Brake line flush/bleed: location of the clutch bleeder on a '12 JSW

[MilanorTSW]

Hello,

I am bleeding my brakes for the frist time on this car and I'm a bit confused about the location of the clutch bleeder valve.

I am following this tutorial:

How to bleed the brake and clutch fluid on your mk5 or mk6 VW and Audi A3

How to change the brake and clutch fluid on your mk5, mk6 VW, or Audi A3

www.myturbodiesel.com

I removed the air box, but I cannot locate the clutch slave cylinder.
There is this bleeder close to the starter, but this doesn't seem right:

http://imgur.com/if2lwRB

Appreciate the help!

 

[tactdi]

Yes, that is the clutch bleeder valve (nipple with the white outer ring), the clutch slave is in the bell housing (search for pictures).

Some pointers, the bleed screw is plastic, so be careful, use a box end wrench to prevent stripping. You do not need to open the screw
very much to start fluid to flow.
It is a pain in the a__ to bleed, I used a reverse bleed technique.

Since the brakes and the clutch share the same reservoir, connect a tube between the front brake caliper (drivers side) bleed screw, and
the clutch slave bleed screw. Open both bleed screws, and pump the brake pedal slowly to force fluid from the brake caliper
into the clutch slave and up to the master cylinder, pushing the air bubbles up. After a number of pumps and ensuring
the tube between the caliper and slave was full of fluid, and you feel the fluid had flowed up from the slave into the master,
close both bleed screws.
Check for a firm clutch and brake pedal, then carefully removed the tube that was full of fluid (be careful to catch any drips).

 

[turbobrick240]

I'd follow the tutorial instructions. If you don't have a vacuum bleeder, a helper to work the pedal as you open and close the bleeder makes life much easier.

 

[MilanorTSW]

Thanks, this helps a lot!

What about the ABS? Do I have to use VCDS right away at the start of the bleeding? Or do I bleed once, then again with the ABS pump on?

 

[turbobrick240]

If you're just bleeding the clutch circuit (and not the brakes) you don't need to mess with VCDS or the ABS pump. And you don't need to use VCDS to activate the ABS pump on a brake bleed unless air has been introduced into the system.

 

[MilanorTSW]

I'll be bleeding the entire system including the clutch, but good to know.

The brake fluid in the car hasn't been changed for a few years, so I want to flush everything.

 

[turbobrick240]

A pressure bleeder like described in the tutorial is really the ideal solution. Before I made one, I drilled holes in spare master cylinder caps and inserted tire valve stems on several vehicles. Then used a bicycle tire pump to lightly pressurize the reservoir after filling nearly full. Then bleed one corner, retop up the res with fluid and repeat on the next corner. I kept an eye on how much fluid was bled out so as not to empty the res and allow air into the system.

Edit: I found this video describing the super simple pressure bleeder caps I used to make:

 

[pipesta]

+1 for getting yourself a pressure bleeder, you'll thank yourself later lol

 

[MilanorTSW]

Attempted to do it the old fashioned manual way, somehow ended up letting a lot of air into the system and lost the clutch lol.
Maybe the 1/4" fit on the hose was not good, but the clutch alone definitely doesn't build a whole lot of pressure by itself.

I hooked up the line to bleeder, had a helper press the clutch, opened the valve and mostly air is coming into the tube at this point.
I repeated a whole bunch of times, but no dice.

Guess I'll end up getting a pressure bleeder, but I'll try the reverse bleed technique described by tactdi.
Any other pointers I should know why so much air could have come through the hose? I had no real problems with the clutch, I just wanted to make sure there is clear fluid everywhere.

 

[turbobrick240]

I wouldn't do that weird reverse bleed. The nastiest fluid and contaminants collect in the brake calipers. You'd just be pushing that crap into your slave cylinder and master cylinder. Your helper probably didn't keep the pedal depressed until you closed the bleed screw. It takes good communication with the helper.

 

[MilanorTSW]

Oh yeah, if I had to do it, I would do it with completely fresh fluid after bleeding the calipers as well.

For others reading, it did turn out to be a poor fit on the hose.

The 1/4" ID that works great on the brake calipers is too loose for the clutch bleeder, once I hooked up a 3/16" ID hose it is going much more smoothly and I got pressure in the clutch again.

 

[tactdi]

Good you got the clutch bleed. Can be difficult to get a good firm pedal, once air is in the system.

I also have a master cylinder cap with a valve stem inserted. Used that technique also to bleed brakes and clutches. Also have a bleed bottle with
a hose that goes to the bottom of the bottle, put some brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle, connect to the bleed valve, and open.
Let the fluid fill the hose into the bottle, and then slowly pump the pedal, with the fluid filled into the bottle, pumping the pedal back and forth
slowly bleeds the air out, pump several times, then close the bleed valve, then pump the pedal to firm it up, repeat as needed.

Since I bleed the brakes and clutch as a one-man job, I have used different techniques depending on which one works for the situation. Bottle and hose, slow pump; home-made pressure bleeder with the master cylinder cap; reverse bleed. Sometimes I even gravity bleed, open the bleed valve
and let the fluid slow drain, topping up the master, and then performing a typical pedal bleed.

 

[turbobrick240]

You can make a decent pressure bleeder with one of these caps and a ~$10 1 gallon garden sprayer.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/euro-bleeder-replacement-cap/07237sch02a/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA-oqdBhDfARIsAO0TrGGDk_2iLvVCgc6FiyweiuUhNiGVOSIKebcEUj-stP55E1biaDKIrowaAmMKEALw_wcB