BHW/01E 6 Speed Swap

[Uberhare]

First - thanks to all who have written info on this in previous threads.
Second - I am half way though my swap and have discovered a few things not previously mentioned.

Let's start with the REAL parts list: (Work in progress will update as I complete my swap.)
6 Speed transmission
Passenger side heat shield above axle
240mm flywheel/clutch (get new bolts if reusing used parts)
Pilot bearing 056105313C
6 speed shifter & rods, boot and knob.
Starter
Axles. (larger inner CV than 5 speed units)
5.5mm spacer plate between bellhousing and transmission 01E 103 551B if using stock 240mm DMF. 228mm can do without.
*** 16x18.8 dowel pins x 2. 01E 301 153E. No one has mentioned this before!
Clutch switches and pigtails.
Clutch pedal with longer mounting pin
Brake pedal and rubber - OR cut and modify your original one.
Clutch master cyl, slave cyl and line. Apparently one from a NA 1.8T will work fine
Longer upper starter bolt
Longer bolt + nut for passenger side lower through block
Also used a bolt + nut to relocate the starter wire support on the passenger side. There is an extra through hole up there not used.
Fresh gear oil (recommended)
New outer CV boots (recommended)

In the beginning.........We had a funny looking brake pedal, and something was missing.

In this image you can see where the master bolts in above the steering shaft. There are two grommets you will pull out. Push them through to the engine side. Bolt up the master without the pedal attached. It sticks through the firewall far enough to clip in the line after. Then put the pedal in. It's a tight squeeze, but just fits between the fuse panel and the steering shaft. Just rotate it around, it goes.


Here's how I dealt with the brake pedal, as I didn't get a donor one:

The all important 3 pedal shot:

I chose the perfect timing to do my swap. There was a vibration in the front right, which I had assumed was from a torn CV boot eating up the outer joint. WRONG:

Here you will notice 2 bolts missing. The other 4 also were well on their way out. Car was dealer service prior to my purchase.....
More updates to come....

 

[Uberhare]

Just found this Ford P/N in case Audi doesn't have any dowels in stock tomorrow: F8AZ-6A008-AA. They are m16x19 for block to head alignment! They should work as well.

 

[Uberhare]

Update: Dowels are readily available here in NA. On order, should see them tomorrow.

 

[Sprocket]

Curious about the spacer plate for the trans. Where did you find that info and or who suggested it?

 

[Uberhare]

It's right in ETKA.

 

[Sprocket]

It's right in ETKA.

Hmm, I wonder if one is needed for the 01E DQS ratio trans. I looked at ETKA originally, but I couldn't find info on it. I'm sure it's there, but I'm not finding it. Right now, I have the trans without the spacer.

 

[CharlieT]

My understanding is that it is very necessary if you have the stock 240mm DMF, as this is thicker than the SMF you are using.
I fitted my 01E DQS with a SMF, and no spacer. It works fine, but pedal position is very high. Pretty sure the spacer would help it.

 

[Uberhare]

I'll be running the stock DMF for now, as I blew the budget already. Dowel pins are on my desk. Going to have another go at it tomorrow.

Another note on the dowels - If you look in group 3 it only shows the shorter ones. Even when you go by transmission code. Only under group 103 do you get the right dowel with the spacer.

 

[Scott_DeWitt]

Curious about the spacer plate for the trans. Where did you find that info and or who suggested it?

Use of the spacer is dictated by the flywheel. Early 1.9 228mm dmf flywheels do not require a spacer, however the later 240mm flywheels do.

 

[Uberhare]

Rear main seal was just starting to leak, so I replaced it:

Installing the clutch line. This was the worst part of the install, and you'll want to do this with the trans out. ELSA tells you to remove the brake booster. The lower torx bolt is a PITA. Some have been able to bend the line slightly to get it to fit. I didn't want to force it through, so I loosed the booster and pulled it forward an inch. Un-thread the bolts almost all the way - they are pretty long. Clutch line position from underneath:

I reused all the original grommets, just poked a hole in them for the lines to go through.

New dowel pins: (old one in the pic for comparison)

Side by side comparison for size (I can actually pickup the 6 speed by myself!):

Old starter and new starter (now go sell yours to someone else!):

You will have to remove the turbo support bracket. I am looking into finding a different one that fits, or fabricating something. I also had to unbolt the a/c compressor to get the starter in. Yes - it's that big...

Fits like a glove:

They left an access hole in the driver's side mount to tighten the bolt....

 

[Uberhare]

Shifter completed:

Connect the clutch line and bleed! You will need a helper for this part. Just keep pushing fluid through until there are no more bubbles. I tied a bungee to the pedal for my helper, so he could pull it back up easily. My son is short and has troubles reaching the floor!

