Bhw issues after cam replacement

[Nathan_og]

Check where your torsion value is at? Sometimes that will happen when it's too far retarded. Also can be if the vanes are too much closed.

Torsion value is at -1

 

[Mozambiquer]

Torsion value is at -1

Thats not too bad. Try bumping it further positive to see what it does.

 

[Nathan_og]

Thats not too bad. Try bumping it further positive to see what it does.

it was at 0.5 before and still the same, i just drove the car for a good 30 mins and i would say once its fully warmed up its about 80 or 90 percent what a bhw should be but seems to be much slower past 100 and still does not get there in any hurry. the screen where the speedometer is shows im burning about 20l per 100km. this was all done in city no highway.

 

[Mozambiquer]

it was at 0.5 before and still the same, i just drove the car for a good 30 mins and i would say once its fully warmed up its about 80 or 90 percent what a bhw should be but seems to be much slower past 100 and still does not get there in any hurry. the screen where the speedometer is shows im burning about 20l per 100km. this was all done in city no highway.

Check for overboosting.

 

[Nathan_og]

Check for overboosting.

it has not thrown any overboost codes for me but i do recall the shop saying they got a overboost code when they got on it really hard.

im gonna run some diesel purge through it this weekend and double check the boost pipes again. Torsion values are looking really good when checked hot. cyl 1 and 4 where at 0.00 and cyl 2 and 3 where around +- 0.20

 

[MEgearhead]

Torsion value is a single number group 4 last field. Sounds like you are looking at injection quality deviation group 13.

 

[Nathan_og]

Update:

I checked torsion value in group 4 and it’s -1.0kw.

When I was driving today the car went into limp mode with no check engine light. I scanned it and it has a code po299 boost pressure control range not reached. It’s never thrown this code before. I’m hoping it’s something as simple as a missed hose somewhere or something.

 

[PickleRick]

Do you have any dawn dish soap? Mix a little in a squirt bottle. You'd be amazed at how much of a boost leak you can have on one of these before it flashes a cel. The power greatly suffers. I've blown the hose completely off and still not registered a cel

 

[MEgearhead]

Do you have any dawn dish soap? Mix a little in a squirt bottle. You'd be amazed at how much of a boost leak you can have on one of these before it flashes a cel. The power greatly suffers. I've blown the hose completely off and still not registered a cel

+1

If I were you, I'd start fresh and go back through everything methodically.

Check all boost hoses thoroughly. This forum is full of boost leaks that were not found initially. Make sure all the spring clip connections are fully seated. Also visually inspect every square mm of the hoses. If that all checks out, PickleRick's soapy water test does work, especially for o-rings leaking, or small cracks in the intercooler.

Verify you have 20+ in. of vacuum while idling with a vacuum gauge tee'd into the small line at the firewall connector.

Run the turbo actuator test (Basic Settings group 11). Verify the actuator moves smoothly from fully extended to up against the stop screw. Also note the difference in mbar between high and low duty cycle.

Do some group 11 logs and post them.

Once you verify all that we can move on to other things.

 

[mnb]

I am currently chasing almost the same issue on my brm. New cam, Good vacuum, no leaks, new turbo, egr delete, tuned. Getting P0299. feeling your pain.

 

[Nathan_og]

I am currently chasing almost the same issue on my brm. New cam, Good vacuum, no leaks, new turbo, egr delete, tuned. Getting P0299. feeling your pain.

Did it start right after the cam job?

I’m gonna run through the whole checklist and vacuum test again when I got time this week then I’m thinking of changing the vacuum hose to the brake booster. I am starting to suspect the wrong cam was installed as everything is checking out.

 

[mnb]

Did it start right after the cam job?

I’m gonna run through the whole checklist and vacuum test again when I got time this week then I’m thinking of changing the vacuum hose to the brake booster. I am starting to suspect the wrong cam was installed as everything is checking out.

Yes it started after the cam instal. However I did a new pd140 turbo and deleted the egr, Malone stg4 tune. So I've got some extra variables. N75 is new. Old N75 was good, mis diag on my part.. vacuum is about 30inch. Turbo actuator operates as it should, no leak down. Vacuum resivor in valve cover also test good. I picked up a smoke pro by redline last night. Verified vacuum is all good. No boost leaks throughout the system. I did discover tonight that the crank seal is bad. I do have blow by and smoke that did not change with the new cam. My torsion value is off. Found the factory value tonight. I'm at -4.9 idle and -5.4 accelerating. Timing cover says -0.5. So I need to make some adjustments there. However I'm now thinking rings. I'll be doing a compression test next.

 

[Nathan_og]

Alright I logged group 011-001-003, I clicked turbo , log, renamed file and start. I then click stop and done but I can’t find my file anywhere or in my downloads and I Remeber having the same issue last time but forgot what I did to find it.

 

[MEgearhead]

It should be in the logs folder wherever VCDS was installed. If you have logged the same groups previously, it will append the new log to the end of the previous file.

 

[burpod]

c:\ross-tech\vcds\logs

 

[Nathan_og]

Ok I ran through some stuff here.

