BHW/01E 6 Speed Swap

[QuickTD]

Hello, what did you end up doing with the turbo support? I finally got all the pieces together and we’re currently intalling a DQS with the 240 clutch into my 2004 Passat but the starter and the turbo support don’t like each other.

Remove it.

 

[QuickTD]

This isn't true, after 2002. later engines have bolt patterns that have different bolting patterns.

Which engines are different? I have (luckily?) not encountered any, but it would be nice info to have.

 

[Uberhare]

I can't remember to be honest, it was so long ago now! I suspect I just ran without one. I'll be taking the car apart this winter so I can have a look then.

 

[Windex]

I left mine off. I think Uberhare did as well

 

[yahmon]

Hello, what did you end up doing with the turbo support? I finally got all the pieces together and we’re currently intalling a DQS with the 240 clutch into my 2004 Passat but the starter and the turbo support don’t like each other.

Made a new one mounted on top off the engine mount

 

[GoremanX]

I haven't had a turbo support for 3.5 years, and I'm running a bigger, heavier turbo than stock on an OEM manifold

 

[MILESB]

Hi, we took the advice of leavin it off. Project is just about complete. It’s drivable, needs the tune. It took a long time getting all the pieces for the conversion. The list in this thread is not complete but very, very helpful I had a bunch of questions but got it figured.
I only made two screw-ups. One was getting the wrong timing kit for the AVF, as it was from an 2002 Audi and the tensioner was the old style and the other was the wrong clutch stainless braided hose.
My car is a 04 Passat wagon tdi with a toasted auto trans, got it for $700. Brought in an AVF motor (200k Kms) from UK which has the manual crank, no pilot bearing worries. Also, no balance shaft crap. the gearbox from Germany is a rebuild DQS 6 speed and hooked up to a 240 clutch.
All the other bits came from eBay, Poland and other former eastern block countrys, very reasonable prices and before COVID hit, shipping costs to Canada were reasonable. Completely insane shipping costs now.
I need to thank my friend Peter, the Mechanical genius that put the bits and pieces together into my car, I helped but most likely made more work for my buddy. also, the many members here that provided their expertise answering my very many questions, Thank you all.

 

[Uberhare]

Let me know what is missing from the list & I'll update it.

 

[yahmon]

Hi, we took the advice of leavin it off. Project is just about complete. It’s drivable, needs the tune. It took a long time getting all the pieces for the conversion. The list in this thread is not complete but very, very helpful I had a bunch of questions but got it figured.
I only made two screw-ups. One was getting the wrong timing kit for the AVF, as it was from an 2002 Audi and the tensioner was the old style and the other was the wrong clutch stainless braided hose.
My car is a 04 Passat wagon tdi with a toasted auto trans, got it for $700. Brought in an AVF motor (200k Kms) from UK which has the manual crank, no pilot bearing worries. Also, no balance shaft crap. the gearbox from Germany is a rebuild DQS 6 speed and hooked up to a 240 clutch.
All the other bits came from eBay, Poland and other former eastern block countrys, very reasonable prices and before COVID hit, shipping costs to Canada were reasonable. Completely insane shipping costs now.
I need to thank my friend Peter, the Mechanical genius that put the bits and pieces together into my car, I helped but most likely made more work for my buddy. also, the many members here that provided their expertise answering my very many questions, Thank you all.

Need help with that tune let me know.

 

[Uberhare]

Go with Malone for a tune. Very smooth, gobs of torque and almost no smoke.

 

[yahmon]

Go with Malone for a tune. Very smooth, gobs of torque and almost no smoke.

And the inevitable Malone advertising campaign has started

 

[zzdiesel]

Worked for me.

 

[QuickTD]

And the inevitable Malone advertising campaign has started

Could be worse, kerma and dbw fans are much more aggressive...

 

[yahmon]

Could be worse, kerma and dbw fans are much more aggressive...

Yep it get's hilarious when they all start defending their pricey tunes that started from the same pyramid scheme.

