Right. I haven't tried a whole revolution backwards as I remember reading somewhere here that it could cause damage. I did move it a few degrees when putting it in to get it to seat against the TC also if I havent mentioned before it is a 09A trans.
Binding when trying to turn crank.
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Mozambiquer
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As far as I know, the only reason that it could cause damage to turn it backwards would be because of the crank bolt backing out. I would attempt to turn it backwards as far as you can and see if that makes a difference.
I assume from your statements that even with the transmission disconnected, it doesn't turn all the way?
Vince Waldon
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Yeah, we really should have clarified your symptoms before we got 2 pages in. 
I understood it to be "not turning at all", per the previous post. If it is turning but hitting some kind of stop internally, it's not harmonic damper bolts or ring deposits, and you can't just pull the timing belt to narrow it down since the valves will block full rotation.
With no glow plugs (and hence no compression) there's very little risk of backing the crank bolt out, so I'd be inclined to see if it's mostly stopping in the same place from either direction.
That said, 95% of the time if an engine can rotate normally back and forth but hits a stop it's hitting a valve, which means the timing belt was installed incorrectly. Engine has to be locked at TDC with the special alignment gig, and the cam has to be locked at TDC with the alignment pin all the way in.
If you really need to confirm it's a valve the quickest way is to loosen and then remove the camand see if the engine spins freely. Removing the cam insures all valves are completely retracted and out of the way. This may be the easiest way to get the engine and cam back to TDC (should the whatever stop it's hitting prevent you from getting there).
But, for my money your best bet would be: start over with the timing belt, ensuring both the crank and cam are locked at TDC, and following the pdf step-by-step.
I understood it to be "not turning at all", per the previous post. If it is turning but hitting some kind of stop internally, it's not harmonic damper bolts or ring deposits, and you can't just pull the timing belt to narrow it down since the valves will block full rotation.
With no glow plugs (and hence no compression) there's very little risk of backing the crank bolt out, so I'd be inclined to see if it's mostly stopping in the same place from either direction.
That said, 95% of the time if an engine can rotate normally back and forth but hits a stop it's hitting a valve, which means the timing belt was installed incorrectly. Engine has to be locked at TDC with the special alignment gig, and the cam has to be locked at TDC with the alignment pin all the way in.
If you really need to confirm it's a valve the quickest way is to loosen and then remove the camand see if the engine spins freely. Removing the cam insures all valves are completely retracted and out of the way. This may be the easiest way to get the engine and cam back to TDC (should the whatever stop it's hitting prevent you from getting there).
But, for my money your best bet would be: start over with the timing belt, ensuring both the crank and cam are locked at TDC, and following the pdf step-by-step.
MOGolf
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You've clearly got cam and crank out of sync with pistons contacting valves.
If you're lucky, the crank would be approaching piston 1 TDC when you're currently making contact. Remove GP in cylinder 1 and you may be able to see the top of cylinder 1 with the crank mark getting ready to match up with the locking tool if you turn crank now. If not, remove other GPs and determine which piston is approaching TDC.
You'll have to take the belt off, turn the crank backwards about 90 degrees so that all pistons are about at 1/2 stroke (completely away from the valves).
Take the cover off the head, and turn the cam so that the valves of cylinder approaching TDC are closed (based on lobe positions) and the next rotation would start to open the cylinder's intake valve. Do not force turning the cam. You don't want to push valves into pistons but they should not make contact if you've turn the crank back far enough and not too far.
Turn the crank so that the piston noted above is at TDC or as close as you can approximate it, put the belt on without moving crank or cam, and slowly hand turn the engine. It should rotate fully.
Next would be to validate that the TDC/locking is aligned for cylinder 1 with valves/cam lobes in proper position. If not, you're most likely 180 degrees off. If that is the case, remove the belt, turn crank back 90 degrees and turn cam 180 degrees, turn crank back to TDC/locking, and reinstall belt. Manually turn the crank again to validate no contact.
Once more, validate the crank lock position, cam lobes positioned correctly for cylinder 1, fine tune physical timing as needed. Install head cover.
Take your time. Don't rush. Do not force anything.
Do not attempt this procedure if you don't understand it.
