is correct is that a gasket of the same hole count should be used unless anything in the bottom end (block, piston, rods or crank) is changed. If any of those things are changed then piston protrusion must be measured and head gasket sized appropriately.

[*]The PD Injectors are almost impossible to rebuild, but a quick dunk in an ultrasonic tank, without new parts does wonders for the units. (For those that tried to disassemble the injectors at home, like me).

Probably better to say they ARE impossible to rebuild without the correct tools. Don't try this at home folks! You will destroy very expensive parts.

[*]...If it still won’t fire, retard the timing a hair (loosen the cam pulley bolts, hold the cam in place (18mm socket) and using the metal nerd bar turn the pulley ever so slightly counter clockwise (1mm increments). Retighten the cam bolts and try again. Eventually it will start. Then use the VAG-COM (engine controller, fourth measuring block and the fourth value) the value should be -2.5 to +2.5. Keep adjusting the cam pulley until it is within this range (Car will start with -4.0 but will not start with +5).

If this scenario of having to retard timing after mechanically setting it to get the car to start happened to you. Sorry, but something went way wrong in the initial timing belt tension set-up. Using the proper crank, cam locks and procedure I have never had timing more than .5 to 1 degree off on initial start-up. Done properly and aiming for 0 degrees of "Torsion", you don't really even need VCDS. The locks and proper tensioner set-up will get things really darn close. If I found my VCDS Torsion value out as far upon initial startup as you describe, I would be really concerned.

Don't mean to be overly critical, but your post is so well written and layed out that it sounds fairly authoritative. I am mearly offering a few clarifications.

 

[Ol'Rattler]

If this scenario of having to retard timing after mechanically setting it to get the car to start happened to you. Sorry, but something went way wrong in the initial timing belt tension set-up. Using the proper crank, cam locks and procedure I have never had timing more than .5 to 1 degree off on initial start-up. Done properly and aiming for 0 degrees of "Torsion", you don't really even need VCDS. The locks and proper tensioner set-up will get things really darn close. If I found my VCDS Torsion value out as far upon initial startup as you describe, I would be really concerned.

I agree with this. When the belt is tensioned, the cam sprocket needs to rotate on the cam hub.

Something I do after tensioning and tightening the 3 cam bolts is when I do my 2 turns at the crank, stop just as the crank lock is a slip fit Then I will tweak the tension if it is off. last I will loosen the 3 bolts on the cam and tweak the the cam by the big bolt so the cam lock is a slip fit.

If you turn 2 more turns your tension will be correct and your lock tools will both be a slip fit. When I installed my belt twice with this added step, my Torsion was Zero one time and -1 the second time. Tosion, although nice to check isn't really necessarily.

 

[tassolake]

Thank you A5inky and Ol Rattler, the original post was not meant to be authortian but just keep everyone on the right track.

It's actually time to replace the timing belt again, I did use the correct tools for that last post, but will modify the process as specified above.

Again it is the great work of all the smart people on this forum that makes my life easier......
Happy holidays.

 

[cobra390t]

If this scenario of having to retard timing after mechanically setting it to get the car to start happened to you. Sorry, but something went way wrong in the initial timing belt tension set-up. Using the proper crank, cam locks and procedure I have never had timing more than .5 to 1 degree off on initial start-up. Done properly and aiming for 0 degrees of "Torsion", you don't really even need VCDS. The locks and proper tensioner set-up will get things really darn close. If I found my VCDS Torsion value out as far upon initial startup as you describe, I would be really concerned.

Don't mean to be overly critical, but your post is so well written and layed out that it sounds fairly authoritative. I am mearly offering a few clarifications.

+1. I agree 100%

 

[gabsza]

What to do if my torsion -7 and the engine is running right, but when set near to the 0 is sound like missfireing. I think i have to move the the camsprocketto right angle, but i dont know how to do it.

 

[A5INKY]

What to do if my torsion -7 and the engine is running right, but when set near to the 0 is sound like missfireing. I think i have to move the the camsprocketto right angle, but i dont know how to do it.

Should have used the right tools when changing the TB. I was not aware torsion would read as high as 7 degrees out, but then again I have never gotten one that far off. I suspect your "0" value when you change it is not actually 0 degrees. VCDS will read "0" when the adjustment is too far out of range.

With values that far off I would forget VCDS for a while and start over with mechanical timing the cam using the correct locating tools for crank and cam. You may be flirting with a valve to piston party crash with things that far off. Do it right and you will never be more than 1 degree from a true 0 value with a mechanical setting alone.

 

[jjblbi]

What to do if my torsion -7 and the engine is running right, but when set near to the 0 is sound like missfireing. I think i have to move the the camsprocketto right angle, but i dont know how to do it.

Is this torsion (-7) reading obtained after setting the timing with the cam & crank pinned? If so you may be off a tooth on your timing belt.

If you are not mechanically inclined Roth Auto in Lansdale http://www.rothautoservice.com/index.html may be able to help.

 

[Paulers]

good info

Thanks for the info. Good to know what people are talking about when reading the forum. Still learning about my PD BRM engine

 

[Ol'Rattler]

Is this torsion (-7) reading obtained after setting the timing with the cam & crank pinned? If so you may be off a tooth on your timing belt.

If you are not mechanically inclined Roth Auto in Lansdale http://www.rothautoservice.com/index.html may be able to help.

Well, sort of. If both pins are a slip fit with the belt at correct tension, then the crank to cam timing is very close to zero. One tooth off would cause the 3 cam bolts to be close to the end of travel in the slots.

A5INKY explained it pretty well............