BHW/01E 6 Speed Swap

[mattbuy]

Just want to post e follow up.... Took aroad trip from Dallas to Tennessee , averaging 80 mph. And the mpg there was 40 mpg. Trip back around 38mpg.
1.9 TDI 5 speed transmission code DHF AFN
Clutch FX racing stage 1 sold by grip force with dmf 1.8t flywheel
Custom tune with software for manual traansmission, TDI Guy tune for B5.5 manual conversion
Timing belt done @ 165k miles 2/15

 

[GoremanX]

Can someone tell me what this is:

Red cap directly above the left side axle output shaft on a European TDI 01E quattro transmission. The hole under that cap isn't threaded. It bugs me that it's only covered with a slip-in cap that doesn't appear to be held by anything except mild resistance.

edit: WTH?!? I just realized that's where the VSS goes! I had no idea I was supposed to provide my own VSS for this damn thing.

Will the VSS from an 01A work in there? (I'm using the same 3.889 final drive as the transmission I'm replacing)

 

[psst1997]

Can someone tell me what this is:

Red cap directly above the left side axle output shaft on a European TDI 01E quattro transmission. The hole under that cap isn't threaded. It bugs me that it's only covered with a slip-in cap that doesn't appear to be held by anything except mild resistance.

edit: WTH?!? I just realized that's where the VSS goes! I had no idea I was supposed to provide my own VSS for this damn thing.

Will the VSS from an 01A work in there? (I'm using the same 3.889 final drive as the transmission I'm replacing)

\

Make sure your transmission has a speed sensor ring installed as well! I had one from a car that didnt and had to install the ring and the pickup.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4797458&postcount=229

I can't comment if one from an O1A would work or not but a bit of google, i dont think it will. This is what you need:

 

[GoremanX]

\
Make sure your transmission has a speed sensor ring installed as well! I had one from a car that didnt and had to install the ring and the pickup.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4797458&postcount=229
I can't comment if one from an O1A would work or not but a bit of google, i dont think it will. This is what you need:

Yeah, looks like the part number is different between 01A and 01E. Damn, another part to buy unexpectedly. I'm being nickel-and-dimed to death.

Any way to confirm that the pickup ring is there without opening the diff case? I tried sticking a screwdriver in the hole and turning the axle flange, but I didn't feel anything.

edit: correction, the part number is the same between the Passat (all variants), A4 (all variants) and S4 (all variants), which implies 01E, 01A and Tiptronic. There isn't even any distinction between different final drive gearing, I guess because this measures an output flange after all the gearing.

 

[GoremanX]

Any way to confirm that the pickup ring is there without opening the diff case? I tried sticking a screwdriver in the hole and turning the axle flange, but I didn't feel anything.

I just took off the flange and the drive wheel was clearly visible, so I've confirmed it's there.

So... how tight does the flange bolt need to be tightened down? I can't find an accurate value anywhere. I've found everything from 55nm to 10nm+90 degrees. You'd think my service manual would tell me, but all it says is to "re-install the axle flange".

edit: I had a look at the spec for an equivalent auto trans output flange (same 130mm diameter), and it said 23nm, so that's what I used.

 

[imo000]

If all else fails, use the "good n' tight" rule next time. Last thing you need is t; use the wrong spec and snap the bolt.

 

[GoremanX]

If all else fails, use the "good n' tight" rule next time. Last thing you need is t; use the wrong spec and snap the bolt.

I don't mind doing that for static objects being bolted together. But I refuse to do that for bolts that hold rotating parts in place. That's a recipe for disaster. In fact, I'm surprised that bolt isn't reverse-threaded, like the spindle on a left bicycle pedal.

 

[imo000]

What rotating parts? Isn't this a magnetic pick up?

 

[GoremanX]

What rotating parts? Isn't this a magnetic pick up?

Nope, it's a bolt that holds the output axle flange to the transmission. I had to remove it to confirm that the speed sensor ring was actually inside.

