- Feb 25, 2002
- SW Ontario
- 2003 Audi A4Q 5spd 2.0 TDI 2056VK R783, 2006 Audi A4Q 6spd 2.0 TDI, 2007 A4Q 6spd 2.0 TDI
Made a new one mounted on top off the engine mountHello, what did you end up doing with the turbo support? I finally got all the pieces together and we’re currently intalling a DQS with the 240 clutch into my 2004 Passat but the starter and the turbo support don’t like each other.
Need help with that tune let me know.Hi, we took the advice of leavin it off. Project is just about complete. It’s drivable, needs the tune. It took a long time getting all the pieces for the conversion. The list in this thread is not complete but very, very helpful I had a bunch of questions but got it figured.
I only made two screw-ups. One was getting the wrong timing kit for the AVF, as it was from an 2002 Audi and the tensioner was the old style and the other was the wrong clutch stainless braided hose.
My car is a 04 Passat wagon tdi with a toasted auto trans, got it for $700. Brought in an AVF motor (200k Kms) from UK which has the manual crank, no pilot bearing worries. Also, no balance shaft crap. the gearbox from Germany is a rebuild DQS 6 speed and hooked up to a 240 clutch.
All the other bits came from eBay, Poland and other former eastern block countrys, very reasonable prices and before COVID hit, shipping costs to Canada were reasonable. Completely insane shipping costs now.
I need to thank my friend Peter, the Mechanical genius that put the bits and pieces together into my car, I helped but most likely made more work for my buddy. also, the many members here that provided their expertise answering my very many questions, Thank you all.
Snub mount needs to be in the receptacle or engine will rock back on acceleration. The transmission mounts can bottom out if the movement is extreme enough, you'll hear lots of noise on acceleration if that happens. Not sure if the mounts being switched left/right would make a difference, but the right one has the silicone heat shield to protect it from exhaust heat.I have a couple of questions on mounts I am hoping someone can give me some guidance on...I just finished up swapping a BHW into my 01 allroad. There is fairly significant vibration at idle and then as you come into a stop.
I purchased new OEM mounts but just realized there are left and right. I had assumed they were the same until after I got the engine and noticed that one had the grey rubber protective sleeve. Would that be a cause for vibration?
I had to modify the front clip for the intercooler pipe but as you can see in the pic my snub mount is not within the space on the engine. Is that okay or could that be an issue?
You probably won't see much info on crank swaps as there are far cheaper and easier ways to get around the pilot bearing problem, Most have been addressed here. Check my user picture album for another.Hello TDI brain collective.
I am planning to do a 6-speed manual swap with a used crank from Franz ('05 BHW). I have reviewed this and other forums. I have not seen any advice on crank removal and installation.
Questions I have are:
- Any crank replacement write ups? I have done the BSM replacement so I have been in that vicinity...
- Parts to replace with installation: front seal, rear seal and flange, thrust washers?, crank bearings?, rod bearings?, conn rod bolts, balance shaft assembly bolts?, etc.
- Determining crank bearings - if the crank is in good shape, should just need stock replacements, correct? Do they need to be replaced? The block is not being bored obviously.
- Camshaft - how to check for wear? Replace at the same time?
Thanks for the cam & crank info. Those things to replace make sense, though I will stay with my geared balancer. I do agree that there are cheaper and easier ways to get around the pilot bearing issues but I do not believe they are as good as swapping crank, that is why I am planning to do this. I do not like the advice to only seat the bearing part way, I do not have a mill to make my own bearing holder, nor do I like dealing with all the conflicting clutch information - no one has consensus, so how does one decide...You probably won't see much info on crank swaps as there are far cheaper and easier ways to get around the pilot bearing problem, Most have been addressed here. Check my user picture album for another.
In any case, to swap the crank you will need at minimum all crank main and rod bolts, crank pulley bolt and front and rear crank seals. I would not re-use any type of balancer, geared or chained, they are all a liability so a delete kit would be required. I would replace all bearings as well, since they have worn to fit the crank you are removing.
Cam wear is pretty obvious. The lobes start off with a chamfer all around. As the cam wears the chamfer will begin to disappear at the lobe tips, pretty much always just the exhaust lobes. If the chamfer is gone on more than just the tip of the lobe, the wear progresses fairly quickly. In the advanced stages, the lobes will wear a hole in the lifter top, the lifter will collapse and you will hear the distinctive "bupping" noise. Inspection is easiest when the T-belt is still on, roll the engine over via the crank bolt and check all the exhaust cam lobes.
One thing to be aware of when re-using a geared balancer is the idle gear. It has a coating on it that is used to establish the backlash or clearance of the gearset. At assembly, the gear is firmly pushed against the mating gears to obtain zero clearance. In operation, the coating on the gear quickly wears off, leaving the proper clearance between the gears. The gear with the coating removed cannot be reused to set the clearance. I do not believe that the gear is available as a replacement part. I guess you could use some paper or foil of a known thickness to set the backlash, but I don't know what the clearance should be. It may be worthwhile to cut down some feeler gauge blades or shim stock and try to measure the gear tooth clearance prior to disassembly. This could then be duplicated when the gear is re-installed.Thanks for the cam & crank info. Those things to replace make sense, though I will stay with my geared balancer. I do agree that there are cheaper and easier ways to get around the pilot bearing issues but I do not believe they are as good as swapping crank, that is why I am planning to do this. I do not like the advice to only seat the bearing part way, I do not have a mill to make my own bearing holder, nor do I like dealing with all the conflicting clutch information - no one has consensus, so how does one decide...