Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
I did a thread like this for Valeo alternators and Bosch starters. I just finished rebuilding a Bosch alternator, and took a lot of photos. If you have a Valeo, it's a little different. You can find that thread HERE
Here it goes!
Start with the before photos. This one was a previous O'Reilly's reman, and did still work when I removed it from a 2003 Jetta I parted out.
Step one: remove the two nuts on the back. One is the positive terminal, the other one helps hold the cover on.
Step two: remove the one Phillips head screw from the cover.
Step three remove the regulator and the rest of the rectifier screws (note: if you're not replacing the rectifier you don't need to remove the rectifier screws)
Then pull the regulator out. Most of the ones I've done look similar to this, with the grooved slip rings and worn brushes.
Step 5: (optional, for if you're replacing rectifier) unsolder the rectifier joints. OEM ones weren't soldered, they were hot crimped and can be removed with a screwdriver and carefully prying the two wires apart. Carefully pry the rectifier off.
Step 6: remove the four through bolts and tap the two halves apart (if not replacing rectifier, the stator will come off with the rear housing)
Step 7: remove the pulley. You'll need the clutch pulley tool to remove it. Then gently press the rotor out of the middle on the housing. I use a hydraulic press, though hitting it on a block of wood or lead can be another way to get the rotor out.
Step 8: remove the four screws holding the front bearing holder in place and tap the bearing out.
At this point, here's what my alternator looks like:
Next post will have info on removing the slip rings.
Here it goes!
Step one: remove the two nuts on the back. One is the positive terminal, the other one helps hold the cover on.
Step two: remove the one Phillips head screw from the cover.
Step three remove the regulator and the rest of the rectifier screws (note: if you're not replacing the rectifier you don't need to remove the rectifier screws)
Then pull the regulator out. Most of the ones I've done look similar to this, with the grooved slip rings and worn brushes.
Step 5: (optional, for if you're replacing rectifier) unsolder the rectifier joints. OEM ones weren't soldered, they were hot crimped and can be removed with a screwdriver and carefully prying the two wires apart. Carefully pry the rectifier off.
Step 6: remove the four through bolts and tap the two halves apart (if not replacing rectifier, the stator will come off with the rear housing)
Step 7: remove the pulley. You'll need the clutch pulley tool to remove it. Then gently press the rotor out of the middle on the housing. I use a hydraulic press, though hitting it on a block of wood or lead can be another way to get the rotor out.
Step 8: remove the four screws holding the front bearing holder in place and tap the bearing out.
At this point, here's what my alternator looks like:
Next post will have info on removing the slip rings.
Last edited:
