BHW TDI with 02m->02d syncro->0a5 4motion swap into Eurovan

iwannajettatdi

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2015 Brilliant Black Audi Q5 3.0TDI, 2014 Tempest Blue metallic Jetta Sportwagen TDI, 2002 Blue Eurovan Weekender BHW TDI
Just finding this thread now. :)

My EV swap is fairly mundane compared to your very ambitious project. I haven't created a thread but am nearing completion: ALH + EWB.
Yeah, I still have the 4mo 02d 5 speed if you know anyone that might need it. It would have been much easier with an ALH or 1Z and the 02d, but I think this will get me what I want out of it more easily.
 

iwannajettatdi

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so long as iwannajettatdi is ok with me sharing in his thread. Otherwise:
Dang, greengeeker, that looks good! What turbo and manifold are you using? How is the wiring coming with the ALH? I have the 02d... I wasn't happy with the gear ratios for where I live. I have a taller 5th if you need/want one, I bet I can be talked out of it pretty easy. It's been sitting on a shelf for 4 years now. They are pretty easy to swap out, like in an 02j jetta/golf, just have quite a bit more room. I also got one of the pinion braces that fit in the clutch housing side for an 02a/b to support the higher HP of the BHW and where I wanted to take it. A thought for you for your gearbox at some point.

I'll get some photos tonight, I'm hoping to get the main dash put back in and work on the mount for the boost and EGT gauges. I'm going to try and modify an MK4 steering column pod mount for the EV steering column. It might end poorly.

I got the brakes and clutch bled, the instruments fire up, and everything seems to be functional. I think I may try and start it tomorrow. I've got most of the fluids back in, and I've been letting it sit before topping everything up to watch for leaks. Woo, buddy. Almost game time. Oh, and I finished my homemade trammel bar to adjust my toe alignment. Too much fun.
 

greengeeker

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Dang, greengeeker, that looks good! What turbo and manifold are you using? How is the wiring coming with the ALH? I have the 02d... I wasn't happy with the gear ratios for where I live. I have a taller 5th if you need/want one, I bet I can be talked out of it pretty easy. It's been sitting on a shelf for 4 years now. They are pretty easy to swap out, like in an 02j jetta/golf, just have quite a bit more room. I also got one of the pinion braces that fit in the clutch housing side for an 02a/b to support the higher HP of the BHW and where I wanted to take it. A thought for you for your gearbox at some point.
Thanks!

I found this manifold online - it is for a VW Fox from SPA Turbo. GTB2056vk

Wiring was fairly straightforward. I spent a ton of time mapping out my circuits. Name of the game was identifying the circuits going into the cabin from the original vr6 and auto trans, to be used for power as well as cruise, throttle pedal, clutch etc. One open item I have is i the D/x circuit (normally 12v, 0v during cranking) which is used to cut power to glow plugs during cranking. Does the EV make use of this function or is there a part of the fuse panel I can tap into? I haven't found it. TIA

Transmission strength is a concern and something I don't want to test as this thing was $$ and took a long time to get.

I'll get some photos tonight, I'm hoping to get the main dash put back in and work on the mount for the boost and EGT gauges. I'm going to try and modify an MK4 steering column pod mount for the EV steering column. It might end poorly.
lol. Thanks for that. :) I've got a mcnally egt/boost gauge I haven't yet decided where to mount. I'd love to find a pillar mount way down near the dash. On my TDI Ranger I just plopped it directly on the dash and it happily lived there.

I got the brakes and clutch bled, the instruments fire up, and everything seems to be functional. I think I may try and start it tomorrow. I've got most of the fluids back in, and I've been letting it sit before topping everything up to watch for leaks. Woo, buddy. Almost game time. Oh, and I finished my homemade trammel bar to adjust my toe alignment. Too much fun.
I'm at the same point as you essentially. Moments from first fire. I have the original TDI cluster and the EV cluster - former has my can-based glow plug operation, the latter is happy with the ABS system and e-brake operation. I think I'll send these out to Custers by Litke to merge the bits.
 

