break in period after rebuilding

[GuyGuy]

So I'm in the process of refreshing my motor with my port and polished head, l.c. coated pistons with a new set of rings, doing a timing belt, a new water pump, new front crank seal.

I have read a fair bit of DBW's break in period but did not see anything about modified or rebuilt engines.

any thoughts.

thanks

 

[hid3]

The same as for the new ones, that's for sure.

 

[mrchill]

If you are concerned, by al means follow a regular break in procedure. I personally drive my cars hard immediately after the build to test them for weakness. Havent had any problems yet.

 

[mojogoes]

If you are concerned, by al means follow a regular break in procedure. I personally drive my cars hard immediately after the build to test them for weakness. Havent had any problems yet.

Snap!!

 

[ArturCosta]

My new engine is with 5000 km now , I did the first 1k km very slow just to be shure it breaks in without any damage but after that I started pushing hard because it was starting to "eat" to much oil.
Now I change the oil and its eating a bit again but its normal and drove it to 5000rpm some times when it had 4000 km

Regards

 

[dieseleux]

The diesel engine is for its hard work ... All the time, from beginning to end!



Dieseleux​

 

[ccvdubs]

Thats a good question, diesels take a long time to break in. Bummer if your wanting to push these engines hard. And the only thing i would be concerned about is pushing hard before 6000 / 10000 miles. I know a lot of people beat up there vehicles/engines from GO but in my opinion thats why they burn oil, or dont make the kinda power they could make. Compared to gasoline engines break in is lengthy.

 

[dieseleux]

In the machines, the engines are fully used first hour, to make good health of the engine for the last!



Dieseleux

 

[ccvdubs]

In the machines, the engines are fully used first hour, to make good health of the engine for the last!



Dieseleux

sorry man you lost me

 

[LNXGUY]

sorry man you lost me

He is saying that in machinery that utilize diesel engines they are broken in running under 100% load.

I haven't broken in a diesel easily and never plan to. Drive it like you stole it.

 

[hatemi]

Use some mineral oil at first. Change it first time after 100km. Then fill again with same crap. Drive it with 2000rpm-4000rpm with varying loads but dont baby it and DONT use too much torque below 2000. There isnt enough oil preasure. Change the oil to a good one after first tank is through and drive it like you would have wanted to during the brake in It will use some oil and the blowby is still pretty high but it will settle in after a while.

Brake in period for a turbo. There isnt any. There is no metal to metal contact there. Or if there is then its made wrong in the first place Just fill it with clean oil before first start.

 

[shizzler]

I work in a dyno lab, testing engines. The ideal way to break in an engine quickly for reliable life is to step it gradually through increasing speed and load. Typically 5 to 10 hours in duration. Now, thats harder to do in a car, so I would say just loaf it around for a couple hours, then start getting into it gradually, and you'll be good.

10k miles of light loads only is ridiculous. The main goal is to get the piston rings to wear in with the cylinders, through the entire range of operation.

 

[GuyGuy]

thanks for the info guys, I will first start it and let it idle for a couple of minutes, then will follow procedures

don't go under 2500rpm, lay off the boost under 2000rpm, vary my speed and change the oil after 1000 miles.

I will be using petro canada duron-e NON-Synthetic
http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/resource/download.aspx?type=TechData&iproduct=176&language=en

 

[Bush Hopper]

after the rebuild, let it idle for 1-2 hours, and make sure there are no leaks.

 

[Got Bearings?]

after the rebuild, let it idle for 1-2 hours, and make sure there are no leaks.

You only need 5 minutes for that.

Drive it hard but in a methodical manner. The rings will seat quickly and how you break it in plays a part in that. I've used the instructions in the link below.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[hatemi]

Letting it idle too that long is just unneeded and actually not that good idea. I would rather start beating it from the first start than baby it. When you buy a new car you need to brake in the gearbox and that plays alot in the OEM recomendations.

 

[ccvdubs]

Letting it idle too that long is just unneeded and actually not that good idea. I would rather start beating it from the first start than baby it. When you buy a new car you need to brake in the gearbox and that plays alot in the OEM recomendations.

i agree with the first part of your statement but as far as beating it when new thats ridiculous imo . And as far as light loads only , i dont think any body recomends that

 

[ArturCosta]

I also read everything here about break in and talked to a lot of mechanics... in the end I ended up doing a bit of everything...
My engine idled for more less 2h first time and then another 2h the second day to check for leaks and problems. Then it went to the road... as I do 150km a day more less I did first 500km never getting past 2500rpm... the after that I would rev it over that going downhill and shift later.
At 1500km start betting it but with stock remap at 1.1bars... at 2000km it would do 210kmh with no smoke and 1.1bars
At 3000km it did 225kmh same place with 1.3bars.
At 4000km nearly 240kmh with 1.55bars
Now... its still does not more then that lol

Bottom line is , drive it because you cant do wrong. lol

Regards

 

[E_T_V]

I guess I can add some fuel to the fire considering my materials background.

Proceedure that I use for rebuilt engines is this:
1. Lubricate everything liberally upon assembly (as this is the only oil that will be present on cranking the engine)
2. Crank the engine with injection disabled (if possible) until oil pressure is built up
3. Start car
4. Allow to idle for 30 seconds (allows oil to circulate)
5. Raise RPM gradually over about a minute to about 50% of max rpm. (Prevents cams galling and helps bed in rings)
6. Hold at this rpm for a few minutes until the engine gets to temperature. (allows any temp sensitive gaskets to seal fully)
7. Raise rpm gradually to about 75% of max rpm in short intervals (to help bed in rings)
8. Drive normally for first 50 miles or so
9. Drive progressively harder for next 100-200 miles till you are driving it like you stole it (Rings bed in properly reducing oil consumption).
10. Change oil (to remove any swarf generated).

Job done.

Use mineral oil for the first couple of oil changes, i.e. upto 15k miles or so. After that use whatever you prefer.

 

[Bush Hopper]

I also read everything here about break in and talked to a lot of mechanics... in the end I ended up doing a bit of everything...
My engine idled for more less 2h first time and then another 2h the second day to check for leaks and problems.

bingo.