Your other choice is to remove the cam, turn cylinder 1 to TDC/locking position, and install cam so that cylinder 1 lobes are not opening valves. However, most of the bolts required for that are 1 time use and you'd need a new set, if I recall correctly.
If you're lucky, the crank would be approaching piston 1 TDC when you're currently making contact. Remove GP in cylinder 1 and you may be able to see the top of cylinder 1 with the crank mark getting ready to match up with the locking tool if you turn crank now. If not, remove other GPs and determine which piston is approaching TDC.
You'll have to take the belt off, turn the crank backwards about 90 degrees so that all pistons are about at 1/2 stroke (completely away from the valves).
Take the cover off the head, and turn the cam so that the valves of cylinder approaching TDC are closed (based on lobe positions) and the next rotation would start to open the cylinder's intake valve. Do not force turning the cam. You don't want to push valves into pistons but they should not make contact if you've turn the crank back far enough and not too far.
Turn the crank so that the piston noted above is at TDC or as close as you can approximate it, put the belt on without moving crank or cam, and slowly hand turn the engine. It should rotate fully.
Next would be to validate that the TDC/locking is aligned for cylinder 1 with valves/cam lobes in proper position. If not, you're most likely 180 degrees off. If that is the case, remove the belt, turn crank back 90 degrees and turn cam 180 degrees, turn crank back to TDC/locking, and reinstall belt. Manually turn the crank again to validate no contact.
Once more, validate the crank lock position, cam lobes positioned correctly for cylinder 1, fine tune physical timing as needed. Install head cover.
Take your time. Don't rush. Do not force anything.
Do not attempt this procedure if you don't understand it.
Your other choice is to remove the cam, turn cylinder 1 to TDC/locking position, and install cam so that cylinder 1 lobes are not opening valves. However, most of the bolts required for that are 1 time use and you'd need a new set, if I recall correctly.
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jmodge
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The issue with rolling the engine backwards is disturbing the tensioner setting. Unlikely to loosen the crank bolt, they are on tight
tgray
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Sounds like you have valves hitting the pistons or the engine sat so long the cylinders rusted and you are feeling that binding things up. Something is wrong. Start checking your alignments carefully, did you you use a crank lock? If not I would say you are not timed right. There is a way without the proper locking tool but you really have to know what you are doing.
I will re read all the suggestions and start figuring it out Thursday when I'm off. I really tried to line everything up correctly. I got a bare block with the #1 and 4 piston at the top (which I believe is TDC). From that point I put the head on and started putting the accessories on and didnt put the timing belt together until right before I tried to put the motor in the car itself. Does anyone know if franks cam cap bolts are reusable? I think letting the valves retract and resetting the cam might be the way to go but I'm still all ears.
This is my first serious build and I knew I was gonna have hurdles along the way but why at the end.
This is my first serious build and I knew I was gonna have hurdles along the way but why at the end.
jmodge
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Depending on how you install the cam you could be TDI compression stroke or exhaust stroke
jmodge
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Tdc
jokila
Vendor
Did you use the proper crank lock too? On a BEW it's on the crankshaft gear on the front of the motor.
Please give more information.
I have no idea I received the head assembled.
I used the locking set from Metalnerd. What other information would you like?
jokila
Vendor
When you installed the cam to the head, you need to ensure it's positioned at the TDC mark when the crank is at its TDC mark. Did you do that? Nothing you have said so far in any post confirms your understanding of that relationship or that you did that. It would explain why the engine is locking up. The metalnerd tools do no good if you do not understand what they are used for.
The times i have had to install a head to block, i always check to make sure the crank is at TDC first (with the tool), then rotate the crank in reverse for about 90 degrees. This puts all of the pistons about halfway in their bore so they have no chance to touch the valves.
You then assemble the head to the block. After that, then you rotate the cam to its TDC for which you use the lock pin. Then, rotate the crank clockwise to TDC and put the timing belt on.
I think your mistake might be you don't know if the engine was at TDC when you put the head on and installed the timing belt.
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So late update. I went back re-read the timing belt service PDF and gave Frank a call. I think it was stated earlier in the thread about rolling the crank back 180*, that is where I failed. I kept the nipple on the crank pulley at the 12 o clock position instead of the 6. Once I fixed that put the timing belt back on it rolled smoothly with no issues and now its locked again and on its way back into the car.