 

[Uberhare]

So....3 years and 100K to report. I no longer commute so it's only seen 10K in the past 10 months! I'm still using the stock DMF, I had problems with slippage in the beginning but I had the boost turned down to 22psi. It took a few weeks of gentle driving to bed back in, but all is still good! I have the new DMF and Sachs racing clutch on the shelf still.

Now I'm debating a larger turbo or selling the car and moving on. I know of a Passat 1.8T AWD wagon for a good price.

 

[Windex]

I'm at about 80k on mine - not commuting as much myself - down to 30k a year from 60.

I you're looking to move the wagon, let me know if you want to part ways with the clutch - I love having spares.

 

[Uberhare]

I'd offer the clutch up first to whoever buys the car if I sell it, but I'll let you know.

 

[imo000]

Although mine is a 5-speed, I'm around 70K kms into the swap. I stopped commuting too (50K km/year for 13 years was enough to find a job 20km away). Only put maybe 20K km/year now. Not planning on selling the because I still only spend that as much as a gas engined car would (only fill up every 2 weeks).

 

[Windex]

Midsummer bump.

I now have 100k on this swap.

- The clutch chatter is completely gone, pedal effort is lighter, than when the clutch was new, but still heavier than stock.

- I still have the "spare" 01E transmission in the car, the FRF that Matt Whitbread setup the bearing clearance on is still sitting in the basement.

- I have lost two driveshafts (left, then right) due to torn inner boots. I went with smaller (108mm I think) flanges on my 01E to accommodate common (in N/A) 1.8t axles. I replaced the left side in a parking lot in Miami with a cheap Chinaxle in order to get home after vacation. It lasted roughly 4 months before the inner boot on it ripped and it too started to vibrate. I obtained some used axles and swapper the inner joints from left to right and vice versa. Cleaned, new grease, and rebooted. The car is now much smoother on acceleration. The old worn axle, and the chinaxle both had vibration on acceleration, the OEM swapped inners are smooth at all speeds.

- Generally all-around liking the car - very good to drive. I am BSM deleted, and the 2000 rpm vibrations are noticeable in cold temps (more so below freezing) but get better as the engine and the mounts warm up. I barely notice in the summer time when the ambient temps are 20degc / 70 degf or higher. If I lived anywhere south of Kentucky, I would not hesitate to just delete the BSM and be done with it.

 

[Uberhare]

Keeping thinking to upgrade to something newer, but I can't seem to find anything "better" to replace it with! Maybe I'll fix the rust and carry on.

I'm at 300K now, and the shocks could use an upgrade. Otherwise car drives great!

Thanks for the reminder, I have a torn outer boot to fix.

 

[vwztips]

I agree. My son just turned 15 and he is getting my 2004 with 5 speed and 335k. He wants to get it to 400k. I am "upgrading" to a 2003 Audi AllRoad cobalt blue, soon to have a BHW and 6MQ.

 

[GoremanX]

- I have lost two driveshafts (left, then right) due to torn inner boots. I went with smaller (108mm I think) flanges on my 01E to accommodate common (in N/A) 1.8t axles. I replaced the left side in a parking lot in Miami with a cheap Chinaxle in order to get home after vacation. It lasted roughly 4 months before the inner boot on it ripped and it too started to vibrate. I obtained some used axles and swapper the inner joints from left to right and vice versa. Cleaned, new grease, and rebooted. The car is now much smoother on acceleration. The old worn axle, and the chinaxle both had vibration on acceleration, the OEM swapped inners are smooth at all speeds.

I was under the impression that tripod axles were required on longitudinal TDIs to accommodate the side-to-side vibrations of the engine. Is that not the case? Because I'd MUCH rather be running 108mm flanges than 130mm ones. Those axles are a pain to acquire here in the US.

