Beware of Milwaukee WI Goodyear shop (Port Washington Road

[TDITONY]

Just had my wife take my TDi to get aligned (I had to work) and they changed us 90 bucks and said they got it "as close as they can" stating that it couldn't be any better. They questioned if it was in an accident because there was a lot of new parts!

I replaced, both control arms, a tie rod end, and a hub assembly.

They said the only way they could make it any closer was to unbolt the sub-frame and tweak it a little.

I called Jason (JasonTDi) who did the work as well as my local shop (RiverWest automotive) and both said "that is exactly what you need to do to align these!" Called the shop back and talked to the manager who gave me a run around stating they have never had to do that to any other VW and suggested I take it to Hall VW. Yea right, Hall! Of all places in Milwaukee.

So, can anyone recommend a better shop in Milwaukee to get a REAL alignment at? If you do, could you email me directly at tony@madrabbit.ws

I'm just pissed!

Steer clear of these guys if you own a late model VW!

Tony B.
TDiTony
02 Jetta that pulls to the Left now

 

[stevekris]

Tony, please post the alignment #'s they gave you and I will help. Pulling is usually caster or something with the tires. Thanks Steve

 

[mk3]

I like working with Justin at Lake Country Alignment.

http://www.lakecountryalignment.com/About_Us.html

although it is a bit of a haul from you as it is in Oconomowoc.

I agree you should not go to Hall. There must be other good alignment shops around... but sorry I don't know them.

oh... do you need new strut bushings and bearings? It's a common wear item as you probably know. It is best to get these on before you do a big alignment job.

 

[TDITONY]

Thanks Steve!

Front left Camber: Before 1.4 actual 1.3 Caster: Before 6.4 actual 6.4
Toe: Before -.22 actual .01

On the right side the only thing that was off was Toe at -.16 which was .01 actual.

All the rest for the front (SAI, Included angel and turning angle diff) are within spec but let me know if you need them too.

Cross camber Before 1.8 Actual 1.8
Cross Caster Before -.8 Actual -.8
Cross SAI Before .6 Actual .6
Total Toe Before -.38 Actual .02

The rear was all within spec but I did nothing to it and it was never an issue prior to any work.

Looking forward to hearing what you think.

Thanks again

Tony B.

 

[stevekris]

Tony, It does not look like your alignment would effect pull in the front end. It is very close to perfect. Try moving tires around, check air pressure, brake drag. Check for play in front end but I doubt that because all the #'s are very close. Did you change struts or drive axles lately? An easy and accurate way to check alignment is with a piece of string. Start at the back wheel, pull the string tight, touch the back of the rear tire, bring string to front wheel, move toward front tire until it touches front edge of rear tire, observe distance of string away from front and rear edge of front tire. It will touch front or rear of front tire first. This will determine if you have toe in or out. It will also show if something is off in the rear alignment. It sounds hard but it's not. This is the way every race car alignment is done. No magic machines, just string and a venier. I really think it is something besides alignment Thanks Steve

 

[stevekris]

PS Which hub did you change, maybe left front?

 

[stevekris]

Tony, Can you find what the #'s should be, caster, camber, toe. Is that LF camber + 1.3? What is RF camber? Thanks Steve

 

[stevekris]

Tony, Front cambers should be close to equal. Between 0 and -1, + - .2 degrees. Can they move bottom ball joint bolts on LF. Loosen bolts and move bottom in. Thanks Steve

 

[TDITONY]

Thanks for all the great info Steve! I do recall seeing a racer with a GTI doing the exact method described above. I don't have the sheet with me today so can't get you the numbers right now but it sounds like I am ok.

Oh and YES I did replace the left front hub with a reconditioned one from Parts Place (hub off another TDi with a fresh bearing pressed into it), this is the same side that I had to replace the Tie Rod end on too as I couldn't get it off the old hub.

 

[stevekris]

Tony, You have a PM. Thanks Steve

 

[TDITONY]

Thanks Steve, I'll give you a call just as soon as I can.

 

[jasonTDI]

FWIW Tony....You did the work! I was working on the car in front of you! You were just using my tools!

For those of you getting ideas.....don't. Tony and I are good friends!

After seeing the numbers Tony I agree with steve. You have a few MM of adjustment in the ball joint.

 

[stevekris]

Jason, I was not questioning your work. I don't know you personally, but from reading your posts you know exactly what you are doing. I was trying to give Tony some insight into what would cause a pulling condition. Sorry if I offended you. Thanks Steve

 

[TDITONY]

True that Jason! I did the work and couldn't have done it without the tools and your advice. Thanks! When I grow up, I'll have a compressor like that beast of yours.

 

[jasonTDI]

Jason, I was not questioning your work. I don't know you personally, but from reading your posts you know exactly what you are doing. I was trying to give Tony some insight into what would cause a pulling condition. Sorry if I offended you. Thanks Steve

Oh, no worries! I knew what you meant!

I was just mentioning it. Tony was really into it Sat! I don't mind playing back up to friends.

 

[jasonTDI]

Amazing how easily bolts come off with the right gun and air behind it.

 

[TDITONY]

Into it was NOT the word, MoFo Pissed off at that damn car would be better stated. At least it is done. Going to change the oil and give it to my sister. Gonna miss the fun driving now that I'm going back to a stock TDi for a while. I just think I'll start riding bikes more.