Zeitgeist

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'04 Variant and Vanagon mTDI
Looks great! What are you two doing for oil pans with these newer engines?
 

iwannajettatdi

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Looks great! What are you two doing for oil pans with these newer engines?
I used a T5 pan from the UK. The T4 pans dont fit because the oil pump is in the back and it has a bulge like the 1z and ahu tdi motors. If I wasn't hell bent on the awd/4motion function, it would have been an easy swap with a steel pan and maybe a touch of clearancing. I was never happy with the pans I made to clear the transfer box, which is one of the reasons I opted for the newer gearbox. I also now have a 7L oil capacity! Someone with more fine fab or aluminum welding experience than me may have better luck?
 

iwannajettatdi

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2015 Brilliant Black Audi Q5 3.0TDI, 2014 Tempest Blue metallic Jetta Sportwagen TDI, 2002 Blue Eurovan Weekender BHW TDI
I got it started again! And getting the abs pump power stopped my abs light from flashing angrily at me. I just need to run vcds, clear the airbag codes, and poke around a little more.

If you figure out how to make the EV abs system talk to your ecu, let me know. I rewired the sensors of the EV to use the passat sensors from my parts car, so I could use the Passat system that I knew the ABS and ECU worked with. The ABS pumps aren't recode-able as far as I know, and each ECU will only accept one or two variants, so getting it to play nicely may be a total PITA. The EV ABS and asr system is a little different than the Passat, but here's hoping it'll work for me. The Passat ABS had ESP and an EDL function, at least the model I have, so I also wanted to keep that.

I have a small coolant leak that I want to fix, and then its test drive time. I'm working on that as well as adjusting the seat bases for the MK5 gti seats I got tonight. I think I'm going to need to cut the seat bases down 1.5-2" so that they aren't sitting too high. The seat adjusting mechanism is complicated enough that I havent figured out a way to easily narrow and lower it over the past few days. I suppose I could just set the height and angle, and weld the rails at the right angle and position. Hmm. Still a work in progress.

I know, I know, We nEeD pIcTuReS!!! Smugmug wont let me upload them from mobile, I'll have to do it when back at the desktop. The HAVE to do list is getting awfully short, and the WANT to do list is growing by the day. Getting pumped.
 

Zeitgeist

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'04 Variant and Vanagon mTDI
That's good to know about the T5 pans fitting the later engines. I had been planning to just import a complete 2.5 drivetrain, but now that I have a running/driving BHW, it probably makes more sense to just use that as the powerplant. My concern is that I don't want to lose any power when the VR6 is removed. I just got back from camping East of the Cascades, and pulling Snoqualmie Pass fully loaded at 70mph is my minimum standard for whatever engine goes back in there. The VR6 with 01P combo needs lots of downshifts and 5 to 6k rpms to maintain speed at grade, which I find annoying. Our Passat has never really run well in the year or so we've owned it, so I can't tell if it will be suitable as a replacement. It has lots of torque, but not really neck snapping stuff. The Malone Stage 2 power figures seem appropriate, but I also don't want to have to back off the throttle if EGTs are too high under heavy load.

Really looking forward to more updates on both your projects.
 

iwannajettatdi

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2015 Brilliant Black Audi Q5 3.0TDI, 2014 Tempest Blue metallic Jetta Sportwagen TDI, 2002 Blue Eurovan Weekender BHW TDI
Just got a Tunezilla box yesterday in the mail, should be able to get things sorted out through the upload and email files with Malone, that's nice. I need to run VCDS still. The speedometer still isn't registering, I'm thinking I don't have it hooked up right. So an email to Hasenwerk is on the todo list. I took it out for a brief test drive (!!!!), and it was awesome. The pendulum mount is too soft though, and I either need to get a new one, or fill the one I have with polyurethane and see if that helps. There was enough movement that the cup on the transfer box/angle drive rubbed into the steering rack a little. Whoops.

