Basic MKIV Headunit Replacement Q

eb2143

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Dec 26, 2005
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I am replacing my 2001 single din Monsoon receiver with a JVC unit from Crutchfield with the harness they supply. e
Following the Crutchfield instructions shouldn't be an issue as they are very straight forward.
Before I do, however, I wanted to double check that by following these instructions I will be getting the best install. The two primary areas that I've seen mentioned on other MKIV headunit installs are:
  • Is the power in the factory harness key sensed/switched in the single din units? Some installs tell you to tap into the 75x terminal or a fuse to get switched power. I *think* if I use the Crutchfield harness I will end up with a radio that works with the key in the ignition but not without a key (slight downgrade from stock)
  • I'm assuming the K-line is not an issue with the Crutchfield harness? http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/aftermarket-radio.html
 

dremd

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Non can bus cars (like your 01) have switched power in radio harness. Later cars either need a can bus power adapter, or a wire run to switched power.
 

Powder Hound

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Regardless of what the instructions say, find the K-line, isolate it and tape it off. Unless your aftermarket radio is guaranteed to talk to the ECU, there is no need for the K-line in the harness.

Wiring it incorrectly can damage the OBD-II interface. On my 2-dr, bad wiring damaged mine (previous owner faux pas) and now when connected to VCDS, it is schizophrenic and won't talk to VCDS very long before it throws a tantrum, and I have to unplug and start over. Very frustrating.
 

eb2143

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Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Location
Rhode Island
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Thanks everyone.
I have finished installing the JVC KD-X250BT receiver with the Crutchfield harness adapter.

Switched Power: As dremd said, there was no need to tap into the 75x terminal under the dash for switched power on the older cars. The unit powers on/off like stock (i.e. turns off when the key is pulled from the ignition), except that I cannot turn the HU on without a key (special ability of stock radio I think).
K-Line: I don't think the Crutchfield harness adapter had a pin for the K line. I have confirmed by using my VCDS cable that all is well and I'm not shorted to 12+, though I haven't extensively played around with it to confirm it isn't schizo like PH's is d/t an aftermarket radio.

This was my first radio install. In general I'm not a big fan of non-VW interior changes, so it took me awhile to come around but I'm happy I did. I now have the cubby above the radio, which is very much appreciated space. The unit works flawlessly with my Android phone (a rooted CDMA HTC Desire running Cyanogenmod 7.1 :)), so that I can play Pandora and SD music and make hands-free calls. The unit itself is very low-key in appearance and the blue button illumination is close in color to that of the cluster and old HU display.

A few notes on the install:
1. When removing the old radio, the radio keys are not meant to be pulled on. The radio is pulled out with a finger in the tape deck (I learned this beforehand but I could see someone making the mistake).
2. The hardest thing about the job for me is the lack of space behind the radio. I had a hard time deciding how long or short I wanted my adapter harness to be. Too short, and you are more apt to put stress on your connections because of a lack of flexible wire to bend, too long and you just have too much extra wiring hanging around. I ended up soldering together an adapter that was about 7'' in length and this worked okay for me. I would definitely solder and shrink wrap and keep things neat and strong (everything needs to be cut to the same length). Strong is good because I really had to push on the radio to force the wires to conform, even though had I cut out part of the radio cage with a Sawzall blade (with the cage still in place) to give a little extra room behind and to the side of the new HU.

My hang-ups:
I was on track for about 3 hr job time until I was finishing up. I went to trim a zip tie end that I had routed my bluetooth mic with under the dash, and in the darkness of lower dash, cut the mic wire instead! This was a super high gauge wire that was actually two wires made up of about 10 feathery strands of copper. I needed an extra set of hands to solder and repair, and an extra hour. With my POS radioshack iron and no other accessories, my repair was kind of a hack job but the mic does work for now.

For some reason after fitting the cubby above the HU, the cup holder flap is just slightly rubbing against the top of the cubby, such that if I close the cup holder flap completely, it needs to be pried open. The cup holder still flips out fine and for now I'll have to leave the trim flap slightly ajar.
 
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