I checked system vacuum using the line coming off the firewall before the check valve. On start vacuum went from around 27 in hg and then rose and stayed at about 29.5 in hg.

I did a n75 test and the actuator moves freely up and down, I also noted a change in exhaust tone when it would move.

I inspected all boost piping and also sprayed it down with dish soap and did not find anything.

I spoke with a a former vw tech I know who is a licensed diesel tech, he said believes they installed a brm cam and possible the valves or opening to much or at the wrong time.

The vw specialist shop suspects the same thing as everything checks out.

I’m going to get a second opinion at another vw specialist recommended on this forum and go from there. At this point I do not know what else could cause this.

 

[PickleRick]

I'm not convinced it's the cam as Matt @ Whitbread has installed one in a BHW many years ago. customer put 100k on it with no reported issues. Installed as an emergency availability option but kept because there was no butt dyno loss in performance.

 

[Nathan_og]

I'm not convinced it's the cam as Matt @ Whitbread has installed one in a BHW many years ago. customer put 100k on it with no reported issues. Installed as an emergency availability option but kept because there was no butt dyno loss in performance.

Was that a bew or brm cam?

I’m wondering if it’s a vacuum issue that maybe doesn’t present itself at idle?

 

[PickleRick]

BRM, BEW is a very common cam replacement

 

[Nathan_og]

One thing I noticed is at idle the maf specified was 800 and actual was going between 480-490 and when revved at around 1k rpm specified was 760 and actual was 550, not sure if that’s normal or not?

 

[Mozambiquer]

One thing I noticed is at idle the maf specified was 800 and actual was going between 480-490 and when revved at around 1k rpm specified was 760 and actual was 550, not sure if that’s normal or not?

Is the egr still intact? Check for it being stuck open if so.

 

[Nathan_og]

Is the egr still intact? Check for it being stuck open if so.

Yes it’s still intact. The shop has blocked it off and noticed no difference , they removed the plates and cleaned it. I know there is a code for the intact flap which has always been there since I got the car.

 

[Nathan_og]

Update:

Alright well I ordered a new intake flap as this one kept setting a code and sounded as if it was getting stuck then popping open, I wanted to rule it out. I currently just installed it and while doing so I removed the vacuum line coming off the brake booster to throughly inspect it, I found a big cut in it where the clamp is.

I cut that piece out and am using a piece of garden use as a temp fix , I’ll see soon how it works out

 

[Nathan_og]

Well new intake flap and diy brake hose repair and still the same 5 second or so lag from a stop as well as slightly less power and the car also burns around 17l/100km right now.

I’m gonna order a new hose incase my diy repair isn’t holding tight although I believe it is

 

[mnb]

I'd commented above and was having similar issues. Brm, new cam, new turbo etc. Was registering some boost but not making enough. Found my issue, for me there was a inline vacuum check valve just before the turbo actuator. It was backwards. Then I took it for a rip and pretty sure it blew the headgasket. Long shot but maybe you also have a check valve issue.

 

[Nathan_og]

The check valve is good and new. The car went into limp mode twice on me on the highway going up a slight incline. It pretty much does it all the time only on the highway from what I noticed even when I’m not giving it much gas.

Only two codes are p0299 underboost and now probably cause of the warmer weather a p0128 coolant temp low.

New intake flap made no difference and patched up brake booster line didn’t change anything at all.

 

[Nathan_og]

The check valve is good and new. The car went into limp mode twice on me on the highway going up a slight incline. It pretty much does it all the time only on the highway from what I noticed even when I’m not giving it much gas.

Only two codes are p0299 underboost and now probably cause of the warmer weather a p0128 coolant temp low.

New intake flap made no difference and patched up brake booster line didn’t change anything at all.

Is it possible for the torsion value to be good but the the crank timing to be out slightly?

I know the shop did not put the car in service mode so the crank was not locked. I’m assuming they did the mark and pray method, I wonder if the timing is just very slightly off.

 

[Nathan_og]

Update:

Took the car to a tdi guru working mainly and these diesels. Vacuum system checks out and turbo seems to be matching requested well when graphing.

He did pressurize the boost system and found a slight amount of air was escaping out the exhaust and suspects a bent valve.

He recoded the transmission and also advanced the timing as it was too retarded, it does seem to make better power now but fuel economy is still poor.

He said what he can do instead of dumping money into the engine is he can adjust the actuator for less lag or I can tune the car and he can adjust it according to the tune.

I think based of the fact cyl 2 is lower then the rest and the fact no shop could find anything wrong that there most likely is internal damage. Cyl 2 iq was also kinda poor in his opinion compared to the rest. Cyl 2 was at around .60 while the rest were well below that.

 

[Nathan_og]

At hot idle the iq is

Cyl1 0.07
Cyl2. 0.75
Cyl3. 0.56
Cyl4. 0.20

I know these are in spec but do you think cylinder 2 is on the high side?

 

[CantWrite]

@Nathan_og even if it’s on the high side, if it’s within spec, what’s it matter?

And, thanks for keeping this updated as I am following your trials and tribulations. I hope you find the problem and hope for a good result.

Have you talked to the original shop at all or just washed your hands of it, chalking it up to learning?