And some photos, as promised. Happy to put more up if there are any specific questions.

The GTI seats I found and am hoping to get fitted. They are a touch wide, I may just pull the plastic off the side and make some covers for them. They also sit up too high. So I haven't decided if I want to cut my seat bases down an inch or two, or fiddle with the seat rails themselves. TBD. Thoughts welcomed.



A side shot of the upper control arm, tie rod spacer, the Tundra coilover and the shock mount.



Some sound deadening in the cab and front wheel wells. I managed to get the B pillar trim off on the passenger side and coat that all the way up too, but I still need to do the driver's side. And the door skins would probably be nice as well.



And one with the GTI seat and the Eurovan seat base, plus the Euro rubber floor I found on eBay. I forgot to put the ventilation ducts in and had to promptly remove a whole bunch of dash parts and lift the dash back up to get them in place. Oy vey.



Of note, the GTI seats raise and lower the bases with the lever on the side of the seat. When they are all the way down, the bottom of the bucket hits the battery on the driver's side, and they are tilted back quite a bit. When they are raised all the way up, like in the picture, the angle is much, much better, however, then they are too tall, and my thighs are almost touching the steering wheel. I was trying to keep things as stock as possible, but should I cut my losses and just cut the seat bases down? Also, the MK5 seats are too wide to sit centered, the plastic on the side of the seat hits the Eurovan pocket on the door. So I can find door cards without that, or lose the side plastic and need to make new covers. I would love to figure out a way to narrow the MK5 rails since they are roughly 80mm wider and needed some 1/4" plate to get them to even bolt to the Eurovan seat bases.

The GTI seats are way nicer than the worn out EV seats that I have. And there is a UK parts place where I got the T5 gearbox and T6 rear diff (Kernow Transporters) that sells T5 and T6 arm rest kits that I can bolt in on the side in place of the airbags in the seat, which would be nice. We want to get the seat bottoms redone in leather anyways, so there is less of the dog hair that gets stuck in them. I have found some GTI plaid with a blue line instead of the red, and I think that would look quite nice with the blue van and some dark grey/light grey leather seats. Moving on...

First trip out of the garage in 1.5 years +. Hot dang, that was a good feeling.



And a side shot.



Now. The front is still a touch higher than the back, but it's almost perfectly level, for now. I think that when I manage to get the rear diff fitted, i'll probably lower the rear control arms a touch as well, just to match the front a little better, and keep the stock look. I can't decide if I just want to get some helper springs from Mad Suspension in the UK (Link Here), or find some taller springs from an SUV at the parts yard that I can fit in. Again, TBD.

One of my main problems now, besides the limp mode and pendulum mount, is the tire poke and what to do about it. I still need to put on the rear spacers to match the fronts. And when I get the rear diff mounted up, I think I will need to widen things a bit anyways, which may negate the spacer, and allow stock axle lengths.



It's utterly ridiculous, and I love it.

After discussing with many of my friends and co-conspirators in poor decision making, I think I've settled on a set of side bars, coming from the front bumper. Likely from a set of hoops that protect the grill and lights, like this. Picture below. +/- some sheet metal extensions grafted on to them.



I've looked at the fenders over and over for the past few weeks/months, and the thought of welding to the thin sheet metal is less than appealing. Especially with all the crazy undercoating on it that is HIGHLY flammable. Trust me, I know. There was an incident. Minimal casualties. I'll need to add on to the back as well, anyways, and I want to build a rear plate bumper to replace what's on there now. I will be able to tie some bars into the bumper even without the side steps. And I will need to make a spacer for the slider like the lowered guys in the UK do for their 9 and 10j wheels, which is basically what I'm getting up to with my +30mm spacers and ET24 wheels.

There is plenty more where that came from, I'm kind of just spewing consciousness at this point, so I'll call it for now.

Questions?
 