Remove TCM in floor - remove passenger side lower A-piller trim. There is a single screw under a cap at floor level. Remove the screw and gently pull. Then pull up the trim along the door sill. It just clips in, pull straight up. Lift up the carpet, reach inside and pull out the large plastic box. Open it and remove the TCM. Seal the box back up and put in back in the floor. If your carpet is wet - CHECK YOUR SUNROOF DRAINS!! (Mine was....) They easily disconnect where they go through the A-pillar. I'll take pictures when I fix mine.

ECU: You will have to get a chip tuner to reprogram your ECU.

Can/Gateway: Set coding to 006. Same as before but it will force the gateway to relearn installed modules.

ABS - Recode:
Login to enable coding 09555
Recode to 04255
NOW perform steering angle sensor calibration. (Failure to compelete this will cause the coding not to complete.) Login to enable Basic Settings (40168)
Perform G85 calibration in Basic Settings group 001

I am still driving around with faults - I have to reprogram the ECU first. The flashing ABS warning has got to be the most annoying light to drive with. The cluster is smart enough to realize there is NO TCM after you do the gateway coding. No more PRND321 illuminated on the dash: (Here's my Christmas Tree...)

Cruise control: It works as is, but without the clutch switch the engine redlines if you press the clutch. I tested it... You will need the clutch switch and pigtail from another car. This has to be wired to the ECM through the firewall. You can reuse the kickdown wire and repin at the ECU. More on this later when it's done.

Starter interlock: Relay position #13. Two choices here - A) Bypass it with a jumper wire from terminal 30 to 87 B) Rewire to the clutch interlock switch from a donar car....I bypassed it for now.

Good news: car drives amazing.
Bad news: clutch slips.....Grrr. At least I don't have to take down the subframe this time. (Don't ask me how i know....)

Would I do it again? ABSOLUTELY. Could you pay me to do it? ABSOLUTELY NOT.

 

[Uberhare]

BTW - this is what this car replaced

 

[eyeguy]

Good job!! I'm in the middle of rounding up all the parts needed for the 5 speed since I can't source a local wrecked donor. Thanks for posting up the pics & sharing the experience. I think I'll echo your willingness to be paid to do it after I finish mine too! Definitely something that needs to be done, but only if you want to & like a challenge!

 

[CharlieT]

Uberhare,
Curious to know how much engagement you got on the pilot bearing with the spacer installed ?
How deep did you press it into the crank ? any pics ?
thx

 

[deep_sea]

CharlieT and Uberhare, what 240mm clutch are you using? I have seen CharlieT's comment about his 228mm being noisy and wanting to change, but will the 240MM DMF for the MKIV work?

 

[Scott_DeWitt]

CharlieT and Uberhare, what 240mm clutch are you using? I have seen CharlieT's comment about his 228mm being noisy and wanting to change, but will the 240MM DMF for the MKIV work?

No the transverse clutch/flywheels won't work.

 

[vwztips]

Uberhare, what gearbox code are you using? What is your MPH at 2000 RPM in sixth?

 

[deep_sea]

No the transverse clutch/flywheels won't work.

So which ones will? I have been searching and all the ones I see are for MK IV's. Is this an EU only part? I like the idea of keeping the DMF to keep the NVH down. I have the VR60 clutch in my MK IV Jetta and it is noisy as hell. But at the same time I want one that will hold up to a mild tune. I mostly drive like an old fart, but every now and then I want to punch it and play

Scott

 

[Uberhare]

GVS Transmssion code. From a 2004 Passat TDI PD130. It turns 1950 @ 100kph in 6th. My trip today (all highway) was 5.9L/100K cruising at 110-120 kph.

I am using the stock 240mm DMF from the PD130 B5. There is a proper Valeo 240mm SMF clutch kit for this application, but it is Europe only.

Picture of pilot bearing installed:

 

[Scott_DeWitt]

So which ones will? I have been searching and all the ones I see are for MK IV's. Is this an EU only part? I like the idea of keeping the DMF to keep the NVH down. I have the VR60 clutch in my MK IV Jetta and it is noisy as hell. But at the same time I want one that will hold up to a mild tune. I mostly drive like an old fart, but every now and then I want to punch it and play

The longitudinal tdi dual mass flywheel is an EU only part. You can investigate using a 1.8t or 2.0t DMF

However I suspect that they are not robust enough for diesel use.

 

[vwztips]

GVS Transmssion code. From a 2004 Passat TDI PD130. It turns 1950 @ 100kph in 6th. My trip today (all highway) was 5.9L/100K cruising at 110-120 kph.

Thanks for the info. That is interesting. The FHN 012 5 speed I am using runs about same RPM/Speed as the GVS 6 speed (65 MPH@2000 RPM). Just curious why you went with that 6 speed? The 012 also uses the stock starter.

