Haven't gotten that far with the swap kinda waiting for my current dd car to sell and then drop a motor in my mr2 while in the back building the tdi. but I pulled the engine and tranny out of the 03 tore out interior and some other odds n ends .
Pressure washed the engine
Have been doing some research and found out injector plugs are different between 03 and 02 .
Alternator is a higher amp alternator on the manual then the auto.
Auto has 11mm injection pump and manual has 10mm pump
I'm gunna need axels because one axel is no good so trying to decide if vr6 axel swap is a good idea.
Looking at clutches think I'm going for a south bend daily quiet clutch
Looking into timing belt r placement saw on kerma tdi they sell a bolt kit with there 100k timing belt . Worndering if that's nessisary or not to replace bolts .
Looking into the kerma intake manifold for $350 think it would be a nice upgrade over stock
Also looking into sending out the injectors to be rebuillt and upgraded .
I don't wanna go crazy just want a slightly upgraded bullet proof daily
Will prolly be putting the 03 injectors up for sale . Auto alternator, and auto tranny I know it was rebuilt before my dad bought the car and blew the motor . Still waiting to bring the other jetta to my house . Need to move out the dd and doner car befor I can bring the 02 jetta home
Here's some thoughts from someone who's gone through the auto to manual swap.
My 90 amp alternator was replaced long ago with the 120 amp when the original died. Ran fine with the auto trans.
Yes, the plugs are different between '02 and '03 injectors, but the different plugs can be spliced onto the injector, if needed.
Automatic cars had the 11mm pump and manual cars came with the 10mm pump. That is true. The auto injectors, though, came with smaller nozzles than the manual cars. It was that way for emissions, I think. Manual nozzles with automatic fuel pump is a good performance upgrade for a stock car. Even if you don't swap injectors right away, you can still run with the original auto injector nozzles. The car will run just fine. It's totally up to you, whether or not to send the injectors out for refurb.
You will need to change axles, anyhow, because the axle flange on the transmission is a different size. The auto flange is larger than the manual flange.
Since my car is stock, I went with a stock setup for my clutch. I also went with a single mass flywheel instead of the stock dual mass flywheel. I gut the Sachs quiet kit from IDParts that has everything needed to install a new clutch, including the single mass flywheel.
Yes, get the bolt kit. IIRC, most, if not all, of those bolts are supposed to be single use TTY (Torque to yield) bolts that stretch slightly when properly torqued.
Some of the parts needed for the swap can come from gas cars. Clutch pedal assembly and shifter assembly are the same between gas and diesel cars. You will need to wire in both of the clutch pedal switches. One of the switches is for the cruise control, and the other one is a starter interlock switch. If it's working properly, you won't be able to start the car without pushing the clutch pedal. The starter switch has a separate mounting plate that is not always included with the clutch pedal. It can sometimes be found at a salvage yard. I've pulled a couple during some of my yard visits, so I have a couple extras.
I think that's about it for now. Hope that info helps you out a bit.
Oh, before I forget it, the transmission controller doesn't even need to be removed from the vehicle. Just disconnect it by pulling the plug out. Simply doing that removes it from the system.