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Zeitgeist

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'04 Variant and Vanagon mTDI
Wowzers, I need to go back and read up on what you have going on with that front suspension.
 

iwannajettatdi

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Wowzers, I need to go back and read up on what you have going on with that front suspension.
Short answer? The 0a5 gearbox is wider than the 02d, and I wanted to keep the stock axle lengths. So I widened the subframe, and moved the control arms forward, and down, so that the geometry was as close to stock as I could make it. Which meant the torsion bars didnt bolt up, and required coilovers to support the suspension. And then the clearancing the new upper control arm was to keep the steering rack in the stock location, and the spacer at the end of the tie rods is my effort to keep the steering geometry as close to stock as possible. I spent months last year going through different permutations, and this was my best effort. At least, the one with the fewest compromises based on my skills and tools at home that are available to me. I've had mixed and less than great results trying to get local machine shops to help me out, they either just say no, or say they can help and it's a small enough job that it takes the back burner for months, and never gets done. So I ended up buying more tools and learning how to do it myself. Which is a win/win for me in the long run.

I have a newer electrohydraulic rack from an mk5/6 jetta that I had wanted to use, amd had it mounted in a clearanced stock subframe, but it was going to be too much work with the steering linkage since it's on the passenger side in the van, and the drivers side in the cars. Now I'm wondering if I couldn't have just gotten a rack from the UK that would have been reversed. Hmm. The steering rack being in the way of the rear transfer case angle drive is what drove most of this. The 0a5 would have been close to stock positioning with the subframe, but the steering rack would not have fit, and it still needed to be widened for the axles, so this was my best option as far as I could see it. I've tried to over engineer and size up bolts with my calcs and my designs where possible. I still ended up clearancing the stock subframe a little in the middle to allow the angle drive to sit where it needed, and then added some 2x2" 0.125" wall square tube plus gussets underneath and between the lowered lower control arm mounts to shore it up as much as possible. It's definitely heavier, and I hope stronger, than it was. Plus now I have some solid mounting points for skid plates and the pendulum mount. And adjusting the front ride stiffness can be had from stiffer or weaker springs that are fairly readily available from offroad shock suppliers here. So, still a little work to be done.
 

Zeitgeist

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'04 Variant and Vanagon mTDI
Dude, that's a LOT of work. I'm intrigued with the idea of lowering the subframe and running coilovers, but with just a regular T4 Syncro drivetrain. Are those upper spring perches from a Tundra as well? Did you have to massage the body in order to fit them?

I see that you're in Salem. There's a guy to the East of you in Sweet Home who has a small fleet of T4s, including Single/Double cabs, Syncros and a TDI Weekender. I very nearly met him when my wife melted the serp tensioner pulley on her '01 Weekender near there and I had to drive down and fix it. We missed each other by THAT much.
 
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iwannajettatdi

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2015 Brilliant Black Audi Q5 3.0TDI, 2014 Tempest Blue metallic Jetta Sportwagen TDI, 2002 Blue Eurovan Weekender BHW TDI
Dude, that's a LOT of work. I'm intrigued with the idea of lowering the subframe and running coilovers, but with just a regular T4 Syncro drivetrain. Are those upper spring perches from a Tundra as well? Did you have to massage the body in order to fit them?

I see that you're in Salem. There's a guy to the East of you in Sweet Home who has a small fleet of T4s, including Single/Double cabs, Syncros and a TDI Weekender. I very nearly met him when my wife melted the serp tensioner pulley on her '01 Weekender near there and I had to drive down and fix it. We missed each other by THAT much.
Yeah, he's a nice guy. When I was offloading some Eurovan parts, I think he bought a set of wheels from me. He picked them up in an early T4 Doka with his kids. Slick ride. I'm waiting to import a T5 Doka in another 8 years or so. Stupid laws.

If you're ever down this way, let's talk vans! Or stop by and we can participate in some poor decision making related to van stuff and syncros.