 

[vwztips]

No sir. Get the correct flange you want and you can run the standard CV's. In fact I have a set of 108 flanges from my 01E as I had to use 88's for my AllRoad. PM me if you are I interested in buying them

 

[Windex]

I was under the impression that tripod axles were required on longitudinal TDIs to accommodate the side-to-side vibrations of the engine. Is that not the case? Because I'd MUCH rather be running 108mm flanges than 130mm ones. Those axles are a pain to acquire here in the US.

The inners are tripot joints.

I call my car a 2003 audi a4 when I need to buy an axle.

driver's side is 8E0 407 271s

 

[Uberhare]

So after 3.5 years of trouble free driving my car decided to have an issue. Of course it waited until worst possible moment to break. I was on my way to catch a flight to Germany, so it was towed home.

One of the shift rods came apart. It's the fixed one that bolts to the top of the gearbox. It ripped apart the bushing, separated, fell down beside the box and jammed. It appears to be 6 speed specific. So unless I can find a B5 S4 for parts it looks like I'll be fabricating something. Anyone here have any 6 speed shifter parts laying about?

8D0711271P - Ebay pic for reference. It's the top rod.

 

[Windex]

Or a W8 01E - same shifter. I thought it would be a linkage issue.

Should be easy to fabricate a bushing eh? Did the top bolt survive?

I've got nothing lying around - did you try Chris in Kitchener?

 

[GoremanX]

It is in fact 01E specific, called the "locating rod". Part number can be 8D0711271N, 8D0711271P or 8D0711271Q depending on the year (I actually think all 3 are revisions of the same part, so they might all work, but I'm not sure). I ordered mine new from Jim Ellis Audi in Atlanta for about $135 using the 8D0711271P part number, and it fit perfect. But often sellers on eBay will list the whole shifter assembly, including the rods, for a cheap price. Also, pretty sure JH Motorsports has some used ones available for sale for relatively cheap. Gotta call for one, though. They're not listed on the site.

 

[Nash_TDI]

I upgraded the bushing in mine to the JMH one.

I actually upgraded everything on mine.

The S4 "Trio" Package

 

[GoremanX]

Yeah so did I. Vibrations in neutral at the shifter were noticeably increased, but beyond that it was a very pleasant upgrade.

 

[Nash_TDI]

Yeah so did I. Vibrations in neutral at the shifter were noticeably increased, but beyond that it was a very pleasant upgrade.

I went from auto to full JHM. So I know what you are talking about but not what stock feels like.

 

[Windex]

Mine has the stock 6spd linkage - It's way more precise (stock) than a MK4 ALH with the 2000 and up linkage. I can't imagine needing it any stiffer.

Then again, I lived with the MK3 linkage in my B4 Passat for a three years, a carrot in a food processor feels precise compared to that linkage.

 

[Uberhare]

The solid bushings is what I was thinking before I saw the link even! I was wondering how harsh the vibration would be with the TDI. I have a lathe in my basement, so cost should be minimal. I'll have to pickup a piece of delrin this week.

 

[GoremanX]

The solid bushings is what I was thinking before I saw the link even! I was wondering how harsh the vibration would be with the TDI. I have a lathe in my basement, so cost should be minimal. I'll have to pickup a piece of delrin this week.

The vibrations do transfer a bit into the cabin itself because that rod is attached to a solid point in the shifter box rather than a pivot point. But the longitudinal setup helps keep those vibrations to a minimum.

The increased precision of a solid shifter and delrin bushings is very noticeable. I had an 01A 5-speed with all-OEM components in my Audi A4 for years. When I swapped in a BHW/01E combo, I went whole hog with the JHM stuff. The difference was night and day. I didn't think there was anything wrong with the old OEM linkage, but the JHM setup really opened up my eyes.

 

[imo000]

How much is the difference berween brand new OE bushijgs vs Derlin or solid metal bushings?

 

[Uberhare]

The biggest issue with the OE bushings is cost. You have to buy the entire rod! I'm going to try the delrin route first (because I'm cheap) on my lathe. If I don't like it, then I'll search out an OE replacement.