Bank 1 Exhaust temp sensor. Access? 2011 sportwagen

[almus]

I have found several how-tos for getting at the bank 1 EGT sensor pre turbo. Most of them gloss over the exact way to get access to the damn thing.
>Some of the cars are deleted, so not sure that they accurately show how to get to the sensor on a virgin sportwagen
Other how-tos say to remove the axle, remove the EGR some even mention removing the DPF. Other videos go into detail
on diagnosing which sensor is bad, but skip over the actual sensor-ectomy.
Some say it is accessible with crowfoot, others need the special 27.00 socket.

Is there a definitive how-to without massive disassembly?
Can I get access from top of engine?

I ordered the sensor plus the special socket from idparts.

 

[oilhammer]

There are a total of FIVE temp sensors...

The one is the EGR cooler temp sensor, that's likely not the one you are talking about. That;s G98. Connector lives in a bracket on the compressor housing of the turbo.

EGT #1 is G235, that is in the turbocharger housing itself (in the cast iron exhaust side). It has a black connector.*

EGT #2 is G448, in the top of the DPF housing, near the #1 lambda sensor. It has an orange connector.*

EGT #3 is G495, in the top of the DPF housing, near the #1 lambda sensor. It has a brown connector.*

There is one down low, post-DPF assembly, orange connector, runs back to the connector holder with the rear lambda sensor and exhaust flap connector holder above the sound shield under the car. This is G648, EGT #4, has an orange connector.

*clips to the connector holder on the firewall, along with the connector for the #1 lambda sensor.

I suspect you are dealing with the G448 or G495, those are the ones that are in the DPF, sort of "between" the engine, and are very difficult to access. Luckily, they are not high failure items, and generally will outlast the DPF several times over.

So which specific sensor are you after, and how did you come to that conclusion?

 

[almus]

How I came to this conclusion:
CEL and blinking gp light. Hooked to vag com, readout: - "sensor 1 for exhaust temp bank 1 (g235) p0544 - 001 - circuit malfunction -...."

I believe this is the one just next to the turbo. Now in the daylight here, I went out and followed the cable down (black connector) and I believe that
I can scratch, gouge and bloody my forearm to reach the right angle piece of the sensor.... But damn if I can see it.

There are several descriptions of getting at it with the open-sided 17mm socket tool. Some remove axle, dpf, egr.
Others appear to by some miracle of contortionism, get it out from the top.

 

[oilhammer]

G235 is IN the turbo, you can look up and see it from underneath.

A six point line wrench crow's foot with an extension will sometimes crack it loose, but it is common for that one to really be seized in there. On turbocharger replacements, I've found I have about a 50-50 shot of them coming loose.

You'll get a much better angle with the DPF removed, but start with removing the low pressure EGR tube.

3/8" Drive 6-Point 17 mm Flank Drive® Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench - Snap-on Industrial (snapon.com)

Then if you can get it to crack loose, you have to contend with the angle of the sensor being hung up on the tube to the EGR pressure sensor, which does NOT move.

I'd at least do the Ohm check test at the connector itself first.

 

[almus]

I will get the new part this Friday.... Unfortunately I have been cursed with a Ford 6.0 which is presently (ie always) apart
in my shop. Two vehicles always fail at the same time.

 

[almus]

I was able to remove and replace the sender. I hope Dante's Inferno has a special place in Hell for the VW engineers who made these things so inaccessible. Makes me want to restore my mk4 wagon and give up the added luxury of the sportwagen.

I used a electronic bore-scope and the special socket to remove the sender. Putting new one back was like playing a difficult video game that also mangles and lacerates your forearms. I am pretty sure my cable routing is not original and was the most unsatisfying part of the job.
A bore scope with video monitor is a godsend in doing stuff like this....also helps when you drop a tool/nut/washer/bolt into some nether region.