BHW manual swap to keep or delete BSM

[QR12]

Currently manual swapping my 04 Passat wagon. I was originally going to delete the BSM but today I found that I have a gear driven BSM instead of a chain driven. I was hoping to get some input from other members that have manual swapped.

 

[50harleyrider]

Your fortunate. Don't do anything. The geared BSM is the ultimate fix. I have heard they can fail Via the oil pump drive but mines been going great for years and if you have miles on it, keep it and enjoy the smoothness.

 

[QR12]

According to the receipts from the previous owner mine should have around 100k on the geared BSM.

 

[zzdiesel]

Should you have the oil pan off you could check the hex shaft. It could also be turned end for end and have new driving surfaces.

 

[Windex]

There are two versions of the gear driven updated BSM. 70 mm shaft and 100mm (or thereabouts). There have been documented instances of failed shafts on the smaller version which have (very smoothly) blown engines due to oil starvation. Confirm the length of the oil drive shaft. If it's the shorter version, delete. Longer, keep.

 

[50harleyrider]

I don't have a clue which one mine has but I sure wouldn't pull the pan to verify and then spend as much as the car is worth to delete it. these cars are just too old now to ask for problems

 

[auntulna]

Agreed 5HR, but what should the thoughtful Passat owner spend money on? The stereo? A seat cushion? (Only need one)? Flush the heater core, or wait till spring comes again? Maybe one new headlight? Replace the front tires? These are the questions the 200K plus owners face....

 

[yahmon]

Currently manual swapping my 04 Passat wagon. I was originally going to delete the BSM but today I found that I have a gear driven BSM instead of a chain driven. I was hoping to get some input from other members that have manual swapped.

Keep for sure, got the same setup with FRF 6 speed and no vibrations anywhere.

 

[PickleRick]

Or pull geared balance shaft assembly, sell and then take all the money you make off of it to fund your delete/timing belt and 5 speed conversion!


Replace the rear water hose T under the tandem pump, the rear temp sensor, new tandem pump gasket(tandem pump if you can swing it) and the thermostat while you have it out. I had to replace all those within a year of my conversion, would have been so much easier to do all that with the motor out.

 

[yahmon]

Or pull geared balance shaft assembly, sell and then take all the money you make off of it to fund your delete/timing belt and 5 speed conversion!


Replace the rear water hose T under the tandem pump, the rear temp sensor, new tandem pump gasket(tandem pump if you can swing it) and the thermostat while you have it out. I had to replace all those within a year of my conversion, would have been so much easier to do all that with the motor out.

Why you pull the motor out?

 

[PickleRick]

You can swap out the trans for the 5 speed conversion while the motor is installed but you have to loosen the subframe requiring an alignment of said subframe after reinstall.

You can also do the delete in the vehicle. I wouldn't recommend doing either job in the car without a lift.

It much easier to remove the engine and trans together, do the delete on a rotating engine stand. I don't like working on my back laying on the ground. Put the new trans back in attached to the engine. Feed the clutch line BEFORE putting the engine and trans back in. Or use the stainless braided line, then it doesn't matter what step its installed.

 

[yahmon]

You can swap out the trans for the 5 speed conversion while the motor is installed but you have to loosen the subframe requiring an alignment of said subframe after reinstall.

You can also do the delete in the vehicle. I wouldn't recommend doing either job in the car without a lift.

It much easier to remove the engine and trans together, do the delete on a rotating engine stand. I don't like working on my back laying on the ground. Put the new trans back in attached to the engine. Feed the clutch line BEFORE putting the engine and trans back in. Or use the stainless braided line, then it doesn't matter what step its installed.

I suppose if you doing the delete and don't have hoist it maybe it easier. The subframe I simply put back in place aligning the bolt head prints and worked like a charm, no alignment needed.