 

[Windex]

Paid my money to Malone, on my 6spd swap, got a tune that performs exactly the way I want - turns off all the autobox warning lights and stage 2 power - take your concerns to the vendor thread.

 

[yahmon]

LMFAO got a "stealth vending" warning for offering someone help, is this forum run by 10 year olds?

 

[Uberhare]

OK - let's just get back on topic. If MILESB can tell me what is missing from the original list I will update.

 

[arjax]

I have a couple of questions on mounts I am hoping someone can give me some guidance on...I just finished up swapping a BHW into my 01 allroad. There is fairly significant vibration at idle and then as you come into a stop.

I purchased new OEM mounts but just realized there are left and right. I had assumed they were the same until after I got the engine and noticed that one had the grey rubber protective sleeve. Would that be a cause for vibration?

I had to modify the front clip for the intercooler pipe but as you can see in the pic my snub mount is not within the space on the engine. Is that okay or could that be an issue?

 

[QuickTD]

I have a couple of questions on mounts I am hoping someone can give me some guidance on...I just finished up swapping a BHW into my 01 allroad. There is fairly significant vibration at idle and then as you come into a stop.

I purchased new OEM mounts but just realized there are left and right. I had assumed they were the same until after I got the engine and noticed that one had the grey rubber protective sleeve. Would that be a cause for vibration?

I had to modify the front clip for the intercooler pipe but as you can see in the pic my snub mount is not within the space on the engine. Is that okay or could that be an issue?

Snub mount needs to be in the receptacle or engine will rock back on acceleration. The transmission mounts can bottom out if the movement is extreme enough, you'll hear lots of noise on acceleration if that happens. Not sure if the mounts being switched left/right would make a difference, but the right one has the silicone heat shield to protect it from exhaust heat.

 

[arjax]

Thanks...I will work on that snub mount. I decided this morning to swap back in the transmission mounts that originally came with the allroad (2001) and it may a significant difference. I had been running Sterns. If the old mounts made that big of a differenct, I am hoping a brand new set will help even more. When I get the new mounts, I will probably swap the engine mounts for the protective sleeve or least move the sleeve over.

 

[hipavlos]

Hello TDI brain collective.
I am planning to do a 6-speed manual swap with a used crank from Franz ('05 BHW). I have reviewed this and other forums. I have not seen any advice on crank removal and installation.
Questions I have are:

• Any crank replacement write ups? I have done the BSM replacement so I have been in that vicinity...
• Parts to replace with installation: front seal, rear seal and flange, thrust washers?, crank bearings?, rod bearings?, conn rod bolts, balance shaft assembly bolts?, etc.
• Determining crank bearings - if the crank is in good shape, should just need stock replacements, correct? Do they need to be replaced? The block is not being bored obviously.
• Camshaft - how to check for wear? Replace at the same time?

 

[QuickTD]

Hello TDI brain collective.
I am planning to do a 6-speed manual swap with a used crank from Franz ('05 BHW). I have reviewed this and other forums. I have not seen any advice on crank removal and installation.
Questions I have are:

• Any crank replacement write ups? I have done the BSM replacement so I have been in that vicinity...
• Parts to replace with installation: front seal, rear seal and flange, thrust washers?, crank bearings?, rod bearings?, conn rod bolts, balance shaft assembly bolts?, etc.
• Determining crank bearings - if the crank is in good shape, should just need stock replacements, correct? Do they need to be replaced? The block is not being bored obviously.
• Camshaft - how to check for wear? Replace at the same time?

You probably won't see much info on crank swaps as there are far cheaper and easier ways to get around the pilot bearing problem, Most have been addressed here. Check my user picture album for another.

In any case, to swap the crank you will need at minimum all crank main and rod bolts, crank pulley bolt and front and rear crank seals. I would not re-use any type of balancer, geared or chained, they are all a liability so a delete kit would be required. I would replace all bearings as well, since they have worn to fit the crank you are removing.