Simply lowering the subframe wasnt as bad as I though. Yeah, the upper coil buckets are from the same model year tundra, cut, welded, and braced in place on the thick part if the EV frame rails there. I still have a mind to make some new lower control arms that would allow me to bring the lower shock mount more outboard and use a softer spring rate. I made a 2" subframe lift/spacer, steering rack spacers, and a spacer for the shocks, but it just never worked quite right for what I was doing. Might fit better with 02d stuff that the T4 is designed for vs the T5 running gear. I've probably got pictures or stuff laying around still. We can dream up something silly. Oh, there was a guy I found on the UK T4 forums and instagram that did a subframe and rear lift for his syncro. Looked rad. But I can never find it when I'm looking for it, and I'm not sure what all he did to it. I think he had a friend at a shop do the work, so not much is published about it. Not sure what happened to it either.
 

iwannajettatdi

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2015 Brilliant Black Audi Q5 3.0TDI, 2014 Tempest Blue metallic Jetta Sportwagen TDI, 2002 Blue Eurovan Weekender BHW TDI
It's been around the neighborhood a few times now, but it's got ZERO power. And I the pendulum mount still needs some tweaking. I filled the voids with poly, but there is still a little too much movement and the transfer case output is rubbing on the steering rack.

I've got a few codes related to the N75, the EGR flap and the anti shudder valve that won't clear. I've got a fuse that continues to blow whenever I turn on the ignition. There is a 10a and 15a fuse by the relay 219 as seen below. I've got the relay and the fuses swapped from the BHW plastic piece to a box from an MK5/6 jetta/golf from the parts yard, so it doesn't look quite like the BHW layout normally does.



The 15a fuse blows, no matter what I do, and there is a constant 0.54 volts that is sitting on that side when the key is off. It goes up to battery voltage with key on, then when the key turns off, it slowly drops down to 0.54 and stays. I've tracked things around on the different plugs on that circuit:





You can see the line leaves the fuse s116, goes down to the F25 + connection, and goes off to the sensors/plugs that I'm having trouble with. They all have a short to ground type code that pops on the VAGCOM when I scan.

19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap V157 - no signal - intermittent - P3102
19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap V157 - open or short to ground - P3101
16629 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) - P0245 - short to ground
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) - P0102 - Signal too low

These are all with the ignition on, engine off. I get the same codes with the engine running. It starts up like a champ with no struggling.

These sensors are all pulling + from the same F25 + connection that runs from the fuse in the first diagram to the second page. Testing the plugs, I get the expected open loop and ground resistance on the +/- of the N75 and V157 plugs, but on the V79 both pins are shorted to ground. If I'm understanding the electrics (and my multimeter) correctly, I've got a ground loop in the V79 wiring that is causing it to pull the F25 plus connection to ground and causing my issue. I think. And I should start by tracing the wiring to check for breaks and where the + side is grounding out.

I'm happy to hear other thoughts or suggestions for my wiring plight. Or if someone wants to come and just rewire the van for me, I'd take it ha. It ran perfectly fine without these codes before the current disassemble and rebuild, and I'm guessing I've cause a broken wire or bad connection somewhere. Finding it is the fun part.

-Ryan
 

Zeitgeist

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'04 Variant and Vanagon mTDI
I've removed both the EGR and ASV on my BHW and those codes are recurring. I've been led to believe that those need to be removed by a tuner...or at least someone with more 'puter lernin' than me.
 

iwannajettatdi

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2015 Brilliant Black Audi Q5 3.0TDI, 2014 Tempest Blue metallic Jetta Sportwagen TDI, 2002 Blue Eurovan Weekender BHW TDI
Ok, time for some updates. This is going to be a long post since it's been awhile.

I've been chasing a nasty little short issue for the past 6 weeks that has been driving me bananas. It was effectively putting me in limp mode, knocking out the MAF, N75 (no turbo :cry:), and the intake flap around the EGR system. A TDI is a definite dog with low fueling and no turbo. Yikes. I could barely make it up my driveway to get back in the garage.