 

[CharlieT]

Picture of pilot bearing installed:

Thanks. It looks like you pressed it all the way back, inside the chamfer ? Did you measure to see how much input shaft actually engages it ?
When I fitted my SMF with no spacer, I placed the pilot bearing only half way in (flush with the face of the crank), and I found I only had approx 12mm of engagement.
When I fit the DMF and spacer I would only have ~6mm, which seems far too little (only about 1/3 of the bearing). By luck I have an ARL crank I was keeping for another project, which is the IDENTICAL part number to the crank for the manual AVF/AWX, so I am going to swap cranks. It doesn't have the ID chamfer, and the face of the crank is approx 10mm longer than the BHW crank.
I will take pics side by side when I swap them.
I am not sure it is 100% necessary to change the crank, but I am concerned, so I may as well.

 

[Uberhare]

Thanks for the info. That is interesting. The FHN 012 5 speed I am using runs about same RPM/Speed as the GVS 6 speed (65 MPH@2000 RPM). Just curious why you went with that 6 speed? The 012 also uses the stock starter.

I chose the 6 speed for a few reasons:

1) Known to be stronger
2) More ratios for fuel economy.
3) More ratios available for towing. I have been known to haul much more than I should. 2000kg hitch is the next mod.
4) There was one available for a reasonable price local to me.

 

[gerwazy]

So you didn't replace the pedal cluster and only added the clutch pedal to the existing setup???

 

[Uberhare]

Added. You remove the pin that goes through the brake pedal, and use the longer one from a car with clutch pedal. Takes only a few minutes.

 

[CharlieT]

Thanks. It looks like you pressed it all the way back, inside the chamfer ? Did you measure to see how much input shaft actually engages it ?
When I fitted my SMF with no spacer, I placed the pilot bearing only half way in (flush with the face of the crank), and I found I only had approx 12mm of engagement.
When I fit the DMF and spacer I would only have ~6mm, which seems far too little (only about 1/3 of the bearing). By luck I have an ARL crank I was keeping for another project, which is the IDENTICAL part number to the crank for the manual AVF/AWX, so I am going to swap cranks. It doesn't have the ID chamfer, and the face of the crank is approx 10mm longer than the BHW crank.
I will take pics side by side when I swap them.
I am not sure it is 100% necessary to change the crank, but I am concerned, so I may as well.

OK, I took some pics to compare.
First, BHW crank flange/pilot bearing. Note it is only 6mm long.

And this is how much engagement I get WITHOUT a spacer, you can see where the grease has been sitting against the seal. So only about 50% engagement.

Now a crankshaft from an ARL (038105021K), also from a manual AVF or AWX car in europe. This is the crankshaft VW says you should use for a longitudinal manual car.

Note it is 13mm long (7mm longer than the BHW crank), and it doesn't have an ID chamfer, so the pilot bearing can be placed much shallower.
So tomorrow I will fit the ARL crankshaft into my BHW, and check to see how much pilot bearing engagement I have now with a 5.5mm spacer.

 

[deep_sea]

CharlieT, so I would guess that if you run the 5 spd, or the 6 spd (w 228mm clutch and no spacer) you should be ok with the stock BHW crank. I understand you are having bad harmonics with your 228mm clutch/flywheel. If we run the DMF 240mm flywheel and space we will definetly need the European crank. Which seems like a lot of trouble unless you have the parts laying around, or are just a tinkerer. Frans kit from Europe is looking better and better.

 

[Uberhare]

FYI - Spacer is certainly needed with 240 DMF. Spoke with someone Friday who tried it. Locked up solid, interference.

Well, I need a clutch, and can't wait 10 weeks for one to arrive. Looks like it's coming apart anyways. What 228 kits work that hold 300ft-lbs?

 

[CharlieT]

Without a 5.5mm spacer between the block and the trans, it seems you can make it work, several people have.
You MAY also be able to make it work with a spacer, you just need to be REALLY careful how deep you install the pilot bearing and double check the engagement length.
My understanding is that the 012 and 01Es really do not like having the input shaft supported properly by the pilot bearing. Someone on here forgot to install the pilot and found it immediately very hard to shift, especially 1st.

The crank option is a whole lot of work, but not expensive if you do your own labor. Used ARL cranks go for $40-80 in UK + shipping.

I have not got to the bottom of why my 6sp swap is resonating so badly. I am doing some more work on it this week, and will post once I find something conclusive. I need hard facts before I post.

 

[gerwazy]

Added. You remove the pin that goes through the brake pedal, and use the longer one from a car with clutch pedal. Takes only a few minutes.

Interesting I was trying to remove the clutch pedal off a 00 Passat yesterday but the fuse box bracket was in the way... The brake pedal however looked like it was using a different pin... not sharing the same with a clutch pedal...