Cam wear is pretty obvious. The lobes start off with a chamfer all around. As the cam wears the chamfer will begin to disappear at the lobe tips, pretty much always just the exhaust lobes. If the chamfer is gone on more than just the tip of the lobe, the wear progresses fairly quickly. In the advanced stages, the lobes will wear a hole in the lifter top, the lifter will collapse and you will hear the distinctive "bupping" noise. Inspection is easiest when the T-belt is still on, roll the engine over via the crank bolt and check all the exhaust cam lobes.

 

[hipavlos]

You probably won't see much info on crank swaps as there are far cheaper and easier ways to get around the pilot bearing problem, Most have been addressed here. Check my user picture album for another.

In any case, to swap the crank you will need at minimum all crank main and rod bolts, crank pulley bolt and front and rear crank seals. I would not re-use any type of balancer, geared or chained, they are all a liability so a delete kit would be required. I would replace all bearings as well, since they have worn to fit the crank you are removing.

Cam wear is pretty obvious. The lobes start off with a chamfer all around. As the cam wears the chamfer will begin to disappear at the lobe tips, pretty much always just the exhaust lobes. If the chamfer is gone on more than just the tip of the lobe, the wear progresses fairly quickly. In the advanced stages, the lobes will wear a hole in the lifter top, the lifter will collapse and you will hear the distinctive "bupping" noise. Inspection is easiest when the T-belt is still on, roll the engine over via the crank bolt and check all the exhaust cam lobes.

Thanks for the cam & crank info. Those things to replace make sense, though I will stay with my geared balancer. I do agree that there are cheaper and easier ways to get around the pilot bearing issues but I do not believe they are as good as swapping crank, that is why I am planning to do this. I do not like the advice to only seat the bearing part way, I do not have a mill to make my own bearing holder, nor do I like dealing with all the conflicting clutch information - no one has consensus, so how does one decide...

 

[QuickTD]

Thanks for the cam & crank info. Those things to replace make sense, though I will stay with my geared balancer. I do agree that there are cheaper and easier ways to get around the pilot bearing issues but I do not believe they are as good as swapping crank, that is why I am planning to do this. I do not like the advice to only seat the bearing part way, I do not have a mill to make my own bearing holder, nor do I like dealing with all the conflicting clutch information - no one has consensus, so how does one decide...

One thing to be aware of when re-using a geared balancer is the idle gear. It has a coating on it that is used to establish the backlash or clearance of the gearset. At assembly, the gear is firmly pushed against the mating gears to obtain zero clearance. In operation, the coating on the gear quickly wears off, leaving the proper clearance between the gears. The gear with the coating removed cannot be reused to set the clearance. I do not believe that the gear is available as a replacement part. I guess you could use some paper or foil of a known thickness to set the backlash, but I don't know what the clearance should be. It may be worthwhile to cut down some feeler gauge blades or shim stock and try to measure the gear tooth clearance prior to disassembly. This could then be duplicated when the gear is re-installed.

 

[zzdiesel]

If the crank doesn't come with the gear to drive the balance shaft you will need that also. Mains torque is 120 nm plus 1/4 turn. I don't offhand know rods.

Seems to me you are looking for a problem that doesn't exist. Many swaps have successfully been done with the BHW crank. Some clutches don't even use a pilot bearing. I just did one on a Toyota, and I was surprised. No pilot bearing.

 

[QuickTD]

5 or 6spd manual crank will have a regular oil pump sprocket on it. Most longitudinal PD engines were not equipped with a BSM, just a regular ALH style oil pump. I was bored today and did some digging. Looks like the CBEA common rail uses the same geared BSM that is used as a replacement in the BHW. Parts are available for it. The crank gear is 03G105212D, about $100 and the idler is sold as a kit with the hub and thrust washer for about $125, part number 03L198488. You will probably want both. I'm not sure you would be able to remove the crank gear from the old crank successfully.

 

[Uberhare]

Interesting. I miss my B5 wagon. Wish I could find a good clean one up here, they're all rotten now.