Oh!

I took it for a test drive! It was glorious. Except for no power and my pendulum mount was way too soft and the 4mo output rubbed a semicircle groove in the PS rack. But we won't talk about that....

I attempted to stiffen the mount up with some polyurethane, and while it helped quite a bit, it was still causing some mild grinding on the PS rack. So back to the drawing board for that before a real road test. I have some ideas in the works, it might be a bodge-fix to get me moving and then fix it once I'm on the road again.

I have the winch all wired up and the controller mounted inside the engine bay. Not as simple/stealth as I wanted, but it'll do for now. I'm hoping to get a power cut out switch for safety in case of a crash and to help prevent fires, but that's for another day/discussion.

Which leads me to the short issue. I spent two weeks on my days off pouring over the wiring diagrams to try and figure out what was going on or where I accidentally spliced something in wrong. I took out most/all of the extras that I had put in, and still couldn't figure it out. I finally decided to pull the dash back out, which meant the airbags and steering wheel had to come back out (what an absolute pain in the butt!), and everything in the middle of the dash had to be unhooked, etc. I tested every wiring connection I could think of, checked each fuse in the fuse panel at least twice to make sure there wasn't a partial tripped fuse or one that was blown but didn't black out the fuse itself, and I couldn't find anything.

A few days ago I happened to be looking at the ECU wiring and decided to pull the covers off of the ECU plugs as well, which lead me to this discovery.



It turns out, the clutch switch for the manual gearbox cars goes in T94/43, where the ro/gn wire is (yellow arrow), just to the left of the ro/gr wire. When I was rerouting the wiring for the clutch switch, I managed to put it right next to the ro/gr wire.... but on the other side. In T94/45 (red arrow). ::insert screaming emoji bashing their head on a tool box repeatedly...:: I must have counted wrong, or mistook the tiny '3' on the wiring diagram for a '5', and that was that. After cursing and calling myself a dolt quite a few times, I swapped the ro/gn wire back to the 43 spot, plugged the ECU in, plugged the airbags up to prevent weird codes, and.... It fixed the problem. I felt like a genius and an idiot at the same time.

I briefly messed around with trying to splice the Passat ABS controller into the van's system just to make all the ECU gremlins happy. I ran a CAN-BUS wire over to the ABS controller, but once I had coded it properly to the car's settings it ended up changing the soft coding in VCDS and I couldn't change it back. This caused quite a few fault codes since there weren't any side impact airbags or seat belt tensioners in the T4s, and wasn't worth the issue or the airbag light, so back in the T4 ABS controller went. There's a weird airbag B+ fault code now that I didn't have before, but no CEL or dash light related to it, so I'll figure that one out later as well.

I also tried to start it and see if any of the fault codes left would clear with the engine running, but it was midnight, and after a few longer cranks and only a few almost starts I gave up. It sounds/feels like there is either air in the fuel line, or I've somehow gotten it vacuum locked by it sitting for the last 4-6 weeks without starting. It started like a champ with what felt like a 0.5 second crank prior to the wiring fiasco and opening it back up, so I think it's a fueling problem. I'll have to tackle it in the light of day to keep the neighbors happy.


Short term things to do:
  • 1. Finish tidying up wiring under the dash and in the engine bay around the ECU and battery. Does this stage ever actually end in a swap?
  • 2. Replace dash.
  • 2a. Get van restarted.
  • 3. Fix/stiffen up the pendulum mount.
  • 4. Mount EGR and Boost gauges. I have a steering column top mount for an MK4 jetta/golf, but it's the wrong shape for the T4, so I'm either going to have to cut it up, or go full custom. In progress.
  • 5. Fender flares to cover the widened subframe. Still haven't decided on a style, but I think the Aussie style brush bars coming from the ARB bumper light hoop and tied into the side bars/steps is the look I'm going for. Then I can splice something in to cover the tires/spray. I'll probably start with the bars and a rubber truck mudflap cut down to size, and then make adjustments from there once I'm moving and come up with a better idea looks wise.
  • 6. Wedge spacer for the rear slider to clear the widened rear track.


