it was at 0.5 before and still the same, i just drove the car for a good 30 mins and i would say once its fully warmed up its about 80 or 90 percent what a bhw should be but seems to be much slower past 100 and still does not get there in any hurry. the screen where the speedometer is shows im burning about 20l per 100km. this was all done in city no highway.Thats not too bad. Try bumping it further positive to see what it does.
Check for overboosting.it was at 0.5 before and still the same, i just drove the car for a good 30 mins and i would say once its fully warmed up its about 80 or 90 percent what a bhw should be but seems to be much slower past 100 and still does not get there in any hurry. the screen where the speedometer is shows im burning about 20l per 100km. this was all done in city no highway.
it has not thrown any overboost codes for me but i do recall the shop saying they got a overboost code when they got on it really hard.Check for overboosting.
+1Do you have any dawn dish soap? Mix a little in a squirt bottle. You'd be amazed at how much of a boost leak you can have on one of these before it flashes a cel. The power greatly suffers. I've blown the hose completely off and still not registered a cel
Did it start right after the cam job?I am currently chasing almost the same issue on my brm. New cam, Good vacuum, no leaks, new turbo, egr delete, tuned. Getting P0299. feeling your pain.
Yes it started after the cam instal. However I did a new pd140 turbo and deleted the egr, Malone stg4 tune. So I've got some extra variables. N75 is new. Old N75 was good, mis diag on my part.. vacuum is about 30inch. Turbo actuator operates as it should, no leak down. Vacuum resivor in valve cover also test good. I picked up a smoke pro by redline last night. Verified vacuum is all good. No boost leaks throughout the system. I did discover tonight that the crank seal is bad. I do have blow by and smoke that did not change with the new cam. My torsion value is off. Found the factory value tonight. I'm at -4.9 idle and -5.4 accelerating. Timing cover says -0.5. So I need to make some adjustments there. However I'm now thinking rings. I'll be doing a compression test next.Did it start right after the cam job?
I’m gonna run through the whole checklist and vacuum test again when I got time this week then I’m thinking of changing the vacuum hose to the brake booster. I am starting to suspect the wrong cam was installed as everything is checking out.
Was that a bew or brm cam?I'm not convinced it's the cam as Matt @ Whitbread has installed one in a BHW many years ago. customer put 100k on it with no reported issues. Installed as an emergency availability option but kept because there was no butt dyno loss in performance.
Yes it’s still intact. The shop has blocked it off and noticed no difference , they removed the plates and cleaned it. I know there is a code for the intact flap which has always been there since I got the car.Is the egr still intact? Check for it being stuck open if so.
Is it possible for the torsion value to be good but the the crank timing to be out slightly?The check valve is good and new. The car went into limp mode twice on me on the highway going up a slight incline. It pretty much does it all the time only on the highway from what I noticed even when I’m not giving it much gas.
Only two codes are p0299 underboost and now probably cause of the warmer weather a p0128 coolant temp low.
New intake flap made no difference and patched up brake booster line didn’t change anything at all.