Medium term to do:
  • 1. Front seats. I still want to use the GTI seats, I just like the feel and the plaid. The problem is the width of the MK5 seats vs the T4 seats, and at least on the driver side, it was hitting/rubbing on the door pocket. Still mulling on this one. I like the lower thigh bolsters of the T4 seats, makes getting in/out easier since it's not a drop-down-in and stand-up-out-of type style like the cars, so maybe there is a way to splice the bases/backs together, or shave down the thigh bolsters on the MK5 GTI seats so they aren't as high/intrusive. I also really like the fold forward and slide option of the MK5 seats since they are from a 2 door. It will make rotating the seats on the swivels a little easier I believe.
  • 2. Side bars/steps. I'd like them to be functional as steps and mild/moderate rocker guards for off road/fire road travel. Absolutely no rock crawling style off road travel is planned, I understand this is not the vehicle for that. But there is quite a bit of off road adventuring available to us here in the NW, and it'd be nice to have some insurance while searching for it. So figuring out a way to support them in the middle as well as the ends will be necessary. I'm open to thoughts/suggestions.
  • 3. Shop alignment for toe in/out, and any camber adjustment they might recommend. I've got it close for the toe with my trammel bar set up, at least the the hundredths of an inch, but I don't have a laser, so it might be nice to get it on a machine with someone that actually know what they are doing. The camber is maxed out, and the caster is as positive as I can make it, so I think it's where it needs to be for a big, lumbering van/vehicle. The caster was maxed out on the prior/stock suspension set up too, so no real change there. From what I understand, slight positive camber (top of the wheels at 0* or slightly further out from center compared to bottom) with heavier vehicles actually helps in steering and control at speed. Please, school me as needed, but probably enough banter for a whole thread of it's own.
  • 4. Replace rear bench seat with a sliding bed set up that runs along the length of the van. I think it will work out better for the wife and I with out dogs and what we have planned for use. I may keep the jump seats in place just in case we need extra seating, but otherwise, having that length along the sliding door side of the van frees up more space for us and our plans. This also give us freedom for a pullout style kitchen in the back and storage options for drawers underneath. I think we have decided to remove the upper bed platform as well to give us more head room and space when parked/camping. Still in the air for this, but the dogs will appreciate us closer at night, for sure.
  • 5. Webasto or other diesel style heater.
  • 6. Rear tailgate rack for bike rack and spare tire. I like the Terranger style as seen HERE or HERE but I'll have to get my fabrication hat on for those. I like the idea of lifting it out of the way vs. having to open a swing out every time I want/need to get in the back. The tailgate will definitely need uprated lift struts, and probably some beefed up attachment points. Another TBD.
  • 7. Rear diff and prop shaft install. I think this is going to need a shortened prop shaft, but I haven't had much time to devote to it since I'm still getting everything squared away for simply running/driving.

Medium-long to long term to do:
  • 1. Plan an extended road trip around the US/Canada for October! I get access to a sabbatical month yearly through a lottery type system with our group and the wifey gets one this year as well, so we are hoping to road trip around for 4-6 weeks. Our family lives in the Midwest and Southeast US, so it will be nice to visit with them for extended times as well without having to fly to see them.
  • 2. Wire/prep for a fridge/freezer combo that will fit under the new bed system.
  • 3. Some sort of wrap around protection for the tailgate for cooking and to give us some extra space when the weather is a little wet. I'm thinking of using some of the awning railing I have extra along the sides of the tailgate and a kador (keder?) type fitting to slide in on each side with either screen or waxed canvas type sail sheet material for some water resistance. I've already got an awning rail and setup from Stitches and Steel that I really like the looks of, so I'm hoping to do something of that nature.
  • 4. Seat and door card custom upholstery.


Trips planned:
Multiple around town jaunts, as many as possible, to iron out bugs and issues.
July - NW Overland Expo - probably the first big camping trip with the van. Lots of bugs to still work out.
August and September - local camping trips to continue refining the insides and set up.
October - road trip as above
This winter - weekly snowboard trips, possibly some overnight camping. TBD.
 

iwannajettatdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2003
Location
Salem, OR
TDI
2015 Brilliant Black Audi Q5 3.0TDI, 2014 Tempest Blue metallic Jetta Sportwagen TDI, 2002 Blue Eurovan Weekender BHW TDI
1st test drive was successful! I spent about an hour tooling around town at speeds of 30 to 70 miles an hour on some of the highways. Everything held together, no boost leaks, no coolant leaks, and nothing caught on fire.

Here is a short video clip.
Test drive

I still need to calibrate the steering angle sensor. The dash needs to go back in. I forgot to plug in the maf for that test drive, so it will be even better once that's reading correctly. And I've got a weird short right now in the dash lights where where the headlight switch will turn on, but I get no dash lights. My headlights are also affected right now. The sidelights come on, but no main or high beam. All the gages on just on the dash work save for this speedometer, I still need to figure out why my speed sensor isn't reading and sending the right signal to the dash.
 

iwannajettatdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2003
Location
Salem, OR
TDI
2015 Brilliant Black Audi Q5 3.0TDI, 2014 Tempest Blue metallic Jetta Sportwagen TDI, 2002 Blue Eurovan Weekender BHW TDI
Well, I figured the headlights out at least. I used some relay blocks and pins from an mk5/6 car since they have some nicely packaged options in the engine bay for three relays and 5 fuses. This gets me high and low beam relays, and a fused power to each light for both the main and dipped beam. The power pins on the newer cars must have relays with fatter spades, because my older relays were only making intermittent contact with them since they are wider/thicker. Cripes. I rewired that, which was annoying, but now all the running and head lights are functional.

There is still a weird short in the instrument and center dash lights that I dont understand. The lights all work when supplied 12v, but then the dimmer wont work. And it's only grounding out when the. Lue plug is inserted into the cluster. All of the other fusebox plugs that involve the grey/blue plus connection in the wiring diagrams are fine and not grounded out when the blue cluster plug is unhooked. I checked with all of them unplugged and after plugging them in one by one. I've tried three different light switches, and two different clusters with similar results. I'm getting no measured output from the dimmer switch. if anyone can shine some light on the problem, I'm all ears.

- troubleshoot speedometer. still not getting a signal through the fastforward.ca tachotronic box and the hall effect sender he sent me. Odd.

Short term to-do list:
- mount boost and egt gauges. I made a quick mounting plate in the dash instead of a shallow unused drawer/cubby thing.
- install dash
- stiffen pendulum to body mount. I'm still getting enough play that it's rubbing on the steering rack on hard acceleration. If my next idea doesn't work, I'm going to just rigid mount it for now and deal with it later.
- front speakers and stereo
- spool winch line
- mount driving lights in the bumper
- figure out what I'm going to do for the fender flare/wheel arch issue with all the extra width I've got. I still need some slightly wider wheels to clear the coilovers a little better. Still playing around with this.
- install rear spacers
- sliding door wedge spacer to clear the wider rear wheels/tires.
- fuel gauge isnt reading right. Hopefully this is related to the speedo, but I dont know yet.
- skid plate from the bumper back to the subframe. I'm not rock crawling, so I dont need 3/16" steel, and I'm not 3-4" from the pavement like my MK4, do I dont need massive plates. I'm thinking 2-3mm aluminum over a square tube frame. Mostly to keep debris and spray off the motor and gearbox. It will also help with the sound a little.

Medium to-do:
- pull rear bench and build a different style sliding bed that will work for us better
- rear diff and driveline. Wire rear diff and vacuum system for locker.
- tailgate tire carrier rack for spare and bike.
- webasto diesel heater
 
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